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A detailed guide to Bocas del Toro, Panama

Woman on starfish beach in Panama

The islands of Bocas

Let’s talk a bit about the geography of the area, and the characteristics of the main islands, so you can decide where to stay and which ones to visit.

Isla Colón (main island)

Here is where you will arrive whether you come by bus or plane. It is the largest and most inhabited island, so there is vibrant town life and a lot of activities from water sports such as surfing, scuba diving, and snorkeling to adventure activities like hiking, horseback riding, and ATV riding. The island is home to several stunning beaches, including Starfish Beach, Boca del Drago, Bluff Beach, and Paunch Beach. Boca del Drago, in particular, is noted as the best beach for swimming, and visitors can snorkel directly from the shore when the sea is calm​​​​.

Isla Colon welcome sign seen from a boat

Isla Bastimentos

Bastimentos is more secluded and tranquil than the main island Colón, and it’s where I stayed during my visit. It is home to the Bastimentos National Marine Park, Panama’s first marine park. The island is a haven for ecotourism enthusiasts, with protected areas, wild jungles, and mangroves covering a large portion of it. Wildlife is crazy diverse here – you can see sloths, monkeys, poison-dart frogs, caimans, owls and bats (all of which I managed to spot!) and many more species. There are only a few places to stay on the island, the rest is jungle and nature and (mostly) wild beaches.

The two main settlements are 1) the town of Old Bank, a small, laid-back community with deep Afro-Antillean cultural roots, many of its inhabitants being descendants of workers originally brought over for the banana plantations and 2) Salt Creek Village, accessible by boat, offers a gateway to explore the land-based part of the Isla Bastimentos Marine Park. 

The most famous beaches are 1) Wizard Beach, close to Old Bank, that offers a raw and natural beach experience. There are no facilities on Wizard beach. You can surf there, but the waves can be quite treacherous so it’s better to go with someone. Also, don’t leave your things on the shore because they might be gone by the time you come back from surfing.  2) Red Frog Beach, which is the closest one to Red Frog resort and Selina, so it is a popular spot for people watching and dining. Also possible to surf here, but the waves aren’t great and usually quite small. Other notable beaches include 3) Polo Beach and 4) Long Beach, the latter being a crucial site for endangered leatherback sea turtles that lay eggs from February through August​​.

Two people on Wizard beach at sunset on Isla Batimentos, Panama

Zapatilla

Isla Zapatillo comprises two small, uninhabited islands, Cayo Zapatilla Norte and Cayo Zapatilla Sur. These islands are part of the Bastimentos National Marine Park, which is a protected area aimed at preserving the region’s natural beauty and biodiversity.

The islands are renowned for their pristine, white sandy beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. The surrounding coral reefs are some of the most intact in the Caribbean, offering exceptional opportunities for snorkeling and scuba diving. This is where most snorkeling day trips are headed from the bigger island.

Woman on a beach on uninhabited island Isla Zapatilla Panama

Isla Carenero (aka: Careening Cay or Careening Key)

Isla Carenero is the smallest island, very close to Bocas Town. It’s a popular surfing destination with spots suitable for all levels, from beginners to advanced surfers. Notable surf spots include Black Rock for beginners, Old Mans for intermediate surfers, and Carenero Point for more advanced surfers. The best time for surfing is from December to April and mid-June to mid-August​​. I’ve surfed Black Rock as a beginner and while it’s a reef break, which can be pretty scary at first, seeing how shallow the water is, it’s pretty safe and easy to navigate because the waves are mellow and slow. You can take a surf class or rent a surfboard yourself at Escuela del Mar surf school, and either walk to the spot and paddle out, or ask them to take you to Black Rock (which is a ) with the boat for a small fee.

As for the culinary side, Bibi’s is the place to be. They have food, cocktails and a terrace over the water with lounge chairs and shade, in short, the perfect place to relax after a surf session.

Sunset at Isla Carenero sunset

Isla Solarte

Solarte is renowned for some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving spots in Bocas del Toro. Hospital Point, in particular, offers a rich sea life experience, with a sea wall that drops 12 to 15 meters, revealing a diverse marine ecosystem. Visitors can spot lobsters, moray eels, lionfish, trumpet fish, and various corals and sponges. The island’s east coast, covered by mangroves, serves as a nursery for young sea creatures, adding to the richness of underwater exploration opportunities​​​​.

While traditional accommodations are limited, Isla Solarte caters to those seeking eco-friendly stays. The island is home to various eco-lodges and retreats, offering a unique and sustainable way to experience the natural beauty of the area​​.

Isla Solarte is easily reachable from Bocas Town and other nearby islands by water taxi, with several docks on the island for easy access. This makes it a convenient day-trip destination for those staying in Bocas del Toro​​.

What to do

  • 1   Snorkel all day
  • 2   Rent a scooter and explore
  • 3   Seek out the starfish
  • 4   Dolphin watching tour
  • 5   Go surfing
  • 6   Look for wildlife
  • 7   Party in Bocas town

1 Snorkel all day

Snorkeling can be great, but it’s very dependent on visibility which varies a lot, and is especially bad when rain and wind hit the archipelago and whirl the sandy seabed. If you enjoy snorkeling, and are lucky to have a clear day, sign up for a specialized snorkeling tour that visits three different places in one day. Zapatilla is typically the island where these tours spend a lot of time, and it’s easy to see why, the island is beautiful with the white sand beaches and the coral is plenty around.

Woman on starfish beach in Panama

2 Rent a scooter and explore Isla Colon

Plastic bottle village | Right next to the road there’s an innovative and eco-conscious community known as the Plastic Bottle Village. It’s a place with some buildings made entirely out of plastic bottles, it even broke some Guinness records. There isn’t too much to do here, but it’s interesting enough to stop on the way for a quick photo.

Other places to explore on the island are Starfish beach and Bluff beach (see below).

Gas station on Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro, Panama

3 Seek out the starfish

You can see starfish in two ways around Bocas, either on starfish beach (supposedly), or from a boat. Starfish beach is on the western side of Isla Colon, and can be reached with a car or scooter or with a boat (most commonly with organized day tours that are very popular). When I visited there were exactly zero starfish to be seen, which wasn’t surprising at all looking at the amount of people and trash. Honestly, it was a very underwhelming experience with loud music, dirt and lots of sandflies making it hard to have a relaxing beach day in nature.

Alternatively, some organized tours offer stops at specific shallow water areas to view starfish. Thankfully these encounters are conducted responsibly, with strict rules against touching the starfish or entering the water, allowing for respectful observation and photography.

Starfish Beach on Isla Colon, Bocas del Toro, Panama
Local guide holding a starfish in the water in Panama

4 Join a dolphin watching tour

Another optional add-on for various day tours around Bocas. Spotting dolphins can be unpredictable, but in Bocas del Toro’s Dolphin Bay, sightings are pretty common. Home to bottlenose dolphins, the bay offers the chance to see these graceful creatures. During my visit, the bay was pretty crowded with other boats, and daytripping Colombians were very adamant on painfully loud music and copious amounts of booze, so the dolphins probably felt they were not invited to the party. In my opinion the dolphin watching tours are overcrowded and not respectful of nature, so I’d opt for something else (like the snorkeling trips, or seeking out starfish from the boat).

5 Go surfing 

Bocas del Toro offers a variety of surfing spots suitable for different levels, with some of the top ones being:

  1. Playa Bluff (Isla Colón): Ideal for all skill levels, Playa Bluff features a beach break with waves that vary in size. It’s accessible via taxi, bike, or boat on Isla Colón.
  2. Playa Paunch (Isla Colón): Known as one of the prime surf spots in Bocas del Toro, Playa Paunch is a reef break that can be challenging for beginners, especially with a strong swell. It’s within walking distance from Bocas Town.
  3. Black Rock (Isla Carenero): Perfect for beginners, the waves at Black Rock on Isla Carenero are gentle and ideal for longboarding. It’s a popular spot for those new to surfing or preferring a more relaxed experience.
  4. Red Frog Beach (Isla Bastimentos): While not very consistent, Red Frog Beach can offer good surf when the swell is right. It’s a beach break best early in the morning, so staying at a nearby hotel is a good idea.

Surfboards are available for rent at most of these beaches or in Bocas Town. My favorite place to rent was Escuela del Mar surf school, found on Carenero island in a little hut over the water. There are also surf camps for learning with an instructor, and local lessons can often be arranged on the beach. The surf season in Bocas del Toro peaks from December to April, with December and January being the best months for waves.

Woman walking away with a surfboard in the jungle in Bocas del Toro, Panama
Woman walking away with a surfboard on the beach in Bocas del Toro, Panama

6 Look for wildlife

Apart from the main town on Isla Colon, you are well set up for spotting wildlife all around Bocas. Isla Bastimentos is famous for the red frogs, and you can easily spot them even at your hotel (they can be seen in the morning right next to the open kitchen area at Selina;). These frogs are officially known as the Strawberry Poison-Dart Frogs (Oophaga pumilio), and they are renowned for their striking bright red color and small size. As their name suggests, Strawberry Poison-Dart Frogs possess toxins in their skin, which can be harmful if ingested. These toxins are derived from their diet, which consists mainly of ants, termites, and other small insects. The poison has been used by indigenous people in the past to coat the tips of blow darts, hence the name “poison-dart frog”.

Two poison red frogs on a pipe in Panama
Two poison red frogs on pebbles in Panama

Other animals that are pretty easy to see here include sloths (also venturing near hotels on Isla Bastimentos, so you probably just have to wait to spot them). Both two-toed and three-toed sloths can be seen here lounging in the trees, often hanging motionless and blending into the foliage. Several species of monkeys also inhabit the island, including the white-faced capuchin and the howler monkey. The former is easier to see up close, and they can be quite used to humans in some areas, while the howler monkeys are known for their loud calls (you’ll definitely recognize it), but are much harder to spot.

Howler monkey on a tree in the wild
Three-toed sloth climbing on a tree in the jungle in Panama

7 Party in Bocas Town

It’s not really my vibe, but the nightlife event of Bocas del Toro is definitely the Filthy Friday Island Boat Crawl, an intense party that hops between three bars located on three different islands, all by the water. The journey from one bar to the next is on a party boat, and often, the boat ride is as exhilarating as the bars. Held every Friday, starting at 11:30 am and winding down by 9 pm at the Aqua Lounge Bar, the event draws a large crowd. (it’s worth noting, though, that it can be quieter during the off-season, so it’s a good idea to check recent reviews). If you’re into this, entry costs start at $35 USD for general admission, which includes a shirt and shots throughout the afternoon. There’s also a VIP option for $75 (not sure what it includes).

Isla Colon welcome sign seen from a boat

How to get there

From Panama City

By Air | The quickest way is to take a domestic flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro International Airport on Isla Colón. Flights operate regularly and take about 1 hour.

By Bus and Ferry | A more economical option is to take a long-distance bus (night buses also available) from Panama City to Almirante, which takes about 10-12 hours. From Almirante, you can take a ferry to Isla Colón, the main island of Bocas del Toro.

From Boquete

By Bus and Ferry | There are no direct flights from Boquete, so the common method is to take a bus to Almirante, which takes around 4 hours. Then, take a ferry from Almirante to Bocas del Toro.

From Costa Rica

By Bus and Ferry | International buses are available from major Costa Rican cities like San José to the border at Sixaola. After crossing the border, travelers can take a bus to Almirante and then a ferry to Bocas del Toro. The whole journey can take a day, depending on border crossing times and connections.

By Air | For a faster route, direct flights from San José, Costa Rica, to Bocas del Toro are available, taking about 1 hour.

Local man driving a speedboat in Panama
Airport sign on a wall in Bocas del Toro
People walking to the small Air Panama plane on the Bocas del Toro airport

How much time you need

At least 3 days, but you wouldn’t be bored in a week. It’s quite far from Panama City, so it’s better to make the torturous bus trip or the expensive flight worth it!

How to get around

Water Taxis | In Bocas Del Toro, water taxis are the lifelines connecting all ports and islands. They offer an affordable way to hop between islands, with short rides starting as low as $1. For example, traveling from Bocas Town to Bastimentos costs around $3, and a trip to Almirante, the gateway for buses to Boquete or Panama City, is about $6.

Cycling | Bicycling is a popular and convenient way to get around Bocas. The island’s flat terrain makes cycling effortless. You can rent bikes for approximately $1 to $2 per hour or $5 to $8 for a full day. If you’re staying in Bocas Town, it’s simple to either walk or bike to your destinations.

Mopeds | For those looking to venture further out on Isla Colon, renting a moped in Bocas Town is a great option. Mopeds are available for around $40 per day, allowing for an expanded exploration of the island.

Where to stay

Isla Colon

Hotel Bocas del Toro | Known for its super friendly and trained staff who greet guests by name, this hotel offers comfortable rooms with great views. It’s quiet yet conveniently located, with the best coffee and a great restaurant on-site​​.

Hotel Lula’s Bed and Breakfast | This bed and breakfast is praised for its great location, rooms, and hosts. It offers a cozy and welcoming atmosphere for guests​​.

Skully’s House | This hostel is ideal for a more budget-friendly stay. It offers private rooms overlooking the water with a nice patio and swing, providing a tranquil experience for guests​

Bastimentos

Selina | Not the best or the most unkempt accommodation on the island (especially the dorm rooms on the ground floor that are ugly and super damp), and it’s quite overpriced, but they have a coworking space, so if you need to work, this is the place to be.

Red Frog Beach Resort | It is more akin to a large resort than an exclusive island retreat, featuring a vast property dotted with a variety of bungalows and villas available at varying price points. Many of these accommodations are owned by individuals from the US and are rented out to visitors by Red Frog when the owners are not in Panama. The resort’s highlight is its private beach and pool area, offering a stunning and idyllic spot for ultimate relaxation.

La Loma jungle lodge | The secluded luxury place, with a top notch restaurant. It’s amazing, but better be for the price!

Best things to do in Panama City

View of Panama City from a rooftop bar

Overview

Panama City, a vibrant metropolis at the crossroads of two continents, boasts a history as rich and diverse as its landscape. Founded in 1519 by Spanish conquistador Pedro Arias Dávila, it quickly became a pivotal point for expeditions and a gateway for gold and silver bound for Spain. The original city was destroyed in 1671 by the infamous pirate Henry Morgan, leading to the establishment of the new city in its current location. Today Panama is most famous for the Panama Canal, a huge feat in human engineering that enables international trade as we know it. A fun fact about Panama City is its unique setting as the only capital in the world that has a rainforest within its city limits. This blend of urban and natural elements makes Panama City a good choice for the start of your trip in Central- or South-America.

View of Panama City from a plane

What to do

  • 1   Visit the Panama Canal
  • 2    Get lost in casco viejo
  • 3    Check out the Mercado de Mariscos
  • 4    Join a walking tour
  • 5    Drink coffee
  • 6    Enjoy the sunset from a rooftop bar
  • 7    Have one of your best meals in Central America
  • 8    Visit the San Blas islands
  • 9    Visit Valle de Anton
  • 10   Visit the Pearl Islands
  • 11   Go shopping

1 Visit the Panama Canal

The Panama Canal, a marvel of modern engineering, stands as one of the most significant achievements in the history of transportation and global trade. Famous for connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, it dramatically shortens the maritime journey, facilitating the passage of ships between these two vast bodies of water. The canal has recently undergone significant expansions, including the addition of new locks, allowing even larger vessels to transit. On average, it sees the passage of about 35-40 ships per day, underscoring its importance as a critical global shipping route. Visiting the Panama Canal offers a unique glimpse into a pivotal intersection of international commerce and engineering ingenuity. It took an enormous effort and a decade to create the canal which opened in 1914, relying on the labor of over 40,000 people (5,000 of whom died in the process). 

Smiling woman at Panama Canal
View of the Panama Canal with a ship waiting to pass

To visit the Panama Canal, you can easily reach it from Panama City. The Miraflores Locks, one of the most popular viewing spots, is just a short drive from the city center. The canal operates 24/7, but the visitor center at Miraflores typically opens from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Admission is about 20$ for adults, this includes the exhibitions at the visitor center and seeing the ships pass through from the observation deck. An additional 10$ is charged for the IMAX Panama Canal movie.

Tip | Try to arrive early to avoid crowds and see ships passing through the locks, but make sure to check for any changes in opening hours or ticket prices on the official website before your visit.

2 Get lost in casco viejo

Casco Viejo (“Old quarter”) is the historic district of Panama City and one of the oldest cities in the Americas. It used to be a really run down area, but Panama City started  investing a lot in it since 1997, when it was declared a Unesco site. This meant basically prepping the district for tourist visits, which of course had positive and negative sides. On the positive note, Casco Viejo is beautiful – they really managed to renovate while keeping the original Spanish-colonial style and highlighting beautiful and unique architecture – great for photo shoots! It is also very safe, you can see the police patrolling the streets which can be a welcome thing in a Central American metropolis. There are a lot of things to occupy and entertain you –  boutique hotels, stylish cafes and restaurants, and beautiful little shops. Also churches, a coastal fortification walk and cute little squares to admire. On the other hand it’s quite obvious to see that this is not where or how locals live. For that you’d need to venture out of this small area (or even seek encounters with locals outside the capital). Casco Viejo is a great place to eat well, watch the sunset from one of the many rooftop bars, and have excellent Panamanian coffee.

Panama city view
Panama city street view

3 Check out the Mercado de Mariscos

Mercado de Mariscos (the fish market) is very close to Casco Viejo and worth a short walk to get to.To be very honest, the place is pretty touristy, the sellers are vigorously trying to get your attention (just like in any market), and the ceviche is probably not the best you’ve ever tried. Anyway I think it’s worth a try, also because you can combine the market very well with a walk on Cinta Costera, the 8km long waterfront promenade for pedestrians and cyclists, and look back and forth to marvel at the difference between the old quarter and new Panama full of shiny skyscrapers.

Mercado de Mariscos Panama City
People eating ceviche at Mercado de Mariscos Panama City

4 Join a walking tour

I love free walking tours and have never had a bad experience with them – you can relax and rely on the expert knowledge of a local while walking around (also often discovering hidden gems), taking great pictures and having access to the views and experiences of someone who speaks your language. It’s usually a great experience and I always make sure to tip a fair amount. You can do similar tours in Panama City through your hostel or through Guruwalk, who offer a variety of themes and languages.

5 Drink coffee

If you have time, try to go to Boquete, the heart of coffee production in Panama (also referred to as the Napa Valley of coffee), where you can learn a lot about the coffee production process and see where the coffee beans come from. However, regardless of whether you can make it to Boquete, Panama City is the perfect place to taste the fruit of said production, and sample all the best brews, including special ones that are only available in Panama. I tried the famous Geisha coffee (read more about it below), and thought it tasted great, although to be honest not much different from other well prepared local bean varieties. However, some people are very excited about it and swear it’s the best coffee they’ve ever tasted (maybe they have a more refined taste in coffee than me). Taste it one while in Panama along with other local coffee, and you’ll know!

Coffee plant on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia
Coffee beans drying on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia
Coffee bean machine on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia
Coffee plant on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia
Person's hand picking a coffee plant on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia
Coffee bags on El Ocaso coffee farm in Salento, Colombia

Geisha coffee

One of the unique local coffees is the famous Geisha coffee, which is renowned for its exceptional qualities and unique flavor profile, making it one of the world’s most sought-after and expensive coffees. Here’s why it’s special:

  • Unique Flavor: Geisha coffee is celebrated for its aromatic, almost tea-like flavor. This Arabica hybrid subspecies, cultivated in the Panamanian highlands at altitudes over 5,000 feet, is difficult to grow, adding to its exclusivity. It exhibits a light body accompanied by highly aromatic flavor notes like jasmine, tart fruits, papaya, mango, berries, and oranges, with a bergamot aftertaste​​​​.
  • Historical and Geographical Significance: The beans were initially isolated in Gesha, Ethiopia, in 1936 and later exported to Central America. The farm Hacienda la Esmeralda in Panama played a pivotal role in popularizing Geisha coffee by growing it at higher altitudes, which enhanced its elegant and unique flavor​​.
  • Impact of Terroir: Like wine, Geisha coffee’s flavor is profoundly influenced by its terroir – the natural environment where it’s grown. Factors such as the coffee’s growing location, processing, roasting, and even the season of picking can impact the beans’ final flavor​​.

6 Enjoy the sunset from a rooftop bar

There are some serious views from Panama city rooftops, and good cocktails to be had. Here are my top 4 suggestions for a relaxing evening in Casco Viejo:

Selina Rooftop (6th floor) | Located on the 6th floor of the Selina Casco Viejo hostel, this rooftop terrazza is vibrant and tropical-chic, complete with a rooftop pool and lots of greenery. It hosts weekly events like acoustic concerts and live DJs. Enjoy craft beers and refreshing cocktails with fantastic views over Casco Viejo and the city skyline​​.

Sama Sky Lounge (4th floor) | Situated in Casco Viejo, this rooftop bar offers stunning views of the city skyline and the sea. It’s known for its unique vibe, oriental accents, and electric atmosphere, where locals and tourists alike can enjoy live performances. It’s a perfect spot for unwinding after a day, enjoying a romantic evening, or dancing the night away​​.

CasaCasco (5th floor): Set in the heart of Casco Viejo, this venue spans 5 floors of entertainment, food, and drinks. The rooftop bar on the 5th floor, along with the 360º Terraza, provides panoramic views of the sea and Panama City skyline. The setting is stylish and luxurious, offering a wide selection of drinks and smaller bites from the three restaurants below​​.

Vista Corona (3rd floor): Situated on the 3rd floor in Casco Viejo, this vibrant, lush, and modern rooftop terrace offers great views over the Casco Viejo rooftops and the ocean. It’s a great place to enjoy crafted cocktails, Latin American bites, and dishes in a tropical setting​​.

View of Panama City from a rooftop bar

Here are some suggestions for a relaxing evening in the modern parts of the city:

Panaviera (66th floor) | Located on the 66th floor in Punta Pacifica, this is the highest rooftop bar in Central America. It offers breathtaking panoramic views over the ocean and Panama City. The menu includes a fusion of local and international cuisine, as well as a wide selection of drinks​​.

Wet Deck Bar at W Panama (15th floor) | Situated on the 15th floor in Campo Alegre, this stylish bar offers a mix of drinks and a fantastic rooftop pool with panoramic city views. It’s open to hotel guests all week and to the public on weekends, serving fruity drinks and international bites​​.

Luna Rooftop (31st floor) | Set on the 31st floor in Obarrio, this modern sky bar restaurant offers some of the best views in Panama City. The terrace is lush and stylish, providing a range of crafted cocktails, beers, wines, and tapas-style dishes, perfect for sunsets or special nights out​​.

7 Have one of your best meals in Central America

…If not the best. I’ve been to Panama City 3 times and never missed a chance to eat in Fonda Lo Que Hay. This is not a promotion, I’m just personally a massive fan. The first time I visited the place was tiny, we were very happy to have half of a square meter each at the bar. Since then they doubled in size and kept the amazing quality and atmosphere. The best thing they have is the Cassava Tostada with Tuna. Just order one when you arrive to Panama City, you will dream of it for the rest of your trip. Fonda Lo Que Hay offers popular Panamanian food at affordable prices in a casual setting. The concept is rooted in traditional ‘fondas’, which are small, economical eateries known for their no fixed menu approach. This means that the restaurant offers whatever is available, distinguishing it from typical restaurants and cafeterias​. It is also featured on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. You can either reserve, or be prepared to wait (possible with a drink in the over-air-conditioned waiting area).

Fondo lo que hay restaurant in Panama City
Fondo lo que hay restaurant food in Panama City
Fondo lo que hay restaurant in Panama City

8 Visit the San Blas islands

Visiting San Blas is a wonderful experience and can be done on a day trip, but I don’t recommend it as it will be very hectic and less fulfilling. Before deciding to go it’s important to know that the islands are an adventure destination, not luxurious at all! Tourism on the San Blas Islands is strictly controlled by the Guna, the indigenous people owning the archipelago. They only allow certain islands to be visited, only serve a few kinds of food, and do not have many luxuries or amenities like in-room electricity or hot water. Essentially you have 3 options to visit:

Day Trip to San Blas | Your journey begins at 5 AM from Panama City, with a 2.5-hour drive to the water taxi. A 30-minute boat ride later, you’ll arrive at the beach by 9:30 AM. Spend the day swimming, snorkeling, and unwinding. Enjoy an included lunch, visit another island, and start your return around 4 PM, arriving back in Panama City by 7 PM.

Overnight Stay on the Islands | After arriving via flight or drive and a boat trip to your island, you’ll check into your room. Start your morning tour soon after arrival, visiting another island for swimming or snorkeling. Post-lunch, you have time to relax, followed by an optional afternoon tour. EYou can enjoy dinner and a stunning sunset, and fall asleep to the sound of waves and wake up to another day in paradise. You can book this as a tour or accommodation for a similar experience.

Sailing Through the Islands | Depart from Panama City to the port and board a sailboat or catamaran. Spend each day gliding across the Caribbean Sea, docking at new islands for adventures like kayaking, snorkeling, beach volleyball, hiking, or participating in traditional dances in a Guna community. Enjoy fresh seafood, learn about the Guna people, gather around a beach bonfire, and sleep in a hammock. Your guide will accompany you, offering a chance to bond with them and other travelers. After four days of relaxation, you’ll return to Panama City.

If you are planning to continue to Colombia after your stay in Panama, you have an additional option, to take a boat tour instead of flying. During this tour you will also spend days in paradise on the San Blas islands, just like in the sailing trip mentioned above. Read the detailed post about it here.

Pier in San Blas islands Panama

9 Visit Valle de Anton

Only two and a half hours by bus from Panama City, you’ll find the charming town of El Valle de Anton, nestled amidst verdant hills and cascading waterfalls. Originally a modest settlement, El Valle de Anton has expanded within the confines of a crater, now brimming with numerous homes as it’s become a favored getaway for affluent Panamanians. Beyond its appeal to hiking enthusiasts, who can enjoy several trails, El Valle de Anton is also an ideal destination for families and nature lovers. It offers unique attractions like an orchid garden, a butterfly haven, and soothing hot springs. It is possible to visit Valle de Anton on a day trip, but it’s much better to stay overnight, and even spend a few days hiking and relaxing in the area. I stayed in Casa Mariposa, a hotel that is also a sloth sanctuary, which was an amazing experience – finally I got to see sloths from up close, and learned a lot about their nature and habits. Also the hosts Harry and Ursula were incredibly kind and caring.

Sloth in Valle de Anton, Panama
Plants in Valle de Anton, Panama

10 Visit the Pearl Islands

You can visit the Pearl Islands as a day tour from Panama City, but it is much more recommended to stay at least for one night, preferably more. The Pearl Islands is considered an insider’s favorite – many locals and expats regularly visit, but it’s not a big hit with international tourists (who tend to quickly leave for Bocas del Toro or the San Blas islands). It’s very easy and quick to visit, as transport is really well organized. I stayed in Isla Contadora for a few days, in a small and cozy boutique hotel. Contadora is one of the smaller islands in the archipelago, there aren’t any shops and only a few restaurants, so be prepared when you go.

View of the ocean with palm trees in the Pearl Islands, Panama

11 Go shopping

There are several options to choose from. You can do fancy overpriced shopping in beautifully presented designer spaces in Casco Viejo, you can visit a local market with local prices for  handicrafts, or you can even go to one of the massive shopping malls in Panama. Each of these options is fun in its own way.

Albrook mall | You’re most likely to encounter Albrook mall if you’re leaving Panama City by bus, because it’s directly next to the bus station. Navigating from one end to the other takes about an hour. Spread over two levels, it houses a cinema and an expansive food court dominated by fast food options and a full-sized carousel at its center. The shopping variety is extensive and generally pretty affordable. While international brands like Casio, Adidas, Converse, etc. are present, the more interesting ones are the local Panamanian shops, and just the overall atmosphere in general. It’s not worth coming here just for the mall, but if you’re headed to the bus station, make sure to stop by!

Santa Ana market | Going from Casco Viejo towards Avenida Central, you’ll arrive in Santa Ana. Adjacent to the church, there’s a quaint covered market. This is a great spot for authentic local handicrafts, which are offered at more reasonable prices than the upscale tourist shops in the Old City.

Panama hat | Shopping for the iconic Panama hat is also possible of course. The experience will be very different if you’re looking to buy a cheap hat as a souvenir or if you’re looking for the real deal – a good quality handcrafted hat. If you’re keen on the latter, look for Victor’s Panama Hats in Casco Viejo, and read a bit online about how to spot quality.

Fun fact –  the Panama hat that was worn (and made famous) by US President Roosevelt at the opening of the Panama Canal, is originally from Ecuador,  the only place in the world that has a long lasting weaving tradition. Despite their name, Panama hats have never been made in Panama. The construction workers building the Panama canal used Ecuadorian Hats as protection from the harsh sun. Ecuadorians themselves call their hats “sombreros de paja toquilla”, or “hats of toquilla straw” (or simply “Toquilla”), but historically, throughout Central and South America, people also referred to Panama hats as “Jipijapa” or “Montecristi” hats.

Woman looking at souvenirs in an outdoor market in Panama City
Local seller woman with her ware in a food market in Panama City

How much time you need

I spent about five days total in Panama City and have been several times (due to flights). I always try to stay at least one night, to be able to walk around a bit and eat at some of my favorite places. I like Panama City, I think it’s one of the more enjoyable bigger cities in Central America and there’s plenty to occupy you for 2-3 days for sure!

How to get around

Panama City boasts a comprehensive public transportation network, including buses and a metro system. To utilize these services, you first need to purchase a rechargeable card for $3 at any subway station. You can then load it with the amount needed for your planned journeys (the minimum top-up is $1). Metro rides cost $0.35 each, while bus fares are $0.25 per trip. An exception to this system are the older, often crowded ‘chicken buses,’ which accept cash payments. Uber is a convenient alternative, particularly for airport transfers, as it is significantly cheaper than traditional taxis. For local cabs, it’s advisable to agree on the fare beforehand. 

Panama to Colombia by boat – best trip with San Blas Adventures

Tupile island from a distance in San Blas, Panama

Crossing between Panama and Colombia

The journey between Panama and Colombia is not a straightforward transit – there is no road connection between the two, only the “Darien Gap” which essentially means hostile, uninhabited jungle and is fascinating to learn about.

The Darien Gap

The Darien Gap seen from a Guna Yala island, Panama

The Darien Gap is a dense, nearly impenetrable rainforest located in the border region between Panama and Colombia. It stretches for roughly 100 miles and is considered one of the most challenging and dangerous regions for travelers to navigate. Due to the rugged terrain, harsh weather conditions, and the presence of armed groups and drug traffickers, there are no roads connecting Central and South America through this region. Even though it is extremely dangerous to attempt to cross this jungle by foot, there are sadly always many desperate people who try, and many who fail and pay with their lives. The trek across the Darién Gap is 97 kilometers long and can take more than a week to complete. Migrants have no choice but to travel on foot. This is the only break in the Pan-American highway which stretches for some 30,000 kilometers, from Argentina to Alaska. As a result, travelers who wish to go between the two continents must either fly or take a boat around the Darien Gap. 

Boat trip options

Of course, the quickest and easiest way is to fly from Panama City directly to Colombia (there are direct flights to many bigger cities) – this usually costs around 250$. The speed boat trip is 500$, and the sailboat crossing is somewhere between 450$ and 750$.

This is a detailed overview of the crossing with San Blas Adventures, the company that offers a 3 night, 4 day tour between Carti, Panama and Capurgana, Colombia through the San Blas Islands. 4 days seem like a long time for this crossing, but this is because it’s not only a means of transport but an adventure and exploration of the pristine islands and their indigenous inhabitants. Most of the time is spent on the islands (either snorkeling and admiring their natural beauty, or meeting the communities), with less amount of time – max 3 hours daily – spent on the boat. Accommodation is also on the islands, guests never sleep on the boat, which is a big difference between the sailboat option and this tour.

The San Blas (or Guna Yala) islands and their inhabitants

The San Blas Islands are a stunning archipelago of more than 350 islands and home to the indigenous Guna people, who have lived on the islands for centuries and have managed to preserve their traditional way of life. Today they live in three politically autonomous comarcas or autonomous reservations in Panama, and in a few small villages in Colombia. 

We have heard many interesting details about the Guna, some of which I share here, but which I cannot exactly verify with more accurate sources than “our Guna host said so”. But they are very interesting so here they are:

  • Guna families are matrilinear and matrilocal, that the groom moving to become part of the bride’s family (they also take the last name of the bride).
  • Their leaders are called Sailas (pronounced “sigh-lah”), they can be men or women, but currently all Sailas are male. We met one of them on our community visit which was a nice surprise.
  • The Guna answer to the laws of their community (one of the 49), the Guna laws (governed by the Guna general congress which is led by 3 great Sailas) and those of Panama, in that order.
  • The Guna have a ritual of painting young girls’ bodies black when they become fertile. This is part of a celebration of entering adulthood, and also a way to signal to the community that the girl is “of age” and ready to start looking for a husband soon.

The experience by day

  • Day 1   Start of the trip
  • Day 2   Pelican + Tupile
  • Day 3   Caledonia island
  • Day 4   Arriving to Colombia

Day 1

Ready for the adventure, we start with a 2 hour jeep ride to the charming port town (village?) of Carti, where, at the sight of the general conditions, everyone is busy checking if their bags are wrapped up in enough layers of black garbage bags. Without any organized instructions we file into the speedboats and start heading out to the first island (not the catamaran, as I thought :D). It is a relatively short ride, but surprising, as it is the first taste of what is to come in the next three days. I quickly learn that the left-hand side of the boat and the last two rows are NOT the place to be, but also learn later that any attempt to secure the “better seats” is pretty much futile, as we always randomly file into the boats clutching our little personal garbage backs. It’s better just to embrace the conditions anyway. A little bit of water is refreshing, and a lot of water can be handled by the clever use of our snorkel masks.

Group waiting for a boat in Carti, Panama
People loading bananas onto a small boat in Carti harbor, Panama
Cars and boats in Carti, Panama

The first island is a shock though – straight from a postcard. There are always two islands a day the tour stops at, the first one is for “day activities”, the second one is where we sleep. The island is beautiful, the snorkeling superb with great visibility, and the food is great. We spend a few hours here snorkeling, relaxing and having lunch (fresh fish, coconut rice and salad).

Boat on a beach in San Blas islands Panama
Pier in San Blas islands Panama
Guna woman on a beach in San Blas islands Panama
Guna man on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Our first night is spent on another uninhabited island which is very small, and feels very cozy. The accommodation is always a mix of a few beds, and hammocks for the rest. I tried both during the 3 nights and found the hammocks surprisingly comfortable (I’ve never slept in one overnight before – the trick is to position yourself a little sideways if you want to avoid your knees hurting). Someone from the group celebrated their birthday, so we even got some cake and rum punch as a nice surprise!

Sunset on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Day 2 

The second day we stopped at a bigger island for the day, with volleyball nets and views of the Darien. It was time for us to properly meet the Guna community for the first time! We were going to sail over to the island of Tupile, to socialize and also stay overnight.

People playing beach volley on a San Blas island, Panama
Man looking out at the ocean on a San Blas island, Panama

I admit that I was a little nervous before going over to Tupile, being thrown in the middle of not only meeting the locals but kind of invading their privacy and staying on an island with them. It was pointless to worry, the experience was as positive and felt natural.The Guna can be pretty private, preferring to view you from a distance than socialize directly. Not so their children! They treat the tourists as welcome playmates and there aro so unbelievably many of them, the whole island quickly becomes a gigantic round of tag. I am usually very cautious about photographing and never do it without asking an adult, but here the children are begging to be photographed and love to pose! Since the village adults had no problems with it, here are two pictures that commemorate some serious posing skills 😀 

Initially, I felt a bit apprehensive about visiting Tupile, concerned about intruding on the locals’ privacy and staying on their island. However, my worries were unfounded as the experience turned out to be wonderfully positive and natural. The Guna people, known for their reserved nature, often observe from afar rather than engage directly. Their children, however, are the opposite – they eagerly treat tourists as newfound playmates. The island brims with youthful energy, transforming into a vast playground of tag. I’m usually very careful about taking photos of children, always seeking an adults’ permission first. But here, the children were the ones asking to be photographed, delighting in posing for the camera! With the village adults’ approval, here are two photos showcasing their impressive posing talents :D.

Portrait of a Guna child in San Blas, Panama
Portrait of a Guna child in San Blas, Panama

Day 3

On our third day, we balanced our time between relaxing at the beach and engaging with the Guna community. This evening was special as we stayed overnight on our island, celebrating our last night of the journey. The sea was rougher, adding excitement to our boat ride, with some passengers even putting on goggles due to the drenching waves! Upon arrival, we were welcomed with delicious fresh coconuts. 

During free time, I went snorkeling and was thrilled to spot a seahorse, a famously elusive creature. I’ve never seen one before up close, since they are so hard to find. I wished for scuba gear as I had to come up for air, losing sight of the seahorse.

Tupile island from a distance in San Blas, Panama

The highlight of the day was a surprise activity: rowing traditional carved wooden canoes to a neighboring island to meet more Guna people. I have to say it was super hard to row and navigate in the carved wooden canoe, much harder than handling a modern kayak. On the island, we were warmly greeted by the village elder, who was able to share fascinating stories and insights about the islands in Spanish, a fortunate opportunity for us. The evening concluded with a delicious dinner back on our island, complete with rum, coke, and dancing to celebrate our final night.

Empty tribal canoes of the Guna people on the beach on Caledonia island, San Blas, Panama
Woman rowing in a tribal canoe of the Guna people on the beach on Caledonia island, San Blas, Panama

Day 4

Crossing the border turned out to be quite the adventure. Our journey began in Puerto Obaldia, a remote spot near the Colombian border. Here, we briefly disembarked from the ship for passport formalities before heading towards Colombia.

Over the border, our first stop was Sapzurro, where we had a refreshing sea dip and some delicious homemade coconut ice cream. However, getting the passports stamped was only possible in Capurgana, we needed to go right away. Opting to travel light, I left my backpack at a Sapzurro hotel, planning a quick return (I booked accommodation there for 3 nights). But things didn’t go as expected.

The 5 minute journey to Capurgana was almost impossible due to the rough sea. Upon arrival, a malfunctioning computer at the migration office further complicated matters, preventing us from getting our passports stamped. To make things worse, with sunset approaching and no boats operating after dark, I found myself stranded in Capurgana overnight without my belongings. Luckily I already knew a bunch of very friendly people from the trip and they helped me out and I quickly found an extra room in one of the hotels:)

The next nothing was solved, of course:D. No passport updates yet, they told us it would take a few days, and they are closed on Sundays anyway, so we’d better diligently sunbathe until then. An overarching ban on Caribbean boat travel in Colombia due to the rough seas meant no return to Sapzurro by boat. So I decided to go for a hike through the jungle back to Sapzurro (it’s not very long but a sweaty hike, better not do it with all your stuff). So this is the story of how there is a gap of 3 days between my exit stamp in Panama and my entry stamp in Colombia. Anything can happen here!

Big group of Guna children in San Blas, Panama

Food and facilities

This trip is not for everyone and I do not mean that in a pejorative way at all. Yes the islands are beautiful but they are not that unique – there are other islands in Central America that compare in beauty and can be experienced with a much higher level of comfort.

Toilet on a San Blas island, Panama

Facilities are basic. This is an adventure tour and a chance to meet indigenous people in an authentic way, therefore, the experience of guests matches that of a “normal day” in the Guna community. There are no real showers, potable tap water, western toilets, mirrors, private rooms or air conditioners, and very limited electricity and cell coverage. Bring a power bank if you want to use your phone for taking pictures and videos.

You can get (thankfully cold!) drinks on the islands, like beers, cokes (regular, not diet) and coconuts, but you have to bring and carry your own water for the trip (I would recommend 6 liters per person).

Coconuts on a table on a San Blas island, Panama
Toilet sign on a San Blas island, Panama

The food on the trip is incredible – in fact, the best food I had on my whole Panama trip (except for Fonda lo que Hay in Panama City which is out of this world, but also a gourmet restaurant). The meals are designed by a nutritionist with vegetarians, vegans and other dietary needs in mind. It is really just great – if you have complaints about the food then probably the whole trip was not meant for you.

The boats

This was actually a funny experience. When we got into our boats in the small harbor of Carti, I thought this will be a very short trip to get us to the “big boat” – I was actually searching the horizon to spot the bigger catamaran anchored farther out that will take us all the way to Colombia. I even asked our guide when we would reach the boat to which he replied, looking confused, “well, you’re on it”. Now in turn I got very confused and couldn’t believe that we would make an ocean crossing with the two small motorboats that we were on…Don’t worry, it is very possible though – partly because most of the time during the trip is spent on and near the islands and not on the open ocean, and also because the captains are very skilled and used to navigating these boats on higher waves as well. However, my advice is to be prepared – especially during the high season (Dec-Apr), waves can get rough, and actually did for us on the last day. We were lucky to reach Capurgana on time, but the group there waiting for the Colombia – Panama crossing was delayed by a few days because of the rough sea. The waves can be a little scary at first, but the experience is not so bad –  if you don’t overdo the party the night before you will probably not get seasick (just wet :P).

Boat on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Respect and sustainability

For me it was an unbelievable experience to be on these islands and I felt very grateful for the opportunity and humbled by the openness of the Guna and the proximity of the looming Darien Gap. This is a real experience with the indigenous culture, not like other “meet the locals” fake encounters which we probably all know of or experienced at one point while traveling.

Portrait of a Guna woman in San Blas, Panama
Portrait of a Guna woman in San Blas, Panama

Keep in mind that this tour is only possible because the Guna decided to generously let foreigners enter their lands and experience their culture (yes, they earn some money with hosting the trip, but don’t be confused for a second, the Guna are NOT doing this for profit – for a long time it was not allowed at all to stop on the islands overnight, or even sail private boats into their territory, and the privilege can be revoked anytime again. So please remember that if you disrespect the Guna there is a very high risk that they will not let other travelers in again). As anywhere in the world, you should ask before taking a picture of someone – sometimes they ask for some money in exchange (1-2$), sometimes they are happy to pose. The two ladies on the pictures are an example of each – one of them even went to fetch her traditional hair piece before proudly posing before her home. Even though the other lady asked for a small contribution, this did not make the encounter weird at all, and we were both happy and smiling in the end. It is accepted to take pictures of the children and they ask for it a lot (see some of the results below!), but there are other rules you should ask about in advance (e.g. You can talk to a child but not give them candy or gifts or money. You can play chase with a child but you should not lift them in the air for safety reasons).

What (and how) to pack

It is explained in detail on the company’s website how to pack and wrap your bags. Essentially you need to have 2 packs, one big bag, which is everything that you don’t need and will not use on this trip. You will not see this bag until the end of the journey, and will not be able to access it at all. The other “small bag” should contain everything you will use on the islands, which isn’t much:

  • Swimsuit, bikini or shorts
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Hat
  • Beach dress
  • 2 t-shirts and shorts
  • Flip-flops/Sandals (leave your shoes in the big bag)
  • Toiletries
  • Light sweater for the night
  • Phone or camera
  • Power bank 
  • Snacks

If you have valuable or fragile things with you that you will not use on the islands (like a laptop) and wondering where to put it – it needs to come with you in addition to the small bag! This is less because things can get stolen (the Guna don’t steal, and your travel group is also very unlikely to take any of your things on purpose), but for fear of water or other damage (if you leave these things in the boat for the journey, they can get stepped on for example). Be mindful of leaving things on the islands, you will probably never see them again!