The islands of Bocas
Let’s talk a bit about the geography of the area, and the characteristics of the main islands, so you can decide where to stay and which ones to visit.
Isla Colón (main island)
Here is where you will arrive whether you come by bus or plane. It is the largest and most inhabited island, so there is vibrant town life and a lot of activities from water sports such as surfing, scuba diving, and snorkeling to adventure activities like hiking, horseback riding, and ATV riding. The island is home to several stunning beaches, including Starfish Beach, Boca del Drago, Bluff Beach, and Paunch Beach. Boca del Drago, in particular, is noted as the best beach for swimming, and visitors can snorkel directly from the shore when the sea is calm.
Isla Bastimentos
Bastimentos is more secluded and tranquil than the main island Colón, and it’s where I stayed during my visit. It is home to the Bastimentos National Marine Park, Panama’s first marine park. The island is a haven for ecotourism enthusiasts, with protected areas, wild jungles, and mangroves covering a large portion of it. Wildlife is crazy diverse here – you can see sloths, monkeys, poison-dart frogs, caimans, owls and bats (all of which I managed to spot!) and many more species. There are only a few places to stay on the island, the rest is jungle and nature and (mostly) wild beaches.
The two main settlements are 1) the town of Old Bank, a small, laid-back community with deep Afro-Antillean cultural roots, many of its inhabitants being descendants of workers originally brought over for the banana plantations and 2) Salt Creek Village, accessible by boat, offers a gateway to explore the land-based part of the Isla Bastimentos Marine Park.
The most famous beaches are 1) Wizard Beach, close to Old Bank, that offers a raw and natural beach experience. There are no facilities on Wizard beach. You can surf there, but the waves can be quite treacherous so it’s better to go with someone. Also, don’t leave your things on the shore because they might be gone by the time you come back from surfing. 2) Red Frog Beach, which is the closest one to Red Frog resort and Selina, so it is a popular spot for people watching and dining. Also possible to surf here, but the waves aren’t great and usually quite small. Other notable beaches include 3) Polo Beach and 4) Long Beach, the latter being a crucial site for endangered leatherback sea turtles that lay eggs from February through August.
Zapatilla
Isla Zapatillo comprises two small, uninhabited islands, Cayo Zapatilla Norte and Cayo Zapatilla Sur. These islands are part of the Bastimentos National Marine Park, which is a protected area aimed at preserving the region’s natural beauty and biodiversity.
The islands are renowned for their pristine, white sandy beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. The surrounding coral reefs are some of the most intact in the Caribbean, offering exceptional opportunities for snorkeling and scuba diving. This is where most snorkeling day trips are headed from the bigger island.
Isla Carenero (aka: Careening Cay or Careening Key)
Isla Carenero is the smallest island, very close to Bocas Town. It’s a popular surfing destination with spots suitable for all levels, from beginners to advanced surfers. Notable surf spots include Black Rock for beginners, Old Mans for intermediate surfers, and Carenero Point for more advanced surfers. The best time for surfing is from December to April and mid-June to mid-August. I’ve surfed Black Rock as a beginner and while it’s a reef break, which can be pretty scary at first, seeing how shallow the water is, it’s pretty safe and easy to navigate because the waves are mellow and slow. You can take a surf class or rent a surfboard yourself at Escuela del Mar surf school, and either walk to the spot and paddle out, or ask them to take you to Black Rock (which is a ) with the boat for a small fee.
As for the culinary side, Bibi’s is the place to be. They have food, cocktails and a terrace over the water with lounge chairs and shade, in short, the perfect place to relax after a surf session.
Isla Solarte
Solarte is renowned for some of the best snorkeling and scuba diving spots in Bocas del Toro. Hospital Point, in particular, offers a rich sea life experience, with a sea wall that drops 12 to 15 meters, revealing a diverse marine ecosystem. Visitors can spot lobsters, moray eels, lionfish, trumpet fish, and various corals and sponges. The island’s east coast, covered by mangroves, serves as a nursery for young sea creatures, adding to the richness of underwater exploration opportunities.
While traditional accommodations are limited, Isla Solarte caters to those seeking eco-friendly stays. The island is home to various eco-lodges and retreats, offering a unique and sustainable way to experience the natural beauty of the area.
Isla Solarte is easily reachable from Bocas Town and other nearby islands by water taxi, with several docks on the island for easy access. This makes it a convenient day-trip destination for those staying in Bocas del Toro.
What to do
- 1 Snorkel all day
- 2 Rent a scooter and explore
- 3 Seek out the starfish
- 4 Dolphin watching tour
- 5 Go surfing
- 6 Look for wildlife
- 7 Party in Bocas town
1 Snorkel all day
Snorkeling can be great, but it’s very dependent on visibility which varies a lot, and is especially bad when rain and wind hit the archipelago and whirl the sandy seabed. If you enjoy snorkeling, and are lucky to have a clear day, sign up for a specialized snorkeling tour that visits three different places in one day. Zapatilla is typically the island where these tours spend a lot of time, and it’s easy to see why, the island is beautiful with the white sand beaches and the coral is plenty around.
2 Rent a scooter and explore Isla Colon
Plastic bottle village | Right next to the road there’s an innovative and eco-conscious community known as the Plastic Bottle Village. It’s a place with some buildings made entirely out of plastic bottles, it even broke some Guinness records. There isn’t too much to do here, but it’s interesting enough to stop on the way for a quick photo.
Other places to explore on the island are Starfish beach and Bluff beach (see below).
3 Seek out the starfish
You can see starfish in two ways around Bocas, either on starfish beach (supposedly), or from a boat. Starfish beach is on the western side of Isla Colon, and can be reached with a car or scooter or with a boat (most commonly with organized day tours that are very popular). When I visited there were exactly zero starfish to be seen, which wasn’t surprising at all looking at the amount of people and trash. Honestly, it was a very underwhelming experience with loud music, dirt and lots of sandflies making it hard to have a relaxing beach day in nature.
Alternatively, some organized tours offer stops at specific shallow water areas to view starfish. Thankfully these encounters are conducted responsibly, with strict rules against touching the starfish or entering the water, allowing for respectful observation and photography.
4 Join a dolphin watching tour
Another optional add-on for various day tours around Bocas. Spotting dolphins can be unpredictable, but in Bocas del Toro’s Dolphin Bay, sightings are pretty common. Home to bottlenose dolphins, the bay offers the chance to see these graceful creatures. During my visit, the bay was pretty crowded with other boats, and daytripping Colombians were very adamant on painfully loud music and copious amounts of booze, so the dolphins probably felt they were not invited to the party. In my opinion the dolphin watching tours are overcrowded and not respectful of nature, so I’d opt for something else (like the snorkeling trips, or seeking out starfish from the boat).
5 Go surfing
Bocas del Toro offers a variety of surfing spots suitable for different levels, with some of the top ones being:
- Playa Bluff (Isla Colón): Ideal for all skill levels, Playa Bluff features a beach break with waves that vary in size. It’s accessible via taxi, bike, or boat on Isla Colón.
- Playa Paunch (Isla Colón): Known as one of the prime surf spots in Bocas del Toro, Playa Paunch is a reef break that can be challenging for beginners, especially with a strong swell. It’s within walking distance from Bocas Town.
- Black Rock (Isla Carenero): Perfect for beginners, the waves at Black Rock on Isla Carenero are gentle and ideal for longboarding. It’s a popular spot for those new to surfing or preferring a more relaxed experience.
- Red Frog Beach (Isla Bastimentos): While not very consistent, Red Frog Beach can offer good surf when the swell is right. It’s a beach break best early in the morning, so staying at a nearby hotel is a good idea.
Surfboards are available for rent at most of these beaches or in Bocas Town. My favorite place to rent was Escuela del Mar surf school, found on Carenero island in a little hut over the water. There are also surf camps for learning with an instructor, and local lessons can often be arranged on the beach. The surf season in Bocas del Toro peaks from December to April, with December and January being the best months for waves.
6 Look for wildlife
Apart from the main town on Isla Colon, you are well set up for spotting wildlife all around Bocas. Isla Bastimentos is famous for the red frogs, and you can easily spot them even at your hotel (they can be seen in the morning right next to the open kitchen area at Selina;). These frogs are officially known as the Strawberry Poison-Dart Frogs (Oophaga pumilio), and they are renowned for their striking bright red color and small size. As their name suggests, Strawberry Poison-Dart Frogs possess toxins in their skin, which can be harmful if ingested. These toxins are derived from their diet, which consists mainly of ants, termites, and other small insects. The poison has been used by indigenous people in the past to coat the tips of blow darts, hence the name “poison-dart frog”.
Other animals that are pretty easy to see here include sloths (also venturing near hotels on Isla Bastimentos, so you probably just have to wait to spot them). Both two-toed and three-toed sloths can be seen here lounging in the trees, often hanging motionless and blending into the foliage. Several species of monkeys also inhabit the island, including the white-faced capuchin and the howler monkey. The former is easier to see up close, and they can be quite used to humans in some areas, while the howler monkeys are known for their loud calls (you’ll definitely recognize it), but are much harder to spot.
7 Party in Bocas Town
It’s not really my vibe, but the nightlife event of Bocas del Toro is definitely the Filthy Friday Island Boat Crawl, an intense party that hops between three bars located on three different islands, all by the water. The journey from one bar to the next is on a party boat, and often, the boat ride is as exhilarating as the bars. Held every Friday, starting at 11:30 am and winding down by 9 pm at the Aqua Lounge Bar, the event draws a large crowd. (it’s worth noting, though, that it can be quieter during the off-season, so it’s a good idea to check recent reviews). If you’re into this, entry costs start at $35 USD for general admission, which includes a shirt and shots throughout the afternoon. There’s also a VIP option for $75 (not sure what it includes).
How to get there
From Panama City
By Air | The quickest way is to take a domestic flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro International Airport on Isla Colón. Flights operate regularly and take about 1 hour.
By Bus and Ferry | A more economical option is to take a long-distance bus (night buses also available) from Panama City to Almirante, which takes about 10-12 hours. From Almirante, you can take a ferry to Isla Colón, the main island of Bocas del Toro.
From Boquete
By Bus and Ferry | There are no direct flights from Boquete, so the common method is to take a bus to Almirante, which takes around 4 hours. Then, take a ferry from Almirante to Bocas del Toro.
From Costa Rica
By Bus and Ferry | International buses are available from major Costa Rican cities like San José to the border at Sixaola. After crossing the border, travelers can take a bus to Almirante and then a ferry to Bocas del Toro. The whole journey can take a day, depending on border crossing times and connections.
By Air | For a faster route, direct flights from San José, Costa Rica, to Bocas del Toro are available, taking about 1 hour.
How much time you need
At least 3 days, but you wouldn’t be bored in a week. It’s quite far from Panama City, so it’s better to make the torturous bus trip or the expensive flight worth it!
How to get around
Water Taxis | In Bocas Del Toro, water taxis are the lifelines connecting all ports and islands. They offer an affordable way to hop between islands, with short rides starting as low as $1. For example, traveling from Bocas Town to Bastimentos costs around $3, and a trip to Almirante, the gateway for buses to Boquete or Panama City, is about $6.
Cycling | Bicycling is a popular and convenient way to get around Bocas. The island’s flat terrain makes cycling effortless. You can rent bikes for approximately $1 to $2 per hour or $5 to $8 for a full day. If you’re staying in Bocas Town, it’s simple to either walk or bike to your destinations.
Mopeds | For those looking to venture further out on Isla Colon, renting a moped in Bocas Town is a great option. Mopeds are available for around $40 per day, allowing for an expanded exploration of the island.
Where to stay
Isla Colon
Hotel Bocas del Toro | Known for its super friendly and trained staff who greet guests by name, this hotel offers comfortable rooms with great views. It’s quiet yet conveniently located, with the best coffee and a great restaurant on-site.
Hotel Lula’s Bed and Breakfast | This bed and breakfast is praised for its great location, rooms, and hosts. It offers a cozy and welcoming atmosphere for guests.
Skully’s House | This hostel is ideal for a more budget-friendly stay. It offers private rooms overlooking the water with a nice patio and swing, providing a tranquil experience for guests
Bastimentos
Selina | Not the best or the most unkempt accommodation on the island (especially the dorm rooms on the ground floor that are ugly and super damp), and it’s quite overpriced, but they have a coworking space, so if you need to work, this is the place to be.
Red Frog Beach Resort | It is more akin to a large resort than an exclusive island retreat, featuring a vast property dotted with a variety of bungalows and villas available at varying price points. Many of these accommodations are owned by individuals from the US and are rented out to visitors by Red Frog when the owners are not in Panama. The resort’s highlight is its private beach and pool area, offering a stunning and idyllic spot for ultimate relaxation.
La Loma jungle lodge | The secluded luxury place, with a top notch restaurant. It’s amazing, but better be for the price!