The story of Salento
Salento, established in 1842, is one of the oldest towns in the Quindío department of Colombia. Originally, it was a stopover point for mule caravans traveling between the Andean highlands and the lower lands on the main route from Popayán to Bogotá, over the Quindío Pass. The town’s establishment was influenced by Simón Bolívar, who in 1830, recognizing the route’s strategic importance, ordered its upgrade. As the coffee industry flourished, Salento grew in importance, situated amidst some of Colombia’s most fertile coffee-growing areas.
Salento’s charm is significantly enhanced by its traditional bahareque architecture, characterized by one- and two-story buildings predominantly white but with brightly painted doors and window frames. This architectural style is particularly prominent on Calle Real, Salento’s most famous street, known for its bamboo-made, rainbow-colored two-story houses. These colorful facades are not only aesthetically pleasing but also reflect the town’s cultural vibrancy and heritage.
What to do
- 1 Hike Valle de Cocora
- 2 Take a stroll down Calle Real
- 3 Make your way to el Mirador
- 4 Eat Trout
- 5 Play Tejo
- 6 Visit a Coffee Finca
- 7 Drink great coffee in town
- 8 Day Trip to Filandia
- 9 Go on a monkey tour
1 Hike Valle de Cocora
Visiting Salento invariably includes exploring the spectacular Valle de Cocora, a destination frequently depicted on Colombian postcards. It is truly unique to experience its towering wax palm trees, the tallest in the world and native to Colombia and northern Peru.
Regarding transportation, while it is possible to walk to the park’s entrance, a more efficient and fun option is to take the colorful, locally-known ‘Willys’ Jeeps (a classic vehicle dating back about 60 years) from the main square in Salento. Although there is a nominal schedule, the frequency of these jeeps increases with demand, typically departing every hour or even every 30 minutes during peak times. The journey to the valley takes approximately 20-30 minutes, and the cost for a round trip is about 8,000 COP. It’s best to start early, ideally before 9 AM, to beat the influx of visitors.
For exploring the valley, you have several options: trekking, mountain biking, or even horseback riding. Hiking is the most popular, and there’s a well-known loop trail that takes you past some of the most scenic viewpoints. If you enter the hiking trail from the point where the jeeps drop you, there are two small entrance fees to the park, one at the entrance after a blue gate (5,000 COP) and one a bit further on after the finca (10,000 COP). The entire loop is a medium difficulty hike that takes 5-6 hours (or a bit more if you take frequent stops for photos and to relax), but every step is worth it. About halfway through the hike you can even add on a little extra detour (about 30min) that leads to Acaime, a hummingbird sanctuary (entry 15,000 COP). They have bird feeders to attract hummingbirds – while this is not a rare practice in Colombia, if you haven’t yet seen a hummingbird “refugee”, it is fun to do so (if you have, it’s not different from the others). For a detailed guide about doing the hike, see this post.
2 Take a stroll down Calle Real
Strolling down Calle Real should definitely be on your agenda while visiting Salento. It’s the main artery of the town, with a charming blend of restaurants, guesthouses, artisan stores, and an array of shops offering both souvenirs and local crafts.
Calle Real has preserved its charm over time with brightly colored details, beautifully painted doors, and whitewashed walls. Early mornings (before 9am) is when the street reveals its true colors – quite literally. This is when you can spot the colorful doorways before all the shops open – and once they do, the street transforms, full of activity.
3 Make your way to el Mirador
After walking through Calle Real, continue your journey to the steep staircase at its end. These steps are more than just a colorful backdrop for photos; they lead to a rewarding viewpoint, Mirador Alto De La Cruz.
Here you get your first glimpse of the valley below, and if you go a bit further left from Alto De La Cruz, in just about a five-minute hike, you’ll arrive at Mirador de Salento. This spot offers unobstructed views of Salento’s landscape – a great setting to admire the sunset. Access to Mirador de Salento is free.
4 Eat trout
Salento and trout go hand in hand – it’s a culinary pairing you simply can’t miss. As you wander the streets, you’ll notice that nearly every restaurant showcases this local favorite, often with a menu dedicated to it. The trout here isn’t just any trout; it’s served in a variety of ways, the crowd-pleaser being Trout baked in a creamy, garlicky sauce, generously smothered with cheese. It might not be the epitome of healthy food, but the flavors are irresistible. Prices for this delightful fish dish can vary, typically ranging from around 20,000 COP for a simple grilled trout to about 40,000 COP for the saucy style goodness.
My top pick is Restaurante Donde Laurita. It’s conveniently located right at the northern corner of Plaza Bolivar. They serve up delicious trout, and their dishes also come accompanied by rice, patacones (fried plantains), and some salad. The limonada de coco is very good. If you’re looking to explore beyond, other highly recommended spots include Restaurante Andrea and Shalem. Each offers its unique take on the region’s signature dish, so your taste buds are in for a treat in Salento.
5 Play Tejo
Tejo, a game steeped in over 500 years of history and rooted in indigenous culture, is Colombia’s national sport – but it’s unlike any sport you’ve encountered before. Imagine a hybrid of darts and bowls, where the objective is to throw a heavy metal disc (the tejo) across about 20 meters, aiming for a tray of mud (cancha). The real thrill? The target has a metal ring (bocin) containing a parcel of gunpowder (mocha). Success is met with a small explosion and a satisfying bang.
What sets tejo apart is its unique ‘payment’ system. It’s not the game you pay for, but the beers you drink while playing – the game comes free with your drinks. This quirky aspect turns tejo into a distinctly Colombian experience, blending sport with leisure in a way that’s hard to find anywhere else. Increasingly popular among foreign tourists, tejo offers a fun glimpse into local culture and a chance to mingle with both locals and fellow travelers.
Los Amigos in Salento is the go-to spot for an authentic tejo experience. Here, the game is typically combined with enjoying a beer, and each player is expected to buy a bottle (around 3500 COP each) with an additional nominal fee of 1000 COP per person. It’s located just two streets north of Calle Real, on Carrera 4 between Calle 3 and 4. If you have trouble finding it, any local will likely point you in the right direction.
6 Visit a Coffee Finca
Salento, while renowned for its iconic wax palm trees, is also celebrated for its coffee farms nestled in the heart of Colombia’s coffee cultural landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage site. These farms offer more than just scenic beauty; they provide a deep dive into coffee growing and production. In a country that exports most of its coffee beans, these tours are a great opportunity to sample some of Colombia’s finest coffee right at the source. But joining a coffee farm tour is not just about savoring high-quality brews; it’s an educational journey tracing the journey of coffee beans from the plant to your cup. You’ll gain insights into the critical role of coffee in Colombia’s culture and economy, and understand the entire production process. Most tours include a tasting session where you can indulge in various coffee types and brewing methods.
El Ocaso
After a lot of research I chose to visit El Ocaso coffee farm on my trip to Salento, and chose their three-hour premium tour.
The tour kicks off with an informative presentation about coffee, followed by a walk through a section of the farm. Here, you get hands-on experience by picking coffee beans yourself. This is followed by a visit to the processing area, a staple of any coffee farm tour. The standout feature of El Ocaso’s tour is the ‘sensorial workshop’ in their coffee lab. Picture a room that feels like a chemistry classroom, where you’re engaged in various sensory exercises. These exercises are designed to sharpen your sense of smell and taste, helping you identify the true aromas and flavors of high-quality coffee. It’s an enlightening experience that leaves you with a newfound appreciation for coffee and, perhaps, a slight intolerance for anything less than great coffee.
For those seeking to delve deeper into the world of coffee, this tour is a fantastic choice. It’s not just about tasting; it’s about learning and appreciating the finer points of coffee culture.
Regarding the logistics, the standard coffee tours at El Ocaso are priced at 25,000 COP, with English tours available at multiple times throughout the day. For Spanish speakers, there are additional time slots. The premium tour, which includes the sensorial masterclass we enjoyed, is priced at 70,000 COP. With limited spots available each day, it’s wise to book this tour in advance through their website. While there is an option that includes transport from Salento, we recommend arranging your own transport for a more economical choice.
Reaching El Ocaso is straightforward – just hop on one of the ‘Willy Jeeps’ from Salento’s main square. They depart hourly, cost 3,000 COP per person, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. It’s a convenient and authentic way to start your coffee exploration.
7 Drink great coffee in town
Tucked away in Salento’s lively town center, Café Jesus Martin stands as a coffee sanctuary, steeped in a narrative as rich as the coffee it serves. The café’s namesake, Jesus Martin, is not just a revered figure in the Colombian coffee scene, but also wears multiple hats as a farmer, innovator, and café proprietor. Although his Santa Ana farm is not open to the general public, his café warmly welcomes visitors to experience the fruits of his award-winning efforts.
The café features a wide range of coffee options, their pour-over coffees are the best for appreciating the taste. The baristas here are also happy to educate people about everything from the origin of the beans to the details of their brewing techniques. As a bonus, they have great cakes and cookies (especially the chocolate cake), and the tranquil space is perfect for working.
8 Day Trip to Filandia
Filandia, a picturesque town, is a mere 30-minute drive from Salento. It shares Salento’s vibrant aesthetic, boasting houses adorned with brightly painted doorways, window frames, and roof tiles in a spectrum of rainbow hues. Yet, Filandia offers a more tranquil ambiance, making it an ideal day-trip destination for those seeking to avoid Salento’s bustling crowds.
The town is renowned for its delectable cuisine, local coffee farms, and the stunning waterfalls in its vicinity.
9 Go on a monkey tour
Near Filandia, you can take a tour to visit Barbas Bremen national park to look for howler monkeys. Do not attempt this trek without a guide, it’s very easy to get lost in the jungle and instructions on Google Maps are all wrong!
Your guide will take you through beautiful trails, while telling you about the most outstanding aspects of the region, as well as the history and habitat of howler monkeys. During the walk you will be able to connect with nature, take a bath in a waterfall and enjoy seeing howler monkeys in the wild. These monkeys are completely wild, and you will only spot them from a distance (if you’re lucky!), not interact with them directly, so the tour very much respect nature and its inhabitants. I found it super exciting to walk around looking for the monkeys who I could hear all the time on my South American trips, but never actually spotted. Until now!
How to get there
From Armenia | The most common and easiest way to get to Salento from Armenia is by bus. Armenia, being the closest major city to Salento, has frequent bus services to Salento. Buses run roughly every 30 minutes from Armenia’s main bus terminal. The journey takes about 45 minutes to an hour.
From Pereira | Regular bus services operate from Pereira to Salento. Buses depart from Pereira’s main bus terminal and the journey takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. It’s a scenic route, offering views of the coffee landscape.
From Medellin | The journey from Medellin to Salento is longer, taking about 6 to 7 hours. Buses depart from Medellin’s North Terminal (Terminal Norte). It’s also possible to take a bus to Armenia or Pereira first and then transfer to a bus heading to Salento. This option can be more comfortable as it breaks the journey into two shorter segments. An alternative is to fly with Avianca or LATAM from Medellin to either Armenia or Pereira and then catch a bus to Salento.
How to get around
Explore the Tatacoa Desert by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or walking. If you spend a night inside the Tatacoa Desert, you can opt to walk. However, we recommend renting a bike or tuk-tuk + guide to move around much faster. You can rent bikes in Villavieja or with your accommodation or book a biking tour online.
How much time you need
I recommend spending at least one night in the Tatacoa Desert. It’s quite hard to reach, so not suitable for a day-trip. You need one full day from morning to evening to enjoy all the things to do in Tatacoa. Two nights would be ideal so you can split your journey over two days and also relax a little bit.
Where to stay
Viajero Hostel (budget) | Situated in one of Salento’s first houses, which has been completely renewed, the hostel provides a blend of historic charm and modern amenities. It is conveniently located just 400 meters from the Main Square and Calle Real, offering easy access to the town’s attractions. The hostel accommodates up to 90 guests and features big gardens, a bar with mountain views, and a variety of room types from dormitories to private rooms with mountain views. There are a range of facilities such as Wi-Fi, a fully equipped kitchen, a computer area, a game zone, and weekly organized activities like dance classes, coffee courses, yoga classes, and live music.
Coffee Tree Boutique (budget) | A budget-friendly hostel with quality private rooms, located on the outskirts of Salento. It provides a balance between affordability and comfort, with lovely grounds and common areas.
Casa de las Dos Palmas (mid-range) | Located in the heart of Salento, this hotel offers a quiet environment with a mini pool and pretty gardens, suitable for all types of travelers.
La Cabaña Ecohotel (eco) | Located between Salento and the Cocora Valley, this lodge is perfect for nature lovers, offering easy access to the valley and a comfortable, homely atmosphere.
Ecohotel Piedemonte (eco) | Situated west of Salento, this country lodge is immersed in nature, offering cottages for families or couples.
Hotel Kawa Mountain Retreat (upscale) | A luxury lodge just outside of town, offering a blend of rustic charm and luxury with stunning mountain views. It’s ideal for a romantic getaway.
Glamping Lumbre (upscale) | For a unique experience, this glamping site near the Cocora Valley features dome-style accommodations with beautiful mountain views.
Hotel Terasu (upscale) | A luxury hotel on the southern edge of Salento, providing modern comforts with great mountain views.
Where to eat
Donde Laurita | Is a well-known restaurant in Salento, famous for offering traditional Colombian cuisine. It is particularly noted for its warm, inviting atmosphere and the quality of its local dishes (especially trout!)
Shalem | Stands out for its focus on health-conscious and vegetarian-friendly options. Their trout is also great, and the interior looks really cool.
Coco Bowl | Coco Bowl is your place to go if you’re craving something healthy and veggie loaded. It specializes in vegetarian and vegan dishes that are not only delicious but also visually appealing, often using tropical ingredients and flavors, and is right next to the stairs leading up to el Mirador.
Rincon de Luci | This establishment offers a cozy and intimate dining experience for a low price. Renowned for its home-style cooking, Rincon de Luci serves a range of traditional dishes, often with a personal touch.
Somevi Pizzeria | Though far from real Italian, the pizza is pretty good! The ambiance is casual and friendly, making it an ideal place for a relaxed meal with friends or family.