The story of Cartagena
Cartagena, Colombia is a city that is truly one of a kind. Located on the Caribbean coast, it boasts a warm, tropical atmosphere and a vibrant, colorful ambiance that will leave you spellbound. Everything here is colorful, from the pastel colored houses to the fruit baskets of street sellers. With its brightly painted buildings and charming street scenes, Cartagena is a feast for the senses and a true gem of South America.
Despite its growing popularity with travelers from all over the world, the city still maintains an authentic charm and a slow rhythm that is hard to resist. Cartagena has a way of getting under your skin and making you feel at home.
What to do
- 1 Explore the walled city
- 2 Take a Stroll Down Getsemani
- 3 Photograph the Palenqueras of Cartagena
- 4 Take a day trip to the islands
- 5 Taste proper colombian coffee
- 6 Eat colombian (street) food or take a food tour
- 7 Visit castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
- 8 Dance the Night Away
1 Explore the Walled City
The Walled City, also known as the Old City, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that dates back to the 16th century. It’s home to colorful colonial buildings, historic churches, and quaint cobblestone streets. There isn’t much more to do here, just spend your time strolling around the streets and soaking in the culture of the city.
2 Take a Stroll Down Getsemani
Getsemani is a vibrant neighborhood that has a more local feel than the touristy Old City. It’s home to street art, lively bars, and restaurants. It is also a much cheaper place to stay than the old city, while still being perfectly safe and enjoyable (and close to the city wall as well).
3 Photograph the Palenqueras of Cartagena
Don’t miss out on photographing the Palenqueras. These women, known for their colorful dresses and fruit baskets on their heads, tell a story of history and strength. They originate from San Basilio de Palenque, the first free African village formed by escaped African slaves, representing freedom and culture. Their traditional attire, a blend of African and Caribbean influences, and the art of balancing fruit baskets on their heads, provide a great opportunity for photography enthusiasts.
When you take their pictures, be polite and ask first. Most Palenqueras are happy to pose when you buy some fruit or give a tip. They make a living from selling fruit and posing to tourists, so yes, the photo/fruit will probably be a bit “expensive” but in my opinion it is always worth being polite and paying a small fee for a great picture you can be proud of. Please don’t photograph the women without their consent – if you prefer natural looking pictures instead of direct posing, you can take spontaneous looking photos like mine, after paying the ladies and explaining that you’ll be taking a few casual pictures after your encounter – just walk a bit back and wait for them to relax.
4 Take a day trip to the islands
Isla baru & playa blanca | The classic beach day trip from Cartagena. Isla Baru and Playa Blanca are the same (Playa Blanca is on the island), so however they advertise it, it is going to be the same place. Despite not being as luxurious as some of the other islands in the area, Playa Blanca’s lively atmosphere and azure blue water make it a favorite among locals and tourists alike. Although the beach can become very busy with tourists during the high season, it’s still a great option during the week if you’re looking for a quieter experience. Sip on a cocktail or cold beer, top up your tan, and take a dip in the ocean.
The rosario islands | The Isla Rosario is a must-visit destination for anyone traveling to Cartagena. Declared a national park in 1988, the 28 islands that make up the Isla Rosario are a paradise of clear blue waters, palm trees, and white sandy beaches. While some of the islands are privately owned, the two largest, Isla Grande and Isla del Rosario, are accessible to the public and offer a range of activities such as snorkeling and beach hopping. Once on the island, visitors can relax on pristine white sandy beaches, swim in crystal-clear waters, and explore the vibrant coral reefs, home to a diverse array of tropical sea life. With its picture-perfect scenery and proximity to the city, the Isla Rosario is a more secluded and peaceful beach experience than Playa Blanca.
The bernardo islands | Better yet, from Cartagena you can get to an even more secluded and pristine place to enjoy your beach time, the San Bernardo archipelago. Located in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea, Islas San Bernardo is a cluster of ten small coral islands that offer a true escape from the hustle and bustle of Cartagena. Although the archipelago is relatively unknown to tourists, Isla San Bernardo is quickly gaining popularity as a hidden gem of the Caribbean.
Check out the detailed guide for which islands to visit from Cartagena.
5 Taste proper colombian coffee
Colombian coffee is known for its unique characteristics and high quality, and is quite probably the best coffee in the world.
Tasting proper Colombian coffee is a must-do activity when visiting this beautiful country. While Cartagena may not have as many specialty coffee shops as other Colombian cities like Medellin, Bogota, and the Coffee Triangle, it’s still worth trying the local brew. One of the most well-known coffee chains in Colombia is Juan Valdez, which is often referred to as the Starbucks of Colombia. Despite its popularity, many locals still prefer smaller, independent coffee shops that offer a more authentic coffee experience. Whether you prefer a rich and full-bodied coffee or a bright and citrusy brew, there’s no shortage of delicious coffee to be found in Cartagena.
6 Eat colombian (street) food or take a food tour
Cartagena, a city bursting with colonial charm and vivid colors, boasts a diverse and equally colorful culinary landscape. Here’s a selection of Cartagena’s finest places to eat – I’ve personally visited all these spots and loved them!
Restaurante Celele | Celele is one of Colombia’s best restaurants serving indigenous foods. In the champeta language, the word Celele has 3 meanings: the local music, “making love” and “a person of heart, intense”. Perhaps an apt choice for one of the hottest places in town. Celele was started by two Colombian chefs after an extended investigative process, the Proyecto Caribe Lab. Proyecto Caribe Lab was born as an initiative to add value and visibility to the gastronomic culture and the biodiversity in the Caribbean coast in Colombia. The food is an innovative twist on Colombian traditional cuisine delivered in a really high quality. Deservedly, it is also on the Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Reservations are required, plan early!
Restaurante Jardin Santa Clara | Elegant restaurant in a lush courtyard in the heart of the city (with shiny black birds included) that belongs to Sofitel. It is very elegant, refined and the cooking is exquisite – they serve local staples in a surprising rendition, like this filled crab on pebbles. Perfect for a romantic dinner or special occasions.
La Cevicheria | A seafood lover’s paradise. Try the shrimp Ceviche and their coconut lemonade.
La Mulata | With this classic Caribbean fair you can’t go wrong. Simple yet delicious and offers what you’d expect: fish with coconut rice and a delicious coconut lemonade.
Cafe Epoca | Epoca is more than a typical cafe; it blends the essence of Colombian and international coffee varieties in an ambiance reminiscent of a charming journey to the past. Their signature blend is really good, drink it for breakfast or any time of day!
7 Visit castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
The Castillo de San Felipe, or San Felipe Castle, is a stunning 16th-century fortification in Cartagena, Colombia, built in 1657 by African slaves. It stands as a significant historical site, symbolizing the city’s intertwined history of slavery and colonialism. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its crucial role in defending the city against pirates and rivals, the castle offers an insightful glimpse into Cartagena’s past. Taking a walking tour is highly recommended to fully understand its rich history.
Strategically located just across the bridge from Getsemani, the castle is a mere 10-minute walk from the Walled City’s clock tower, easily found here on Google Maps. While the castle closes at 5 p.m., making it a popular yet alternative spot for sunset, it provides impressive views of Cartagena. Entry fees are 30,000 COP for adults and 15,000 COP for children, with tickets available online or at the castle itself. Despite its somber history, San Felipe Castle remains a much-visited attraction, offering a unique perspective on Cartagena’s heritage.
8 Dance the Night Away
Cartagena has a lively nightlife scene, with plenty of bars, clubs, and live music venues. As the sun sets, the streets of the old town, with its beautiful colonial architecture, come alive with the rhythms of salsa, reggaeton, and champeta. Cafes and bars in the Getsemani neighborhood offer the perfect spots to enjoy a cocktail or the local favorite, Aguardiente. As the night deepens, head to one of the many clubs or bars where live bands set the tempo for an energetic dance scene. For a truly local experience, join a Chiva bus, a colorful, open-air party bus that tours the city with music, dancing, and a festive atmosphere. Then you can sample some of the city’s street food like arepas and empanadas as a late-night snack.
How to get there
Cartagena is pretty far from Colombia’s other major cities, but there are many ways to get here.
By Bus | Cartagena sits in Colombia’s north, while cities like Bogota and Medellin are in the south. Bus journeys are long – expect 22-24 hours from Bogota and around 13 hours from Medellin. Despite the duration, buses are a budget-friendly choice, costing between 30-50 USD. They’re also eco-friendlier, making them a great sustainable travel option.
By Plane | For time-conscious travelers, flying is the best bet. Flights to Cartagena’s Rafael Nunez Airport from Bogota or Medellin take 1-1.5 hours and range from 50-100 USD. The airport also welcomes many international flights, including from the United States with American Airlines.
How to get around
In the city | Cartagena is compact, with its main attractions (inside and just beyond the walled city) easily accessible by walking. For trips beyond the city center, public buses are available. However, be careful when venturing beyond the primary tourist spots, as these areas have a lower police presence.
From the Airport | Rafael Nunez Airport (CTG) handles both international and domestic flights and is located in a residential area of the city. You can take a fixed-price taxi to various zones, with a typical fare to Getsemani’s historic center being around 20,000 COP. You can also use Uber for a hassle-free arrival, especially if you’re not fluent in Spanish.
From the bus station | The main terminal is about 45 minutes from the historic center (see the location on Google Maps). Taxis are available outside with fixed prices to different city zones. Confirm the fare with your driver before departing. A ride to the walled city or Getsemaní is typically around COP$30,000.
An alternative is the TransCaribe bus going to the center (route X104), costing 5000 COP. The bus is easy to navigate, but it’s advised to avoid it late in the evening.
Where to stay
Visitors to Cartagena typically have quite different travel styles – they are either long-term or tight-budget backpackers used to less comfortable budget options or two-week vacationers arriving with new, affordable flights from the US ready to splurge on comfort. Cartagena caters to all budgets and styles. The Walled City houses many upscale boutique hotels in renovated buildings, while Getsemani boasts trendy hostels and Airbnb apartments. However, it’s important to note that Cartagena’s accommodation costs are generally higher than in other parts of Colombia. Due to the increasing demand across all budget ranges, especially from December to April, it’s important to book your stay in advance.
If you’re looking for the most picturesque and convenient place to stay in Cartagena, then look no further than the walled city. You can find a range of accommodations, from upscale boutique hotels in old colonial buildings to fun and vibrant hostels like Vijaero and Masaya.
If you want to find a place to stay that’s cheap but still convenient, choose the Getsemani neighborhood, where you’ll find a bunch of great hostels (plus, it’s right next to the walled city!).
Here are a few selections for both budgets:
- Viajero Cartagena (hostel) | A favorite among solo backpackers and groups, offering good value dorms in a lively environment.
- El Barrio (hostel) | Ideal for couples seeking an affordable private double room in a quality hostel.
- Life Is Good Hostel (hostel) | Known for its excellent facilities, including a guest kitchen and rooftop with jacuzzis. Offers value dorm beds too.
- Selina (hostel) | A super popular hostel chain across South America. Selinas always look flashy and have great design, but are often very overpriced and can disappoint in other ways as well. It is definitely a place though where you can meet many travelers and where you’ll be entertained, so you can decide for yourself if Selina is your vibe. The one in Cartagena is quite nice, boasting two rooftop pools and a great (though pretty expensive) bar.
- La Passion (boutique hotel) | An enchanting retreat blending colonial charm with modern comforts, La Passion is renowned for its intimate ambiance and exceptional rooftop views.
- Hotel Casa del Arzobispado (boutique hotel) | This hotel offers a unique blend of historical elegance and luxury, highlighted by its stunning courtyard pool and impeccable service.
- Amarla Boutique Hotel (boutique hotel) | Amarla stands out with its personalized service and beautifully designed spaces, offering a tranquil oasis in the heart of Cartagena.
- Casa Pestagua (boutique hotel) | Known for its exquisite colonial architecture and luxurious amenities, Casa Pestagua provides a truly opulent experience, making it a favorite among discerning travelers.