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Slovenia: 10-day Travel Itinerary

Lake Jasna, Slovenia

Slovenia

Welcome to Slovenia, a small country that packs a big punch when it comes to natural beauty and cultural experiences. From charming old towns and majestic castles to emerald lakes and coastal views, this 10-day itinerary gives you a taste of everything Slovenia has to offer. It takes you through the capital of Ljubljana, the big hits of Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, the alpine charm of Kranjska Gora, and the Mediterranean vibe of Piran. You’ll see natural and cultural sights in equal measure, while keeping driving distances manageable. You can also do the same itinerary without a car, but you’ll probably need a few more days ot to cut some things – I’ve included tips on how to do this.

Itinerary

Ljubljana – Logar Valley – Rinka waterfall – Velika Planina – Kranj – Bled – Vintgar Gorge – Lake Bohinj – Zelenci nature reserve – Jasna lake – Kranjska Gora – Skocjan Caves – Piran.
Click on the map below to see my pins in Google Maps!

Day One: Discover Ljubljana

Your Slovenian road trip starts in the bustling capital, Ljubljana. Wander the old town’s cobbled streets to explore a variety of architectural styles that tell the city’s history. You can reach Ljubljana Castle by a forested trail or take the funicular for stunning views stretching to the Alps. Below, the expansive Tivoli Gardens offers a quiet spot for a picnic among statues and fountains. As evening approaches, the city’s cafes and restaurants come alive. Enjoy a meal at a traditional Slovenian restaurant like Julija to close the day.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Eat: Julija

Day Two: More Ljubljana Magic

Spend another day exploring Ljubljana’s highlights. The Central Market, designed by architect Jože Plečnik, is always lively. Try some local specialties and consider grabbing a few artisanal souvenirs. The Dragon Bridge, featuring its iconic dragon statues, is a must-see. For a dose of culture, check out the National Gallery or the Museum of Contemporary Art. Stay overnight in one of Ljubljana’s charming boutique hotels to rest up for the next leg of your journey.

Alternatively, if you’re tired of the city, take an organized tour to discover the tourist spots beyond the city limits. A great option is the “Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle” tour. This 6-hour day trip visits both sites, so you can see a cool cave system and some of the medieval castles near Ljubljana. The tour covers entrance fees, transportation, and audio guides for both locations. If you want to get your car earlier of course you can visit these places independently as well (however, it can be challenging by public transport).

Driving Distance: 0 km

Eat: Julija

Yellow flower

Day Three: Logar Valley & Velika Planina

Get up early, pick up your rental car and start driving towards Kranj, where you’ll spend the night. As a first stop, visit Velika Planina, where shepherd’s huts dot the landscape amid grazing cattle. You can take the cable car up the mountain where it’s a short hike to the huts. After this morning hike, continue your way to Logar Valley and Rinka waterfall (they are in the same direction and really close to each other). Both of these stops are relatively short – you can walk around a little in Logar Valley and take photos, and it’s about a 20 min easy hike to reach Rinka waterfall. After that, continue on to Kranj, and enjoy the evening there, perhaps with dinner at Das ist Walter, which serves traditional Slovenian dishes and is very highly rated.

It’s quite hard to connect all these places on a day trip with public transport. You can take the train to Kranj, and then take local buses to visit each of the attractions, but you’ll probably have to stay one night longer to fit it all in.

Driving Distance: 110 km,  3h

Stay: Hostel Cukrarna (budget), Hotel Aktum (midrange)

Day Four: Visiting Lake Bled

Today’s highlight is the picturesque Lake Bled. After driving to Bled (or taking the bus from Kranj), go straight to the lake and either walk around the shore to admire the view or start right away with a morning pletna boat ride to the Church of the Assumption (on a little island in the middle of the lake), and ring the wishing bell. Alternatively, you can hire a paddle boat yourself for 20€ an hour to take in the views from the lake. If you’re up for some sports, hike to Mala Osojnica for breathtaking views (go for the sunrise if you dare, it’s beautiful). In the evening, catch the sunset at Bled Castle. Stay overnight in Bled for the next 2 days, perhaps at the delightful Vila Bled.

If you have less time, instead of arriving from Kranj, you can also go to Bled directly from Ljubljana, which is pretty easy even with public transport. There are many local buses connecting the two cities. Go to Ljubljana Bus Station where you can buy a ticket from the kiosk. There are buses running every 30 minutes from 8:30 AM to 9 PM every day, and it should be about 3€ 1 hour 15 minutes to get there. The bus will drop you off at Bled Bus Station.

Driving Distance: 50 km, 45 min

Stay: Vila Bled (upscale)

Eat: Kavarna Park (try the Bled cake!)

Day Five: Vintgar Gorge & Lake Bohinj

Vintgar is Slovenia’s most spectacular gorge, worthy of a half-day trip from Lake Bled. Start the day here, following boardwalks beside flowing rapids. After lunch, visit Lake Bohinj, a serene alternative to Bled. I think those two are enough activities for the day, but if you lack more movement you can also hike to Savica Waterfall. Spend another night in Bled, enjoying local dishes at Gostilna Pri Planincu.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Vila Bled (upscale)

Day Six: Nature Escapes in Zelenci & Jasna Lake

Depart Bled and head to the stunning Zelenci Nature Reserve with its vibrant springs and diverse wildlife. Zelenci looks out of this world with its neon turquoise water, but it’s probably much smaller than you imagine (the whole nature “reserve” is like a 5 minute walk in total) – regardless, absolutely worth a visit. Then, visit Lake Jasna for lunch with a view at Jasna Chalet Resort. Lake Jasna is an equally stunning spot, surrounded by mountains. Stay in Kranjska Gora, a peaceful alpine town. Try local flavors at Gostilna & pizzerija Bor or explore other local eateries.

Driving Distance: 50 km, 1 h

Stay: Traveller Bunker (budget), Ritz Carlton (upscale)

Day Seven: Hiking in Kranjska Gora

Spend the day hiking in the stunning surroundings of Kranjska Gora. There are numerous trails to choose from, such as those leading through the Triglav National Park or even up to Vršič Pass for a more challenging hike. Enjoy the fresh air, green meadows, and views of Slovenia’s highest peaks. Return to town for a warm welcome and another relaxing night.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Kranjska Gora, Boutique Skipass Superior Hotel (upscale)

Day Eight: From Underground to the Seaside

Hit the road early for a longer drive to the coast (approx. 2.5 hours). On the way, stop at Škocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its massive underground chambers and stunning rock formations. Continue on to Piran, Slovenia’s coastal gem, where you’ll arrive in the afternoon. Wander through the narrow streets and enjoy the Mediterranean vibe of this charming seaside town. Stay overnight at Hotel Piran, where you can fall asleep to the sound of the sea.

Driving Distance: 160 km, 3h

Stay: Hotel Piran

Day Nine: Relaxing in Piran

Spend the day embracing the Adriatic. Relax on the beach, visit Piran’s maritime museum and Tartini Square, walk along the promenade, and dine on fresh seafood at Fritolin pri Cantini. In the evening, enjoy a gelato as you stroll along the marina.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Hotel Piran

Day Ten: Farewell, Slovenia

It’s time to say goodbye to Slovenia. Depending on your departure time, you may want to take one last stroll along Piran’s waterfront before hitting the road back to Ljubljana or your next destination. 

When to go

June to September – Slovenia is an all-year destination, for different reasons. In my opinion summer and early autumn are the best times to visit if you want to hike. Summer of course is the busiest time here, just like in the rest of Europe, but Slovenia is still great for escaping the heat waves and the famously crazier crowds in Italy or Greece for example. In summer you can expertly combine hiking in the mountains with a short classic beach holiday around Piran. In autumn the colors of the foliage can be breathtaking, the crowds thin, and accommodation gets slightly cheaper. In Spring the meadows are covered in wildflowers, the mountain peaks in snow, and the weather is colder but comfortable. In winter you can ski and if you’re lucky enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery covered in snow.

Poeple swimming in Lake Bohinj in Slovenia in summer

How to get around

Slovenia is pretty tiny, so getting around the country is easy and doesn’t take much time at all. You’ve got a bunch of good public transport options like trains and buses that won’t break the bank. Plus, renting a car is super affordable, so if you’re up for a road trip, you’re in for a treat.

By car | If you like the idea of driving yourself around, you can rent a car as soon as you land at the airport in Ljubljana. You’ll have an easier way to get to trailheads and nature areas. Just be aware that the roads up in the mountains are pretty tight and usually only fit one car at a time, which can slow you down, especially in busy spots like Lake Bled. And keep an eye out for the weather, as rain and fog are common up there. But don’t worry too much – driving is generally easy-going, and the roads are in good shape.

By train | You can count on the trains here to run on time, and they’re pretty up-to-date, too. Getting around the country by train should be easy. Plus, you can grab your ticket online before you go, which is super handy. Just a heads-up, trains won’t take you right up to the hiking spots – for that, you’ll likely need to hop on a bus as well. Check out this picture that shows all the train routes.

By bus | The bus is a solid choice for getting from one city to another in Slovenia. You can check out the bus times online and pick your seat before you even get to the station. I’m a fan of using the bus and Flixbus when I travel – they tend to be quicker and more on time than the train.

Cost of travel

Slovenia is relatively affordable for travelers of all budgets. Accommodation ranges from €20-35 per night for hostels to €60-100 for midrange hotels, while luxury stays start around €150. Food costs about €7-15 per meal for casual spots, €20-35 for midrange restaurants, and €50+ for fine dining. Transport is budget-friendly, with car rentals costing €30-50 per day and local buses averaging €1.50-3.00 per trip.

Budget travelers can expect to spend around €50-70 per day, while midrange budgets run closer to €100-150 per day. For a more luxurious experience, plan on spending upwards of €200 daily.

Foods to try

Dumplings | Sweet or savoury, dumplings come in all types in Slovenia. Our favourites are the cheese dumplings, served with a mushroom sauce

Frico (potato & cheese pie) | Traditional farmers pie made of potato and cheese – basically the greatest pie that’s ever been made – crispy cheese on the outside, cheese and potato on the inside

Mushroom soup | Mushrooms are in abundance in Slovenia, and a fresh mushroom soup is beyond delicious.

Pumpkin seed oil | Um, this might be the greatest thing we’ve ever tried! Used to dress everything from salads to ice-cream, pumpkin seed oil is a taste sensation

Slovenian honey | Slovenian’s love their honey – there are over 10,000 beekeepers in the country, which for a population of 2 million, is astounding. It makes sense – Slovenian honey is beautiful, so don’t forget to try/buy some

Best things to do in Bergen

Overview

Bergen, Norway, often called “The Gateway to the Fjords,” is one of those places that has a bit of everything. It’s got that postcard-perfect charm with its colorful houses, stunning fjord views, and mountains surrounding the city. If you only have time (or budget) for a short visit to Norway, Bergen is the place to be. I would even venture as far as to recommend skipping Oslo in favor of Bergen and the fjords, and not because I don’t like the capital, but because Bergen is really that amazing.

What to do

  • 1   Explore hystoric Bryggen
  • 2    Ride the Floibanen to Mount Floyen
  • 3    Visit the Fish Market (Fisketorget)
  • 4    Learn Some History at the Hanseatic Museum
  • 5    Climb to the Top of Mount Ulriken
  • 6    Bergen Aquarium (Akvariet i Bergen)
  • 7    Take a Fjord Tour

1 Explore Historic Bryggen

Bryggen is one of Bergen’s most iconic sights and a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its colorful wooden buildings lining the harbor. These old merchant houses date back to the 14th century when the Hanseatic League controlled trade in the region. Walking through this area feels like stepping back in time, with its narrow alleyways, wooden structures, and small artisanal shops selling everything from traditional crafts to souvenirs. In the backstreets and hidden courtyards behind the main row of buildings you’ll find small museums and cafes.

2 Ride the Floibanen to Mount Floyen

Mount Floyen is a must-see when you’re in Bergen, and the best part? It’s super accessible. Get on the Floibanen funicular, which takes you up to the top of Mount Floyen in about 6-7 minutes. The views from the summit are stunning, offering a panoramic look at the city, the fjords, and the surrounding mountains.

Once you’re at the top, there’s a lot to do. You can grab a coffee and enjoy the view, take a short hike, or even rent a bike if you’re feeling more adventurous. The trails around Mount Floyen are well-marked, and you can even hike all the way back down to the city center if you want a scenic walk.

3. Visit the Fish Market (Fisketorget)

Bergen’s Fish Market is a great place to experience Norwegian cuisine firsthand. Located right on the harbor, it’s a lively spot where you can pick up fresh seafood like salmon, king crab, and shrimp. Many stalls also offer ready-to-eat dishes, so it’s a good place for a casual lunch or snack. Although definitely geared towards tourists, here are even some local delicacies like reindeer or whale meat.

4. Learn Some History at the Hanseatic Museum

Located in one of the original buildings on Bryggen, the Hanseatic Museum is actually pretty interesting – it shows the lives of German merchants who controlled Bergen’s trade for over 400 years. You can get a realistic feel for the cramped living quarters and strict working conditions of the time. The museum does an excellent job of explaining the role of the Hanseatic League and how it influenced Bergen’s development. Even if you’re not much into history, the authentic setting makes it worth the visit.

5 Climb to the Top of Mount Ulriken

If you’re up for a more challenging hike, head to Mount Ulriken, the tallest of the seven mountains surrounding Bergen. You can either hike up (which takes about 1.5-2 hours) or take the Ulriksbanen cable car for a faster ascent. The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular—think endless fjords, mountain peaks, and, on a clear day, even a glimpse of the North Sea.

There are several hiking trails once you’re at the top, including a popular route to Mount Floyen if you’re up for a longer adventure.

6 Bergen Aquarium (Akvariet i Bergen)

Bergen Aquarium is perfect if you’re traveling with kids, but it’s also fun for adults interested in marine life. The aquarium is home to a wide variety of sea creatures, including seals, penguins, and fish native to the Norwegian coastline. They also have informative exhibits about Norway’s marine environment and conservation efforts.

Tip: the penguin feeding and seal shows are highlights, so try to time your visit around one of these events.

7 Take a Fjord Tour

You can’t visit Bergen without experiencing the magic of Norway’s fjords. There are plenty of boat tours leaving from Bergen’s harbor that will take you into the heart of the fjords. One of the most popular tours is the Norway in a Nutshell tour, which includes a boat trip through the fjords as well as a scenic train ride on the famous Flåm Railway and which you can replicate much cheaper yourself – see here how).

How to get there

By Plane | The easiest way to get to Bergen is by flying into Bergen Airport (BGO), also known as Flesland Airport. There are direct flights from major European cities like London, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, and Stockholm, as well as frequent domestic flights from Oslo and other Norwegian cities. From the airport, it’s just a 20-30 minute journey to the city center by:

– Light Rail (Bybanen): The most affordable option, costing around NOK 40-50 ($4-5), with trains departing every 10 minutes.

– Airport Shuttle (Flybussen): A bit quicker than the light rail and costs around NOK 130-150 ($12-15).

– Taxi: If you prefer convenience, a taxi ride to the city center will cost approximately NOK 400-500 ($40-50).

By Train | If you’re already in Norway, taking the train to Bergen is one of the most scenic options. The Bergen Line (Bergensbanen) from Oslo to Bergen is often considered one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys. The 7-hour ride takes you through dramatic landscapes, including fjords, mountains, and rivers. You can book tickets through Vy (Norwegian Railways), with prices ranging from NOK 300-800 ($30-80) depending on the class and time of booking.

By Car | Driving to Bergen can be a fantastic way to explore the Norwegian countryside, but keep in mind that some routes involve ferries, tunnels, and winding mountain roads. If you’re driving from Oslo, it’s a 7-8 hour journey, while from Stavanger, it’s about 5 hours. Be prepared for tolls along the way and beautiful but often narrow and winding roads, especially in the fjord regions.

By Bus | Several bus companies, such as Nor-Way Bussekspress and Vy Bus, offer routes to Bergen from other Norwegian cities. Traveling by bus is a good option if you’re coming from cities like Stavanger or Trondheim. While the journey can be long (about 5-6 hours from Stavanger), it’s more budget-friendly, with tickets costing between NOK 300-600 ($30-60).

By Ferry | For a unique experience, you can arrive in Bergen by ferry. Hurtigruten, known for its coastal cruises, operates daily ferry services along Norway’s coast, with Bergen being one of the main stops. This is a more leisurely option and offers stunning views of the coastline, fjords, and islands along the way. Ferries also connect Bergen to nearby towns like Stavanger and the fjord regions, perfect if you want to explore the western coast of Norway by water.

Pro tip |  If you have time, the combination of train and ferry (Norway in a Nutshell tour) from Oslo to Bergen is a fantastic way to see some of the best scenery Norway has to offer, including the fjords and mountains.

Where to stay

Budget | If you’re looking for a budget-friendly stay, Marken Guesthouse is a solid choice. Located just a short walk from Bergen’s city center and train station, this hostel offers both private rooms and dormitories at reasonable rates. It’s clean, comfortable, and has a cozy communal area where you can meet fellow travelers. You’ll also have access to a shared kitchen, which is a great way to save on dining costs in an otherwise pricey city. Book well in advance, especially in summer, as this hostel is popular with budget travelers and backpackers.

Midrange | For a charming, midrange option, Hotel Park Bergen is a great choice. It’s located in a historic building near the University of Bergen, just a short walk from the city center. The hotel offers individually decorated rooms with a cozy, boutique feel and a great breakfast spread in the morning. Guests love the warm, welcoming atmosphere and the fact that it’s slightly away from the hustle and bustle of the touristy areas. Ask for a room on the upper floors for a better view of Bergen’s scenic rooftops and mountains.

Boutique | For a more boutique experience, Det Hanseatiske Hotel is an excellent option. Located right in the heart of Bryggen (the old Hanseatic wharf), this hotel offers rooms full of character with a mix of historic charm and modern comfort. The exposed wooden beams and rustic decor give it a traditional Norwegian feel, but with all the modern amenities you need. Plus, you’ll be staying steps away from some of Bergen’s top attractions, like the Hanseatic Museum and the Fish Market. Book a room with views of Bryggen for an authentic Bergen experience.

High-End | Opus XVI is one of Bergen’s top hotels. This upscale hotel is housed in a grand historic building, offering spacious and elegantly designed rooms. Located in the city center, it’s within walking distance of most of the major attractions, but it also feels secluded and peaceful. The hotel also offers an excellent on-site restaurant and impeccable service. Perfect for those looking to indulge in some Norwegian luxury.

Cost of travel

Bergen can be pricey, but it offers something for every budget. For accommodation, budget travelers can expect to pay around NOK 300-500 (€25-45) per night for hostels or guesthouses, while midrange hotels range from NOK 800-1,500 (€70-130). Luxury stays cost upwards of NOK 2,000 (€170) per night.

Food prices vary from NOK 150-250 (€13-22) for a meal at a casual cafe, while dining at midrange restaurants costs around NOK 250-400 (€22-35). Public transport is affordable, with fares around NOK 40-50 (€3.50-4.50), and the Bergen Card offers discounts on attractions and free public transport. On average, budget travelers can expect to spend NOK 700-1,000 (€60-85) per day, while midrange travelers might spend NOK 1,500-2,500 (€130-215).

Reinebringen hike, Lofoten islands

Overview

The Reinebringen hike is one of the most iconic and rewarding hikes in Lofoten, offering sweeping views of Reine and the surrounding fjords. Known for its steep climb and unparalleled panoramas, it’s a must-do for anyone visiting the Lofoten Islands. The hike, although short, is intense and requires a good level of fitness, but the effort is well worth it once you reach the top.

The Hike

  • Difficulty: Moderate due to its steep incline.
  • Distance: Approximately 1.5 kilometers each way.
  • Elevation: The trail ascends about 450 meters.
  • Time: 2-3 hours round trip, depending on your pace and time spent enjoying the views at the summit.

The hike starts just outside of Reine, and you’ll quickly find yourself on a steep path with a series of stone steps built by Sherpas to help prevent erosion and improve the safety of the route. Though the trail is well-marked and relatively short, the incline is unrelenting, so be prepared for a leg workout. The final stretch involves a few rocky sections, so take care if the conditions are wet. As you reach the summit, the incredible views make all the effort worthwhile. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the turquoise fjords, tiny fishing villages, and jagged mountains that define the Lofoten landscape.

What to Expect at the Top

Once you make it to the top of Reinebringen, the views are truly spectacular. The fjords spread out below you like something out of a postcard, and the colorful fishing cabins in Reine look like tiny dots on the water’s edge. Whether you’re there at sunrise, sunset, or midday, the scenery is unforgettable. Be sure to bring a camera – the photos you capture here are bound to be some of the best from your trip.

Tips for the hike

– Safety First: The hike is steep and can be slippery, especially in wet conditions. Proper hiking shoes with good grip are a must.

– Best Time to Go: Early mornings or late evenings during the summer months are ideal for avoiding the crowds and capturing the best light for photos.

– Bring Water: There are no facilities along the trail, so be sure to bring enough water and snacks for the climb.

– Check the Weather: Weather in Lofoten can be unpredictable, so check the forecast before you set out. Avoid hiking in heavy rain or fog, as the trail can become dangerous.

Is It Worth the Hike?

Absolutely. While the Reinebringen hike is demanding, it’s a must for outdoor enthusiasts and anyone looking to experience Lofoten’s natural beauty from a bird’s-eye view. The combination of challenging terrain and stunning rewards makes it one of the best hikes in Norway. Just remember to take your time, stay safe, and soak in the view from the top – it’s one you won’t forget.

Hiking in the Lofoten

Lofoten’s hikes are generally shorter but steeper due to the islands’ unique geology. You won’t find long-distance, gradual trails here—instead, expect routes that take you straight up and down the mountains. Most hikes reward you with panoramic views over the dramatic fjords, tiny fishing villages, and the open sea. Popular trails, like Reinebringen or Nubben, are well-trodden and offer built-in steps to help with erosion and safety, but many lesser-known hikes are more rugged and require good trail-finding skills.

Other popular hikes

Ryten: If you’re looking for a hike that balances effort and reward without being overly strenuous, Ryten might be the perfect choice. This moderate hike takes you to an elevation of around 543 meters, offering awesome views of the white sands of Kvalvika Beach below. The trail begins near Fredvang. While it’s longer compared to some other hikes in Lofoten, the terrain is fairly forgiving, making it accessible for most hikers.

Munkebu Hut: For a more challenging adventure, the hike to Munkebu Hut offers a true view of Lofoten’s rugged beauty. Starting from Sørvågen, this trek takes you through varied terrain, with mountain lakes, streams and rocky outcrops. The elevation gain is tough, and there are a mix of steep climbs and rocky paths. After about five hours, you’ll reach Munkebu Hut, a cabin high in the mountains managed by the Norwegian Trekking Association, where you can stay overnight (check availability, as the hut operates on a first-come, first-served basis).

Bunes Beach: Accessible by ferry from Reine to Vinstad, the hike to Bunes Beach is a completely different experience – simple and peaceful. This relatively easy trek, just about an hour each way, is a great option for a relaxing day. The path is mostly flat, leading to the wide, sandy expanse of secluded Bunes Beach.

Tips for Hiking in Lofoten

– Be Prepared for Steep Terrain: Lofoten’s hikes may be short in distance but are often steep and can be challenging. Good hiking boots with ankle support are essential.

– Weather Can Change Quickly: The weather in Lofoten is notoriously unpredictable, so pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and be prepared for sudden changes.

– Respect Nature: Many of the trails go through pristine natural environments, so be sure to follow Leave No Trace principles, stick to marked paths, and take all your trash with you.

Best Time to Hike

The summer months, from June to September, are the best time for hiking in Lofoten. During this time, you can take advantage of the midnight sun, allowing you to hike late into the evening with full daylight. However, the shoulder seasons of May and October can also be rewarding for those looking to avoid crowds, though weather conditions may be more unpredictable.

Finish

The very end of the trail leads you to the touristy part of the plantation. You can buy drinks and snacks here. To leave, you’ll need to walk up towards the road and unfortunately you’ll need to pay the entrance fee to the plantation (yes, they will stop you on the way out with eagle eyes!).

To get back to Tanah Rata, you will either have to hitchhike (which shouldn’t take long as there are lots of cars heading towards Tanah Rata), or you can flag down a taxi from the road. You can also try calling a Grab, but you’ll probably have to wait a long time as they are not so frequent here.

Hiking in Norway

Trail markers in Norway

In Norway, hiking trails are usually well-marked, making it easier for both experienced and novice hikers to navigate the country’s stunning landscapes. The trail marking system is designed for visibility and simplicity, ensuring you stay on track, even in more remote areas.

The most common type of trail marker in Norway is a red “T” symbol, often painted on rocks, trees, or cairns. This symbol is maintained by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), which manages thousands of kilometers of hiking trails across the country. The red “T” is easily spotted and is often found along the most popular and scenic routes, leading hikers through mountains, valleys, and along coastal trails. In addition to the red “T,” you’ll often see cairns (piles of stones) marking trails, particularly in rocky or exposed areas where there are no trees. In more open terrain, wooden poles are sometimes used to guide hikers along the path. These markers are spaced close enough to remain visible, even in poor weather conditions. At trailheads or key intersections, you’ll find wooden signposts indicating the distance to various destinations, often with estimated hiking times. These signs are very helpful for planning your hike and ensuring you’re on the right path. Norwegian hiking trails are often categorized by difficulty and color-coded on maps and signs:

  • Green: Easy hikes, suitable for beginners or family-friendly trails.
  • Blue: Moderate difficulty, requiring a bit more endurance but still accessible for most hikers.
  • Red: Challenging hikes, often involving steep or rugged terrain.
  • Black: Expert-level trails, which may involve scrambling or technical climbing sections.

Can you visit Lofoten without a car?

Overview

Up north within the Arctic Circle, Norway’s Lofoten Islands are a dream for nature lovers, with plenty of dramatic landscapes, authentic looking fishing villages, and an abundance of outdoor activities. While most travelers opt to explore these islands by car, it’s entirely possible to experience the magic of Lofoten without one. In fact, going car-free can lead to a more immersive, sustainable, and memorable adventure. Here’s how to make the most of your Lofoten experience without the need for four wheels.

Getting there

There are different transport option, depending where you come from:

– From Bodø, take a ferry to Moskenes or a speedboat to Svolvær

– From Oslo, Bergen or Bodø, fly directly into Svolvær or Leknes with Widerøe

– From Tromsø take the Hurtigruten coastal steamer (16-18h) or take a bus to Harstad and then a ferry

Arriving from Bodø, I chose to take the Moskenes ferry both ways. The speedboat to Svolvaer is pretty limited in departures and the times didn’t work for me. It takes longer than the ferry, and can be rougher too. The best part is, the ferry to Moskenes is free if you don’t have a car (you can pre-book tickets for a fee, but don’t do this, half the tickets are always available at boarding).

Getting around

One of the biggest challenges in the Lofoten Islands is actually getting around. All the travel guides and sources I could find make it sound like you absolutely cannot get by without a car or a van. Fortunately this is not true. The car rental in June would’ve cost around 300€ (!) per day, so I was determined to find another solution. Sure, it’s hard to get to certain areas or to explore in-depth on foot, but it’s easy to meaningfully spend 4-5 days and focus on the highlights or on only one area of Lofoten.

1 Buses in Lofoten

Lofoten has a reliable bus network that connects the main towns and villages across the islands The main bus route runs on the E10 highway, between the larger towns like Svolvær, Leknes, and Å (actually this is a combination of different routes, but it generally shows where you can get to by bus.

These buses are operated by Torghatten Nord and Nordland fylkeskommune. They don’t run often – typically a few times a day, with more frequent services in the summer. Use the Reis Nordland website or app to check bus schedules and plan your trips. You can buy tickets on the bus with cash or a card. Alternatively, purchase tickets in advance using the Reis Nordland app, which might offer slight discounts.

2 Cycling Around Lofoten

For an adventurous and eco-friendly way to explore, cycling is a fantastic option. Several shops in Svolvær, Leknes, and Reine offer bike rentals. Some accommodations might also rent out bikes to their guests. Here are the bigger bike rentals:

In Svolvær:

Lofoten Aktiv | Offers bike rentals, including electric bikes. They also provide guided cycling tours.

Lofoten Explorer | Known for kayak and boat tours, they also offer bike rentals. It’s a convenient option if you’re looking to mix activities.

In Leknes:

Intersport Leknes | A sporting goods store that provides bike rentals, especially in the summer. They offer a range of bicycles suitable for exploring the area.

Lofoten Basecamp | Located just outside Leknes, they offer bike rentals along with various other outdoor gear for hire, including tents and hiking equipment.

In Reine:

Reine Adventure | Known for their adventure activities and kayak rentals, Reine Adventure also offers bike rentals for exploring the nearby areas.

Reine Rorbuer | This accommodation provider sometimes offers bike rentals for their guests and can arrange rentals if needed. It’s a good option if you’re staying there or nearby.

The E10 highway, which runs through the islands, has relatively low traffic and stunning views, making it popular with cyclists. There are also quieter side roads and paths where you can cycle at a more leisurely pace. Lofoten’s terrain is varied, so be prepared for some hills and changing weather conditions. That said, the breathtaking landscapes make every pedal worth it.

3 Hiking: Discover Lofoten on Foot

Lofoten is a hiker’s paradise, and many of its most beautiful spots are best explored on foot. Trails like Reinebringen, Kvalvika Beach, and the trek to Munkebu Hut offer some of the most iconic views in Lofoten. These hikes vary in difficulty, so there’s something for everyone. Most trailheads are accessible by bus, and some are even walkable from towns. Always check the bus schedules to ensure you can return after your hike. Wear proper hiking boots and carry a map or GPS, as weather can change rapidly, and some trails can be challenging.

4 Guided Tours and Activities

If you prefer structured experiences, guided tours are an excellent way to see the islands. Here are some of the most popular tours from Svolvær, Leknes, and Reinebringen that you can book on GetYourGuide:

From Svolvær:

RIB Sea Eagle Safari to Trollfjord | This exciting boat tour takes you through the scenic Trollfjord, where you’ll have the chance to spot sea eagles up close. It’s one of the most popular wildlife tours in Lofoten and lasts about 2 hours.

Lofoten Islands 5-Hour Tour | This guided tour explores the islands’ landscapes, from scenic fjords to charming fishing villages like Henningsvær and Nusfjord.

Northern Lights Tour by Van | If you’re coming in winter, this 4-hour small-group tour provides expert guidance on where and when to spot the aurora.

From Leknes:

Private Lofoten Tour with Transfer | Explore Lofoten’s iconic spots, from Vik Beach to the picturesque village of Reine. This private tour allows flexibility, perfect for cruise passengers or with limited time.

Lofoten Landscapes Photography Tour | Designed for photography enthusiasts, this full-day tour takes you to some of Lofoten’s most photogenic locations, including Ramberg and Reine.

Tips

Why is it good, not to drive?

– Cost savings – obviously. As mentioned above, car rental can get extremely expensive. Not only that, but gas in Norway is also expensive, and unless you’re splitting the cost across several people, it adds to an already expensive destination.

– The roads are beautiful, but hard to drive. With lots of blind curves, heavy traffic (compared to the size of the place) and narrow lanes it looks pretty advanced to drive a van here.

– Lack of parking at destinations is very annoying and a big issue especially in high season.

The most important tips

  1. Plan well where to enter and exit the Lofoten – ferries and buses are not that frequent and distances can be big.
  2. Choose your bases carefully: I based my trip in Reine, which has easy access to other highlights, accessible trailheads and organized tours, like kayaking. 
  3. Plan your transit ahead of time: schedule your bus trips between the cities and for your flight in advance. Transportation options also vary by season, with more services available in the summer, so keep this in mind. 
  4. Be ready to bike: you can reach places like Henningsvær and lesser-known trailheads by bike. If you’re not open to cycling, you’ll likely have to stick to more structured, package tours.
  5. Travel light – a great idea on any trip, but especially important here.
  6. Be patient – embrace the slower pace of travel. Waiting for a bus or taking the scenic route often leads to unexpected discoveries.

Where to stay

Stay in a rorbuer (traditional fishermen’s cabin), which is a highlight in itself: Reine Rorbuer offers cozy, traditional rorbuer cabins right on the waterfront with breathtaking views of the surrounding fjords and mountains. The cabins combine rustic charm with modern amenities, so you can have a comfortable and warm stay.

Other than a rorbuer, here are the best options in all 3 towns:

(Reine) Catogården is a unique, cozy guesthouse that offers a blend of comfort and community. The house has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with shared kitchen facilities, beautiful common areas, a sauna and stunning views of the fjords. They also organise kayak tours. 

(Leknes) Scandic Leknes offers a comfortable, modern stay in the heart of Leknes. It’s a great base for exploring the nearby beaches and fjords, with free parking and a convenient location. The hotel offers a cozy atmosphere with a restaurant serving traditional Norwegian dishes, ideal for both solo travelers and families.

(Svolvær) Thon Hotel Lofoten is a high-quality hotel located right by the harbor in Svolvær. Offering modern rooms with spectacular views, it’s a top choice for those who want to explore the town and its surroundings. The hotel also features an excellent restaurant serving local cuisine, and it’s well-known for its eco-friendly initiatives.

My actual itinerary

Day 0: Getting to Reine – hike to Hamnøy
I chose the Bodø – Moskenes ferry to get to the Lofoten, then made my way to Catogården, a comfortable guesthouse in Reine with great views, where I closed the day with a sauna session (and did manage a dip in the arctic water after 3 rounds of sweating!)

Day 1: Reine – Reinebringen Hike
I started the first day in Reine. First up was hiking Reinebringen – steep but totally worth it for the epic views over the fjords and villages.

Day 2: Å and Kayak Tour
On day two, I took a quick day trip to Å by bus, the last village on the archipelago, followed by a kayak tour around the fjords. Seeing Lofoten from the water was a highlight, offering a peaceful change from the mountain hikes.

Day 3: Flakstad – Lofoten Beach Camp and Nubben Hike
I moved to Lofoten Beach Camp in Flakstad, set up camp, and hiked to Nubben near Ramberg Beach. It’s an easy hike with great views over the coastline, and the beach camp was a nice, laid-back spot to relax afterward.

Day 4: Arctic Surfing and Midnight Sun Photography
On my last day, I went arctic surfing – not as cold as it sounds, but you do need a very thick wetsuit. Afterward, I made the most of the midnight sun to capture some amazing photos, with the sun never fully setting in the summer.

Ultimate guide to Malaysia

Malaysia

Many travelers bypass Malaysia, viewing it merely as a transit point during their Southeast Asian backpacking trips. However, Malaysia is one of the most accessible and budget-friendly destinations in the region. With a lenient visa policy allowing stays of up to 90 days, a diverse culinary scene, and a bunch of unique sights, Malaysia offers much to be discovered. Here’s a detailed travel guidea and a 3-week itinerary covering the top attractions in peninsular Malaysia and Borneo, the best places to stay, and tips on navigating the country with ease.

Itinerary

MalaccaKuala LumpurIpohCameron HighlandsPenang – Kuching – Kota Kinabalu – (Semporna) – Kuala Lumpur. Click on the map below to see my pins in Google Maps!

Day 1-2: Malacca

Malacca is your first stop if arriving from Singapore, where most international flights land (in my opinion it’s usually cheaper to fly to Singapore from Europe or US than to Kuala Lumpur). Kick off your Malaysian adventure in the historic city of Malacca, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its rich history and unique architecture. Explore the red-stained Christ Church and the storied Jonker street night market. Take a leisurely river cruise or a trishaw ride around the quaint streets, and don’t miss sampling the local Nyonya cuisine, which blends Chinese ingredients with Malay spices.

Stay: Yote28 (budget), 1825 Gallery Hotel (butique)

Jonker street during the day Malacca, Malaysia

Day 3-5: Kuala Lumpur

Next, take a bus to the dynamic capital, Kuala Lumpur (sadly there is no train connection here). Spend your days visiting iconic landmarks such as the Petronas Twin Towers and Batu Caves. Immerse yourself in the local culture and food scene at the bustling markets of Chinatown and the vibrant streets of Little India. For shopping enthusiasts, the city’s numerous malls are truly impressive and offer everything from luxury brands to local handicrafts (plus much-needed aircon).

Stay: The Bed KLCC (budget), Ritz Carlton (upscale)

Day 6-7: Ipoh

Continue your journey to Ipoh, a cool city often overlooked by tourists, known for its colonial heritage and a booming food scene. Visit the Ipoh Heritage Trail and explore historical buildings like the Ipoh Railway Station and the Birch Memorial Clock Tower. The limestone caves, such as Kek Lok Tong and Perak Cave Temple, offer stunning natural beauty and a peaceful escape from city life. Food is also big here – some people come only to try the famous Ipoh white coffee and the local special dishes (like Lou Wong’s chicken rice, yum!).

Stay: Brownstone (budget), Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat (upscale)

Day 8-10: Cameron Highlands

Head up to the cooler climates of Cameron Highlands, a perfect retreat for nature lovers. Tour the vast tea plantations and go see the Mossy Forest, a unique type of jungle at elevation. The best thing to do here is to go for a hike, through jungle, gorgeous views and working tea plantations.

Eat: pasar malam night market

Day 11-13: Penang (Georgetown)

Drive down to Penang and explore Georgetown, another UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its well-preserved colonial architecture and vibrant street art. Stroll through the streets to witness the fusion of cultures and taste the famed street food, including Char Kuey Teow and Assam Laksa. Visit the Pinang Peranakan Mansion and Fort Cornwallis to delve deeper into the local history.

Eat: Teksen

Day 14-17: Kuching

Fly to Kuching, the capital of Sarawak on the island of Borneo. This charming city is the gateway to the region’s natural wonders. There’s a lot to do here, you’ll need at least 3 nights to see the best parts of Sarawak. Visit the Sarawak Cultural Village to learn about the local indigenous cultures. Explore Bako National Park, where you can see wildlife like proboscis monkeys and unique plant species. Enjoy a sunset cruise on the Sarawak River to end your days on a peaceful note.

Stay: Threehouse B&B (budget), The Waterfront (upscale)

Day 18-20: Kota Kinabalu

Next, head to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, a city known for its stunning sunsets, bustling markets, and proximity to beautiful islands. Visit the Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and take a day trip to the nearby islands for snorkeling and relaxing on white-sand beaches. There’s also a mountain to be climbed, if that’s your thing. Mount Kinabalu with its 4095 meters is the highest point in Malaysia, and can only be climbed with a guide and permit (making it quite an expensive adventure unfortunately).

Stay: Le Meridien

Proboscis monkey, Bako park Malaysia

When to go

December to March (for West Malaysia): Malaysia’s tropical climate has warm and humid weather year-round, with temperatures typically ranging from 25°C to 32°C in the lowlands. In the highlands temperatures are usually between 15°C and 25°C. The optimal time to visit West Malaysia, including popular destinations like Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and the Cameron Highlands, is from December to March when the weather is relatively dry and sunny, perfect for exploring cities and enjoying the beaches.

March to September (for Borneo): Borneo experiences its dry season from March to September, making it the best period for wildlife spotting and outdoor activities due to minimal rainfall. 

If you want to combine the two, the shoulder months of March to April offer a good balance with fewer tourists and relatively dry weather in both areas.

How to get there

If you’re flying to Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL) serves as the main international gateway, with direct flights from cities like London, New York, Sydney, and Tokyo. Singapore can also be an alternative to consider when looking for cheap flights –  you can easily take a bus into Malaysia. Browse through Kiwi or Expedia for a cheap flight from your home country to Malaysia. If you’re currently traveling around Southeast Asia, you can catch affordable flights from neighboring countries with carriers such as AirAsia, a popular low-cost airline in Asia that is headquartered in Kuala Lumpur.

From Nearby Countries

From Singapore | There are several regular buses and trains connecting Singapore with Johor Bahru, and from there you can continue to other parts of Malaysia. The bus journey to Kuala Lumpur typically takes about 5-6 hours. The best idea is to take a bus directly to Malacca, and start your itinerary there. This should cost you around 80 MYR, and it will take you 4 hours. Book your bus ticket from 12Go Asia for this trip. 

From Thailand | If you are currently in Thailand and want to visit Malaysia, buses and trains frequently run from southern Thailand to the Malaysian states of Perlis, Kedah, and Penang. (For example, several buses connect Hat Yai (Thailand) to George Town, Penang. This trip should cost around 40 MYR and will take around 4-5 hours.) For a scenic adventure, take the train from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur, it is slow but a cool adventure, featuring rural and coastal vistas.

How to get around

By Air | Domestic flights provide a quick way to travel from Kuala Lumpur to places like Penang, Kuching, and Kota Kinabalu. The airline with the most frequent flights is AirAsia, but there are several other budget airlines to choose from. See all the domestic flight routes below.

By public transport | There are train and public bus connections between all major tourist destinations. The Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) operates rail services that span the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia from Perlis to Johor, including a route to the scenic Cameron Highlands. Virtually everything else is covered by buses.

By car | Malaysia’s excellent highway network makes driving a practical choice. Car rentals are available at airports and major cities, offering you the freedom to explore at your pace.

Cost of travel

Transportation Costs | Your primary expense is likely to be your flight into Malaysia. Internal flights can vary, but budget airlines like AirAsia offer many routes between cities for as little as $20-$100. For ground travel, buses and trains are extremely economical; intercity train fares can range from $2 to $30, and extensive bus services are similarly priced. Within cities, public transportation such as buses and metro systems usually cost under $1 per ride. Taxis and rideshares are more costly but still reasonable, starting from around $1-$2 for short trips.

Accommodation | Hotel prices in Malaysia offer great flexibility. Mid-range hotels average $40-$100 per night, while budget travelers can find hostels for $10-$20 per night. Many hostels also include kitchens, which can help reduce food costs.

Food and Drink | Malaysia is celebrated for its street food, which not only offers a taste of the local cuisine but is also light on the wallet. Meals at street vendors typically cost between $1-$3. Dining in mid-range restaurants will generally set you back about $5-$15 per meal. For those looking to splurge, a dinner at a high-end restaurant can vary from $20 to $100, depending on the location and menu.

Activities | Entry fees for major attractions in Malaysia are quite reasonable, with most ranging from $1 to $10. Specialized activities, like diving or guided jungle treks, generally cost between $30 and $100, which often includes equipment rental and expert guidance.

For budget-conscious travelers, it’s possible to enjoy a day’s worth of activities, meals, and accommodations for under $30. A more comfortable mid-range budget could average around $50-$150 per day, while indulging in luxury experiences and accommodations could raise daily expenses to over $200. With careful planning and local insights, Malaysia offers an enriching travel experience that can be tailored to suit various budgets.

Best things to do in Cappadocia, Turkey

Overview

If you’ve contemplated going to Turkey before, you’ve probably heard of Cappadocia and seen the iconic hot air balloon photos above the pink rock valley.

No wonder these photos are used to advertise a trip to Turkey. Cappadocia is a place like no other. Famous for its unique rock formations, ancient underground cities, and breathtaking hot air balloon rides, this region boasts landscapes that feel almost lunar. Yes it is popular, but far from a worthless tourist trap. Cappadocia is truly magical and unique and you don’t have to go far to still find its authentic parts.

Historically, Cappadocia has served as a vital crossroads of civilizations. Its history dates back to the Hittites, around 1800 BCE, and it has been inhabited by various cultures, including the Phrygians, Persians, Romans, and Byzantines. One of the most intriguing aspects of Cappadocia is its underground cities, such as Derinkuyu and Kaymakli. These subterranean complexes, carved from soft volcanic rock, could house thousands of people and were used as refuges during times of invasion. In addition to its geological and historical significance, Cappadocia is notable for its cultural legacy. Early Christians found sanctuary in the region, carving out houses, churches and monasteries from the rock.

What to do

  • 1   Go on a hot air balloon ride
  • 2   Watch the balloons from the ground
  • 3   Explore the open-air museums
  • 4   Visit the underground cities
  • 5   Hike (or ride a horse) in the valleys
  • 6   Enjoy a traditional Turkish night
  • 7   Stay in a cave hotel
  • 8   See the views from Uchisar castle
  • 9   Pottery and carpets in Avanos
  • 10  Eat great food

1 Go on a Hot Air Balloon Ride

One of the most iconic experiences in Cappadocia is taking a hot air balloon ride over the fairy chimneys and vast valleys. The sight of dozens of balloons floating in the early morning light is truly surreal. The view is extraordinary and ballooning here is very safe. The rides start very early in the morning, allowing you to catch the sunrise from a unique vantage point. Read everything about hot air ballooning in Cappadocia in my detailed post.

2 Watch the balloons in the morning

Watching the balloons float across the valleys is equally beautiful from the ground. You should dedicate at least one morning to see it from this perspective. There are sunrise viewpoints on Google maps you can walk to in Göreme and in Cavusin, or you can watch it from the balcony of your hotel. The most famous hotel for instagram photos is Sultan Cave Suites, but unless you want the whole photo prop with the fake breakfast, you don’t need to pick the hotel with the “best view”, any hotel with a balcony will do, the view is the same. If you consider staying outside of Göreme, I really recommend Seki Cave Suites hotel in Cavusin, where you can walk directly onto the hill behind the hotel where other people hike to take great photos. You could also opt to start your hike in Rose and Red valley in time for the balloons, but this means waking up very early.

3 Explore the Open-Air Museums

A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Göreme Open-Air Museum is an essential stop for understanding Cappadocia’s rich history. The site features rock-cut churches with stunning frescoes that date back to the 10th century. Visiting this complex is as essential to a Cappadocia itinerary as seeing the balloons at sunrise, and gives a fascinating glimpse into the monastic life of the past.

Another impressive historical site is the Zelve Open-Air Museum, which offers a less crowded but equally interesting experience. Here, you can explore a network of caves and tunnels used by early Christians as a hiding spot from persecutors.

4 Visit the Underground Cities

Cappadocia hosts several underground cities, with Derinkuyu and Kaymakli being the most famous. These cities were used by early Christians as refuges and could house thousands of people. Exploring these subterranean complexes is a unique adventure and offers insight into the ingenious survival tactics of ancient civilizations.

5 Hike (or ride a horse) in the Valleys

Cappadocia’s landscapes are perfect for hiking. Not only because you get to see the beutiful rock formations from up close, but also because hiking lets you get away from the tourist hordes and have a completely different, peaceful and local experience exploring unmarked cave houses and temples (some of them intact with colorful frescoes!), and lookout points where you will be completely alone. You can read about hiking in Cappadocia in detail (with maps and detailed descriptions) in my post about the top 2 routes. You can also go for sunrise or sunset horse riding in the valleys, another great experience to see the unique landscapes.

6 Enjoy a traditional Turkish Night

Experience Cappadocian culture with a night of traditional Turkish music and dance. Many local restaurants and hotels offer Turkish night shows, where you can enjoy folk dances, belly dancing, and sometimes even participate in the festivities. I had a great time in Seyyah Han in Cavusin – didn’t book a table in advance but the owner was so kind he asked his friends to make room for me:) The food was great, and the voice of the lady singing was so beautiful I ended up making and embarrassing amount of videos…

7 Stay in a Cave Hotel

For a truly unique experience, spend a night in one of Cappadocia’s cave hotels. These hotels are incredibly atmospheric while offering all the modern comforts. Most people opt to stay in Göreme (the tourist center in Cappadocia valley), but I wanted to stay a bit out of the crowd (and closer to the hiking trails in Rose and Red valley), so I opted for Seki Cave Hotel in Cavusin. I can really recommend this hotel – the rooms are beautiful, breakfast is very good and the sunrise view is great not only from the hotel, but also from the hill behind it where you can just directly walk up from your room.

8 Capture the Panoramic Views from Uçhisar Castle

Uçhisar Castle provides one of the highest viewpoints in Cappadocia, offering spectacular views of the surrounding valleys and villages. The climb to the top is worth it for the breathtaking panorama that stretches out below you. You can combine visiting Uchisar castle with a day of hiking in nearby Pigeon and Love valley – both valleys are stunning and represent two iconic local landscapes.

9. Pottery and Carpets in Avanos

The town of Avanos is famous for its pottery and ceramic art, a tradition that dates back to the Hittites. Visit a pottery workshop to see the craftsmen at work or try your hand at the potter’s wheel. The town is also known for its beautiful handmade carpets, another of Turkey’s rich artisan traditions.

10. Eat great food

It’s Turkey after all. Restaurants I’ve tried and can highly recommend in Göreme are Old Cappadocia and Fat Boys (both famous for the “pottery kebab”, which is lamb chops served in a flaming clay pot) and Dibek where you get to sit on colorful pillows on the ground (don’t leave without ordering the mezze platter). In Cavusin you can try Seyyah Han (with amazing live music on some nights and a great view) and the hilariously named Cappa Gusto with great food and a modern interior.

How Much Time You Need

To fully experience Cappadocia, you should ideally plan for at least three to four days. This duration allows you to explore its stunning landscapes, ancient cave dwellings, underground cities, and, of course, take a hot air balloon ride without feeling rushed.

1-2 Days | If you are short on time, you can still catch the highlights. Start with a sunrise hot air balloon ride, then visit the Göreme Open-Air Museum and take a quick hike through Love Valley or Pigeon Valley. You can also squeeze in a visit to an underground city like Kaymakli or Derinkuyu.

3-4 Days | This timeframe allows for a deeper exploration of Cappadocia’s unique attractions. You’ll have time to enjoy a more relaxed balloon ride, visit multiple valleys like Ihlara and Red Valley, and take day trips to local villages such as Avanos or Çavuşin.

How to get there

By Car | If you prefer the flexibility of driving, Cappadocia is easily accessible by car from major cities. The drive from Ankara takes about 3.5 to 4 hours, while the journey from Istanbul is around 8 hours. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore the region’s unique landscapes at your own pace, from the fairy chimneys to the hidden valleys.

By Plane | The easiest way to get to Cappadocia is by flying into either Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR) or Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV). Both airports are well connected to major cities like Istanbul, with frequent domestic flights available. Kayseri Airport is about 1 hour away from the heart of Cappadocia, while Nevşehir is around 30 minutes. From either airport, you can take a shuttle service, taxi, or rent a car to reach your accommodation.

By Bus | Long-distance buses are a popular and affordable way to travel to Cappadocia from major cities like Istanbul, Ankara, and Antalya. The journey from Istanbul to Göreme takes around 10-12 hours, while buses from Ankara take about 4-5 hours. Bus services arrive at either Nevşehir or Göreme, and from there, you can easily reach local hotels by taxi or shuttle.

Where to stay

In a cave hotel! Cappadocia is famous for its unique cave hotels, offering a blend of luxury and authenticity. Popular areas to stay include Göreme, Ürgüp, and Uçhisar. Göreme is central and offers a variety of accommodations from budget hostels to luxury cave hotels. Ürgüp is known for its boutique hotels and fine dining options, while Uçhisar provides stunning panoramic views and a quieter atmosphere. My favorite place to stay a little off the (more) beaten track is Cavusin. I stayed at Seki Cave Suites and couldn’t have had a better experience. Be sure to book your stay well in advance, especially if you plan to visit during peak seasons (you’ll also get a better price if you book earlier).

If you rather fancy staying in Göreme, where the action is, here are a few great places I recommend:

Budget | Coco Cave Pension is an excellent choice for budget travelers looking for a clean, friendly, and affordable place to stay in Göreme. This family-run guesthouse offers dormitory and private rooms, a cozy common area, and an outdoor pool. It’s conveniently located just a short walk from Göreme’s town center, making it easy to explore the surrounding area on foot.

Midrange | Sultan Cave Suites is a popular midrange option offering an authentic cave hotel experience without breaking the bank. Situated on a hill in Göreme, this hotel offers stunning views of the valley and the hot air balloons in the morning. Each room is uniquely designed within the rock formations, and the rooftop terrace is perfect for taking in the breathtaking Cappadocian landscapes.

High-End | For a luxurious stay, the Museum Hotel in Uçhisar is an unforgettable experience. This award-winning hotel is built into a cliff and offers cave rooms furnished with antiques, giving it the feel of a living museum. The hotel provides stunning views over the valley, an infinity pool, a gourmet restaurant, and top-notch service. It’s a perfect choice for those seeking a high-end, indulgent experience in Cappadocia.

Cost of travel

Transportation Costs | The cost of getting to Cappadocia depends on your departure point. Domestic flights from Istanbul to Kayseri or Nevşehir range from $30 to $100, depending on the season and how early you book. Shuttle services from either airport to your hotel cost around $10 to $15 per person. If you opt to travel by bus from major Turkish cities like Istanbul or Ankara, ticket prices typically range from $15 to $30, depending on the bus company and the level of comfort.

Accommodation | Cappadocia offers a wide range of accommodations to suit various budgets. Budget travelers can find hostels and guesthouses for as little as $20 to $40 per night. Mid-range boutique hotels, including the famous cave hotels, range from $70 to $150 per night. For a luxurious experience, upscale cave hotels with panoramic views or spa services can cost upwards of $200 to $500 per night, especially during peak season.

Food and Drink | Dining in Cappadocia is relatively affordable, with many local restaurants offering traditional Turkish meals at reasonable prices. Eating at a local eatery or café will typically cost around $5 to $10 per meal. A meal at a mid-range restaurant, with drinks included, can range from $15 to $30 per person. For a more upscale dining experience, expect to pay $40 to $80 per person.

Activities | One of the biggest expenses in Cappadocia is the famous hot air balloon ride, which can range from $150 to $250 per person, depending on the company and the time of year. Entrance fees for attractions like the Göreme Open-Air Museum cost around $10 per person. Guided tours, whether hiking, visiting underground cities, or exploring valleys, typically range from $40 to $100, depending on the length and inclusions of the tour.

Overall Budget | For budget travelers, it’s possible to enjoy Cappadocia with daily expenses of $50 to $80 per day if you stay in budget accommodations, eat at local restaurants, and avoid expensive activities like balloon rides. A mid-range experience, including a hot air balloon ride, will typically cost around $150 to $250 per day. For a more luxurious experience with high-end accommodations and dining, expect to spend upwards of $400 per day.

San Bernardo islands – untravelled gems near Cartagena

Overview

The San Bernardo archipelago is not very far away from Cartagena, and is a beautiful island paradise, still, most tourists haven’t even heard about it let alone taken the slightly inconvenient journey to get here. There also wasn’t much on the internet that I could find when researching for my trip there. So here is a summary of what I found out on the way.

The Islas San Bernardo is a group of ten coral islands nestled in the Gulf of Morrosquillo in the Caribbean Sea, roughly 80 km (50 miles) south of Cartagena. The archipelago forms part of the Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo National Park, highlighting the importance of its marine and coral ecosystems. Of the 10 islands, only a few are accessible for visitors​.

The islands

Isla Tintipan

The largest and most beautiful San Bernardo island. It’s made up of mangroves and secluded white-sand beaches and has great coral reefs for snorkeling. I recommend staying here.

Isla Mucura

The most famous island, known for its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. Hotels privatize 80% of the island. Pick your accommodation cautiously. Punta Faro is the most upscale hotel in the archipelago.

Santa Cruz de Islote

This island stands out as one of the most densely populated islands on earth, providing a fascinating glimpse into the local community’s way of life. It is only 200 meters long and 120 meters wide. It’s hard to tell exactly how many residents there are, some say around 1200, but that’s likely to be an overestimation (a census from the mid-2010s reported the population to be 492). However, there are 97 to 115 homes with 45 permanent families in this tiny place. The whole island is concrete, and every square centimeter is used. Crazy to imagine that people actually live here. It’s interesting but…seeing it from the boat or stopping here for max half an hour is probably enough. Locals are friendly and sell popsicles to the boats that briefly stop to pick up or drop off passengers, but there isn’t much more to do here.

Isla Palma

It’s the nearest island to Rincon del Mar. The island is divided into 2 hotels. You can party here.

What to do here

For those seeking a more active adventure, the island offers kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing trips. Visitors can also take a boat tour of the archipelago, which includes stops at other beautiful islands in the area.

One of the most unique experiences on Isla San Bernardo is the opportunity to swim in a bioluminescent lagoon. At night, the water in the lagoon glows blue-green, creating a magical and otherworldly experience.

Note on Casa en el agua

Let’s talk a little bit about Casa en el agua, the “eco hostel on an island”. This is probably the only better known place in the archipelago among international travelers (well they do have a flashy website in English after all). I was even considering staying here because it was so hard to find anything else about the rest of the islands. Well, we did stop there on the way to and from Cartagena with the speedboat to pick up some people, and my already formulated opinion that I was very smart not to stay here further solidified when I saw the place in real life. It is really not my kind of place. Which doesn’t mean at all that it’s a bad place, or that you couldn’t have fun here.

Just don’t stay there because you feel like  there are no other options – there are! It is very feasible to get to other islands on the archipelago and you will have enough things to do and you can organize your own trip. However, the islands have a very different feel. They are calm, with few people who generally keep to themselves and relax and enjoy nature all day. It’s very unlikely you’ll get your party fix there, so if company is rather what you’re looking for, go for Casa en el agua for sure!

How to get there

From Cartagena | From Cartagena directly, you embark on a roughly two-hour boat journey from the Muelle de la Bodeguita dock. These boats typically set sail between 8 and 10 am. Keep in mind, the ride can be choppy, and there are luggage weight restrictions to watch out for. Upon arrival at the docks of your chosen island, further arrangements may be necessary to reach your accommodation, such as a short walk or an additional boat hire. Return trips to Cartagena usually commence around noon from Isla Múcura’s public pier​ as the first stop. When I traveled to Isla Tintipan there was essentially one speedboat operator running, Tranq it Easy. There is only one daily departure, so it’s very important to book the boat trip with them (or other operators if available), because hotels don’t guarantee your getting there – I heard about people who had to miss a night on the islands because the boat was full. The price is about 300k COP, it isn’t cheap (compared to Colombian prices), but it’s worth it. You can very easily book this trip online.

From Tolú | It is a cheaper but much longer journey. It might make a lot of sense to stay in the area of Rincon del Mar once you travel that far south, another hidden gem of tranquil seaside living in Colombia. There is a bus from Cartagena to Tolú (about 5 hours 20 min), and there is only one boat per day (40 min) that leaves from Tolú to the islands at 8:30 (so you’d need to spend the night in Tolú).

Tip | You can only pay by cash on the islands (except a few hotels). The sea is rough from December to April.

Everything to know about hot air balloons in Cappadocia

Overview

Cappadocia, with its surreal landscapes and unique rock formations, is a prime destination for hot air ballooning. Floating over the fairy chimneys, valleys, and ancient cave dwellings at sunrise is an unforgettable experience. Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your hot air balloon adventure in Cappadocia.

Why Choose Cappadocia for Hot Air Ballooning?

Cappadocia is renowned for its stunning geological formations, known as fairy chimneys, and its historical cave dwellings and churches. The region’s unique landscape is best appreciated from the sky, where you can see the full expanse of its beauty. The stable weather conditions also make it one of the best places in the world for hot air ballooning, with flights operating nearly every day of the year.

Best Time to Go

The ideal time for hot air ballooning in Cappadocia is during the late spring (April to June) and early autumn (September to October). During these months, the weather is mild and stable, which ensures more consistent flight conditions. Summer (June to August) is also popular due to the clear skies and warm temperatures, but it can be crowded and more expensive. Winter flights are less frequent due to weather conditions, but if you catch a good day, the snow-covered landscape is breathtaking

Booking Your Flight

It’s crucial to book your hot air balloon ride in advance, especially if you plan to visit during the peak seasons. Many companies offer online booking, allowing you to secure your spot well before your trip. Make sure to choose a reputable operator (or at least one with many credible reviews). Balloon rides are generally safe, but accidents have happened before. Prices typically range from $150 to $250 per person, depending on the season and the duration of the flight. I booked with Voyager Balloons and decided not to skimp on the price because of security concerns, and because this is a once in a lifetime activity so I wanted to make sure all everything goes smoothly and we are not (so) cramped in the balloon.

Trusted companies

These companies are all well-known and trusted by many thousand people each year:
Voyager Balloons: praised for its friendly and knowledgeable staff. They offer a great balance between quality and price, with options for standard, deluxe, and private flights. This is the one I chose, with the smaller basket size for an extra fee, and I was very happy with the whole experience:)
Discovery Balloons: one of the most popular and reputable hot air balloon company in Cappadocia, known for offering safe and scenic flights with experienced pilots. They provide an intimate and memorable experience, featuring small group sizes and stunning views of the region’s unique landscapes.
Royal Balloon: one of the most prestigious companies in Cappadocia. They are known for their luxurious experiences, offering smaller baskets with fewer passengers for a more personalized flight. They also include a gourmet breakfast before the flight and a champagne toast upon landing.
Turkiye Balloons: a great choice for those looking for an affordable yet quality experience. They offer standard and deluxe flights, and are known for their professional pilots and well-maintained equipment.
Güvercin Balloons: highly regarded for its excellent customer service and professional pilots. They offer a variety of flight options, including standard, comfort, and private flights. The company focuses on safety and ensuring each passenger has a great view during the flight.

Tips for Choosing a Company

– Book in Advance: Hot air balloon rides in Cappadocia are extremely popular, so it’s wise to book your flight several weeks in advance, especially during peak season.
– Check Reviews: Reading recent reviews can give you a good sense of what to expect from each company.
– Consider Group Size: Smaller groups often offer a more intimate experience, but they can be more expensive.
– Flight Duration: Standard flights are typically 60 minutes, but some companies offer longer flights, up to 90 minutes, for those who want more time in the air.

The flights

What to Expect on the Day of Your Flight

Hot air balloon rides in Cappadocia start early in the morning, often around 4:30 to 5:30 AM. This timing allows you to witness the spectacular sunrise from the sky. Before going to the field, these companies usually gather people for a briefing and a coffee in a building. When everyone is there, they reassign people to smaller groups that will go to the same balloon in a car. Upon arrival at the launch site, you will receive a safety briefing and instructions from your pilot. You’ll also get to see the balloons being inflated, which is a fascinating sight in itself. The actual flight time is usually around 60 to 90 minutes, depending on weather conditions. During the flight, you’ll soar over the valleys, fairy chimneys, and ancient rock formations, offering countless photo opportunities. After landing, most companies offer a traditional champagne toast and a certificate of flight. It’s a perfect way to celebrate the experience and meet fellow travelers.

Safety Considerations

Safety is a top priority for hot air balloon operators in Cappadocia. All flights are weather-dependent and will be canceled if conditions are not suitable. Make sure to choose a licensed and reputable company to ensure the highest safety standards are met. Your pilot should be experienced and well-trained, capable of handling any situation that may arise.

Insider Tips

– Plan your balloon ride for the first morning of your stay in Cappadocia. This way, if the flight is canceled due to weather, you have the flexibility to reschedule for another day.
– Dress in layers, as the early morning can be chilly, but it will warm up as the sun rises. Comfortable, flat shoes are essential, as you need to climb into the basket, stand for the duration of the flight and walk on uneven ground during landing.
– Bring a small bottle of water to stay hydrated, especially if you’re visiting in the warmer months.
– Only bring essentials with you, as space in the balloon basket is limited.

Getting there

How Much Time You Need

To fully experience Cappadocia, plan for at least 3 to 4 days. You will need at least 2 early mornings to see the balloons from the ground and to ride one. 4 days will give you enough time to explore the famous fairy chimneys, visit underground cities, hike through beautiful valleys, and enjoy a hot air balloon ride at sunrise. If you’re interested in a more leisurely pace, consider extending your stay to a week to immerse yourself in the local culture and scenery.

How to Get There

The most convenient way to reach Cappadocia is by flying into either Kayseri Airport (ASR) or Nevşehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV). Both airports offer regular flights from Istanbul and other major Turkish cities. From the airport, you can take a shuttle bus, rent a car, or arrange a private transfer to your accommodation. Alternatively, if you prefer a scenic route, you can take a bus or drive from Istanbul, which takes approximately 8-10 hours.

How to Find Cheap Accommodation in Norway

Overview

Norway, with its stunning fjords, majestic mountains, and arctic landscapes is a dream destination that is also famously expensive. It is possible to visit Norway on a reasonable budget if you keep the trip relatively short and really, really plan in advance. The good news is that you can’t really make mistakes – all accommodation in Norway (and the Nordics in general) is very clean and safe, even the most basic shelters. This is not a country for dodgy tourist scams, but you can easily miss these cheap(er) finds, as they will sell out first, especially in “big hit” areas like the fjords or Lofoten islands. However, with a bit of planning and savvy searching, you can discover great budget-friendly places to stay without sacrificing comfort or convenience. Here are some tried-and-true tips for finding cheap accommodation in Norway.

Top “tricks”

  • 1   Book in advance
  • 2   Stay in hostels
  • 3   Wild camp
  • 4   Stay in camping rooms and cabins
  • 5   Try Airbnb and Short-Term Rentals
  • 6   Consider couchsurfing
  • 7   Night trains
  • 8   The usual tricks (that don’t work!)
  • +1   Public huts and cabins (for hikers)

1 Book in Advance

This is the no 1 golden rule of Norway. Not exactly my travel style, but believe me when I say it is crucial – either book (way) in advance or accept that your Norwegian trip will push you into financial ruin. The longer you can plan in advance, the better, I would say 1 month before at least if you’re traveling in peak season. There aren’t so many options in Norway and not only do they simply sell out (and of course, the cheaper ones do first), but the remaining ones will also raise their price.

2 Stay in Hostels, wherever you can

Norway has a range of hostels in bigger cities, and most of them are pretty high quality, like almost any accommodation in the Nordics. The problem with hostels is that they are simply not available for most of your itinerary outside of cities. Some of the best hostels are:

Anker Hostel, Oslo: A large, central, budget-friendly option with easy access to public transport.
K7 Hotel, Oslo: A smaller hostel plus hotel, with a lovely cafe downstairs. It is very central, about 5 min walk from the train station.
Bergen Hostel Montana, Bergen: Offers breathtaking views and a cozy atmosphere.
Tromsø Activities Hostel, Tromsø: Great for those looking to explore the Arctic Circle without breaking the bank.

3 Wild camp

Norway is a camper’s paradise, and the country’s “Right to Roam” law allows you to camp almost anywhere in the countryside for free, as long as you follow certain guidelines. Of course wild camping isn’t for everyone. Even if it is for you, it’s probably smart to combine wild camping with campsites for a bit more comfort. Campsites are the cheapest (paid) option, with a tent night costing between 15-45 €.

4 Stay in rooms or cabins at a camping

I consider this the second best tip. The best cheap accommodation in Norway is often a room or a cabin (“hytter”) in a camping. I was very (positively) surprised by the quality of all the campsites we have stayed at. They were clean, convenient, well-equipped and always in unbelievable scenic settings. Prices were between 40-120€. The best campsites I’ve stayed at:

Lofoten Beach Camp, Ramberg: Absolutely stunning! The best camping I’ve ever stayed at. It’s beautiful and new, with a ton of amenities (like surf classes). The location is also unbelievable, right at the white sand beach of Ramberg.
Gudvangen camping, Gudvangen: walking distance from the ferry station. Cabins are basic but it’s a perfect place to spend the night after arriving late with the ferry. Start the next day with a hike and take the direct bus to Voss (or back to Flåm).
Flåm Camping and Cabins, Flåm: It is very popular (and basically the only budget option in the area), so book very early! There are dorms as well as rooms and cabins.
Andalsnes Camping & Motell, Åndalsnes: A beautiful setting next to the river. Some of the rooms have en suite bathrooms. It is far from the station and the center, but doable without a car.

5 Try Airbnb and Short-Term Rentals

Airbnb and other short-term rental platforms are often your best bet when prices surge. Renting an entire apartment is very expensive, but a room only can be a good solution. I’ve booked rooms in many Airbnbs in Norway and always found clean spaces, friendly hosts and good amenities. It’s also a great way to talk to locals, which otherwise would be pretty hard to do as a tourist (plus in my opinion Norwegians are pretty shy). This is also one of the destinations where it really counts if you can have your own kitchen to prepare a meal, especially if you’re tired of those store sandwiches and wraps!

6 Consider Couchsurfing

I am personally not a fan of couchsurfing, simply because I find the idea very uncomfortable to sleep on a stranger’s sofa, but if there is one region I would consider this it would definitely be the Nordics, and especially Norway.

7 Night trains

Night trains are a smart way to trick the system (provided that you are going somewhere, and preferably somewhere far, of course…). Usually they are pretty expensive, but if you buy an Interrail or Eurail pass for Norway then it’s much cheaper, and you could end up saving money compared to a hotel (this is how I spent 2 full days in Bergen with only one hotel night). Most overnight trains have double sleeping cabins which you can book for two or alone – the price is the same either way because you have to reserve the entire cabin, so it’s worth to go with a friend. A sleeper cabin with Interrail costs about 100€ for the night. There are sadly no showers on the train or at the station (in Bergen and Oslo you can shower in partner hotels near the station for a fee of around 25€. This sometimes contains breakfast, sometimes only a shower and is insultingly expensive in my opinion). There are lockers in all train stations where you can board a night train. The best website to book a sleeper cabin (or a seat reservation once you have Interrail) is Entur.

8 The usual tricks (that don’t work!)

Travel Off-Peak: You can somewhat consider visiting Norway during the off-peak seasons (spring and autumn), but it won’t help you much. Norway is always expensive. The big difference is that outside of peak season you have better chances to book the cheaper accommodations before everyone else does.

Opt for Less Touristy Areas: Staying outside of the main tourist hubs like Oslo, Bergen, and Tromsø also won’t really help you. Norway is about nature, and rural accommodation is often more expensive than a city one (plus there are likely no hostels around).

+1 Public huts and cabins (for hikers)

In Norway, public huts and cabins are a well-established and integral part of the country’s outdoor culture. “Friluftsliv”, the Norwegian concept of outdoor life and nature appreciation, is deeply ingrained in the use of these huts and cabins. They provide a means for people to experience nature sustainably and responsibly. The Norwegian Trekking Association (Den Norske Turistforening or DNT) manages around 550 cabins across Norway. Huts are strategically placed along popular hiking routes, in national parks, and in remote wilderness areas and are designed to be within a day’s hike of one another (so they are perfect to plan multi-day treks). In addition to DNT huts, there are many cabins managed by local municipalities, private organizations, and even individuals.

DNT huts range from fully staffed lodges to self-service and no-service cabins:
– Staffed Lodges (Betjente Hytter): Offer meals, private rooms, and additional amenities. These are often located in more accessible areas.
– Self-Service Cabins (Selvbetjente Hytter): Equipped with a kitchen, food supplies, and dormitory-style accommodations. Hikers need to prepare their own meals.
– No-Service Cabins (Ubetjente Hytter): Basic shelters with no food supplies. Hikers must bring all their own provisions.

While some DNT huts are open to everyone, for most you need to become a DNT member, which also provides various benefits, such as reduced accommodation rates and access (or keys) to locked self-service and no-service huts. Some huts, especially the staffed ones, require reservations in advance, particularly during peak season. For others, you need to obtain a key from the association before arriving (see here how to do it). Accommodation fees vary depending on the type of hut and membership status. Staffed lodges are more expensive compared to self-service or no-service huts. See a detailed description of the whole hut system and its etiquette here.

How to get there and around

By car

You can drive into Norway from Sweden, Finland, or Russia. The road network is well-developed and offers scenic routes. Renting a car or a van is a popular option for exploring Norway, especially in the Lofoten islands. Norway has strict traffic regulations, and the terrain can be challenging with narrow roads and fjord crossings. Winter driving requires special preparation, especially in the far north, and I would really only recommend it if you are a very very good driver (imagine driving at night in a snowstorm on a road that’s basically a block of ice, with extra bright headlights on for the reindeer…). Many Norwegian roads have tolls. Electronic toll collection (AutoPASS) is common, and rental cars often come equipped with toll tags.

By plane

Most international travelers arrive in Norway by air. Oslo Airport (Gardermoen) is the main international gateway, but there are also international airports in Bergen, Stavanger, Trondheim, and other cities. Due to the large distances, Norway has a dense network of domestic airports, making air travel a convenient option for covering large distances quickly. Airlines like SAS, Norwegian, and Widerøe operate frequent flights between major cities and remote locations. Consider checking Norwegian’s route map when trip planning.

By train

There are train services from Stockholm and Gothenburg to Oslo, operated by SJ (Swedish Railways). You can also travel by train from Copenhagen to Oslo, with a ferry connection between Copenhagen and Oslo operated by DFDS Seaways. Domestic train services are operated by several companies, primarily Vy, Flytoget, SJ Norge and Go-Ahead Nordic. The best website to book train tickets in Norway is Entur.

By ferry

Ferries operate between Copenhagen, Frederikshavn, and Hirtshals in Denmark to several Norwegian ports including Oslo, Kristiansand, and Larvik. Also between Kiel, Germany, and Oslo. You can also take your car on ferries from Denmark or Germany. Within the country, the coastline and fjords are well-served by ferries. Apart from the famous(ly expensive) Hurtigruten coastal ferry (mostly for tourists), most places are served by local ferries that are just as scenic. Consider booking these instead to save money (some are even free if you don’t have a car!)

Tip | Norway is not part of the EU, but part of the Schengen Area, so a Schengen visa is required for travelers from certain countries.

Best hiking trails in Cappadocia, Turkey

Overview

There is probably no need to introduce Cappadocia – if you’re interested in Turkey you’ve probably seen pictures of the impossible pink stone formations or the balloons at sunrise. Cappadocia Valley is located in Central Anatolia, Turkey, in a region renowned for its geological formations, the “fairy chimneys” – tall, cone-shaped rock formations that have been sculpted by volcanic activity and erosion over millions of years. These formations, along with extensive networks of ancient cave dwellings and rock-cut churches, make Cappadocia a fascinating destination in Turkey.

Cappadocia is hardly a hidden gem. There are numerous daily flights from Istanbul (and all over Turkey) just to see the valley and go on a hot air balloon ride (so the local vendors hope). Göreme is overflowing with tourists and most of the hotels advertise themselves as “the one” having that unique view of the balloons at sunrise. More on that later, but you get the picture. Balloon riding is a herd activity, and the tourist hotspots are packed to the brim. But! and this is a big one, if you are willing to take just a step away from these hotspots you can still easily have a personal and serene experience in Cappadocia Valley. One of the best ways to do that is to go hiking among these beautiful rocks, that most tourists only glimpse from above or afar. After about 5 minutes of hiking you will probably be alone. Not only that but you can actually discover hidden case temples and beautiful viewpoints that are not on the map, and the whole hike will feel like true exploration. It is astonishing to me that so many people make the journey to Cappadocia and don’t even have half a day to spare for walking a bit – maybe they don’t know what’s out there!

Unique things to see in Cappadocia Valley

Route options

Hike 1
Rose valley + Red valley hike

Red valley | loop, 2.5km, 1h, easy
Rose valley | loop, 3km, 1h30min, easy
Meskendir valley | loop, 3km, 1h20min, easy

You have 3 options as a starting point for this hike. You can walk from Göreme or Cavusin to start the Rose valley hike (pink route), or if you have a car you can start from the parking lot near Kaya camping and add an additional hike through the Meskendir valley (turquoise route). Either way, the Red Valley hike (blue route) is an optional add on. You can decide if you want to continue to this loop from Rose valley. I recommend you do Rose + Red valley if you can, and try to time it so that you reach one of the viewpoints near sunset. There are many people who come by bus or car just to see the sunset, so if you’re feeling lazy this is also an option (there is a parking lot at the end of the road that leads to Red valley, you can see it in the map below). Alternatively, you could enjoy the same route and scenery on horseback. We’ve seen a few groups passing by on horses and it looked like a fun activity.

Hike 2
Pigeon valley + Uchisar + Love valley hike

Pigeon valley | one way, 1.5km, 50min, easy
Uchisar | loop, 1.5km, 1h, easy
Love valley | one way, 5km, 2h10min, easy
Back to Göreme | one way, 2.5km, 40min, easy

This hike is a huge loop from Göreme and takes around 5-7 hours, depending on your pace and how much time you spend at each stop. It is worth the effort though, leading you through some of Cappadocia’s most iconic landscapes plus Uchisar castle, a main sight. The trail is moderately difficult, with some steep sections, particularly when descending into Love Valley. You can either hike the whole route, or take a take a cab to shorten a part of it. It is a good idea to get a ride to the north trailhead of the Love valley hike, as walking on the main road is not very enjoyable. Or with a transport to Uchisar, it would be enough to venture a little bit into either or both valleys if you don’t feel like hiking the whole loop.

Hike 1: Rose valley and Red valley (detailed)

Starting point

There are 3 options to choose as starting point, depending on where you stay, and if you have a rental car. If you have rented a car, you can add Meskendir valley to your hike, which is a beautiful narrow canyon that heads arrow-like into the more colorful canyons. This is a one-way trail and adds 3pm to your total hike. You can park the car in a parking near Kaya camping. If arriving from Göreme you can either walk or get a lift to Rose valley trailhead 1 or 2. Probably a taxi is a good idea, as most of this walk would involve following the main road, which is not the most enjoyable way to spend your time.

Arriving from Cavusin is the best option in my opinion (not only because it’s the best place to stay and away from the crowds, but) because you can wander a bit around Cavusin before your hike and discover the view from Cavusin hill, and a traditional cave house furnished as it was used up until the 60s.

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Rose Valley lower section

If coming from Meskendir Valley or Göreme, you’ll enter the Rose valley loop at the same point (Rose valley trailhead 2). At the G201 marker, turn right to enter Rose Valley, which is divided into two sections: Güllüdere I and Güllüdere II. The trail markers for these valleys are labeled G1, G2, or G12. Follow the path as it leads into the heart of Rose Valley. After about 500 meters, you will pass Anna Johachim Church, another fascinating rock-carved church. Continue straight at the G203 trail marker, ignoring the left turn.

The path soon brings you to the remarkable Kolonlu (Direkli) Church, known for its columns and ancient frescoes. Take your time to explore this unique structure before continuing on the trail. Shortly thereafter, at trail marker G1202, take the smaller path that passes to the left-hand side. This path quickly rises, offering some fantastic viewpoints over Red Valley before bending left. Follow the signs at trail markers G1205 and G1206 towards Güllüdere I-II Cikisi, leading you to Panorama Point. This is a great spot to rest and enjoy some refreshments while taking in the stunning panoramic views of the valleys.

Red Valley

From Panorama Point, you can decide if you want to make your way down into Red Valley (Kızılçukur Vadisi). If so, follow trail marker K11. Keep left at trail marker K10, soon passing Uzumlu Church and a nearby café. Instead of following the main Red Valley path down the valley, stay on the high ground to maintain the best views.

When you reach trail marker K7C, instead of going left as suggested, turn right and take the smaller path that crosses the valley and climbs up the other side. This route leads you to a fantastic viewpoint marked Demir Merdiven on Google Maps. Take a moment to enjoy the views before continuing on a path that gradually arcs to the right, bringing you back to the G1202 marker.

Rose valley upper section

Re-join your earlier path in Rose Valley and head towards Hacli Church, noted for its beautiful frescoes. From there, gain the ridge and follow the path northwest. The path will eventually bring you to a sign directing you down a steep slope. Avoid this route and instead head left, following the ridge’s contours as it gently descends back into Meskendir Valley.

Finish

Once back in Meskendir Valley (at Rose valley trailhead 1), turn left and walk the three kilometers back to the layby where you started (either to Rose valley trailhead 2, or all the way back to Göreme, Cavusin, or the parking lot). The final stretch of your hike is a great time to reflect on the varied landscapes, historical sites, and breathtaking vistas you have encountered throughout the day.

Hike 2: Pigeon valley + Love valley (detailed)

Pigeon valley

Begin your hike at Trail Marker G3 on Uzun Dere Road, located in the southeast of Göreme. The journey kicks off with following the signs that lead you up Pigeon Valley (Güvercinlik Vadisi). The initial part of the hike is quite engaging as you pass through a cute café and ascend a set of steps. As you make your way, the valley floor gradually rises and broadens, giving you a sense of the lush surroundings.

Once on the path, you’ll notice it bends to the right, going through a narrow section of the canyon. This part of the trail is especially nice with all the green vegetation and unique rock formations. As you navigate through the tightest part of the canyon, you’ll arrive at the Calgary Tea Garden. This spot is perfect for a short break where you can enjoy a cup of tea the views of the valley below.

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Uchisar

Continuing your ascent, the path climbs out of Pigeon Valley and merges onto the Göreme-Uçhisar road. Turning left on this road, you’ll head towards the imposing structure of Uchisar Castle, which will be visible from a distance, serving as a natural guide. The entrance to the castle is on its south side. Uchisar Castle, carved from a massive rock, is pretty impressive with its tunnels and rooms.

After exploring Uchisar Castle, head back towards the Love Valley (Bağlıdere Vadisi) trailhead, which is located about 100 meters past where you exited Pigeon Valley on the main road towards Göreme. The path to Love Valley begins to the left of the Ozler Centre. As you approach marker B6, take the right fork and follow the sign pointing to Love Valley.

Love valley

Descending into Love Valley from marker sign B5, you’ll encounter a steep path that requires careful footing. The trail then turns right, guiding you along the valley floor. The canyon walls of Love Valley are enclosing, making navigation straightforward, although you might need to backtrack occasionally to navigate around a local farm or follow a dried-up riverbed.

As you continue, you’ll eventually arrive at the iconic phallic rock formations that make Love Valley famous. This area offers an otherworldly landscape, perfect for photography and quiet reflection. Here, you can stop again for tea at Keres Cafe before continuing your hike.

Finish

To return to Göreme, follow the path as it bends to the right and the valley widens, eventually meeting the main road. Turning right onto the main road, you’ll follow it back into Göreme, completing your hike. This final stretch is not very enjoyable, so it might be better to catch a taxi back to Göreme.

Tips

– Navigating the paths in the Red and Rose Valleys can be challenging due to the overwhelming number of signs. Trail markers often point in unclear directions, red scribbles on walls can indicate both left and right turns, and many signs are broken, buried, or crossed out. Don’t pay too much attention to them.

– Also don’t worry too much about being on the wrong path. The valleys are relatively small, and you can’t go too far off track, especially with Google Maps. Getting lost and found again is part of the hiking experience in Cappadocia.

– You could combine the Rose and Red Valley loops with watching the hot air balloons at sunrise, but you’ll need to be on the paths early to catch this sight (probably better to watch from the terrace of your hotel).

– It can be very hot with little shade available. Wear sun protection and a hat and definitely bring water with you! Some cafes along the trails may be open, but not all.