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Best things to do in Malta & Gozo

Overview

After all the beautiful, lush Mediterranean islands and coasts, to be honest, it is a bit tough to love Malta at first sight. It all depends on when you visit. Going for a classic summer beach holiday? Rather not. Malta is great for a late autumn or early winter break from the stubbornly graying European mainland.

You won’t find nature bliss here – no wild forests or remote sandy coves – but Malta is nevertheless walkable, even hikeable, if you look in the right places. What really sets Malta and its little sister Gozo apart is their cultural richness: beautiful, honey-colored historical cities, centuries of layered history, and a delicious mix of North African, Arabic, and Italian influences that you’ll feel with every step and taste with every bite. And of course, let’s not forget those neon-blue lagoons, where the clarity of the water seems almost unreal.

So if you’re craving UNESCO World Heritage sites, quirky Maltese traditions, dramatic coastline walks, and that dose of unexpected sunshine (even in November!), Malta and Gozo might just surprise you. They definitely did for me.

What to do

  • 1   Visit Valletta
  • 2   Wander through Mdina
  • 3   Explore Rabat and St Paul’s Catacombs
  • 4   Discover Marsaxlokk fishing village
  • 5   Swim at the Blue Lagoon on Comino
  • 6   Explore Gozo

1 Visit Valletta

Valletta stands among the world’s most significant historical cities and holds the distinction of being Europe’s very first purpose-built capital. Its rich heritage and baroque charm have earned the entire city UNESCO World Heritage status. Despite being one of Europe’s tiniest capitals, Valletta truly packs a punch – offering impressive sights and atmosphere that make it perfect for a memorable weekend getaway.

St John’s Co-Cathedral: A Valletta Must-See

From the outside, St John’s Co-Cathedral may appear understated, but step inside and you’ll never forget its lavish interior. Built by the Knights of St. John in the 16th century, this cathedral is truly one of the most stunning in Europe – featuring beautiful marble floors, rich gold details, masterpieces of artwork ( including Caravaggio’s famous Beheading of St. John the Baptist), and dramatic ceiling murals. The entrance fee is €15, and guided walking tours of the city often include a visit to the cathedral. Beware that because the ornate marble floor is very delicate, high heels are not permitted, and all visitors should dress modestly out of respect. Learn more about St John’s Co-Cathedral before you go.

Upper & Lower Barracca Gardens

Both gardens are wonderful spots to unwind. The Upper Gardens offer impressive views, high above the Grand Harbour with sights over the historic ‘Three Cities’: Birgu (Vittoriosa), Senglea, and Cospicua. For just €1, you can take the Barrakka Lift down to the Lower Gardens. Don’t miss the noon tradition – each day, military officials fire cannons (yes, really) in a centuries-old ceremony to honor Malta’s naval history and mark the time.

Grandmaster’s Palace

Dating back to 1571, the Grandmaster’s Palace is one of Valletta’s most significant historic landmarks and was among the first buildings constructed in the city. Over the centuries, it has served as the seat of power for the Knights of St. John, the British governor, and now the Maltese president. Marvel at its majestic courtyard, opulent decor, galleries of art, frescoes, and historic armor collections. Entrance is €6, and it’s absolutely worth a visit!

2 Wander through Mdina

Known as the Silent City, Mdina is one of Malta’s most atmospheric destinations. This ancient walled town sits on a hill, its honey-colored streets winding through centuries of stories, secrets, and so much charm.

Once the island’s proud capital, Mdina today is a peaceful town that’s a moment of calm after Valletta and crowded beaches. It feels relaxing and familiar (you might recognise it as King’s Landing in Game of Thrones!). With only a few hundred residents and strict rules limiting car access, the quiet here is almost tangible. Even better in the evening, after the day-trippers have gone. The old-fashioned lamps are turned on and the city gets even quieter.

Mdina has a lot to offer: an endless palette of beige, hidden cafés, gothic archways, grand stone gates, stately palazzos, and views over the countryside from the city walls. Walk around to soak it in, and try to not miss the three most impressive sights (see below).

St. Paul’s Cathedral

Right in the heart of town, this magnificent baroque cathedral is as grand and beautiful as you’d expect – don’t miss the painted ceiling or the intricate marble-work inside. Get your ticket here.

Palazzo Falson

One of the oldest buildings in Mdina and now a cozy museum. It just feels lived in, full of art, antiques, and personal collections. Check out the beautiful courtyard, too. The entry ticket is 12€, get it here.

Mdina Dungeons

Tucked under the city, these dungeons are a little creepy (in a good way) and bring Malta’s intriguing past to life. It’s fascinating, especially if you love a bit of dark history.

3 Explore Rabat and St Paul’s Catacombs

Rabat has a very interesting past. This town was once famous for protecting itself against pirate raids. There’s so much history in its quiet streets, and probably the most interesting is the Catacombs.

St Paul’s Catacombs are an extensive complex of interconnected Roman-era underground burial sites. They provide a fascinating glimpse into early Christianity in Malta. The catacombs feature narrow passageways and chambers, and exploring them gives an insightful perspective on the way early Maltese Christians lived and died. Entry is €5 and it feels a little like entering another world.

4 Discover Marsaxlokk Fishing Village

Marsaxlokk is a traditional fishing village famous for its colorful luzzu boats and bustling Sunday market. Spend a morning wandering around the harbor, sampling fresh seafood at one of the local restaurants, and soaking up the relaxed seaside vibe. The nearby St. Peter’s Pool is also a great spot for a refreshing dip.

Dive at St Peter’s Pool

St Peter’s Pool is a natural swimming pool located near Marsaxlokk, famous for its crystal-clear waters and stunning rock formations. It’s a popular spot for diving and cliff jumping, with plenty of flat rocks perfect for sunbathing. The turquoise water makes it a top location for snorkeling as well. Keep in mind that access involves a bit of a walk, but the stunning coastal scenery makes it worthwhile.

5 Visit Comino island

Malta consists of three main islands, with Comino being the smallest and most secluded. Between Malta and Gozo, Comino feels like an escape into nature. Its name comes from the cumin plant, which you’ll spot blooming across the island alongside other wildflowers and fragrant herbs. With no real roads and very few inhabitants, Comino is perfect for hiking and getting off the beaten path. You can get here by ferry (the most popular boat leaves from the harbor at Marfa Bay, takes 10 minutes and costs 13 EUR return), or on the Blue Lagoon boat tour via a smaller boat (which may be a bit more expensive, but you’ll have the boat to enter the water from, and you also stop to snorkel at the Santa Maria caves).
See below the top 3 things to do here.

Swim at the Blue Lagoon on Comino

Comino’s Blue Lagoon is perhaps Malta’s most iconic natural attraction. With crystal-clear turquoise waters surrounded by rugged cliffs, it’s perfect for swimming, snorkeling, or simply relaxing. Be sure to arrive early, as it gets busy in the summer. You can also take a boat tour to the nearby sea caves, adding to the adventure of visiting Comino and the Blue Lagoon.

Santa Maria Caves 

The Santa Maria Caves are especially popular for snorkeling, thanks to the abundance of marine life in the area. Most Comino-Gozo boats stop here,passing through a dramatic cave tunnel from Santa Maria Bay. The water is impossibly blue, so even if you stay on the boat it’s nice to see.

6 Explore Gozo

No trip to Malta is complete without exploring its sister island, Gozo. Known for its more rural charm and slower pace of life, Gozo is home to picturesque villages, lush valleys, and fascinating sites like the Citadel in Victoria. Spend a day exploring the island’s natural beauty, including the impressive Wied il-Mielaħ Window, and make sure to visit the Ggantija Temples – some of the oldest freestanding structures in the world.

How much time you need

1-2 Days | If you’re short on time, you can still see some highlights of Malta. Spend a day exploring Valletta, visiting St John’s Co-Cathedral, and enjoying the views from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. On the second day, head to Mdina to experience its medieval charm before continuing to the Marsaxlokk fishing village for a glimpse of traditional Maltese life.

3-4 Days | With a few more days, you can include additional experiences like a day trip to Gozo, diving at St Peter’s Pool, and visiting St Paul’s Catacombs. You could also add a visit to Popeye Village for some light-hearted fun or enjoy a boat ride to the Blue Lagoon at Comino, famous for its crystal-clear waters.

5-7 Days | A week in Malta lets you see the island in-depth without feeling rushed. In addition to the above, you’ll have time to explore more off-the-beaten-path locations, enjoy the local beaches, or even take a day to relax in Mellieha Bay. This also leaves room to visit more historical sites, like Fort St Elmo, and to take leisurely walks through the streets of Valletta or the serene landscapes of Gozo.

How to get there

By Car | If you prefer the flexibility of driving, Malta is easily accessible by car once you’re on the island. Renting a car gives you the freedom to explore everything, from the bustling streets of Valletta to the quieter, rural charms of Gozo at your own pace. It’s an excellent option for those wanting to visit the more remote areas, like the Blue Lagoon or St. Peter’s Pool. 

By Plane | The easiest way to get to Malta is by flying into Malta International Airport (MLA), the island’s only airport, located just outside the capital, Valletta. The airport is well connected to major European cities with frequent international flights. From the airport, you can take a bus, taxi, or rent a car to reach your accommodation. 

By Ferry | For those already in Southern Europe, Malta is accessible by ferry from Sicily. The journey from Pozzallo or Catania to Malta takes around 1.5 to 4 hours, depending on the ferry service. The ferry arrives at the Grand Harbour in Valletta, making it a scenic way to arrive on the island. This is a particularly good option if you’re planning a multi-country trip that includes Italy. 

How to get around

Getting around Malta and Gozo is refreshingly simple, especially for solo travelers. In Valletta, Mdina, and most historic cities, you can explore nearly everything on foot – are all within easy walking distance. For attractions or beaches that are further out, like Golden Bay or the Blue Grotto, your best bet is to take the local bus. The public transport network is affordable, reliable, and connects most towns, but do allow a little extra time, especially during busy hours. Traffic jams can get quite big.

When you need more flexibility or want to discover off-the-beaten-path places, you can use taxis and ride-hailing apps like Bolt. For full freedom to explore Malta and Gozo’s hidden coves and countryside at your own pace, renting a car is of course the best option. Driving is straightforward (just remember, it’s on the left!), and you’ll have access to remote beaches, coastal trails, and places local buses rarely reach.

Where to stay

Which part of the island to stay on? It depends on the kind of trip you want.

Valletta | Perfect if you’re after that vibrant city vibe! Staying in the capital means you’re surrounded by Maltese culture, buzzing bars, and plenty of great restaurants. Just keep in mind, accommodation in Valletta tends to be on the pricier side. See all hotels in Valletta.

Sliema | If you’re watching your budget or love to shop, Sliema is a great choice. It’s also super convenient, with easy ferry access to Valletta (a quick 15-minute ride). Plus, Sliema has plenty of rocky beaches for sunbathing and sea swims. See all hotels in Sliema.

Saint Julian’s | Known for its lively nightlife and foodie scene, this is the best spot if you’re keen to check out Malta’s best bars, clubs, and a huge variety of restaurants. See all hotels in Saint Julian’s.

Birgu (Vittoriosa) / L-Isla (Senglea) | For a quieter, more authentic Maltese experience, stay in one of the historic ‘Three Cities.’ Birgu and L-Isla offer charming new boutique hotels, cozy local restaurants, and a laid-back atmosphere. The new ferry link from Valletta is handy, but if you’re up for an adventure, taking a traditional boat across the harbor is a real highlight! See all hotels in Birgu.

Best hotels in Valletta

Follow the Sun Boutique Hostel (Budget) | Located in the lively Sliema neighborhood, Follow the Sun Hostel is a fantastic choice for solo travelers seeking affordable and sociable accommodation. This design-led hostel features dorm beds and private rooms, a swimming pool, welcoming communal areas, and daily breakfast. It’s walkable to beach clubs, cafés, and all Sliema’s best bus and ferry links. Perfect for meeting fellow vagabonds!

Osborne Hotel (Midrange) | For a comfortable stay in the heart of Valletta, Osborne Hotel offers excellent value in a beautifully restored building. It’s just steps from the old city’s top sights and legendary restaurants. Enjoy the on-site rooftop pool, buffet breakfast, and air-conditioned rooms—ideal for solo explorers wanting convenience and a little pampering after a day in the labyrinthine city streets.

The Phoenicia Malta (Upscale) | If you’re looking to treat yourself, The Phoenicia Malta is a historic five-star gem right outside Valletta’s city gate. This grand Art Deco hotel offers lush gardens, a magnificent infinity pool with harbor views, fine dining, and exceptional service. It’s a favorite among solo female travelers for safety, comfort, and luxury—splurge-worthy for a special Maltese experience.

The Duke Boutique Hotel Gozo (Boutique) | If you’re heading to Gozo, The Duke Boutique Hotel, located in Victoria (Rabat), is a standout. It’s locally owned, stylishly designed, and offers rooftop terraces with panoramic island views. Expect personal touches, delicious breakfasts, and easy access to Gozo’s Citadel and bus stations—making it an ideal base to discover the island’s rural charm at a relaxed pace.

Cost of travel

Transportation Costs | The cost of traveling to Malta will depend on your departure point. Flights to Malta International Airport (MLA) from major European cities can range from €40 to €150, depending on the season and how early you book. Once on the island, a rental car will cost around €25 to €50 per day, depending on the type of vehicle and rental duration. Local bus services are also available and quite affordable, with single tickets costing around €1.50 to €2, and weekly bus passes available for approximately €21.

Accommodation | Malta offers accommodations for every budget. For budget travelers, hostels and basic guesthouses can be found for as little as €25 to €50 per night. Mid-range hotels, including charming boutique stays in Valletta or Sliema, range from €80 to €150 per night. For a more luxurious experience, upscale hotels with sea views and additional amenities can cost upwards of €200 to €400 per night, particularly during peak summer months.

Food and Drink | Dining out in Malta can be both affordable and a culinary adventure. Eating at local cafés or casual restaurants will typically cost around €10 to €15 per meal. Mid-range restaurants, especially those along the waterfront, can range from €25 to €40 per person, including drinks. For a high-end dining experience at one of Malta’s fine dining establishments, expect to pay anywhere from €60 to €100 per person, depending on the restaurant and wine selection.

Mestia to Svaneti hike, Georgia

Overview

The Mestia to Ushguli hike is a four-day adventure through Georgia’s stunning Svaneti region, offering a rare combination of untouched landscapes, cultural heritage, and breathtaking scenery. In the heart of the Caucasus mountains, it features remote villages, alpine meadows, dramatic valleys and glaciers, all against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks. Not bad.

The hike is about 55 kilometers, from the town of Mestia to the medieval village of Ushguli (one of Europe’s highest continuously inhabited settlements and a UNESCO World Heritage site)

You’ll need moderate hiking experience and a reasonable level of fitness, but no advanced mountaineering skills (if hiking in summer). This is a hut to hut (or rather village to village) hike, so you can enjoy the comforts of a warm bed and local hospitality each night.

Hike details

Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi

Distance: ~16 km
Hiking Time: 6-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 500m

The trek begins in Mestia, a lively Svan town known for its medieval stone towers and alpine setting, and the administrative center of Upper Svaneti. 

The trek begins at Mestia’s main square. Head out through the gate by the new Queen Tamar statue and turn right. Follow the street until you reach the river, cross it, and turn left—this is where the marked route starts. The trail turns into a dirt path, gradually climbing past Hotel Tetnuldi and a row of wooden chalets as you leave Mestia behind. Soon, you’ll pass a large construction site on your right (likely a new hydroelectric plant).

Further along, you’ll notice some ruined buildings ahead. Before reaching them, turn right and head uphill. After gaining about 50 meters in elevation, the dirt path becomes more enjoyable, winding through light forests and pastures with great views of Mt. Ushba. Eventually, you’ll come to a meadow with another trail marker, directing you off the dirt road and onto a short, steep forest trail. This section reconnects with the main road within 10 minutes. At this point, turn right and walk for another 300 meters until you see a large meadow on your left, a great spot for a break.

About ten minutes beyond the meadow, you’ll reach a viewpoint overlooking the Svaneti valley, with the stunning Mt. Tetnuldi peak dominating the scene. This is the highest point of today’s trek.

From here, the trail descends into the valley. After ten minutes, you’ll arrive at a junction where a small path branches off to the left, heading slightly uphill into some bushes, while a larger path continues downwards. Choose the path depending where you stay overnight.

Where to stay?

Zhabeshi / Chvabiani / Majvdieri: The larger track is the “classic route” descending into the village of Zardlashi. From Zardlashi, the path turns east, following a larger track through Murshkeli village to Zhamushi, where it reconnects with the upper trail. If you’re staying in Zhabeshi take this route. Actually, it doesn’t really matter which village you are staying in, these are all found next to the main road (it’s visible on Google Maps). Some guesthouses are even just next to the road between villages.

Lakhiri: This route is more scenic but also slightly harder to navigate. Take the narrow path to the left, winding through young forest and passing a small construction site. Shortly, you’ll reach a transmitter—this marks where the now more defined trail turns south, reconnecting with the main route. To stay on the upper trail, look for a faint path to the left and head straight across the meadow toward the village of Lakhiri. The detour is well worth it, as Lakhiri is one of the most charming villages in Svaneti, largely untouched by tourism. The next day, turn right from here and descend into Zhamushi to rejoin the main trail.

Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi

Distance: ~10 km
Hiking Time: 5-7 hours
Elevation Gain: 900m

The Zhabeshi to Adishi leg of the trek is rewarding and moderately challenging. Leaving Zhabeshi, you’ll begin a gradual ascent up into more remote mountain terrain. This day starts with a steady climb, with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. The hikes starts strong, but it’s a pretty short day overall. 

The best view on the Zhabeshi to Adishi hike is arguably the panoramic view as you emerge after the tough climb from the forested trails into the open alpine meadows. From this point, you’ll have views of several peaks of the Greater Caucasus, including Mount Tetnuldi in the distance (if you’re lucky and the weather is clear!)
By early afternoon, you’ll arrive in Adishi, with stone houses and Svan towers similar to those of Ushguli.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Nino & Tarzan guesthouse in Adishi and found it decent. It wasn’t mind-blowing but I also didn’t have any complaints. I had a room to myself with cozy wooden walls and plenty of warm blankets for very cheap, and the food was good (although I have to admit the fact that I tend to think food is great on multi-day hikes sometimes doesn’t have much to do with the actual quality of the food :D). There is a big terrace to chill, and you can meet many fellow hikers, the place is quite big.

Day 3: Adishi to Iprari (via Chkhunderi Pass)

Distance: ~17 km
Hiking Time: 6-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 700m (and descent 600m)

The Adishi to Iprari leg is one of the most challenging yet rewarding sections of the Mestia-to-Ushguli trek. It’s a relatively difficult hike with steep ascents and descents, plus a river crossing. This route includes the iconic Chkhunderi Pass with some of the best panoramic views of the Caucasus.

The day begins with the crossing of the Adishi River, which is one of the most memorable moments of the hike to Iprari. You will hear it several times on the trek and at the guesthouse in Iprari – it is important to leave early for this crossing, as water levels rise during the day, making it harder (basically everyone leaves their Adishi guesthouse latest by 9am). The river is icy cold, and the glacial melt gives it a pale, icy blue hue, and a swift and unforgiving flow, especially later in the day.

When you reach the crossing point, you’ll see a wide, rocky riverbed with a few faint trails from previous hikers. There’s no bridge – just the rushing water and the decision to cross.

Apart from the off-season, you’ll find locals with horses waiting to assist hikers. For a small fee, they’ll guide you across safely. I recommend taking a horse, not only because the small fee supports the locals, but because it can get pretty dangerous to cross. Many people attempted to cross on foot, and I ended up giving my trekking poles to a few people to help them and even saw a girl fall in the water (nothing happened but I bet it was very uncomfortable and cold).

Once you’re past the river, the trail immediately begins a steep ascent towards Chkhunderi Pass that will test your stamina. About halfway up, you’ll start to see the Adishi Glacier in its full glory. It’s a massive wall of ice that even makes a faint background hum with the melting ice trickling into streams below.

After the glacier view, as you approach the summit, the trail becomes rockier, forcing you to scramble over loose stones. The effort is intense, but worth it. This is the best view of the entire trek – at 2700 meters you’re surrounded by the peaks of the Greater Caucasus and several glaciers. Behind you, the Adishi Glacier dominates the landscape, while ahead, you catch glimpses of Ushba and Tetnuldi in the distance. 

Where to stay?

Guesthouse Betegi is the highest rated accommodation in the village and this is where I stayed. It was the best accommodation on the whole trek. It’s a family-run guesthouse that provides everything you need after a demanding day on the trail: simple, clean, warm beds, hot showers, fantastic home-cooked meals and great hospitality. It’s important to book in advance during the main trekking season (July–September), as Betegi is the most popular choice in Iprari (rightfully so).

Located in the direction of Iprari but slightly off the main route, Khalde is a quieter option that’s less frequented by tourists. It has limited guesthouses and basic facilities, yet offers a unique glimpse into village life in Svaneti. The detour here is worthwhile if you’re looking for a secluded, peaceful stop with fewer trekkers around.

Day 4: Iprari to Ushguli

Distance: ~10 km
Hiking Time: 4-6 hours
Elevation Gain: 450m

The final day is a shorter, more leisurely hike into the famous village of Ushguli. The trail starts with a gentle climb out of Iprari, passing traditional Svanetian villages. The way is mostly downhill or flat, giving you time to take in the beauty on the way – the hike offers fantastic views of Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak, especially as you approach Ushguli. 

Ushguli is a UNESCO World Heritage site, celebrated for its iconic stone towers and rich history. The village is set against the dramatic backdrop of Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s tallest peak, not a bad ending to your trek. Spend the afternoon (or even an extra day) checking out Ushguli’s ancient churches, towers, and narrow streets, rest in a guesthouse and savor local dishes like kubdari and Svan salt.

To get back to Mestia from Ushguli, the quickest option is by car, either through a shared taxi (30-40 GEL per person) or a private transfer (100-150 GEL), with the journey taking 2-3 hours. There are also occasional minibuses (marshrutkas) that run between the two locations for around 20-25 GEL, though schedules can be unreliable. If you’re a hardcore hiker, or like to punish yourself, you can also hike back along the same trail. It’s best to arrange transportation in advance, especially for shared taxis or private transfers.

Where to stay?

Ushguli offers a range of guesthouses, most basic but comfortable, often run by local families who prepare hearty meals and share insights about the area. Popular guesthouses include Guesthouse Davrikeli, a more comfortable stay known for its spacious rooms and incredible views of Mount Shkhara, Guesthouse Qaldea, a budget-friendly option with clean, simple rooms and fresh and filling food and Guesthouse Marina famous for its traditional Svanetian cuisine and comfortable rooms with modern amenities like Wi-Fi (rare in Ushguli).

How to get there

First you need to get to Georgia of course (probably flying). The capital city, Tbilisi, is the main hub for international flights, but other airports like Batumi and Kutaisi also have a good selection of international flights. Citizens of many countries (including EU, US, Canada, and Australia) can enter Georgia visa-free for up to 1 year. 

If you are already in Georgia, the quickest way to get to Mestia is by flight from Tbilisi (supposedly). There are daily flights operated by Tbilaviamsheni that take around 1 hour and typically cost between 100-150 GEL. I really wanted to try this flight and planned my itinerary around it, but my flight (and the ones in the next few days) were cancelled, so I’m not sure how reliable they are.

Of course you can also get to Mestia by car or bus (there is no train). The drive from Tbilisi to Mestia takes about 7-8 hours (approx. 450 km). Private car transfers range from 200-300 GEL, while marshrutkas are typically around 30-40 GEL per person. If you’re coming from Batumi on the Black Sea coast, the drive takes about 5-6 hours (approx. 250 km). Minibuses also operate on this route. Shared taxis are common for traveling between Mestia and other major cities like Tbilisi and Batumi and cost around 40-60 GEL per person, depending on the route and the season.

FAQ

1 How long does the Mestia to Ushguli hike take?

The hike generally takes four days, covering about 55 kilometers. Each day typically involves 5-8 hours of hiking, depending on your pace, the trail conditions, and how much time you spend at scenic spots. Some hikers complete the trek in three days, though this requires longer days and may limit your time to explore along the way.

2 Do I need a guide for the hike?

The trail from Mestia to Ushguli is well-marked, making it navigable for independent hikers with basic trekking experience. However, if you’re new to hiking or prefer local insights, hiring a guide can enhance your experience. A guide can provide cultural insights, handle logistics, and assist with route choices if weather conditions change.

3 What level of fitness is required?

Moderate fitness is recommended for this hike, as it involves elevation gains, rocky paths, and occasional stream crossings. While the hike isn’t technically challenging, some sections can be strenuous, especially with a backpack. Training with day hikes or regular physical activity before the trip will make the journey more enjoyable.

4 Can I do this hike solo?

Yes, the Mestia to Ushguli hike is suitable for solo travelers, with clearly marked trails and other hikers on the route during peak season. For solo female travelers, it’s worth noting that Georgia is generally considered safe, and local hospitality in the Svaneti region is very welcoming. Homestays along the route also offer a chance to meet fellow travelers each evening.

5 What should I pack for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?

Essentials include sturdy hiking boots, a rain jacket, layers for warmth, a hat, sunscreen, a water bottle, and a small first-aid kit. While food is available at guesthouses, carrying some snacks is advisable. Trekking poles can be helpful for steep or rocky sections, and a lightweight sleeping bag liner is useful for additional warmth in some guesthouses.

6 Are there places to stay along the route?

Yes, there are guesthouses and homestays in each village along the route, making it possible to complete the hike without camping gear. These accommodations offer meals, beds, and an authentic glimpse into local culture. Reservations aren’t always necessary, but it’s wise to book ahead if you’re traveling in peak season (July-August) or with a large group.

7 What is the best time of year to hike from Mestia to Ushguli?

The ideal time for this trek is from late June to early October, when the weather is generally mild, and the trails are clear of snow. July and August are peak months with more hikers and fully open guesthouses, while September offers beautiful fall colors and fewer crowds. In early June or late October, snow can still linger on the trail, especially at higher elevations, making the hike more challenging.

8 Is there cellphone reception along the hike?

Cell reception can be limited or nonexistent in parts of the trail, especially in remote valleys. Most villages have some reception, and some guesthouses offer Wi-Fi. If staying connected is important, consider a local SIM card or portable Wi-Fi device, though it may not work everywhere along the route.

9 How do I get to Mestia and return from Ushguli?

Most travelers reach Mestia from Tbilisi, Zugdidi, or Kutaisi by train, bus, or domestic flight. Once in Mestia, the trailhead is accessible by foot. To return from Ushguli, you can book a shared or private 4×4 vehicle back to Mestia. It’s worth coordinating with other hikers or guesthouse hosts to arrange a ride, as roads are rough and transport is limited.

10 Do I need any permits for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?

No permits are required for this hike. However, it’s wise to register at your guesthouse before starting each day’s trek, letting hosts know where you’re headed and your expected arrival time in the next village. This is a common courtesy in the area and helps ensure your safety in case of unforeseen issues on the trail.

11 How safe is the hike?

The trail itself is generally safe and frequented by other hikers in peak season. While there’s no need to worry about major hazards, some sections involve river crossings or steep descents, so proceed with caution and keep an eye on the weather. Basic travel safety measures, like notifying someone of your daily plan and carrying an emergency contact, are recommended.

Best things to do in Skopelos, Greece

Overview

Greek classic at its best – Skopelos is known from the Mamma Mia! Movies, yet is still not overcrowded, even in high season (maybe because the island doesn’t have an airport, which might deter the worst of the tourist crowd for some reason that is quite incomprehensible to me). 

Anyways, you will find it all here – green hills rolling into turquoise waters, streets that look like they haven’t aged a day in centuries, dramatic chapels,  fresh seafood at a harborside tavernas, awesome boat trips, clear waters and an easygoing vibe. Signature greek style, there are insanely vibrant colors everywhere making it very easy for me to capture the beauty of this place.

What to do

  • 1   Explore Skopelos Town (Chora)
  • 2   Visit Agios Ioannis Chapel (Mamma Mia Church)
  • 3   Relax on the Beaches
  • 4   Go Hiking and Visit Traditional Monasteries
  • 5   Explore the Village of Glossa
  • 6   Try Local Cuisine
  • 7   Take a Boat Trip
  • 8   Dive into Underwater Adventures

1 Explore Skopelos Town (Chora)

The main town of Skopelos, often called Chora ( In Greek islands, “Chora” is a traditional term for the main town or capital of the island) , is a delightful place to explore. Wander through its maze of narrow, cobbled streets lined with traditional whitewashed houses with blue shutters and neon bougainvillea that almost hurts the eye. Climb up to the Venetian castle for some great views of the harbor, and take time to visit the numerous small churches scattered around town. There are many restaurants and cozy tavernas for a taste of local Greek cuisine – my top choice being Stou Dimitraki, Finikas and Azan.

2. Visit Agios Ioannis Chapel (Mamma Mia Church)

One of Skopelos’s most iconic (and most crowded) spots is the Agios Ioannis Chapel, famously known as the “Mamma Mia Church” because of its appearance in the movie. Perched on top of a steep rock formation, the chapel is a beautiful place to visit even if you haven’t seen the film. Climb the 198 steps to reach the church, and you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the Aegean Sea – a perfect combo of scenic adventure and a touch of Hollywood.

3 Relax on the Beaches

Skopelos is home to some of Greece’s most picturesque beaches. 

Panormos Beach is a popular spot, known for its pebble shores and crystal-clear waters, perfect for a relaxing swim. Milia Beach is ideal for those who love soft sand and a bit of shade under the pines, while Stafilos Beach is closer to Skopelos Town, offering sunbeds, a taverna, and easy access for those staying nearby. Whether you prefer pebbles, sand, or rocky coves, Skopelos has a beach for every preference. Agnontas Beach is a small, tranquil beach on Skopelos’s southwest coast – not the best one itself, but it is next to the wonderfully beautiful Amarandos cove (you can walk there from Agnontas even without a car).

Highlight: Amarandos Cove

Amarandos Cove is one of Skopelos’s hidden gems, a rugged shore with crystal-clear waters, rocky formations, and distinctive pine trees growing close to the water. This cove is a great spot for a swim, snorkeling, or simply enjoying the incredible natural scenery. It has raw beauty and a less commercialized feel, but it is better for exploring rather than spending beach time – there are no comfortable places to lie down and no amenities whatsoever. I recommend taking the short (but very dusty) walk here from Agnontas beach and snorkel around in peace and take some photos.

4 Go Hiking and Visit Traditional Monasteries

Skopelos is one of Greece’s greenest islands, with abundant forests of pine, olive, and fruit trees. It’s great for hiking when it’s not too hot, with plenty of trails that lead you through lush landscapes, past secluded monasteries, and to quiet coves. Mount Dhelfi, the highest point on the island, offers some challenging hikes but is well worth it for the views at the top. You can also follow trails leading to hidden chapels, old ruins, and panoramic lookouts.

For a more cultural experience, visit some of Skopelos’s beautiful monasteries. The Monastery of Evangelistria, located on a hill overlooking Chora, is a great place to start. It offers panoramic views of the island along with fascinating history and beautiful religious art. Other notable monasteries include the Monastery of Timios Prodromos and Monastery of Agia Varvara. These historic structures are usually quiet and give you a peaceful glimpse into the island’s spiritual past.

5 Explore the Village of Glossa

Head to the village of Glossa, located on the northern side of the island. Known for its charming, traditional architecture and panoramic views, Glossa is a great spot for experiencing the slower side of island life. The streets are filled with colorful houses, small shops, and friendly locals. Have dinner at one of the tavernas and enjoy fresh seafood while taking in an unforgettable sunset view over the Aegean.

6 Try Local Cuisine

Skopelos is known for its delicious local dishes, many of which you won’t easily find elsewhere. Don’t leave the island without trying the famous Skopelos Cheese Pie, a spiral-shaped pie made with crispy filo dough and local goat cheese. For dinner, order fresh seafood, often grilled and served with lemon and herbs. Also, try the locally-produced honey, olive oil, and fruit preserves. Many tavernas on the island are family-run, offering a home-cooked experience you’ll remember long after you leave.

7 Take a Boat Trip

Explore Skopelos from the water by joining a boat tour. You can sail around the island, stopping at some of the more secluded beaches only accessible by boat. Alternatively, take a day trip to neighboring islands, such as Alonissos, which is part of the Marine Park and is known for its efforts to protect the endangered Mediterranean monk seal. A boat trip offers the perfect opportunity to enjoy a different perspective of Skopelos’s gorgeous coastline.

Highlight: Alonissos Village

Alonissos Village, often called the “Old Village” or “Chora,” is perched high on a hill and offers a traditional Greek island experience. After an earthquake in 1965, many residents moved to the harbor area of Patitiri, leaving this charming village largely untouched and preserving its historic character. Today, it is a beautiful place to explore, with its narrow stone streets, whitewashed houses, and flowering bougainvillea. The views from Chora are spectacular, especially at sunset, with sweeping vistas of the Aegean Sea and the surrounding islands.

Highlight: Mediterranean Monk Seals Near Skopelos

The waters around Skopelos are home to the endangered Mediterranean monk seal, one of the rarest marine mammals in the world. These seals thrive in the protected marine areas of the Northern Sporades, which includes Skopelos and the neighboring island of Alonissos. Alonissos Marine Park, a short boat ride away, plays a key role in protecting these beautiful creatures. You may spot them while taking boat trips, especially if visiting more remote beaches or coves. Respectful viewing is crucial to help ensure their safety and conservation.

8 Dive into Underwater Adventures

Skopelos’s clear waters make it a fantastic spot for snorkeling and diving. Skopelos Dive Center offers guided scuba diving trips suitable for beginners and experienced divers (they have offices in Skopelos town and Panormos, but the boats depart from Panormos only!). The underwater landscape is full of rock formations, caves, and marine life. Even if you’re not up for diving, bring a snorkel mask along to explore the underwater beauty around the beaches.

How much time you need

Skopelos is a summer beach destination, so you probably want to stay for a few days to relax. I recommend at least 3 nights to be able to check out the most dramatic beaches and go on an island hopping tour while having a bit of time to just relax on a beach and eat.

How to get there

FLY

Skopelos doesn’t have an airport, so the best way to get there is by ferry. You can first fly to Skiathos Island, which has an airport connected to many European cities, and then take a short ferry ride to Skopelos (about 30-60 minutes).

FERRY

Alternatively, you can travel to Skopelos by ferry from Volos or Agios Konstantinos on the mainland, or from other islands like Alonissos or Skiathos. Ferry services operate regularly, especially in the summer months, and tickets can be booked online or at the ports. You can book ferry tickets to Skopelos through several online services that offer easy access to schedules and reservations. Here are a couple of useful links:

1 Aktoploika.gr offers ferry tickets to Skopelos from multiple ports, including Volos, Agios Konstantinos, and Skiathos. You can book your tickets online and find detailed schedules and pricing.

2 BookTickets.gr also provides a reliable service for booking ferry tickets to Skopelos, with connections from various locations like Volos, Thessaloniki, and Alonissos.

Both sites allow you to compare routes and check for discounts, making your trip planning easier. Booking in advance is recommended, especially during the summer months.

How to get around

Car Rentals

Renting a car offers the flexibility to explore the island at your own pace. Several rental agencies operate in Skopelos, including local companies and international brands like Enterprise Rent-A-Car. Rental prices vary depending on the season and vehicle type. On average, expect to pay between €20 and €50 per day.

Bringing a Car via Ferry

If you’re considering bringing your own vehicle to Skopelos, ferries from ports like Volos, Agios Konstantinos, and Thessaloniki accommodate cars. The cost for transporting a standard vehicle ranges from €55 to €90, depending on the ferry operator and the season.

Public Buses

Skopelos has a public bus system connecting major towns and beaches. Buses run regularly between Skopelos Town, Glossa, and popular beaches like Stafilos, Agnontas, and Panormos. Services are rare, even in the summer months there are only about 5 buses a day, and it can easily happen that your return bus is full and then you are stranded (people were also very reluctant to pick anyone up, so no hitchiking here).  At least, fares are affordable, usually between €2 and €5 per trip, depending on the distance.

Where to stay

Thea Home Hotel (Budget) | I stayed at Thea Home Hotel and highly recommend it for budget travelers looking for a welcoming atmosphere. Located within walking distance of Skopelos Town, this charming family-run hotel offers comfortable rooms with beautiful views of the sea or the garden (the two pictures below are the view from my balcony!). The breakfast on the terrace is a highlight, with a great selection of local treats. The owners are incredibly friendly, giving you a taste of genuine Greek hospitality while providing helpful tips about exploring the island.

Skopelos Village Hotel (Mid-Range) | Skopelos Village Hotel is just a short stroll from Skopelos Town and offers a comfortable blend of modern amenities and Greek island charm. The spacious rooms and suites are elegantly decorated, with many offering stunning sea views. Guests can enjoy two outdoor swimming pools, a great breakfast, and the convenience of being close to the town’s restaurants and shops while staying in a peaceful environment.

Adrina Resort & Spa (Upscale) | For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Adrina Resort & Spa in Panormos is an excellent choice. This upscale resort features beautifully decorated rooms, private beach access, an infinity pool, and a high-quality spa. Guests often praise the resort’s two on-site restaurants for their fresh, delicious dishes and the impeccable service provided by the friendly staff. It’s an ideal option for those wanting a relaxing and pampered experience on the island.

Cost of travel

Transportation Costs | Getting to Skopelos is a bit of an adventure since the island doesn’t have an airport. Your journey typically involves flying into Skiathos (the nearest airport) or taking a ferry from mainland ports like Volos, Agios Konstantinos, or Thessaloniki. Flights to Skiathos from Athens or other European hubs range from €50 to €150, depending on the season and how early you book. Ferries to Skopelos cost between €10 to €30 per person one-way, with additional fees if you’re bringing a vehicle. Local buses on the island are affordable, costing around €2 per trip, while taxis and car rentals range from €30 to €50 per day.

Accommodation | Guesthouses and basic apartments start at around €40 to €60 per night. Mid-range options like hotels and more comfortable rentals typically range from €80 to €120 per night. Luxury stays and high-end villas or boutique hotels can cost €150+ per night.

Food and Drink | Dining on Skopelos is relatively affordable, especially if you stick to local tavernas. Meals at a local taverna are €10 to €15 per person, including drinks. In mid-range restaurants it costs €20 to €30 per person for a full meal with wine. Coffee and pastries are around €3 to €5. Expect to spend €35 to €50+ per person for fresh seafood or more upscale dining.

Activities | Many activities on Skopelos are either free or reasonably priced, with the exception being diving (which is expensive everywhere). Access to beaches is free, though sunbed rentals cost around €5 to €10 per day. There are free and plentiful hiking trails – on many of these you can find monasteries, which are also free, though some may request a small donation. Organized excursions or private boat rentals range from €30 to €80 per person.

A short guide to Lake Bohinj

Lake Bohinj in summer with the church and bridge

Overview

Lake Bohinj is Slovenia’s largest permanent lake, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Julian Alps. It is a spectacular, yet less touristy counterpart to the well-known Lake Bled. Located in Slovenia’s Triglav National Park, lake Bohinj offers similar stunning landscapes, more outdoor activities, and a sense of peace that Bled can sometimes lack. Here’s everything you need to know for a great visit.

What to do

  • 1   Walk the Lake Loop
  • 2    Go Kayaking or Paddleboarding
  • 3    Vogel Cable Car
  • 4    Savica Waterfall
  • 5    Relax at the Lakeshore

1 Walk the Lake Loop

One of the simplest but most rewarding activities around Lake Bohinj is to walk the 12-kilometer trail that loops the lake. The path is easy enough for all fitness levels, and the views are magnificent. You’ll pass through shaded forest sections, small beaches where you can stop for a swim, and a few quaint wooden piers perfect for a rest or picnic. This walk will take about three to four hours, depending on how often you stop to take in the scenery.

2 Go Kayaking or Paddleboarding

Lake Bohinj’s calm, clear waters make it a great place for kayaking or paddleboarding. You can rent equipment from one of the lakeside stands and take in the peaceful surroundings from the water. If you’re traveling with friends, renting a rowboat is also a fun option for a bit of group adventure on the lake.

People swimming in Lake Bohinj in Slovenia in summer

Vogel Cable Car

A short drive from the lake brings you to the Vogel Cable Car, which takes you up Mount Vogel. The ride itself is spectacular, with sweeping views of the lake below and the surrounding peaks. Once at the top, there are many easy trails to explore, which are perfect for those not looking for too much strenuous hiking but still wanting to enjoy some great alpine views. During winter, this area transforms into a small but fun ski resort.

4 Savica Waterfall

Savica Waterfall is another must-visit attraction near Lake Bohinj. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the lake and requires a short uphill hike of roughly 30 minutes. The waterfall itself is impressive, with water cascading over a high cliff into an emerald pool below. There is a small entrance fee, but it’s worth it for the well-maintained trail and the rewarding view of this powerful natural feature.

5 Relax at the Lakeshore

If you’re visiting during summer, don’t miss out on swimming in Lake Bohinj. The water is pure and refreshing, especially on a hot day. Several small beaches and grassy areas make for perfect spots to set up with a towel, soak up the sun, and cool off in the lake. Since Bohinj is generally less busy than Bled, you can enjoy these spots without having to jostle for space.

How much time you need

You can comfortably explore Lake Bohinj in one full day, though spending two days will allow you to see more and relax a bit. A full day lets you walk around the lake, visit Vogel via the cable car, swim, and hike to Savica Waterfall. If you have two days, you can include kayaking, more hikes, and simply enjoy the serene atmosphere without rushing.

If you’re short on time, it is convenient and easy to come directly from Ljubljana or from Zagreb to enjoy Lake Bled on a day trip.

How to get there

Fly to Ljubljana then take a bus | There are several direct international flights to the nearest airport of Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport, located about 36 kilometers away. From the airport, you can take a bus, shuttle, or taxi to Lake Bohinj. The journey takes approximately 45 minutes to an hour. Regular bus services also run from Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. The buses are comfortable and the journey takes about two hours.

Rent a car in Ljubljana or in Bled to make the most of the surrounding natural landscapes. You’ll have a much easier time to get to trailheads and to decide when and where to go.

When to go

Lake Bohinj is fantastic to visit year-round, but each season offers a different experience. During summer (June to September), the weather is warm, perfect for swimming, hiking, and other outdoor activities. The lake is crystal-clear and ideal for cooling down after a hike or just enjoying some paddleboarding. Autumn brings vivid colors to the landscape, with golden hues reflecting on the lake, making it great for photography. The hiking trails are still accessible, and it’s less crowded, offering peaceful walks. In winter you can ski at Vogel or simply enjoy the peaceful, frozen landscape. Spring sees nature waking up, with blooming wildflowers and snowmelt feeding the lake and waterfalls. The weather can be more unpredictable, but it’s a great time to visit if you enjoy seeing landscapes transitioning from winter to summer.

Where to stay

There are various accommodation options around Lake Bohinj, depending on your budget and preferences. You’ll find camping grounds, which are ideal for budget travelers and those wanting to get closer to nature. Guesthouses and farm stays are very popular in the region, allowing you to experience the local culture while still being close to the lake.

If you’re after something a bit more luxurious, there are several comfortable hotels near the lake, offering great views and easy access to hiking trails. Most accommodations are found in Bohinjska Bistrica or Ribčev Laz, both of which have everything you need for a comfortable stay, including small grocery stores, cafes, and restaurants.

Flamsbana (Flåm Railway) – is it worth it?

Overview

What is the Flamsbana?

The Flåm Railway, also known as Flåmsbana, is often regarded as one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. This 20-kilometer route from Myrdal to Flåm offers breathtaking views of Norway’s stunning landscapes, including towering mountains, deep valleys, and cascading waterfalls. It is an impressive piece of engineering, with steep gradients and tunnels that showcase the ingenuity of its construction nearly a century ago.

Is it worth the time and money?

If you are attracted to trains, and love nature and photography, the answer is a resounding yes. If you appreciate iconic, bucket-list experiences and don’t mind the cost, the Flåm Railway will likely be a highlight of your trip. On the other hand, if you’re on a tight budget or dislike crowded tourist attractions, you might want to weigh your options carefully. The Flamsbana is not cheap – but then again, nothing is in Norway, so the additional cost of the experience will probably be within your planned budget.

How to visit

There are two ways to visit Flåm and ride the Flamsbana, either as a day-trip with the very famous Norway in a Nutshell tour (from Bergen or Oslo), or as a DIY trip by buying train tickets separately. 

Flam as a day trip

You can even replicate the entire Norway in a Nutshell tour yourself, which will be significantly cheaper, but involves some planning – see my dedicated post about how to do this. 

En route from Oslo to Bergen

The full price of the Flamsbana one way is around 42€. If you have an Interrail or Eurail pass you can get 30% off, but you need to call to book your ticket or do it in person. The best way to do it yourself is to stop on the way from Oslo to Bergen (by the way, this stretch called the Bergsbanen is also a famously beautiful train ride in its own right!), take the round trip with the Flamsbana and continue to Bergen from Myrdal. The Oslo – Bergen ticket usually costs around 100€ full price (included in Interrail and Eurail).

Experience

The Flåm Railway is one of the highlights of a Norway trip, and is thus very crowded. It is essential to book in advance, otherwise you get stuck at the Myrdal train station in the middle of nowhere waiting for hours. The train itself is an old style nostalgic train with a wooden interior and benches.

Tips

– Go out on the platform 10 min before the train arrives so you can get on early and secure a window seat (the FLamsbana has free seating). 

– From Myrdal to Flåm, sit on the left side, which has slightly better views (don’t worry, both are great though)

– Some windows open on the Flåm train but not all of them (about every third window). If you want to take photos try to grab a seat by an opening window to avoid the reflections – there are some tunnel sections on the ride where it can get really loud with the windows open, it’s better to close it for these short sections.

When to Visit

All seasons offer something unique, though summer and early autumn being the easiest to do the trip (it gets very cold!) In summer you can see neon green landscapes and can visit until late due to the long daylight hours, but it’s also the busiest time. In autumn you can enjoy vibrant fall colors and fewer crowds as it starts to get more chilly. Winter is exceptionally atmospheric all across Norway when there is snow – you will have a peaceful and unique experience but will probably freeze your ass off. In spring the melting snow feeds into roaring waterfalls, and the landscape becomes green, but there’s a(n even) higher chance for rain.

Slovenia: 10-day Travel Itinerary

Lake Jasna, Slovenia

Slovenia

Welcome to Slovenia, a small country that packs a big punch when it comes to natural beauty and cultural experiences. From charming old towns and majestic castles to emerald lakes and coastal views, this 10-day itinerary gives you a taste of everything Slovenia has to offer. It takes you through the capital of Ljubljana, the big hits of Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, the alpine charm of Kranjska Gora, and the Mediterranean vibe of Piran. You’ll see natural and cultural sights in equal measure, while keeping driving distances manageable. You can also do the same itinerary without a car, but you’ll probably need a few more days ot to cut some things – I’ve included tips on how to do this.

Itinerary

Ljubljana – Logar Valley – Rinka waterfall – Velika Planina – Kranj – Bled – Vintgar Gorge – Lake Bohinj – Zelenci nature reserve – Jasna lake – Kranjska Gora – Skocjan Caves – Piran.
Click on the map below to see my pins in Google Maps!

Day One: Discover Ljubljana

Your Slovenian road trip starts in the bustling capital, Ljubljana. Wander the old town’s cobbled streets to explore a variety of architectural styles that tell the city’s history. You can reach Ljubljana Castle by a forested trail or take the funicular for stunning views stretching to the Alps. Below, the expansive Tivoli Gardens offers a quiet spot for a picnic among statues and fountains. As evening approaches, the city’s cafes and restaurants come alive. Enjoy a meal at a traditional Slovenian restaurant like Julija to close the day.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Eat: Julija

Day Two: More Ljubljana Magic

Spend another day exploring Ljubljana’s highlights. The Central Market, designed by architect Jože Plečnik, is always lively. Try some local specialties and consider grabbing a few artisanal souvenirs. The Dragon Bridge, featuring its iconic dragon statues, is a must-see. For a dose of culture, check out the National Gallery or the Museum of Contemporary Art. Stay overnight in one of Ljubljana’s charming boutique hotels to rest up for the next leg of your journey.

Alternatively, if you’re tired of the city, take an organized tour to discover the tourist spots beyond the city limits. A great option is the “Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle” tour. This 6-hour day trip visits both sites, so you can see a cool cave system and some of the medieval castles near Ljubljana. The tour covers entrance fees, transportation, and audio guides for both locations. If you want to get your car earlier of course you can visit these places independently as well (however, it can be challenging by public transport).

Driving Distance: 0 km

Eat: Julija

Yellow flower

Day Three: Logar Valley & Velika Planina

Get up early, pick up your rental car and start driving towards Kranj, where you’ll spend the night. As a first stop, visit Velika Planina, where shepherd’s huts dot the landscape amid grazing cattle. You can take the cable car up the mountain where it’s a short hike to the huts. After this morning hike, continue your way to Logar Valley and Rinka waterfall (they are in the same direction and really close to each other). Both of these stops are relatively short – you can walk around a little in Logar Valley and take photos, and it’s about a 20 min easy hike to reach Rinka waterfall. After that, continue on to Kranj, and enjoy the evening there, perhaps with dinner at Das ist Walter, which serves traditional Slovenian dishes and is very highly rated.

It’s quite hard to connect all these places on a day trip with public transport. You can take the train to Kranj, and then take local buses to visit each of the attractions, but you’ll probably have to stay one night longer to fit it all in.

Driving Distance: 110 km,  3h

Stay: Hostel Cukrarna (budget), Hotel Aktum (midrange)

Day Four: Visiting Lake Bled

Today’s highlight is the picturesque Lake Bled. After driving to Bled (or taking the bus from Kranj), go straight to the lake and either walk around the shore to admire the view or start right away with a morning pletna boat ride to the Church of the Assumption (on a little island in the middle of the lake), and ring the wishing bell. Alternatively, you can hire a paddle boat yourself for 20€ an hour to take in the views from the lake. If you’re up for some sports, hike to Mala Osojnica for breathtaking views (go for the sunrise if you dare, it’s beautiful). In the evening, catch the sunset at Bled Castle. Stay overnight in Bled for the next 2 days, perhaps at the delightful Vila Bled.

If you have less time, instead of arriving from Kranj, you can also go to Bled directly from Ljubljana, which is pretty easy even with public transport. There are many local buses connecting the two cities. Go to Ljubljana Bus Station where you can buy a ticket from the kiosk. There are buses running every 30 minutes from 8:30 AM to 9 PM every day, and it should be about 3€ 1 hour 15 minutes to get there. The bus will drop you off at Bled Bus Station.

Driving Distance: 50 km, 45 min

Stay: Vila Bled (upscale)

Eat: Kavarna Park (try the Bled cake!)

Day Five: Vintgar Gorge & Lake Bohinj

Vintgar is Slovenia’s most spectacular gorge, worthy of a half-day trip from Lake Bled. Start the day here, following boardwalks beside flowing rapids. After lunch, visit Lake Bohinj, a serene alternative to Bled. I think those two are enough activities for the day, but if you lack more movement you can also hike to Savica Waterfall. Spend another night in Bled, enjoying local dishes at Gostilna Pri Planincu.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Vila Bled (upscale)

Day Six: Nature Escapes in Zelenci & Jasna Lake

Depart Bled and head to the stunning Zelenci Nature Reserve with its vibrant springs and diverse wildlife. Zelenci looks out of this world with its neon turquoise water, but it’s probably much smaller than you imagine (the whole nature “reserve” is like a 5 minute walk in total) – regardless, absolutely worth a visit. Then, visit Lake Jasna for lunch with a view at Jasna Chalet Resort. Lake Jasna is an equally stunning spot, surrounded by mountains. Stay in Kranjska Gora, a peaceful alpine town. Try local flavors at Gostilna & pizzerija Bor or explore other local eateries.

Driving Distance: 50 km, 1 h

Stay: Traveller Bunker (budget), Ritz Carlton (upscale)

Day Seven: Hiking in Kranjska Gora

Spend the day hiking in the stunning surroundings of Kranjska Gora. There are numerous trails to choose from, such as those leading through the Triglav National Park or even up to Vršič Pass for a more challenging hike. Enjoy the fresh air, green meadows, and views of Slovenia’s highest peaks. Return to town for a warm welcome and another relaxing night.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Kranjska Gora, Boutique Skipass Superior Hotel (upscale)

Day Eight: From Underground to the Seaside

Hit the road early for a longer drive to the coast (approx. 2.5 hours). On the way, stop at Škocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its massive underground chambers and stunning rock formations. Continue on to Piran, Slovenia’s coastal gem, where you’ll arrive in the afternoon. Wander through the narrow streets and enjoy the Mediterranean vibe of this charming seaside town. Stay overnight at Hotel Piran, where you can fall asleep to the sound of the sea.

Driving Distance: 160 km, 3h

Stay: Hotel Piran

Day Nine: Relaxing in Piran

Spend the day embracing the Adriatic. Relax on the beach, visit Piran’s maritime museum and Tartini Square, walk along the promenade, and dine on fresh seafood at Fritolin pri Cantini. In the evening, enjoy a gelato as you stroll along the marina.

Driving Distance: 0 km

Stay: Hotel Piran

Day Ten: Farewell, Slovenia

It’s time to say goodbye to Slovenia. Depending on your departure time, you may want to take one last stroll along Piran’s waterfront before hitting the road back to Ljubljana or your next destination. 

When to go

June to September – Slovenia is an all-year destination, for different reasons. In my opinion summer and early autumn are the best times to visit if you want to hike. Summer of course is the busiest time here, just like in the rest of Europe, but Slovenia is still great for escaping the heat waves and the famously crazier crowds in Italy or Greece for example. In summer you can expertly combine hiking in the mountains with a short classic beach holiday around Piran. In autumn the colors of the foliage can be breathtaking, the crowds thin, and accommodation gets slightly cheaper. In Spring the meadows are covered in wildflowers, the mountain peaks in snow, and the weather is colder but comfortable. In winter you can ski and if you’re lucky enjoy the beautiful mountain scenery covered in snow.

People swimming in Lake Bohinj in Slovenia in summer

How to get around

Slovenia is pretty tiny, so getting around the country is easy and doesn’t take much time at all. You’ve got a bunch of good public transport options like trains and buses that won’t break the bank. Plus, renting a car is super affordable, so if you’re up for a road trip, you’re in for a treat.

By car | If you like the idea of driving yourself around, you can rent a car as soon as you land at the airport in Ljubljana. You’ll have an easier way to get to trailheads and nature areas. Just be aware that the roads up in the mountains are pretty tight and usually only fit one car at a time, which can slow you down, especially in busy spots like Lake Bled. And keep an eye out for the weather, as rain and fog are common up there. But don’t worry too much – driving is generally easy-going, and the roads are in good shape.

By train | You can count on the trains here to run on time, and they’re pretty up-to-date, too. Getting around the country by train should be easy. Plus, you can grab your ticket online before you go, which is super handy. Just a heads-up, trains won’t take you right up to the hiking spots – for that, you’ll likely need to hop on a bus as well. Check out this picture that shows all the train routes.

By bus | The bus is a solid choice for getting from one city to another in Slovenia. You can check out the bus times online and pick your seat before you even get to the station. I’m a fan of using the bus and Flixbus when I travel – they tend to be quicker and more on time than the train.

Cost of travel

Slovenia is relatively affordable for travelers of all budgets. Accommodation ranges from €20-35 per night for hostels to €60-100 for midrange hotels, while luxury stays start around €150. Food costs about €7-15 per meal for casual spots, €20-35 for midrange restaurants, and €50+ for fine dining. Transport is budget-friendly, with car rentals costing €30-50 per day and local buses averaging €1.50-3.00 per trip.

Budget travelers can expect to spend around €50-70 per day, while midrange budgets run closer to €100-150 per day. For a more luxurious experience, plan on spending upwards of €200 daily.

Foods to try

Dumplings | Sweet or savoury, dumplings come in all types in Slovenia. Our favourites are the cheese dumplings, served with a mushroom sauce

Frico (potato & cheese pie) | Traditional farmers pie made of potato and cheese – basically the greatest pie that’s ever been made – crispy cheese on the outside, cheese and potato on the inside

Mushroom soup | Mushrooms are in abundance in Slovenia, and a fresh mushroom soup is beyond delicious.

Pumpkin seed oil | Um, this might be the greatest thing we’ve ever tried! Used to dress everything from salads to ice-cream, pumpkin seed oil is a taste sensation

Slovenian honey | Slovenian’s love their honey – there are over 10,000 beekeepers in the country, which for a population of 2 million, is astounding. It makes sense – Slovenian honey is beautiful, so don’t forget to try/buy some

Best things to do in Bergen

Overview

Bergen, Norway, often called “The Gateway to the Fjords,” is one of those places that has a bit of everything. It’s got that postcard-perfect charm with its colorful houses, stunning fjord views, and mountains surrounding the city. If you only have time (or budget) for a short visit to Norway, Bergen is the place to be. I would even venture as far as to recommend skipping Oslo in favor of Bergen and the fjords, and not because I don’t like the capital, but because Bergen is really that amazing.

What to do

  • 1   Explore hystoric Bryggen
  • 2    Ride the Floibanen to Mount Floyen
  • 3    Visit the Fish Market (Fisketorget)
  • 4    Learn Some History at the Hanseatic Museum
  • 5    Climb to the Top of Mount Ulriken
  • 6    Bergen Aquarium (Akvariet i Bergen)
  • 7    Take a Fjord Tour

1 Explore Historic Bryggen

Bryggen is one of Bergen’s most iconic sights and a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its colorful wooden buildings lining the harbor. These old merchant houses date back to the 14th century when the Hanseatic League controlled trade in the region. Walking through this area feels like stepping back in time, with its narrow alleyways, wooden structures, and small artisanal shops selling everything from traditional crafts to souvenirs. In the backstreets and hidden courtyards behind the main row of buildings you’ll find small museums and cafes.

2 Ride the Floibanen to Mount Floyen

Mount Floyen is a must-see when you’re in Bergen, and the best part? It’s super accessible. Get on the Floibanen funicular, which takes you up to the top of Mount Floyen in about 6-7 minutes. The views from the summit are stunning, offering a panoramic look at the city, the fjords, and the surrounding mountains.

Once you’re at the top, there’s a lot to do. You can grab a coffee and enjoy the view, take a short hike, or even rent a bike if you’re feeling more adventurous. The trails around Mount Floyen are well-marked, and you can even hike all the way back down to the city center if you want a scenic walk.

3. Visit the Fish Market (Fisketorget)

Bergen’s Fish Market is a great place to experience Norwegian cuisine firsthand. Located right on the harbor, it’s a lively spot where you can pick up fresh seafood like salmon, king crab, and shrimp. Many stalls also offer ready-to-eat dishes, so it’s a good place for a casual lunch or snack. Although definitely geared towards tourists, here are even some local delicacies like reindeer or whale meat.

4. Learn Some History at the Hanseatic Museum

Located in one of the original buildings on Bryggen, the Hanseatic Museum is actually pretty interesting – it shows the lives of German merchants who controlled Bergen’s trade for over 400 years. You can get a realistic feel for the cramped living quarters and strict working conditions of the time. The museum does an excellent job of explaining the role of the Hanseatic League and how it influenced Bergen’s development. Even if you’re not much into history, the authentic setting makes it worth the visit.

5 Climb to the Top of Mount Ulriken

If you’re up for a more challenging hike, head to Mount Ulriken, the tallest of the seven mountains surrounding Bergen. You can either hike up (which takes about 1.5-2 hours) or take the Ulriksbanen cable car for a faster ascent. The views from the top are nothing short of spectacular—think endless fjords, mountain peaks, and, on a clear day, even a glimpse of the North Sea.

There are several hiking trails once you’re at the top, including a popular route to Mount Floyen if you’re up for a longer adventure.

6 Bergen Aquarium (Akvariet i Bergen)

Bergen Aquarium is perfect if you’re traveling with kids, but it’s also fun for adults interested in marine life. The aquarium is home to a wide variety of sea creatures, including seals, penguins, and fish native to the Norwegian coastline. They also have informative exhibits about Norway’s marine environment and conservation efforts.

Tip: the penguin feeding and seal shows are highlights, so try to time your visit around one of these events.

7 Take a Fjord Tour

You can’t visit Bergen without experiencing the magic of Norway’s fjords. There are plenty of boat tours leaving from Bergen’s harbor that will take you into the heart of the fjords. One of the most popular tours is the Norway in a Nutshell tour, which includes a boat trip through the fjords as well as a scenic train ride on the famous Flåm Railway and which you can replicate much cheaper yourself – see here how).

How to get there

By Plane | The easiest way to get to Bergen is by flying into Bergen Airport (BGO), also known as Flesland Airport. There are direct flights from major European cities like London, Amsterdam, Copenhagen, and Stockholm, as well as frequent domestic flights from Oslo and other Norwegian cities. From the airport, it’s just a 20-30 minute journey to the city center by:

– Light Rail (Bybanen): The most affordable option, costing around NOK 40-50 ($4-5), with trains departing every 10 minutes.

– Airport Shuttle (Flybussen): A bit quicker than the light rail and costs around NOK 130-150 ($12-15).

– Taxi: If you prefer convenience, a taxi ride to the city center will cost approximately NOK 400-500 ($40-50).

By Train | If you’re already in Norway, taking the train to Bergen is one of the most scenic options. The Bergen Line (Bergensbanen) from Oslo to Bergen is often considered one of the world’s most beautiful train journeys. The 7-hour ride takes you through dramatic landscapes, including fjords, mountains, and rivers. You can book tickets through Vy (Norwegian Railways), with prices ranging from NOK 300-800 ($30-80) depending on the class and time of booking.

By Car | Driving to Bergen can be a fantastic way to explore the Norwegian countryside, but keep in mind that some routes involve ferries, tunnels, and winding mountain roads. If you’re driving from Oslo, it’s a 7-8 hour journey, while from Stavanger, it’s about 5 hours. Be prepared for tolls along the way and beautiful but often narrow and winding roads, especially in the fjord regions.

By Bus | Several bus companies, such as Nor-Way Bussekspress and Vy Bus, offer routes to Bergen from other Norwegian cities. Traveling by bus is a good option if you’re coming from cities like Stavanger or Trondheim. While the journey can be long (about 5-6 hours from Stavanger), it’s more budget-friendly, with tickets costing between NOK 300-600 ($30-60).

By Ferry | For a unique experience, you can arrive in Bergen by ferry. Hurtigruten, known for its coastal cruises, operates daily ferry services along Norway’s coast, with Bergen being one of the main stops. This is a more leisurely option and offers stunning views of the coastline, fjords, and islands along the way. Ferries also connect Bergen to nearby towns like Stavanger and the fjord regions, perfect if you want to explore the western coast of Norway by water.

Pro tip |  If you have time, the combination of train and ferry (Norway in a Nutshell tour) from Oslo to Bergen is a fantastic way to see some of the best scenery Norway has to offer, including the fjords and mountains.

Where to stay

Budget | If you’re looking for a budget-friendly stay, Marken Guesthouse is a solid choice. Located just a short walk from Bergen’s city center and train station, this hostel offers both private rooms and dormitories at reasonable rates. It’s clean, comfortable, and has a cozy communal area where you can meet fellow travelers. You’ll also have access to a shared kitchen, which is a great way to save on dining costs in an otherwise pricey city. Book well in advance, especially in summer, as this hostel is popular with budget travelers and backpackers.

Midrange | For a charming, midrange option, Hotel Park Bergen is a great choice. It’s located in a historic building near the University of Bergen, just a short walk from the city center. The hotel offers individually decorated rooms with a cozy, boutique feel and a great breakfast spread in the morning. Guests love the warm, welcoming atmosphere and the fact that it’s slightly away from the hustle and bustle of the touristy areas. Ask for a room on the upper floors for a better view of Bergen’s scenic rooftops and mountains.

Boutique | For a more boutique experience, Det Hanseatiske Hotel is an excellent option. Located right in the heart of Bryggen (the old Hanseatic wharf), this hotel offers rooms full of character with a mix of historic charm and modern comfort. The exposed wooden beams and rustic decor give it a traditional Norwegian feel, but with all the modern amenities you need. Plus, you’ll be staying steps away from some of Bergen’s top attractions, like the Hanseatic Museum and the Fish Market. Book a room with views of Bryggen for an authentic Bergen experience.

High-End | Opus XVI is one of Bergen’s top hotels. This upscale hotel is housed in a grand historic building, offering spacious and elegantly designed rooms. Located in the city center, it’s within walking distance of most of the major attractions, but it also feels secluded and peaceful. The hotel also offers an excellent on-site restaurant and impeccable service. Perfect for those looking to indulge in some Norwegian luxury.

Cost of travel

Bergen can be pricey, but it offers something for every budget. For accommodation, budget travelers can expect to pay around NOK 300-500 (€25-45) per night for hostels or guesthouses, while midrange hotels range from NOK 800-1,500 (€70-130). Luxury stays cost upwards of NOK 2,000 (€170) per night.

Food prices vary from NOK 150-250 (€13-22) for a meal at a casual cafe, while dining at midrange restaurants costs around NOK 250-400 (€22-35). Public transport is affordable, with fares around NOK 40-50 (€3.50-4.50), and the Bergen Card offers discounts on attractions and free public transport. On average, budget travelers can expect to spend NOK 700-1,000 (€60-85) per day, while midrange travelers might spend NOK 1,500-2,500 (€130-215).

Reinebringen hike, Lofoten islands

Overview

The Reinebringen hike is one of the most iconic and rewarding hikes in Lofoten, offering sweeping views of Reine and the surrounding fjords. Known for its steep climb and unparalleled panoramas, it’s a must-do for anyone visiting the Lofoten Islands. The hike, although short, is intense and requires a good level of fitness, but the effort is well worth it once you reach the top.

The Hike

  • Difficulty: Moderate due to its steep incline.
  • Distance: Approximately 1.5 kilometers each way.
  • Elevation: The trail ascends about 450 meters.
  • Time: 2-3 hours round trip, depending on your pace and time spent enjoying the views at the summit.

The hike starts just outside of Reine, and you’ll quickly find yourself on a steep path with a series of stone steps built by Sherpas to help prevent erosion and improve the safety of the route. Though the trail is well-marked and relatively short, the incline is unrelenting, so be prepared for a leg workout. The final stretch involves a few rocky sections, so take care if the conditions are wet. As you reach the summit, the incredible views make all the effort worthwhile. From the top, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the turquoise fjords, tiny fishing villages, and jagged mountains that define the Lofoten landscape.

What to Expect at the Top

Once you make it to the top of Reinebringen, the views are truly spectacular. The fjords spread out below you like something out of a postcard, and the colorful fishing cabins in Reine look like tiny dots on the water’s edge. Whether you’re there at sunrise, sunset, or midday, the scenery is unforgettable. Be sure to bring a camera – the photos you capture here are bound to be some of the best from your trip.

Tips for the hike

– Safety First: The hike is steep and can be slippery, especially in wet conditions. Proper hiking shoes with good grip are a must.

– Best Time to Go: Early mornings or late evenings during the summer months are ideal for avoiding the crowds and capturing the best light for photos.

– Bring Water: There are no facilities along the trail, so be sure to bring enough water and snacks for the climb.

– Check the Weather: Weather in Lofoten can be unpredictable, so check the forecast before you set out. Avoid hiking in heavy rain or fog, as the trail can become dangerous.

Is It Worth the Hike?

Absolutely. While the Reinebringen hike is demanding, it’s a must for outdoor enthusiasts and anyone looking to experience Lofoten’s natural beauty from a bird’s-eye view. The combination of challenging terrain and stunning rewards makes it one of the best hikes in Norway. Just remember to take your time, stay safe, and soak in the view from the top – it’s one you won’t forget.

Hiking in the Lofoten

Lofoten’s hikes are generally shorter but steeper due to the islands’ unique geology. You won’t find long-distance, gradual trails here—instead, expect routes that take you straight up and down the mountains. Most hikes reward you with panoramic views over the dramatic fjords, tiny fishing villages, and the open sea. Popular trails, like Reinebringen or Nubben, are well-trodden and offer built-in steps to help with erosion and safety, but many lesser-known hikes are more rugged and require good trail-finding skills.

Other popular hikes

Ryten: If you’re looking for a hike that balances effort and reward without being overly strenuous, Ryten might be the perfect choice. This moderate hike takes you to an elevation of around 543 meters, offering awesome views of the white sands of Kvalvika Beach below. The trail begins near Fredvang. While it’s longer compared to some other hikes in Lofoten, the terrain is fairly forgiving, making it accessible for most hikers.

Munkebu Hut: For a more challenging adventure, the hike to Munkebu Hut offers a true view of Lofoten’s rugged beauty. Starting from Sørvågen, this trek takes you through varied terrain, with mountain lakes, streams and rocky outcrops. The elevation gain is tough, and there are a mix of steep climbs and rocky paths. After about five hours, you’ll reach Munkebu Hut, a cabin high in the mountains managed by the Norwegian Trekking Association, where you can stay overnight (check availability, as the hut operates on a first-come, first-served basis).

Bunes Beach: Accessible by ferry from Reine to Vinstad, the hike to Bunes Beach is a completely different experience – simple and peaceful. This relatively easy trek, just about an hour each way, is a great option for a relaxing day. The path is mostly flat, leading to the wide, sandy expanse of secluded Bunes Beach.

Tips for Hiking in Lofoten

– Be Prepared for Steep Terrain: Lofoten’s hikes may be short in distance but are often steep and can be challenging. Good hiking boots with ankle support are essential.

– Weather Can Change Quickly: The weather in Lofoten is notoriously unpredictable, so pack layers, a waterproof jacket, and be prepared for sudden changes.

– Respect Nature: Many of the trails go through pristine natural environments, so be sure to follow Leave No Trace principles, stick to marked paths, and take all your trash with you.

Best Time to Hike

The summer months, from June to September, are the best time for hiking in Lofoten. During this time, you can take advantage of the midnight sun, allowing you to hike late into the evening with full daylight. However, the shoulder seasons of May and October can also be rewarding for those looking to avoid crowds, though weather conditions may be more unpredictable.

Finish

The very end of the trail leads you to the touristy part of the plantation. You can buy drinks and snacks here. To leave, you’ll need to walk up towards the road and unfortunately you’ll need to pay the entrance fee to the plantation (yes, they will stop you on the way out with eagle eyes!).

To get back to Tanah Rata, you will either have to hitchhike (which shouldn’t take long as there are lots of cars heading towards Tanah Rata), or you can flag down a taxi from the road. You can also try calling a Grab, but you’ll probably have to wait a long time as they are not so frequent here.

Hiking in Norway

Trail markers in Norway

In Norway, hiking trails are usually well-marked, making it easier for both experienced and novice hikers to navigate the country’s stunning landscapes. The trail marking system is designed for visibility and simplicity, ensuring you stay on track, even in more remote areas.

The most common type of trail marker in Norway is a red “T” symbol, often painted on rocks, trees, or cairns. This symbol is maintained by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), which manages thousands of kilometers of hiking trails across the country. The red “T” is easily spotted and is often found along the most popular and scenic routes, leading hikers through mountains, valleys, and along coastal trails. In addition to the red “T,” you’ll often see cairns (piles of stones) marking trails, particularly in rocky or exposed areas where there are no trees. In more open terrain, wooden poles are sometimes used to guide hikers along the path. These markers are spaced close enough to remain visible, even in poor weather conditions. At trailheads or key intersections, you’ll find wooden signposts indicating the distance to various destinations, often with estimated hiking times. These signs are very helpful for planning your hike and ensuring you’re on the right path. Norwegian hiking trails are often categorized by difficulty and color-coded on maps and signs:

  • Green: Easy hikes, suitable for beginners or family-friendly trails.
  • Blue: Moderate difficulty, requiring a bit more endurance but still accessible for most hikers.
  • Red: Challenging hikes, often involving steep or rugged terrain.
  • Black: Expert-level trails, which may involve scrambling or technical climbing sections.

Can you visit Lofoten without a car?

Overview

Up north within the Arctic Circle, Norway’s Lofoten Islands are a dream for nature lovers, with plenty of dramatic landscapes, authentic looking fishing villages, and an abundance of outdoor activities. While most travelers opt to explore these islands by car, it’s entirely possible to experience the magic of Lofoten without one. In fact, going car-free can lead to a more immersive, sustainable, and memorable adventure. Here’s how to make the most of your Lofoten experience without the need for four wheels.

Getting there

There are different transport option, depending where you come from:

– From Bodø, take a ferry to Moskenes or a speedboat to Svolvær

– From Oslo, Bergen or Bodø, fly directly into Svolvær or Leknes with Widerøe

– From Tromsø take the Hurtigruten coastal steamer (16-18h) or take a bus to Harstad and then a ferry

Arriving from Bodø, I chose to take the Moskenes ferry both ways. The speedboat to Svolvaer is pretty limited in departures and the times didn’t work for me. It takes longer than the ferry, and can be rougher too. The best part is, the ferry to Moskenes is free if you don’t have a car (you can pre-book tickets for a fee, but don’t do this, half the tickets are always available at boarding).

Getting around

One of the biggest challenges in the Lofoten Islands is actually getting around. All the travel guides and sources I could find make it sound like you absolutely cannot get by without a car or a van. Fortunately this is not true. The car rental in June would’ve cost around 300€ (!) per day, so I was determined to find another solution. Sure, it’s hard to get to certain areas or to explore in-depth on foot, but it’s easy to meaningfully spend 4-5 days and focus on the highlights or on only one area of Lofoten.

1 Buses in Lofoten

Lofoten has a reliable bus network that connects the main towns and villages across the islands The main bus route runs on the E10 highway, between the larger towns like Svolvær, Leknes, and Å (actually this is a combination of different routes, but it generally shows where you can get to by bus.

These buses are operated by Torghatten Nord and Nordland fylkeskommune. They don’t run often – typically a few times a day, with more frequent services in the summer. Use the Reis Nordland website or app to check bus schedules and plan your trips. You can buy tickets on the bus with cash or a card. Alternatively, purchase tickets in advance using the Reis Nordland app, which might offer slight discounts.

2 Cycling Around Lofoten

For an adventurous and eco-friendly way to explore, cycling is a fantastic option. Several shops in Svolvær, Leknes, and Reine offer bike rentals. Some accommodations might also rent out bikes to their guests. Here are the bigger bike rentals:

In Svolvær:

Lofoten Aktiv | Offers bike rentals, including electric bikes. They also provide guided cycling tours.

Lofoten Explorer | Known for kayak and boat tours, they also offer bike rentals. It’s a convenient option if you’re looking to mix activities.

In Leknes:

Intersport Leknes | A sporting goods store that provides bike rentals, especially in the summer. They offer a range of bicycles suitable for exploring the area.

Lofoten Basecamp | Located just outside Leknes, they offer bike rentals along with various other outdoor gear for hire, including tents and hiking equipment.

In Reine:

Reine Adventure | Known for their adventure activities and kayak rentals, Reine Adventure also offers bike rentals for exploring the nearby areas.

Reine Rorbuer | This accommodation provider sometimes offers bike rentals for their guests and can arrange rentals if needed. It’s a good option if you’re staying there or nearby.

The E10 highway, which runs through the islands, has relatively low traffic and stunning views, making it popular with cyclists. There are also quieter side roads and paths where you can cycle at a more leisurely pace. Lofoten’s terrain is varied, so be prepared for some hills and changing weather conditions. That said, the breathtaking landscapes make every pedal worth it.

3 Hiking: Discover Lofoten on Foot

Lofoten is a hiker’s paradise, and many of its most beautiful spots are best explored on foot. Trails like Reinebringen, Kvalvika Beach, and the trek to Munkebu Hut offer some of the most iconic views in Lofoten. These hikes vary in difficulty, so there’s something for everyone. Most trailheads are accessible by bus, and some are even walkable from towns. Always check the bus schedules to ensure you can return after your hike. Wear proper hiking boots and carry a map or GPS, as weather can change rapidly, and some trails can be challenging.

4 Guided Tours and Activities

If you prefer structured experiences, guided tours are an excellent way to see the islands. Here are some of the most popular tours from Svolvær, Leknes, and Reinebringen that you can book on GetYourGuide:

From Svolvær:

RIB Sea Eagle Safari to Trollfjord | This exciting boat tour takes you through the scenic Trollfjord, where you’ll have the chance to spot sea eagles up close. It’s one of the most popular wildlife tours in Lofoten and lasts about 2 hours.

Lofoten Islands 5-Hour Tour | This guided tour explores the islands’ landscapes, from scenic fjords to charming fishing villages like Henningsvær and Nusfjord.

Northern Lights Tour by Van | If you’re coming in winter, this 4-hour small-group tour provides expert guidance on where and when to spot the aurora.

From Leknes:

Private Lofoten Tour with Transfer | Explore Lofoten’s iconic spots, from Vik Beach to the picturesque village of Reine. This private tour allows flexibility, perfect for cruise passengers or with limited time.

Lofoten Landscapes Photography Tour | Designed for photography enthusiasts, this full-day tour takes you to some of Lofoten’s most photogenic locations, including Ramberg and Reine.

Tips

Why is it good, not to drive?

– Cost savings – obviously. As mentioned above, car rental can get extremely expensive. Not only that, but gas in Norway is also expensive, and unless you’re splitting the cost across several people, it adds to an already expensive destination.

– The roads are beautiful, but hard to drive. With lots of blind curves, heavy traffic (compared to the size of the place) and narrow lanes it looks pretty advanced to drive a van here.

– Lack of parking at destinations is very annoying and a big issue especially in high season.

The most important tips

  1. Plan well where to enter and exit the Lofoten – ferries and buses are not that frequent and distances can be big.
  2. Choose your bases carefully: I based my trip in Reine, which has easy access to other highlights, accessible trailheads and organized tours, like kayaking. 
  3. Plan your transit ahead of time: schedule your bus trips between the cities and for your flight in advance. Transportation options also vary by season, with more services available in the summer, so keep this in mind. 
  4. Be ready to bike: you can reach places like Henningsvær and lesser-known trailheads by bike. If you’re not open to cycling, you’ll likely have to stick to more structured, package tours.
  5. Travel light – a great idea on any trip, but especially important here.
  6. Be patient – embrace the slower pace of travel. Waiting for a bus or taking the scenic route often leads to unexpected discoveries.

Where to stay

Stay in a rorbuer (traditional fishermen’s cabin), which is a highlight in itself: Reine Rorbuer offers cozy, traditional rorbuer cabins right on the waterfront with breathtaking views of the surrounding fjords and mountains. The cabins combine rustic charm with modern amenities, so you can have a comfortable and warm stay.

Other than a rorbuer, here are the best options in all 3 towns:

(Reine) Catogården is a unique, cozy guesthouse that offers a blend of comfort and community. The house has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with shared kitchen facilities, beautiful common areas, a sauna and stunning views of the fjords. They also organise kayak tours. 

(Leknes) Scandic Leknes offers a comfortable, modern stay in the heart of Leknes. It’s a great base for exploring the nearby beaches and fjords, with free parking and a convenient location. The hotel offers a cozy atmosphere with a restaurant serving traditional Norwegian dishes, ideal for both solo travelers and families.

(Svolvær) Thon Hotel Lofoten is a high-quality hotel located right by the harbor in Svolvær. Offering modern rooms with spectacular views, it’s a top choice for those who want to explore the town and its surroundings. The hotel also features an excellent restaurant serving local cuisine, and it’s well-known for its eco-friendly initiatives.

My actual itinerary

Day 0: Getting to Reine – hike to Hamnøy
I chose the Bodø – Moskenes ferry to get to the Lofoten, then made my way to Catogården, a comfortable guesthouse in Reine with great views, where I closed the day with a sauna session (and did manage a dip in the arctic water after 3 rounds of sweating!)

Day 1: Reine – Reinebringen Hike
I started the first day in Reine. First up was hiking Reinebringen – steep but totally worth it for the epic views over the fjords and villages.

Day 2: Å and Kayak Tour
On day two, I took a quick day trip to Å by bus, the last village on the archipelago, followed by a kayak tour around the fjords. Seeing Lofoten from the water was a highlight, offering a peaceful change from the mountain hikes.

Day 3: Flakstad – Lofoten Beach Camp and Nubben Hike
I moved to Lofoten Beach Camp in Flakstad, set up camp, and hiked to Nubben near Ramberg Beach. It’s an easy hike with great views over the coastline, and the beach camp was a nice, laid-back spot to relax afterward.

Day 4: Arctic Surfing and Midnight Sun Photography
On my last day, I went arctic surfing – not as cold as it sounds, but you do need a very thick wetsuit. Afterward, I made the most of the midnight sun to capture some amazing photos, with the sun never fully setting in the summer.

Ultimate guide to Malaysia

Malaysia

Many travelers bypass Malaysia, viewing it merely as a transit point during their Southeast Asian backpacking trips. However, Malaysia is one of the most accessible and budget-friendly destinations in the region. With a lenient visa policy allowing stays of up to 90 days, a diverse culinary scene, and a bunch of unique sights, Malaysia offers much to be discovered. Here’s a detailed travel guidea and a 3-week itinerary covering the top attractions in peninsular Malaysia and Borneo, the best places to stay, and tips on navigating the country with ease.

Itinerary

MalaccaKuala LumpurIpohCameron HighlandsPenang – Kuching – Kota Kinabalu – (Semporna) – Kuala Lumpur. Click on the map below to see my pins in Google Maps!

Day 1-2: Malacca

Malacca is your first stop if arriving from Singapore, where most international flights land (in my opinion it’s usually cheaper to fly to Singapore from Europe or US than to Kuala Lumpur). Kick off your Malaysian adventure in the historic city of Malacca, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its rich history and unique architecture. Explore the red-stained Christ Church and the storied Jonker street night market. Take a leisurely river cruise or a trishaw ride around the quaint streets, and don’t miss sampling the local Nyonya cuisine, which blends Chinese ingredients with Malay spices.

Stay: Yote28 (budget), 1825 Gallery Hotel (butique)

Jonker street during the day Malacca, Malaysia

Day 3-5: Kuala Lumpur

Next, take a bus to the dynamic capital, Kuala Lumpur (sadly there is no train connection here). Spend your days visiting iconic landmarks such as the Petronas Twin Towers and Batu Caves. Immerse yourself in the local culture and food scene at the bustling markets of Chinatown and the vibrant streets of Little India. For shopping enthusiasts, the city’s numerous malls are truly impressive and offer everything from luxury brands to local handicrafts (plus much-needed aircon).

Stay: The Bed KLCC (budget), Ritz Carlton (upscale)

Day 6-7: Ipoh

Continue your journey to Ipoh, a cool city often overlooked by tourists, known for its colonial heritage and a booming food scene. Visit the Ipoh Heritage Trail and explore historical buildings like the Ipoh Railway Station and the Birch Memorial Clock Tower. The limestone caves, such as Kek Lok Tong and Perak Cave Temple, offer stunning natural beauty and a peaceful escape from city life. Food is also big here – some people come only to try the famous Ipoh white coffee and the local special dishes (like Lou Wong’s chicken rice, yum!).

Stay: Brownstone (budget), Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat (upscale)

Day 8-10: Cameron Highlands

Head up to the cooler climates of Cameron Highlands, a perfect retreat for nature lovers. Tour the vast tea plantations and go see the Mossy Forest, a unique type of jungle at elevation. The best thing to do here is to go for a hike, through jungle, gorgeous views and working tea plantations.

Eat: pasar malam night market

Day 11-13: Penang (Georgetown)

Drive down to Penang and explore Georgetown, another UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its well-preserved colonial architecture and vibrant street art. Stroll through the streets to witness the fusion of cultures and taste the famed street food, including Char Kuey Teow and Assam Laksa. Visit the Pinang Peranakan Mansion and Fort Cornwallis to delve deeper into the local history.

Eat: Teksen

Day 14-17: Kuching

Fly to Kuching, the capital of Sarawak on the island of Borneo. This charming city is the gateway to the region’s natural wonders. There’s a lot to do here, you’ll need at least 3 nights to see the best parts of Sarawak. Visit the Sarawak Cultural Village to learn about the local indigenous cultures. Explore Bako National Park, where you can see wildlife like proboscis monkeys and unique plant species. Enjoy a sunset cruise on the Sarawak River to end your days on a peaceful note.

Stay: Threehouse B&B (budget), The Waterfront (upscale)

Day 18-20: Kota Kinabalu

Next, head to Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, a city known for its stunning sunsets, bustling markets, and proximity to beautiful islands. Visit the Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and take a day trip to the nearby islands for snorkeling and relaxing on white-sand beaches. There’s also a mountain to be climbed, if that’s your thing. Mount Kinabalu with its 4095 meters is the highest point in Malaysia, and can only be climbed with a guide and permit (making it quite an expensive adventure unfortunately).

Stay: Le Meridien

Proboscis monkey, Bako park Malaysia

When to go

December to March (for West Malaysia): Malaysia’s tropical climate has warm and humid weather year-round, with temperatures typically ranging from 25°C to 32°C in the lowlands. In the highlands temperatures are usually between 15°C and 25°C. The optimal time to visit West Malaysia, including popular destinations like Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and the Cameron Highlands, is from December to March when the weather is relatively dry and sunny, perfect for exploring cities and enjoying the beaches.

March to September (for Borneo): Borneo experiences its dry season from March to September, making it the best period for wildlife spotting and outdoor activities due to minimal rainfall. 

If you want to combine the two, the shoulder months of March to April offer a good balance with fewer tourists and relatively dry weather in both areas.

How to get there

If you’re flying to Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KUL) serves as the main international gateway, with direct flights from cities like London, New York, Sydney, and Tokyo. Singapore can also be an alternative to consider when looking for cheap flights –  you can easily take a bus into Malaysia. Browse through Kiwi or Expedia for a cheap flight from your home country to Malaysia. If you’re currently traveling around Southeast Asia, you can catch affordable flights from neighboring countries with carriers such as AirAsia, a popular low-cost airline in Asia that is headquartered in Kuala Lumpur.

From Nearby Countries

From Singapore | There are several regular buses and trains connecting Singapore with Johor Bahru, and from there you can continue to other parts of Malaysia. The bus journey to Kuala Lumpur typically takes about 5-6 hours. The best idea is to take a bus directly to Malacca, and start your itinerary there. This should cost you around 80 MYR, and it will take you 4 hours. Book your bus ticket from 12Go Asia for this trip. 

From Thailand | If you are currently in Thailand and want to visit Malaysia, buses and trains frequently run from southern Thailand to the Malaysian states of Perlis, Kedah, and Penang. (For example, several buses connect Hat Yai (Thailand) to George Town, Penang. This trip should cost around 40 MYR and will take around 4-5 hours.) For a scenic adventure, take the train from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur, it is slow but a cool adventure, featuring rural and coastal vistas.

How to get around

By Air | Domestic flights provide a quick way to travel from Kuala Lumpur to places like Penang, Kuching, and Kota Kinabalu. The airline with the most frequent flights is AirAsia, but there are several other budget airlines to choose from. See all the domestic flight routes below.

By public transport | There are train and public bus connections between all major tourist destinations. The Keretapi Tanah Melayu (KTM) operates rail services that span the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia from Perlis to Johor, including a route to the scenic Cameron Highlands. Virtually everything else is covered by buses.

By car | Malaysia’s excellent highway network makes driving a practical choice. Car rentals are available at airports and major cities, offering you the freedom to explore at your pace.

Cost of travel

Transportation Costs | Your primary expense is likely to be your flight into Malaysia. Internal flights can vary, but budget airlines like AirAsia offer many routes between cities for as little as $20-$100. For ground travel, buses and trains are extremely economical; intercity train fares can range from $2 to $30, and extensive bus services are similarly priced. Within cities, public transportation such as buses and metro systems usually cost under $1 per ride. Taxis and rideshares are more costly but still reasonable, starting from around $1-$2 for short trips.

Accommodation | Hotel prices in Malaysia offer great flexibility. Mid-range hotels average $40-$100 per night, while budget travelers can find hostels for $10-$20 per night. Many hostels also include kitchens, which can help reduce food costs.

Food and Drink | Malaysia is celebrated for its street food, which not only offers a taste of the local cuisine but is also light on the wallet. Meals at street vendors typically cost between $1-$3. Dining in mid-range restaurants will generally set you back about $5-$15 per meal. For those looking to splurge, a dinner at a high-end restaurant can vary from $20 to $100, depending on the location and menu.

Activities | Entry fees for major attractions in Malaysia are quite reasonable, with most ranging from $1 to $10. Specialized activities, like diving or guided jungle treks, generally cost between $30 and $100, which often includes equipment rental and expert guidance.

For budget-conscious travelers, it’s possible to enjoy a day’s worth of activities, meals, and accommodations for under $30. A more comfortable mid-range budget could average around $50-$150 per day, while indulging in luxury experiences and accommodations could raise daily expenses to over $200. With careful planning and local insights, Malaysia offers an enriching travel experience that can be tailored to suit various budgets.