A tranquil corner of Colombia
Let’s dive into a less-traveled slice of Colombia, the twin coastal hideaways of Capurganá and Sapzurro. These neighboring retreats lie on Colombia’s northern frontier, hemmed in by the dense Darien Gap and the Caribbean Sea. Their isolation is by geography, not by choice, accessible only by boat or plane, setting them apart from the well-trodden tourist paths.
In Capurganá, development has tiptoed in, creating a low-key resort atmosphere that’s still primarily a Colombian vacation spot. It’s a place where the absence of roads has kept the pace leisurely and the ambiance authentic. Don’t look for ATMs or car rentals; here, the transportation of choice might just be a horseback ride along the beach.
A short trek away, Sapzurro offers an even quieter escape. It’s the last dot of civilization before Panama, a small, vibrant community fringed by pristine beaches and backed by lush jungle. It’s so quiet, in fact, that the loudest thing you’ll hear is likely the waves or the local wildlife.
What to do
- 1 Snorkel and dive
- 2 Hike
- 3 Cross into Panama on foot
- 4 See turtles
1 Snorkel and dive
You could theoretically snorkel and even dive around the two towns, if the water is calm, although it will probably not be in high season (Dec-Apr), so don’t expect this trip to be focused on underwater adventures. The best beach around is probably La Miel (see below), but you can also sunbathe and swim in Sapzurro, it has a little beach. To be very honest, I didn’t really feel the urge to go into the water in either towns, especially after the experience in the San Blas islands, it was just a bit too choppy and messy. If you want a beach getaway and have more time in Panama or Colombia I’d rather recommend to stay a longer time in San Blas, the islands around Cartagena, or San Andres and Providencia.
2 Hike
The other big thing to do here is hiking. The way to and from Sapzurro is actually a pretty good day activity, if you come from Capurgana, you can even extend your hike and continue all the way to La Miel. On top of this, from Capurgana you can hike to El Cielo, a nature reserve celebrated for its picturesque waterfall and crystal-clear river—keep your eyes peeled for monkeys and toucans along the way.
3 Cross into Panama on foot
For an unforgettable day trip, trek to Sapzurro and then across the border into Panama to find La Miel beach, a serene spot perfect for relaxation. Since this is a border crossing, take your passport with you (the guards at the checkpoint only look at it and note the number, you will not get a stamp). There are facilities next to the beach, you can have lunch here and pay in USD or COP.
4 See turtles
This is a seasonal activity, but you could even have a chance to witness leatherback turtles laying their eggs in Acandi during the Easter period, a truly remarkable sight.
How to get there
Journeying to Capurganá and Sapzurro is an adventure in itself, a prelude to the serene beauty that awaits. There are no roads to these remote Colombian havens, making the trip there part of the experience.
By bus or plane + boat | Boats are integral to this journey. Whether you pick the longest option from Turbo (3h 10.000 COP), the larger ferries from Necoclí (2 h for 70.000 COP) or the smaller lanchas from Acandí (1h for 40.000 COP), expect to be greeted by the vastness of the ocean and a sense of leaving the modern world behind. Either way you’ll have to get to these places to take the boats. You can either take a bus from Medellín (8h to Turbo for 60.000 COP, 9h to Necoclí for 50.000 COP) or fly from Medellín’s Olaya Herrera Airport to the coastal town of Acandí with airlines like Latam and Avianca.
By plane | In high season you can book a direct flight to Medellín, with Grupo San German or Searca (which operates charter flights). I took the former to fly to Medellín, but it seems like they are not operating at the moment.
By boat from Panama | This is quite another story…if you are coming from Panama you probably end up in Capurgana because you chose the adventurous option of slowly crossing the Panamanian indigenous (Guna Yala) islands, either by sailboat or speedboat. You can read about this crossing in this detailed post. Make sure to dedicate a few days in Capurgana / Sapzurro upon arrival, especially in high season when the sea can be rough. My group was stranded in Capurgana for 3 days, actually not because of the weather but because the computer of the immigration office was malfunctioning and they confiscated our passports and told us to wait :’D. This is how there is a gap of 3 days between my exit stamp in Panama and my entry stamp in Colombia. So as you see, anything can happen here!
Traveling between the two towns
Once in Capurganá, to reach Sapzurro, you again have two options. The most straightforward is to take a local boat (lancheros) from Capurganá’s dock, which offers a very short ride along the coast. These boats typically require a minimum of 3 or 4 passengers and are very cheap (10.000 COP) and take a few minutes. If you require an early (or late) start at a time when nobody else wants to go, you can always ask any local – they will find you someone to take you over, albeit for a much higher price of course.
You can also do the 2 hour hike through the jungle. This is not a simple road connecting the two towns, you actually have to hike, so taking all your luggage with you is only an option if you are relatively fit. The hike is not so hard and beautiful (going through lush rainforest, with glimpses on the Caribbean coast down below), but it is very hot and humid, so go prepared.
Where to stay
In Capurgana you’ll definitely find more company, but for me it made more sense to stay in Sapzurro and relax. I stayed in La Posada, a home-stay that has very high reviews, unsurprisingly. This was probably the best place I stayed at during my 3 months Colombia trip. The owners are very friendly, the room and the view beautiful, and everything the host cooks is divine.
Tip | There are no ATMs in town and virtually no Wifi – be prepared! A Colombian SIM card and its mobile internet will probably work, but don’t expect to do work or stream movies here. You can exchange dollars (useful if coming from Panama), but don’t overdo it – the exchange rate is not very good.
What to eat
Well that will be a pretty easy topic – fresh fish with coconut rice and salad, probably accompanied by a fresh juice, either pressed or blended with water or milk. This set menu will gloriously relieve you of all food-related decision fatigue, both in terms of what to order (well I mean, you can pick the fish, but do you actually even know the difference? Just take the recommended one) and in terms of price (the menu was uniformly 30,000 COP when I was visiting, no matter if it was served in someone’s backyard, a hotel or a restaurant). Hope you like fish!
