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Palomino, Colombia’s chill surf town

Palomino, Colombia: Overview

Palomino is a small beach town on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, known for its laid-back vibe, long stretches of sand, and jungle-covered mountains in the background. Located between Tayrona National Park and La Guajira, it’s often added as a relaxing stop after the more active parts of a Colombia itinerary.

Unlike Cartagena or even Tayrona, Palomino feels much more low-key. There’s no major sightseeing checklist here – you come for the atmosphere, slow pace, and a mix of beach time and nature.

One of the most popular things to do is river tubing, where you float down the Palomino River through the jungle and end up at the sea. It’s simple, a bit chaotic, and surprisingly fun.

If you’re traveling through northern Colombia, Palomino fits perfectly into a route with Tayrona, Minca, and Cartagena, and I include it in my 2-week Colombia itinerary as a short but worthwhile stop.

What to do

  • 1   Go river tubing
  • 2   Relax on the beach
  • 3   Visit Tayrona National Park
  • 4   Try surfing in Palomino
  • 5    Go see flamingos
  • 6    Eat
  • 7    Enjoy the slow vibe (this is the real reason to come)

1 Go river tubing

River tubing is the main activity in Palomino. You’ll take a moto taxi up to the river, hike a short distance, then float down on an inflatable tube through the jungle until you reach the ocean. It’s a bit unorganized, but that’s part of the experience.

  • duration: ~2-3 hours

  • cost: affordable

  • difficulty: easy

The first part of the river is calm and surrounded by jungle, and toward the end you’ll start to see the mountains open up as you approach the coast.

Tip: go earlier in the day to avoid crowds and strong sun.

2 Relax on the beach

Palomino’s beach is long, wide, and mostly undeveloped, which gives it a much more raw and natural feel compared to places like Cartagena. It’s perfect for long walks, sunset views and relaxing with a book. However, the sea here can be rough, so swimming is not always ideal. Always check conditions before going in.

Tip: If you want a more comfortable beach setup, head toward beach clubs or hostels like Primaluna Beach Hostel, where you can grab a drink or food and use their facilities.

2 Visit Tayrona National Park

Tayrona National Park is one of the highlights of Colombia’s Caribbean coast, and it’s very easy to combine with Palomino. Whether you visit as a day trip or stay overnight, it’s a natural next stop on any itinerary through this region. That said, Tayrona doesn’t always live up to the overly polished Instagram expectations. It can be hot, crowded, and more physically demanding than people expect. But if you go in with realistic expectations, it’s still absolutely worth visiting for the combination of jungle hiking and wild beaches.

I cover everything in detail here: Tayrona National Park travel guide

How to get to Tayrona from Palomino

Getting from Palomino to Tayrona is simple and cheap. All you need to do is catch a local bus heading toward Santa Marta from the main road (the Troncal del Caribe highway). Best spot to wait: Corner of Carrera 6a and 7a in Palomino (near the main junction). Buses run frequently throughout the day, no booking needed. Just flag one down and tell the driver “Tayrona”. Price: ~8,000–10,000 COP. Duration: ~40–50 minutes. The El Zaino entrance (main entrance) will be on the right-hand side. The driver will usually call it out, but it’s always worth confirming when you get on.

Getting back to Palomino

To return, simply stand outside the Tayrona entrance and flag down any bus heading toward Palomino or Riohacha. Buses come regularly and seats usually free after people get off at the park, so no need to plan ahead

When to go (important)

If you’re visiting Tayrona as a day trip, timing makes a big difference. Aim to leave Palomino early and arrive at the entrance before 8am. This helps you to avoid crowds from Santa Marta, hike in cooler temperatures and enjoy the beaches before peak hours.

4 Try surfing in Palomino

Palomino isn’t a classic surf destination, but you can surf here under the right conditions – especially if you’re a beginner looking to try it for the first time. The beach is fully exposed to the open sea, which means currents can be strong and conditions change quickly. Because of this, surfing here is very weather-dependent and not something you should plan your entire trip around. That said, on calmer days, it’s a fun and easy place to take a first lesson in the whitewater.

What to expect

  • best conditions: early morning (before the wind picks up)

  • wave type: mostly whitewater, not clean rolling waves

  • level: beginner-friendly only

You’ll find a few informal surf instructors operating along the beach, especially on the right-hand side near places like Dreamer Hostel. Lessons are typically: arranged locally (not online), organized on short notice depending on conditions and are very casual and flexible. Lesson price: ~120,000–160,000 COP (€25–35) (includes board + instruction). Board rentals may be available, but not guaranteed, and depend on the day. The easiest way to book is to ask your accommodation or walk along the beach, check conditions and talk directly to instructors. Don’t book in advance – just decide based on the weather.

5 Take a day trip to Los Flamencos Natural Park

One of the best things to do near Palomino is visiting Los Flamencos Natural Park, located near Camarones, about 1–1.5 hours away. This protected area is known for its pink flamingos, coastal lagoons, and desert-like landscapes – a completely different environment from Palomino’s setting. This is one of the most unique day trips in the region and often overlooked. You can visit on a guided tour, which usually includes:

  • transport

  • a boat trip across the lagoon

  • flamingo spotting

  • sometimes a local lunch

6 Eat

Food in Palomino is surprisingly good for such a small place, with a mix of local and international options.

Casa Cocotte (must-visit) | One of the best restaurants in Palomino. A bit more upscale than average, with excellent food and a relaxed atmosphere. Great for a proper dinner after a day at the beach. Best for: high-quality meals and a nicer dining experience

Primaluna Beach Hostel (pizza + beach vibe) | A great spot right on the beach with surprisingly good pizza and a relaxed setting. Perfect for lunch or sunset drinks by the sea. Best for: casual food with a beach view

Local restaurants | You’ll also find many small local spots serving the usual – fresh fish, rice and coconut dishes, arepas…These are usually the cheapest options and worth trying for a more local experience.

7 Enjoy the slow vibe (this is the real reason to come)

Palomino is one of those places where the best thing to do is… not much.

  • hang out in cafés

  • watch the sunset

  • read a book

  • take it slow

If you’ve just come from Tayrona or a busy city, this is the perfect place to reset. If you do want a little bit more action, you can also explore the jungle and surroundings. Palomino sits right at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains, so you’re never far from nature. You can take short jungle walks, visit nearby rivers and explore waterfalls in the area. It’s not as developed as Minca, but that’s part of the charm.

How much time you need

1-2 Days | This is enough to relax, do river tubing and enjoy the beach. Staying longer is only worth it if you really want to slow down, plan on taking beginner surf classes here or plan to visit Tayrona several times and are using Palomino as a base.

How to get to Palomino

Getting to Palomino is relatively straightforward, but it’s not a place you can fly to directly. Almost everyone arrives via Santa Marta, which is the closest airport and main transport hub on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Here are all your options – from budget backpacker to comfortable traveler:

Step 1 – By Plane | Fly to Santa Marta (or Cartagena). The closest airport to Palomino is Santa Marta (SMR), about 1.5–2 hours away. There are frequent domestic flights from Medellín and Bogotá. Browse flights on Skyscanner to compare prices.

By Local BusThe best budget option – cheap, easy, and surprisingly efficient. Go to Santa Marta Public Market (Mercado Público) OR Santa Marta Bus Terminal. Look for buses heading to: Riohacha / La Guajira / Palomino. Tell the driver: “Palomino”. You don’t need to pre-book,  just show up. Key details:

  • Duration: 1.5–2 hours

  • Price: ~10,000–15,000 COP (€2–4)

  • Frequency: every 15–30 minutes (6am–6pm)

  • Drop-off: main road in Palomino (you walk into town). Buses literally stop anywhere along the highway, including Palomino.

If you prefer planning ahead, you can book buses via BudBud

By Shuttle or shared transport | The best for comfort vs price. If you don’t want to deal with local buses (especially with luggage), this is a great middle ground. Companies like Marsol run door-to-door shuttles along the coast. These are easy to book via Bookaway, your hotel and WhatsApp local operators. Key details:

  • Duration: ~1.5–2 hours

  • Price: ~40,000–70,000 COP (€10–15)

  • Pickup: your hotel

  • Good for: luggage, comfort, ease

By Taxi or private transfer | The best for convenience. This is the easiest but most expensive option. Worth it if you’re in a group, arriving or traveling at night or want zero hassle. Key details:

  • Duration: ~1.5 hours

  • Price: ~120,000–150,000 COP (€30–40)

  • Door-to-door service

If you prefer planning ahead, you can book buses via BudBud

By Car | Renting a car is technically possible, but not ideal. Pros: Flexibility (you can can combine with Tayrona, Minca, etc.). Cons: roads are simple (just one coastal highway), there is no need for a car in Palomino itself, parking is limited and driving in Colombia can be pretty chaotic.

Getting Around Palomino

Palomino is small and easy to navigate.

  • walking is enough for most things

  • moto taxis are available for longer distances

  • no need to rent a car

One of the best things about traveling in Colombia in general is how easy it is to move between destinations, despite the country’s size and varied geography. Domestic flights connect major cities, while long-distance buses reach smaller towns and more remote areas. In cities, ride-hailing apps make getting around simple and affordable. You generally don’t need to rent a car, even as a solo traveler, as transport is widely available and commonly used by locals.

I explain exactly which transport to use (and when), how to book tickets, and common mistakes travelers make in my complete guide: How to Get Around in Colombia: Flights, Buses & Transport Tips

Where to stay in Palomino

Palomino has a good mix of hostels, boutique hotels, and eco-stays, mostly spread along the main road and toward the beach.

Casa del Pavo Real (boutique jungle stay) | A beautiful eco-lodge surrounded by jungle, slightly outside the main town. It feels peaceful and remote, with a pool and well-designed rooms. Best for: couples or travelers who want a quiet, nature-focused stay

Dreamer Palomino (social hostel) | A popular hostel with a pool, bar, and social atmosphere. It’s well-organized and a good place to meet other travelers. Best for: solo travelers and a social vibe

Aite Eco Resort (mid-range beachfront) | Located directly on the beach, this is one of the more comfortable options in Palomino. It combines a great location with more privacy and comfort. Best for: beach lovers who want a bit more comfort

Palomino Travel Tips

  • bring cash (ATMs are limited)

  • don’t expect luxury – it’s still quite rustic

  • the sea can be rough, so be cautious when swimming

  • book accommodation in advance during peak season

Colombia in general is one of the easiest countries in South America to travel independently, but a few local quirks can catch first-time visitors off guard – from regional safety differences and cash usage to transport logistics and the way the climate changes depending on altitude.

Understanding these small details ahead of time will make your trip much smoother and help you travel more confidently, especially if you’re visiting multiple regions or traveling solo. Before your trip, I recommend reading:

Essential Colombia Travel Tips (What I Wish I Knew Before Visiting)
Is Colombia Safe for Solo Female Travelers?

FAQ: Palomino, Colombia

Is Palomino worth visiting?
Yes, if you’re looking for a relaxed beach destination in Colombia with fewer crowds than Cartagena. It’s best for slowing down rather than sightseeing.

What is Palomino known for?
Palomino is known for river tubing, its laid-back vibe, and its location where jungle meets the Caribbean coast.

Can you swim in Palomino?
You can swim, but the sea can be rough. Always check conditions before entering the water.

How many days do you need in Palomino?
1 to 2 days is enough for most travelers. It’s mainly a relaxing stop rather than a sightseeing destination.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Tayrona National Park Travel Guide, Colombia

Tayrona National Park Overview

Tayrona National Park is one of the most iconic places to visit in Colombia, where dense jungle meets wild Caribbean coastline. Located just outside Santa Marta, this protected area is known for its hiking trails, remote beaches, and dramatic scenery with huge granite boulders and palm-lined bays.

Most people come here for the combination of jungle hiking and beach time, which is quite rare. You’ll walk through tropical forest, cross small streams, and eventually arrive at beaches like Cabo San Juan, one of the most photographed spots in Colombia.

Tayrona is not a “relax-on-the-beach-all-day” destination. Getting to the best beaches requires hiking, and the conditions can be hot and humid. But that’s exactly what makes it feel more raw and untouched compared to other Caribbean destinations.

If you are traveling through northern Colombia, Tayrona fits perfectly into a route with Minca, Palomino, and Cartagena. I include it as a key stop in my 2-week Colombia itinerary.

Is Tayrona National Park worth visiting?

Yes, but only if you know what to expect.

Tayrona is one of the most popular destinations in Colombia, and it can get crowded, especially during peak season. The heat, humidity, and hiking also make it more physically demanding than it looks on Instagram. That said, it’s still absolutely worth visiting. The landscapes are unique, the beaches are stunning, and the overall experience feels very different from anywhere else in the country.

To enjoy Tayrona, it’s important to start early, pack light and be mindful of the sun!

What to do

  • 1   Hike
  • 2   Beach
  • 3   Eat
  • 4   Boat

Tayrona hiking route (what to expect)

Classic route: El Zaino entrance

The classic route is: El Zaino → Arrecifes → La Piscina → Cabo San Juan. Total hiking time: ~2–3 hours one way. Terrain: mostly flat, but hot and humid. Shade: partial jungle cover. Note: Arrecifes beach looks beautiful but is not safe for swimming due to strong currents. The best swimming spots are: La Piscina, Cabo San Juan

Alternative route: Calabazo entrance

If you want a quieter, more off-the-beaten-path experience, you can enter via Calabazo. It is less crowded, more jungle-focused, longer and slightly more demanding. It’s best for repeat visitors or those who enjoy hiking more than beaches.

The beaches of Tayrona National Park

One of the main reasons to visit Tayrona is its coastline – a series of wild, palm-fringed beaches connected by jungle hiking trails. What many people don’t realize before visiting is that you can’t swim everywhere, and getting to the best beaches takes time and effort. Starting from the main entrance at El Zaino, the beaches are spread out along the hiking route, each with very different conditions and atmosphere. Here’s what to expect, from closest to farthest:

Playa Cañaveral

This is one of the first beaches you’ll reach if you take the shuttle from the entrance. It’s scenic and relatively quiet, but not suitable for swimming due to strong currents. There’s a small protected area nearby (La Piscinita), but most people continue further into the park.

Playa Arrecifes

One of the most dramatic beaches in Tayrona, with huge waves and rugged coastline. It looks stunning, but swimming is strictly forbidden here and can be dangerous. There are a few restaurants and accommodation options, so it’s a common stop along the way.

Playa Arenilla

A smaller and less crowded stretch of beach between Arrecifes and La Piscina. It’s more peaceful and less developed, but still not ideal for swimming, especially compared to what comes next.

La Piscina

This is one of the first places where you can actually enjoy the water. Protected by a natural reef, La Piscina has calm, clear water that’s safe for swimming. You’ll find small stands selling drinks, fruit, and snacks here, making it a great place to take a break.

Cabo San Juan

The most famous beach in Tayrona – and for good reason. Two small bays, separated by a rocky viewpoint and lined with palm trees, create one of the most iconic landscapes in Colombia. This is one of the best places to swim in Tayrona, as long as you stay within the safe areas. There’s a restaurant, accommodation (hammocks and tents), and plenty of facilities. Downside: it can get crowded, especially midday, so I recommend arriving early or staying overnight.

Playa Nudista

A quieter, more remote beach beyond Cabo San Juan. As the name suggests, it’s a nudist-friendly area, though not everyone participates. It’s far less visited, but there are no facilities and swimming is not recommended.

3 Food and facilities in Tayrona

You won’t go hungry or thirsty in Tayrona – but it’s definitely not the best value for money, and options are more limited than you might expect. Along the main hiking route (especially at Arrecifes, La Piscina, and Cabo San Juan), you’ll find small restaurants and snack stands selling basic meals, drinks, and fruit. Think simple dishes like fried fish, chicken, rice, arepas, and fresh juices. At Cabo San Juan, there’s a larger restaurant with full meals, while smaller stands along the way sell snacks, coconut water, and fresh fruit.

What to expect

  • Prices are higher than outside the park

  • Portions are decent, but quality is basic

  • Payment is usually cash only

  • Options become more limited the further you go

What to bring

You’re allowed to bring your own food into the park (except alcohol), and I highly recommend it. Bring:

  • snacks (nuts, protein bars, fruit)

  • reusable water bottle or

  • extra water (bottled water inside the park is expensive, so it’s worth carrying some with you)

Facilities in the park

Don’t expect anything luxurious – Tayrona is more about nature than comfort. Facilities are basic but sufficient for most travelers:

  • toilets at main stops (paid in some areas)

  • showers at campsites

  • lockers at Cabo San Juan

  • limited electricity and no reliable WiFi

Fried fish with coconut rice and salad in Colombia

Best time to visit Tayrona

Tayrona can be visited year-round, but conditions vary. The best months are December to March and July to August. These tend to be drier and better for hiking. Avoid if possible: heavy rainy periods (trails get muddy). Also note: The park closes a few times per year for conservation (check before visiting!).

How to get to Tayrona National Park

Most travelers visit Tayrona from Santa Marta, which is the main gateway. From Santa Marta, you have a few options:

Bus (cheapest option) | Local buses run frequently from Santa Marta to the main entrance (El Zaino). The journey takes about 1 hour and costs about 15 000 COP. There are two places where you can take the bus from Santa Marta to Tayrona: 1) At the central bus station outside the city or 2) At the Mercado Publico (Market) at Calle 11 con Carrera 11  (it’s a city bus with no trunk for your luggage!)

By boat | You could also reach the park yourself via boat, however, it’s a bit complicated. If you’re going to the most famous beach, Cabo San Juan, you can take a taxi from Santa Marta to Taganga (about 20 minutes). From there, you have to find a boat to Tayrona National Natural Park – ask one of the boat companies on the dock (I recommend “Chez Boaz”). The boat ride lasts 1h and costs about 120,000 COP. Note: The last boats leave before 9h30 and return from Cabo San Juan around 4 pm. The sea is rough from October to March, so this boat ride can be scary for people who are not used to it. I’d personally rather simply hike in, or take a boat tour than try to organise it myself.

Taxi or private transfer | More comfortable and faster, especially if traveling with luggage.

Organized tours | Possible, but I don’t recommend them unless you’re very short on time, or if they involve boat travel to secluded beaches. Tayrona is better experienced independently.

Tayrona entrances (important)

There are two main entrances:

El Zaino (main entrance) | This is where most travelers enter. It gives access to the main hiking route toward Cabo San Juan. If it’s your first visit, use El Zaino!

Calabazo | Less crowded and more hiking-focused. You’ll skip some beaches but get a more off-the-beaten-path experience.

Where to stay in Tayrona

You have two main options: stay inside or outside the park.

Inside is best for experience, but more basic. Options include: hammocks, tents, ecohabs (more upscale accommodation, similar to a hotel). Staying overnight lets you enjoy the park early morning and sunset without crowds.

Outside the park will be more comfortable and flexible. The best areas are: near El Zaino entrance and between Tayrona and Santa Marta. This is a good option if you prefer proper hotels and air conditioning.

Best hotels inside

Ecohabs Tequendama (luxury) | If you want comfort inside the park, this is it. This is the only real “luxury” option inside Tayrona and is run as the park’s official hotel. It has private ecohuts with ocean views and restaurant and facilities on site. Located at Cañaveral beach (near entrance). Best for: couples, comfort, short stays without hiking deep into the park.

Camping Tequendama (Arrecifes) (basic) |  This is one of the main accommodation hubs inside the park. It has tents, hammocks, and simple cabins and is located at Arrecifes, along the main hiking route about 1 hour from El Zaino entrance. Best for: most travelers (it’s a good balance between comfort and location)

Cabo San Juan (basic) | Hammocks & tents at the best location. This is where most people want to stay, right next to two swimmable beaches. A restaurant and lockers are available. Best for the “classic Tayrona experience”. Downsides: crowded and sometimes dirty, basic facilities, limited availability

Ecolodge Playa Brava (basic) | The best off-the-beaten-path option, if you want something quieter and more unique: remote eco-lodge inside the park, jungle + beach setting, fewer visitors. Best for people who want a more secluded experience.

Best hotels outside

Senda Koguiwa / Senda Kokkos (boutique) | These are some of the nicest boutique stays near Tayrona, set in a lush jungle environment close to the park entrance. They offer comfortable rooms, pools, and a peaceful atmosphere while still being convenient for visiting the park. Best for: mid-range travelers who want comfort, nature, and a bit of style without staying inside the park

Masaya Tayrona (social boutique) | Masaya Tayrona is a stylish mix between a boutique hotel and a social hostel, with a large pool, jungle setting, and a great atmosphere. It’s a popular choice among solo travelers and those looking to meet others while still enjoying a more elevated stay. Best for: solo travelers and those who want a social but comfortable base near Tayrona

Villa Playa Tayrona / Casa Tayrona Los Naranjos (beach stay) | These beachfront properties are located just outside Tayrona and offer a more relaxed coastal experience with direct access to the sea. They combine comfort with proximity to the park, making them a great option if you want beach time without sacrificing convenience. Best for: travelers who want a beach stay with easy access to Tayrona

Tayrona Travel Tips

What to pack for Tayrona

  • lightweight clothing

  • hiking shoes or sandals

  • swimsuit

  • plenty of water

  • snacks

  • insect repellent

  • cash (very important, limited card payments)

Important tips for visiting Tayrona

  • Start early to avoid heat and crowds

  • Do not swim at unsafe beaches (especially Arrecifes)

  • Bring enough cash

  • Pack light, you’ll carry everything

  • Respect park rules and nature

Colombia is one of the easiest countries in South America to travel independently, but a few local quirks can surprise first-time visitors – from regional safety differences and cash usage to transport logistics and changing climates depending on altitude.Understanding these small details ahead of time will make your trip much smoother and help you travel more confidently, especially if you’re visiting multiple regions or traveling solo. Before your trip, I recommend reading:

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Medellín Travel Guide: What to Know Before Visiting Colombia’s Most Famous City

Overview

Medellín is Colombia’s most talked-about city – and for many travelers, an unavoidable stop on any Colombia itinerary. Located in a narrow valley in the Andes Mountains, Medellín is known as the “City of Eternal Spring” thanks to its mild year-round climate and green mountain surroundings. Once associated with its turbulent past, the city has undergone one of the most remarkable urban transformations in Latin America, investing heavily in public transport, public spaces, and community projects.

Today, Medellín is a mix of innovation, nightlife, creative culture, and complex realities. It’s not Colombia’s most beautiful destination, but it offers important context for understanding the country’s modern identity.

Quick facts

  • Elevation: 1,500 m

  • Region: Antioquia

  • Best stay length: 2–3 days

  • Best for: culture, urban transformation, day trips

  • Travel style fit: short stop between slower destinations

Planning your route? Start with my 2-week Colombia Itinerary

What to do

  • 1   Explore Comuna 13
  • 2   Plaza Botero & Downtown Medellín
  • 3   Ride the Metrocable & Visit Parque Arví
  • 4   Pueblito Paisa & Nutibara Hill
  • 5   Barefoot Park & Parques del Río
  • 6   Food, Coffee & Rooftops in El Poblado
  • 7   Take a Day Trip to Guatapé & El Peñol

1 Explore Comuna 13 (With a Local Guide)

Comuna 13 has become one of Medellín’s most visited neighborhoods, known today for colorful murals, street performances, and outdoor escalators climbing steep hillsides. What makes visiting meaningful is understanding the history behind it. The neighborhood was once heavily affected by violence and isolation, and many tours are now led by local residents who share personal stories about how the community has changed. Walking through Comuna 13 today feels energetic and creative: music plays from balconies, artists paint new murals, and food vendors line the streets. However, tourism here works best when approached respectfully rather than as just a photo stop.

A guided tour makes a big difference here. Guides explain the social history behind the murals and how tourism supports local projects rather than just turning the area into a photo stop. Expect:

  • street art explaining social change

  • viewpoints over the city

  • dance performances and local music

  • small cafés and snack stalls along the route

2 Plaza Botero & Downtown Medellín

Downtown Medellín offers a completely different atmosphere from El Poblado. It feels busy, chaotic, and intensely local – which can be fascinating but also overwhelming if you’re not used to large Latin American cities.

Plaza Botero is the main highlight, home to more than 20 oversized bronze sculptures by Colombian artist Fernando Botero, whose distinctive style exaggerates proportions in playful and recognizable ways. Next to the plaza, the Museum of Antioquia provides insight into regional history and Colombian art, making it a worthwhile stop if you want cultural context beyond Medellín’s modern image. The surrounding streets are lively, filled with vendors, commuters, and markets, but this area requires more awareness than tourist neighborhoods.

Visit during daylight hours, keep valuables out of sight, and consider combining the visit with a guided walking tour if you want deeper historical understanding.

3 Ride the Metrocable & Visit Parque Arví

Medellín’s cable cars are part of the public transport system, not just a tourist attraction. Originally built to connect hillside communities with the city center, they became a global example of innovative urban planning. Riding the Metrocable gives you sweeping views across the valley while showing how Medellín physically connects neighborhoods once isolated from opportunity.

The easiest route for visitors is to take Metro Line A → transfer at Acevedo Station → Line K or Line L.

If you continue all the way to Parque Arví, the scenery changes quickly from urban landscape to forested highlands. The park offers walking trails, viewpoints, local markets on weekends, and noticeably cooler air compared to the city center. It’s a good escape if Medellín starts to feel intense.

Avoid rush hours (7-9am and 5-7pm) when locals commute and cabins become crowded

How to buy Metrocable tickets

You don’t need a special ticket. The cable car is integrated into the metro system. The metro is clean, organized, and widely considered one of the safest ways to move around Medellín during the day. Here’s how to buy:

  • Buy a rechargeable Cívica card at any metro station ticket counter.

  • Load credit onto the card (cash or card accepted).

  • One fare covers metro + Metrocable transfers within the system.

4 Pueblito Paisa & Nutibara Hill

For one of the easiest panoramic views of Medellín, head to Nutibara Hill, located near the city center. At the top sits Pueblito Paisa, a small reconstruction of a traditional Antioquian village complete with a church, colorful buildings, and central plaza. While it’s somewhat touristy, the viewpoint overlooking the valley is worth the visit, especially around sunset when the city lights begin to appear. It’s a relaxed stop compared to downtown and a good way to understand the architectural style typical of rural Antioquia towns. It’s an easy taxi or Uber ride from El Poblado or Laureles and works well as a short late-afternoon activity.

You’ll also find:

  • souvenir stalls

  • cafés and snack vendors

  • shaded walking paths around the hill

5 Barefoot Park & Parques del Río

If Medellín starts to feel noisy or overwhelming, Barefoot Park (Parque de los Pies Descalzos) offers a surprisingly calm break. Designed as an interactive public space, the park encourages visitors to slow down and literally walk barefoot through sand, grass, and shallow water features. The idea is simple: reconnect with nature and escape the pace of city life for a moment.

Nearby, Parques del Río stretches along the Medellín River with walking paths, green spaces, and modern urban design that reflects the city’s investment in public areas. Locals come here to relax, exercise, or meet friends in the evenings, giving visitors a glimpse of everyday life beyond tourist neighborhoods. It’s not a major sightseeing stop, but it’s a pleasant addition if you want to see Medellín’s softer side.

6 Food, Coffee & Rooftops in El Poblado

El Poblado is the social heart of Medellín.

Things to do here:

  • café hopping in Provenza

  • rooftop sunset drinks

  • Colombian specialty coffee tastings

  • food tours introducing regional dishes

7 Take a Day Trip to Guatapé & El Peñol

A visit to Guatapé is often the highlight of time spent in Medellín and easily one of the most beautiful day trips in Colombia. Located about two hours from the city, the town is famous for its brightly painted houses decorated with colorful bas-relief panels called zócalos, each telling stories about local traditions and daily life. The main attraction nearby is El Peñol, a massive granite rock rising dramatically above the surrounding lakes. Climbing the roughly 740 steps to the top rewards you with panoramic views over islands and waterways that almost resemble a flooded archipelago.

Most travelers combine:

  • climbing El Peñol

  • exploring Guatapé’s streets

  • lakeside lunch or boat ride

You can visit independently by bus from Terminal Norte, but many travelers prefer an organized day tour since transport logistics are simpler and time-efficient. If you only plan one excursion from Medellín, this is the one to prioritize.

Read my Guatapé Travel Guide for details

Landscape of the Peñol-Guatapé Reservoir, a man-made lake near Guatapé, Colombia

How much time you need

Most travelers only need 2 to 3 days in Medellín to experience the city’s highlights without feeling overwhelmed. Medellín works best as a cultural stop between Colombia’s slower destinations like the Coffee Region or Caribbean coast rather than as a long standalone stay, unless you are visiting as a digital nomad or planning to base yourself in the city. A comfortable pace looks like this:

  • Day 1 | Explore El Poblado or Laureles + ride the Metrocable

  • Day 2 | Comuna 13 and downtown sights

  • Day 3 | Day trip to Guatapé and El Peñol

How to get there

By Car | Driving to Medellín is possible but generally not recommended for first-time visitors unfamiliar with Colombian road conditions. Mountain routes include steep curves, heavy truck traffic, and changing weather conditions. Within the city, traffic congestion and limited parking can make driving stressful. If renting a car, it’s usually better for exploring the Coffee Region rather than navigating Medellín itself.

By Plane | Most travelers arrive via José María Córdova International Airport (MDE), located about 45 minutes outside the city near Rionegro. Domestic flights connect Medellín with: Cartagena, Bogotá, Santa Marta, Pereira (Coffee Region), Cali. Flying is often the most practical option in Colombia due to mountainous geography and long travel times by road.

To get from the airport to the city, you can choose between the airport bus to San Diego station (budget option, great if you arrive during the day), authorized airport taxis (fixed price), Uber or ride apps (widely used), Private transfer (most comfortable for late arrivals). Expect the journey to El Poblado to take 45–60 minutes, depending on traffic.

By Bus | Long-distance buses connect Medellín to most major Colombian cities. The main terminals of Medellin are Terminal del Norte – routes to Guatapé, Bogotá, and the Caribbean coast and Terminal del Sur – routes toward southern destinations. Bus travel is affordable but can be slow due to winding mountain roads. For shorter regional journeys, buses are comfortable and reliable. For longer trips flights might be better and equally cheap. Typical travel times: Bogotá: 9-11 hours, Salento / Coffee Region: 6-8 hours, Cartagena: 12+ hours.

Getting Around Medellin

Medellín has one of the best public transport systems in Colombia, and getting around is relatively straightforward once you understand the layout.

Metro & Metrocable

The Medellín Metro is clean, efficient, and easy to use – something locals are extremely proud of. The system connects: El Poblado (via nearby stations), Laureles (short taxi connection required), downtown areas and cable cars reaching hillside neighborhoods. One fare typically includes transfers within the system. The Metrocable is both transport and sightseeing experience, offering panoramic views across the valley.

To use it:

  1. Buy a rechargeable Cívica card at any metro station.

  2. Load credit onto the card.

  3. Tap in and out for metro and Metrocable rides.

Uber & Ride Apps

Uber, DiDi, and Cabify are widely used and often the easiest way to move between neighborhoods. They are especially useful at night, when returning to your accommodation or for reaching viewpoints or restaurants outside walking areas. Prices are generally affordable compared to Europe or North America.

Walking

Medellín is not a fully walkable city due to its size and layout, but certain neighborhoods are pedestrian-friendly. Best areas for walking: El Poblado (Provenza area), Laureles, Envigado center. Avoid long walks between districts – distances are larger than they appear on maps, and not all parts are equally safe.

Local Buses & Taxis

Local buses are extensive but can be confusing for short-term visitors without Spanish skills. Street taxis are common, but using ride apps is usually simpler and avoids price negotiations.

Medellín feels very different depending on how you move through it. Use the metro during the day and ride apps at night as the easiest and most comfortable combination.

Where to stay

Where you stay in Medellín strongly affects your experience. Medellín feels very different by neighborhood. Choosing where to stay matters more here than in most Colombian cities.

El Poblado (Best for First-Time Visitors)

The easiest and most convenient area for travelers. The neighborhood has heavy police presence and tourism infrastructure, contributing to its reputation as one of the safest areas for visitors.

Why stay here

  • safest-feeling environment for newcomers

  • restaurants and cafés everywhere

  • easy transport access

  • strong hotel infrastructure

574 Hotel (Budget) | A stylish budget-friendly option in a quiet part of El Poblado with modern rooms and excellent value for money. Ideal if you want a central location without paying boutique hotel prices. Best for solo travelers and short stays. Why I recommend it: safe location + walkable + consistently strong ratings.

Hotel bh El Poblado (Midrange) | Reliable, comfortable, and well located between Provenza and business areas. Rooms are modern and spacious, and breakfast is included. Best for first-time visitors who want comfort without luxury pricing. Why it works: calm area but still close to everything.

The Click Clack Hotel Medellin (Upscale) | One of Medellín’s trendiest boutique hotels, known for design-forward interiors, rooftop spaces, and an excellent restaurant scene. Best for boutique lovers, couples, and style-focused travelers. Why it stands out: great atmosphere without feeling like a party hotel.

Laureles (More Local Atmosphere)

Laureles feels more residential and relaxed. Still, normal big-city precautions apply, especially at night.

Good for

  • slower travel

  • cafés and parks

  • fewer party crowds

  • flatter, more walkable streets

Hotel Laureles 70 (Budget) | Simple but well-located accommodation close to restaurants and nightlife. A practical choice for travelers prioritizing value and location. Best for budget travelers wanting a local neighborhood feel.

Hotel Boutique Laureles Medellin (Midrange) | A cozy boutique stay with modern rooms and personalized service in one of Laureles’ best areas. Best for: slower travelers and digital nomads Why I like it: quieter atmosphere than El Poblado.

INNTU Hotel (Upscale) | A modern design hotel near Laureles’ Second Park featuring rooftop views, spa facilities, and stylish rooms. Best for travelers wanting comfort without El Poblado crowds.

Envigado (Quiet Alternative)

Just south of the city, Envigado offers a calmer, more local experience with restaurants and plazas popular among residents rather than tourists.

Hospedajes El Jardin (Budget) | A small, affordable stay offering a local experience at a very accessible price point. Best for slow travelers and longer stays.

Arame Hotel Envigado (Midrange) | Modern rooms, strong comfort standards, and easy metro access make this one of Envigado’s most practical hotel options. Best for travelers wanting quiet evenings but easy city access.

Safety in Medellin

Medellín is safer than its historical reputation suggests, but it still requires awareness. Millions of travelers visit each year without major issues, and authorities have increased security measures in tourist areas, including improved lighting and monitoring. However, petty theft remains common, especially phone snatching and opportunistic robberies. Research shows personal theft is the most frequent crime targeting visitors.

Practical Safety Tips

  • Avoid walking alone late at night

  • Use Uber after dark

  • Keep phones out of sight on busy streets

  • Don’t accept drinks from strangers

  • Stay cautious with dating apps (incidents involving tourist targeting have increased in recent years)

A local expression you’ll hear often is: “No dar papaya.” – Don’t make yourself an easy target. For solo female travelers, Medellín is manageable with awareness but feels more like a major Latin American city than Colombia’s smaller, slower destinations.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Providencia, Colombia’s True Paradise Island

Providencia, Colombia’s True Paradise Island

If Colombia has a secret, this is it. Far out in the Caribbean Sea, closer to Nicaragua than mainland Colombia, lies Providencia. A tiny island where reggae drifts through the air, scooters replace traffic jams, and the ocean glows in more shades of blue than you thought possible.

There are no large resorts. No cruise ships. No beach clubs competing for attention. Just palm trees, coral reefs, and a slow rhythm of life that feels increasingly rare in the Caribbean. After traveling extensively across Colombia, from Cartagena to Tatacoa and the coffee region, I can confidently say this: Providencia is Colombia’s true paradise island.

If you are looking for untouched Caribbean beauty, slow travel, and a destination that still feels authentic, this is where you go.

Why Providencia Feels Different

Providencia is part of the San Andrés archipelago, but it could not feel more different from its larger neighbor. Only about 5,000 people live here. Property ownership is restricted to locals, which has prevented mass development. Tourism remains small scale and community run, mostly guesthouses and family-owned posadas. English Creole is widely spoken alongside Spanish, reggae plays everywhere, and life moves at a pace dictated by tides and sunsets rather than schedules.

Getting here requires effort. You must first fly to San Andrés and then take a small plane or ferry. That extra step is exactly why Providencia still feels like paradise.

Best things to do in Providencia

Providencia is not about ticking attractions off a list. It is about slowing down, swimming constantly, and letting island life take over. Still, there are a few experiences you absolutely should not miss.

  • 1   Discover all the beaches
  • 2   Dive or snorkel
  • 3   Check out Santa Catalina island
  • 4   Enjoy a day trip to Crab cay
  • 5   Go hiking
  • 6   Visit Roland’s bar

1 Discover all the beaches

The island is only 7 km long, meaning you can explore every beach within a single day by scooter. Each one has a slightly different personality.

Southwest Bay (Bahía Sur Oeste) | The longest and most iconic beach on the island. Soft sand, wide open views, and incredible sunsets. This is where locals gather in the evenings and where you will likely return multiple times. Check tide times before visiting because the beach becomes much smaller at high tide.

Almond Bay (Bahía Almendra) | A hidden little cove accessed by a short walk down a path. Calm, crystal clear water and fewer visitors make this one feel almost private. Perfect for a relaxed swim or a quiet afternoon with a book.

Freshwater Bay (Bahía Aguadulce) | Peaceful and scenic, with local life unfolding under palm trees. Divers often depart from here early in the morning, but otherwise it remains calm and uncrowded. A great base if you prefer staying near restaurants and small supermarkets.

Manchineel Bay (Playa Manzanillo) | Wild, rustic, and wonderfully Caribbean. Driftwood, palms, and rolling waves create a more raw atmosphere. This is also where you will find one of the island’s most famous institutions: Roland’s Bar.

2 Dive

What else would you do on a less visited pristine Caribbean island than…dive? Or at least snorkel. Either way, visibility is pretty good and marine life is abundant here. I had a great time diving with Sonny Dive Shop (they don’t have a website, you’ll need to call) They can pick you up from your accommodation around the island. The boat ride to dive sites can be a little choppy, but once you jump into the water, the nausea completely goes away. If you do not dive, snorkeling alone is worth the trip to the island.

Not a diver yet? Start your journey and get a license with PADI and thank me later!

3 Check out Santa Catalina island

Santa Catalina is connected to the main island via a footbridge, so the only way to get here is walk over or take the boat. I somehow really like this idea of being far from the scooters and cars, and this is where I booked accommodation. It was very peaceful and fulfilling to leave my scooter at the bridge and walk over at the end of the day. The island and the bridge were badly affected by a storm a few years ago, but since then the bridge has been rebuilt and most of the rubbish cleared away (although there are still some reminders). Santa Catalina has a tiny little swimming beach close to the bridge (you have to climb some steps), where very few people go, and you can spot seastars in the sand while swimming around! 

4 Check out Crab cay

Crab Cay is fantastic for snorkeling. I arranged for a “group tour” with my accommodation, but ended up going alone with a local guide anyway. They basically drop you off at the island for some time, where you can slowly swim around and snorkel, and then come collect you and on the way back to your accommodation also stop above the coral reef where you can see even better things (there is no land here so the boat just stops and waits for you for about 20min to swim around). Watch out at the island, there can be sharks (although most of them are smaller reef sharks, anything can happen). While being there I saw a guide run towards some snorkellers and frantically point at a shark near them…it was pretty scary. Don’t worry too much though, just be cautious and don’t swim too much out into the open alone.

5 Go hiking

Providencia is surprisingly lush and mountainous. You can hike to El Pico, the island’s highest point, for panoramic Caribbean views. The trail takes about three hours round trip. Honestly, I struggled to tear myself away from the ocean long enough to do it, but if you want a different perspective of the island, this is the hike to choose.

6 Visit Roland’s bar

No trip to Providencia is complete without a stop at Roland’s. Located on Manchineel Bay, this legendary reggae beach bar is equal parts institution and time capsule. Coconut cocktails, bonfires, and laid-back Caribbean energy define the experience. Come for sunset. Stay longer than planned. Sometimes there is live music, sometimes just waves and conversation. Either way, it captures the spirit of Providencia perfectly.

How much time you need

Minimum: 3 nights
Ideal: 5 to 7 nights

Providencia rewards slow travel. Once you arrive, you will not want to rush. Divers especially should plan extra time for weather flexibility and multiple dive days.

Getting to Providencia

Reaching Providencia requires a little extra effort, but that’s exactly what has kept the island so beautifully unspoiled. Unlike most Caribbean destinations, you cannot fly directly here from mainland Colombia. Every visitor must first travel through the neighboring island of San Andrés.

Step 1: Fly to San Andrés

Direct flights (typically 1.5 to 2 hours) connect San Andrés with several major Colombian cities including:

  • Bogotá

  • Medellín

  • Cartagena

When you arrive in San Andrés, all foreign visitors must purchase a tourist card (Tarjeta de Turismo). This costs around 120,000 COP (about $30 USD) and is required to enter both San Andrés and Providencia. The card is usually purchased at the airport before departure. Make sure to keep it safe, as you may be asked to show it again when traveling between the islands or leaving the archipelago.

Step 2: Travel from San Andrés to Providencia

From San Andrés, you have two options to reach Providencia.

Small plane (recommended) | This is the fastest and most comfortable option. Satena operates flights that take about 20 minutes and offer incredible aerial views of the Caribbean reefs surrounding the island. Aircraft are small propeller planes with limited luggage allowance, so packing light is helpful.

Ferry | A passenger ferry connects San Andrés and Providencia in about 3 hours. The sea crossing can be rough depending on weather conditions, and many travelers take motion sickness medication beforehand. Both flights and ferries can occasionally be delayed or canceled due to weather, so it’s wise to avoid tight travel connections when planning your itinerary.

Read my guide on How to Get Around Colombia

Plane pilot from behind before take off in Capurgana, Colombia
Small plane pilot and ground staff greeting each other in Capurgana, Colombia

Getting Around Providencia

Providencia is tiny. The entire island is only about 7 km long, and you can drive the full loop road in roughly 45 minutes. Because of this, getting around is simple and part of the fun.

Rent a scooter | Renting a scooter is by far the best way to explore the island. It gives you complete freedom to visit different beaches, stop at viewpoints, and chase sunsets wherever you like. Traffic is extremely light and the roads are easy to navigate. Typical rental price: 60,000–80,000 COP per day. Many guesthouses can arrange scooter rentals for you, sometimes even delivering the bike directly to your accommodation.

Moto-taxis | If you do not drive, moto-taxis are the easiest way to get around. These motorcycle taxis are widely available across the island and are inexpensive for short distances. Your guesthouse host can usually call one for you. Typical price: 5,000–10,000 COP per ride

Walking | Certain areas, especially Santa Catalina Island, are easily explored on foot. Santa Catalina is connected to Providencia by a small pedestrian bridge, and since scooters cannot cross it, the island remains wonderfully quiet and peaceful.

Ask your guesthouse or rent a scooter yourself

Where to stay

Accommodation in Providencia is mostly made up of locally owned posadas and small guesthouses, rather than large hotels. This is partly why the island has remained so charming and unspoiled. Most places are simple but comfortable, with air conditioning, breakfast, and incredibly welcoming hosts. Because the island limits the number of visitors, it’s smart to book accommodation in advance, especially during Colombian holiday periods.

Which area should you stay in?

  • Freshwater Bay: Best if you want restaurants and small supermarkets nearby.
  • Southwest Bay: Great beach access and sunset views.
  • Santa Catalina: Quiet and peaceful, ideal for slow travel and relaxing evenings.
  • Rocky Cay side of the island: Usually cheaper accommodation, but you’ll need a scooter to reach the best beaches.

Typical prices

Providencia is more expensive than mainland Colombia, but still affordable compared to many Caribbean islands. Typical nightly prices:

  • Budget posadas: $25 to $45
  • Mid-range guesthouses: $45 to $80
  • Boutique stays: $90+

Read my post about Cost of Travel in Colombia

Best hotels in Providencia

Shell Sea B & B (Mid-range) | This is where I stayed, and I absolutely loved it. Located on the small pedestrian island of Santa Catalina, Shell Sea B & B sits right in front of the pier overlooking Santa Isabel Bay, just a short walk from the beach. Rooms have air conditioning, private bathrooms, and balconies, and a regional breakfast is served each morning. What I especially liked about staying here was the atmosphere. Santa Catalina has no scooters or car traffic, so evenings feel peaceful and slow. After exploring Providencia during the day, I would leave my scooter at the bridge and walk across to the island. If you want a quiet and authentic place to stay, this is a fantastic option.

Posada Miss Portia (Budget) | A simple but very well-located guesthouse close to Southwest Bay, one of the best beaches on the island. Clean rooms, air conditioning, and access to a kitchen make it a great value option for travelers who want to stay near the beach.

Cabañas Agua Dulce (Mid-range) | One of the closest things Providencia has to a boutique hotel. Located in Freshwater Bay, this property offers private cabañas with access to a pool, hammocks, and a small sunset bar.

Prepare for Providencia

Providencia is one of the most unique destinations in Colombia. While the island is relaxed and easy to explore, its remote location and small infrastructure mean that a few practical details can catch first-time visitors by surprise. Understanding these small realities ahead of time will make your trip smoother and help you travel more confidently, especially if you are planning a longer Colombia itinerary or visiting as a solo traveler.

Before your trip, I recommend reading:

Cost of Travel in Colombia
Solo Female Travel in Colombia: How Safe Is It Really?

Essential Providencia Travel Tips

  • Bring enough cash | Cash is essential on the island. Many guesthouses, restaurants, and tour operators do not accept cards, and ATMs can run out of money. It is best to withdraw enough Colombian pesos before arriving.
  • WiFi is slow, but mobile internet can be surprisingly fast | Most guesthouses have WiFi, but it is often slow and unreliable. However, Providencia actually sits next to a major underwater optical cable, which means mobile data can be much faster than local WiFi. With a good Colombian SIM card, I was able to get stable, high-speed internet and even work remotely from the island.
  • Build buffer time into your itinerary | Flights and ferries to Providencia can occasionally be canceled due to weather. If you have a tight schedule or onward flights, plan an extra buffer day.
  • Respect the island’s water supply | Fresh water is limited and precious on Providencia. Many accommodations rely on rainwater collection, so keep showers short and use water responsibly.
  • Bring reef-safe sunscreen | Providencia’s reefs are part of a protected marine ecosystem. Using reef-safe sunscreen helps protect coral and marine life.
  • Check tides before visiting beaches | Some beaches, especially Southwest Bay, can shrink significantly at high tide. Checking tide times helps you plan the best time for swimming and relaxing.

Solo Female Travel in Providencia

Providencia is one of the easiest places in Colombia to exhale. It’s small, community-run, and has a calm, village-like feel that makes solo travel feel straightforward, especially compared to bigger coastal hubs. People tend to recognize you quickly, scooter traffic is light, and most visitors are couples, divers, or slow travelers rather than party crowds. That said, “safe” on a Caribbean island still requires common sense. Here’s what mattered most for me:

  • Small island dynamics: You are never far from your accommodation, and it’s hard to truly get lost.
  • Low-pressure tourism: No aggressive sales culture, no nightlife chaos, and very little street hassle.
  • Scooter freedom: Having your own scooter gives you control over your day and avoids relying on taxis at night.

What I did differently as a solo woman:

  • I avoided empty beaches at dusk. Sunset is gorgeous, but I left before it got fully dark unless I was at a busy spot like Southwest Bay or Roland’s.
  • I asked my host for the local “yes/no list.” Which beaches are best in current conditions, where to snorkel safely that week, and whether any road sections were rough after rain.
  • I treated the ocean as the real risk. Tide changes can be intense, and snorkel spots can have current. I did not swim far out alone and I wore fins when snorkeling.

A note on Crab Cay

Crab Cay can be incredible, but remember it’s open water snorkeling. Reef sharks are usually not interested in people, but it’s still smart to go with a guide, listen closely to local advice, and avoid doing it completely solo.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

San Bernardo islands – untravelled gems near Cartagena

Overview

The San Bernardo Islands are one of the most underrated places to visit on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. Located about 2 hours by boat from Cartagena, this small archipelago feels worlds away from the crowds, offering a quieter and more untouched alternative to the Rosario Islands or Playa Blanca. Still, most tourists haven’t even heard about it let alone taken the slightly inconvenient journey to get here. There also wasn’t much on the internet that I could find when researching for my trip there. So here is a summary of what I found out on the way.

The Islas San Bernardo is a group of ten coral islands nestled in the Gulf of Morrosquillo in the Caribbean Sea, roughly 80 km (50 miles) south of Cartagena. The archipelago forms part of the Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo National Park, highlighting the importance of its marine and coral ecosystems. Of the 10 islands, only a few are accessible for visitors​.

If you are planning a trip to Cartagena and want to escape the more touristy beach areas, the San Bernardo Islands are one of the best alternatives. I include them as an optional add-on in my 3-week Colombia itinerary, especially if you’re looking for a more relaxed Caribbean experience.

The islands

Isla Tintipan

The largest and most beautiful San Bernardo island. It’s made up of mangroves and secluded white-sand beaches and has great coral reefs for snorkeling. I recommend staying here.

Isla Mucura

The most famous island, known for its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. Hotels privatize 80% of the island. Pick your accommodation cautiously. Punta Faro is the most upscale hotel in the archipelago.

Santa Cruz de Islote

This island stands out as one of the most densely populated islands on earth, providing a fascinating glimpse into the local community’s way of life. It is only 200 meters long and 120 meters wide. It’s hard to tell exactly how many residents there are, some say around 1200, but that’s likely to be an overestimation (a census from the mid-2010s reported the population to be 492). However, there are 97 to 115 homes with 45 permanent families in this tiny place. The whole island is concrete, and every square centimeter is used. Crazy to imagine that people actually live here. It’s interesting but…seeing it from the boat or stopping here for max half an hour is probably enough. Locals are friendly and sell popsicles to the boats that briefly stop to pick up or drop off passengers, but there isn’t much more to do here.

Isla Palma

It’s the nearest island to Rincon del Mar. The island is divided into 2 hotels. You can party here.

What to do here

For those seeking a more active adventure, the island offers kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing trips. Visitors can also take a boat tour of the archipelago, which includes stops at other beautiful islands in the area.

One of the most unique experiences on Isla San Bernardo is the opportunity to swim in a bioluminescent lagoon. At night, the water in the lagoon glows blue-green, creating a magical and otherworldly experience.

Note on Casa en el agua

Let’s talk a little bit about Casa en el agua, the “eco hostel on an island”. This is probably the only better known place in the archipelago among international travelers (well they do have a flashy website in English after all). I was even considering staying here because it was so hard to find anything else about the rest of the islands. Well, we did stop there on the way to and from Cartagena with the speedboat to pick up some people, and my already formulated opinion that I was very smart not to stay here further solidified when I saw the place in real life. It is really not my kind of place. Which doesn’t mean at all that it’s a bad place, or that you couldn’t have fun here.

Just don’t stay there because you feel like  there are no other options – there are! It is very feasible to get to other islands on the archipelago and you will have enough things to do and you can organize your own trip. However, the islands have a very different feel. They are calm, with few people who generally keep to themselves and relax and enjoy nature all day. It’s very unlikely you’ll get your party fix there, so if company is rather what you’re looking for, go for Casa en el agua for sure!

How to get there

From Cartagena | From Cartagena directly, you embark on a roughly two-hour boat journey from the Muelle de la Bodeguita dock. These boats typically set sail between 8 and 10 am. Keep in mind, the ride can be choppy, and there are luggage weight restrictions to watch out for. Upon arrival at the docks of your chosen island, further arrangements may be necessary to reach your accommodation, such as a short walk or an additional boat hire. Return trips to Cartagena usually commence around noon from Isla Múcura’s public pier​ as the first stop. When I traveled to Isla Tintipan there was essentially one speedboat operator running, Tranq it Easy. There is only one daily departure, so it’s very important to book the boat trip with them (or other operators if available), because hotels don’t guarantee your getting there – I heard about people who had to miss a night on the islands because the boat was full. The price is about 300k COP, it isn’t cheap (compared to Colombian prices), but it’s worth it. You can very easily book this trip online.

From Tolú | It is a cheaper but much longer journey. It might make a lot of sense to stay in the area of Rincon del Mar once you travel that far south, another hidden gem of tranquil seaside living in Colombia. There is a bus from Cartagena to Tolú (about 5 hours 20 min), and there is only one boat per day (40 min) that leaves from Tolú to the islands at 8:30 (so you’d need to spend the night in Tolú).

Tip | You can only pay by cash on the islands (except a few hotels). The sea is rough from December to April.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

3 best island getaways from Cartagena, Colombia

Overview

Cartagena, an iconic Colombian destination in itself with its vibrant colors, colonial balconies, and the charming clink of ice in mojito glasses, feels like a cocoon of Caribbean bliss. But sooner or later, most travelers start craving what lies just beyond the city walls: the ocean.

While Cartagena sits on the coast, its urban beaches aren’t the reason people travel here. The real Caribbean magic lies offshore, scattered across turquoise waters within easy reach of the city. Whether you want an easy beach escape, a protected island paradise, or a more adventurous off-the-grid experience, there’s an island trip that fits your travel style.

Here are three island getaways from Cartagena, ranked by effort and adventure level:

  • Go classic: Playa Blanca (Isla Barú) – easy and popular

  • Go deeper: Rosario Islands – nature and snorkeling

  • Go intrepid: San Bernardo Islands – remote Caribbean escape

Palm trees with rainbow in the background in Salento, Colombia

Go classic

Playa Blanca (on Isla Baru)

Playa Blanca is the quintessential Cartagena escapade as a day trip to the celebrated Isla Baru and its sun-kissed shores (Playa Blanca and Isla Baru are one and the same—a fact not immediately apparent to all visitors). Now accessible by road, this island escape is perfect  when you’re starting to crave a relief from the scorching heat of Cartagena. While weekends and peak seasons see a heavy surge of sun-seekers, a mid-week visit can reward you with a relatively more serene beach day, but beware – even on those days, this is not your secluded Caribbean island getaway or pristine nature experience. Playa Blanca is famous, easy and quick to reach and offers all imaginable comforts, so it is not surprisingly a crowd magnet, especially for local tourists and day trippers. And they demand the beer flowing and the beat pumping at max volume.

Don’t overthink it – join a day tour from Cartagena

How to get there?

Independently

On land | Begin with a bus ride from Cartagena to Pasacaballos. Buses depart from the corner of Calle 30 and Carrera 17 and the ride takes about 30 minutes. After reaching Pasacaballos, you can hire a moto-taxi to take you the rest of the way to Playa Blanca. The moto-taxi journey should last about 20-30 minutes and may cost up to COP 10,000 that you might be able to negotiate.

By boat | For a faster route, you can opt for a speedboat from Cartagena’s port in the Old Town. This trip takes roughly 30 minutes. Speedboats can also be accessed from Mercado Bazurto, but it’s advisable to get there between 8-9am to secure a spot, and you might have to wait for the boat to fill up before departing. Prices for a one-way trip range from COP 20,000 to 40,000, and the return boats generally leave around 2-3 pm​.

Overnight | Consider staying beachside overnight at a local hostel to experience Playa Blanca’s tranquil after-hours, it will be a very different experience from the day crowd!

Half organized

Shuttle | Alternatively, streamlined shuttle services via platforms like Bookaway provide a happy medium between autonomy and convenience.

Fully organized

Standard boat tour | As the most convenient option, you can choose a day-trip package – you will be promoted with these walking around on the streets of Cartagena whether you’re interested or not 😀 You can opt for a VIP experience with early pickup and a day-long retreat at a beach club, complete with amenities and lunch, or a boat tour zigzagging through neighboring isles, including Isla Grande and Islas de Rosario, with snorkeling opportunities aplenty.

Tip: When you are there and want a bit more peace, all you have to do is walk a little bit – surprisingly few people do this, so a brief stroll along the beach unveils quieter, more secluded spots.

Where to stay

Staying overnight completely changes the Playa Blanca experience. Once the day-trip boats leave, the beach becomes calmer, sunsets feel magical, and mornings are surprisingly peaceful. Here are some great recommendations:

Cabañas Playa Blanca (budget) | Simple beachfront cabins offering direct access to the sand and a relaxed backpacker atmosphere. Best for budget travelers and short overnight stays. Expect basic comfort, fan rooms and an unbeatable location.

Nena Beach & Hotel (midrange) | A comfortable beach hotel with private loungers, restaurant service, and more structure than the typical Playa Blanca accommodation. Best for travelers wanting comfort without losing the beach vibe Why it works: good balance between affordability and amenities.

Cabaña Coral Azul (upscale) | One of the more refined stays on Playa Blanca, offering quieter surroundings and a more boutique feel compared to the party-heavy central beach area. Best for couples or travelers wanting a calmer overnight escape.

Go deeper

Islas Rosario

If Playa Blanca sounds like a bit too much, maybe an escape to the Rosario Islands is more to your liking. A breathtaking archipelago a little further, but still an easy boat ride from bustling Cartagena. Unlike the popular Playa Blanca, which many mistakenly believe is part of this chain, the Rosario Islands has had a national park status since 1988, so it is more protected and natural, although not all of its islands – depends on where you are. Some of the 28 islands are actual nature areas, some are open to the public, and some are even owned by wealthy Colombians. Isla Grande and Isla del Rosario are the primary hubs for tourists.

How to get there

Just like with Isla Baru, the options for visiting are numerous.

Independently

By boat | Your only option to reach Islas Rosario will be by boat. You can either take a speed boat or a slow boat. The speed boat (lancha rapida) journey takes about 45-60 min while the slow boat takes about an hour and a half. All boats leave from El Muelle La Bodeguita and it’s best to arrive for an early departure before 9 am. A one-way ticket from Cartagena to Isla Grande costs 50,000 COP + 18,500 COP for port fees.  Make sure you tell them where you’re going on the islands so you get dropped off at the right point, and note that the last public boat leaves at 10 a.m. You can buy your return transport in advance, this probably makes sense for day trippers as it means a bit less hassle. However, you can use any company to get back, there are no discounts for round trips, so you can also decide later (just note the last departure time not to get stuck).

Half organized

Resort shuttle | You can also choose to do as many Colombians and use one of the resort shuttle boats (if you plan on using (and paying for) their facilities while on the island). This makes sense if you are planning on a comfortable, hassle-free day trip and prefer to have full facilities and don’t mind more people around.

Fully organized

Standard boat tour | For a hassle-free experience, it’s possible to join a tour like this popular and highly-rated option that includes lunch, snorkeling equipment, and national park fees, making it a stress-free experience. Because lots of tours follow this route, you will be sharing the beach with many other people and the other tourists on your boat.

Catamaran day trip | You can have a beautiful experience on a catamaran trip sailing with the wind with the opportunity to snorkel and swim in the water. It’s important to note that while you will see the islands from a distance, you won’t actually step on them.

Private boat tour | Of course you’ll have the most freedom with this option, but it is also the most expensive. You’ll get to go off the beaten track, stopping at beautiful, remote islands without crowds – a dream!

Overnight | There are very few hotels on the islands, but spending a night is well worth the money, you’ll have a chance to enjoy the islands almost completely free of people once the boat tours leave, offering an intimate experience of island life. You can hike around, visit harder to reach beaches and even see glowing plankton at night at the Enchanted Lagoon on Isla Grande.

Where to stay

Accommodation here ranges from eco-lodges to boutique island resorts. Staying overnight is highly recommended if your budget allows – the islands feel completely different after tour boats depart.

Hotel Cocoliso Island Resort (budget) | A lively island stay popular with Colombian travelers, offering pools, beach access, and organized activities. Best for social atmosphere and value stays. Vibe: relaxed resort energy rather than secluded luxury.

Rosario de Mar Ecohotel By Tequendama (midrange) | An eco-focused hotel surrounded by nature with direct sea access and snorkeling opportunities. Best for nature lovers and slower travel. Why I recommend it: feels immersed in the national park environment.

Coralina Island (upscale) |A beautiful boutique island retreat known for excellent food, stylish design, and a peaceful atmosphere. Best for honeymoon vibes or special stays. Highlight: quiet beaches and elevated dining experience. An alternative upscale option is Hotel Isla del Sol for a classic private-island resort feel.

Go intrepid

Islas San Bernardo

Islas Rosario is still not secluded enough? Then this is your option to go with. The San Bernardo archipelago is a true hidden gem in Colombia that most tourists haven’t even heard about. The Islas San Bernardo is a group of ten coral islands nestled in the Gulf of Morrosquillo in the Caribbean Sea, roughly 80 km (50 miles) south of Cartagena. The archipelago forms part of the Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo National Park, highlighting the importance of its marine and coral ecosystems. Of the 10 islands, only a few are accessible for visitors​. If you are interested, read my detailed guide about Islas San Bernardo.

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Where to stay

The San Bernardo islands are far away that it doesn’t really make sense to not stay overnight. There are limited options, but some great gems do exist here.

Hotel Isla Mucura (budget) | One of the most accessible stays in the archipelago with beachfront cabins and a relaxed Caribbean atmosphere. Best for travelers wanting remote islands without luxury prices.

Eco Hotel Punta Norte (midrange) | This is where I stayed and recommend it a lot! This hotel offers exactly what many travelers imagine when dreaming about a hidden Caribbean escape: wooden cabins surrounded by palm trees, turquoise water steps away, and a peaceful atmosphere far removed from Cartagena’s crowds. Located on Isla Tintipán, the hotel focuses on sustainability and simplicity rather than luxury, which makes the experience feel authentic and intimate. Why I loved staying here: quiet beaches without day-trip crowds, relaxed, community-style dinners – no menu, always the fresh catch of the day ;), beautiful sunsets and slow island mornings, easy access to snorkeling and nearby islands. Days here naturally fall into a rhythm of swimming, reading in hammocks, and watching the colors of the Caribbean change throughout the day. Best for slow travelers, couples, and anyone wanting a true off-grid island experience.

Hotel Punta Faro (upscale) | The most refined accommodation in the San Bernardo Islands, offering white-sand beaches, excellent service, and a tranquil atmosphere. Best for a true Caribbean escape away from crowds. Vibe: barefoot luxury without pretension.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

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Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

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Hiking the Cocora valley – a detailed guide

Overview

The Cocora Valley is one of the most iconic places to visit in Colombia and a must-see if you’re traveling through the coffee region. Located just outside Salento, this lush Andean valley is famous for its surreal landscape of towering wax palms, misty cloud forests, and rolling green hills.

The main reason people come here is to hike among the Quindío wax palms, the tallest palm trees in the world, which can reach up to 60 meters in height . Scattered across the valley in dramatic clusters, they create one of the most unique and recognizable landscapes in South America.

But Cocora Valley is more than just a photo spot. The hiking trails take you through a mix of ecosystems, from open pastureland filled with palms to dense cloud forest, hanging bridges, and hummingbird-filled reserves. It’s part of Los Nevados National Natural Park, an area known for its rich biodiversity and protected natural habitats .

Most travelers visit Cocora Valley as a day trip from Salento, combining it with time in the coffee region and nearby towns. I include it as a highlight in my 2-week Colombia itinerary, together with Medellín, Minca, Tayrona National Park, and Cartagena.

The Iconic Wax Palms of Cocora Valley

The Cocora Valley in Colombia is home to the world’s tallest palm trees, the Quindío wax palms (Ceroxylon quindiuense), which can reach up to 60 meters (200 feet). Historically, indigenous communities used the wax from these palms for making candles. The trees also provide vital habitat and food for various species, including the endangered yellow-eared parrot.

The wax palms are known for their slender trunks coated with a thick layer of wax, which gives them their name. They thrive in the high-altitude conditions of the Andean cloud forests, typically found between 1,500 and 3,000 meters above sea level. Conservation efforts have been crucial in protecting these trees from deforestation and agricultural expansion, with national parks like Los Nevados National Natural Park helping to safeguard their habitat.

Route options

The short walk

Type: loop, Distance: 1km, Time: 30min, Difficulty: easy (just walk around among the trees on slight hills, no hiking boots are needed for this)

There are essentially 3 ways to hike the Cocora Valley (all are in the same place): 1) quick hike – If you don’t feel like hiking several hours, then you can do the quick scenic walk in Bosque de Palmas in about 30 min (this is essentially the very first part of the clockwise loop, and gives you access to the prettiest sights on the entire trek. Or you could even enjoy the same scenery on horseback

The long hike

Type: loop, Distance: 8.5km, Time: 5-7 hours, Elevation: 600 meters, Difficulty: moderate (the trail can be very muddy after rains and is quite steep in parts)

Or, you can choose to spend the day hiking in this beautiful area not only among wax palms but also a cloud forest (and potentially some hummingbirds). The long trek is a loop and you can do it 2) clockwise or 3) counter-clockwise. Clockwise you’ll be treated to the best sights in the beginning of the trail and have to do the tougher hiking near the end. Anti-clockwise you’ll need to work for your treat – go up a steep slope in the first stage to be treated to the best views at the end of your hike. There is much debate about which direction to go, and ultimately it’s a personal decision. I will describe the clockwise direction down below because this is what I chose.

Tips

  • Acclimatize: Spend a day or two in Salento to acclimate to the altitude before your hike.
  • Start Early: Begin your hike early in the morning to avoid afternoon rains and to have ample time to complete the loop.
  • Guide or No Guide: The trail is well-marked, so a guide is not necessary, but hiring one can enrich your experience with local knowledge.
  • There were a few stalls selling food and drinks at the trailhead, but you’ll be better off taking your own snacks or a picnic lunch for the hike. Many restaurants and cafes in Salento prepare “take away lunch” for the trail which is very convenient
  • You can expect rain in the Cocora Valley at any time of the year, usually in the afternoons, but if you go in the dry season (December to February and June to August) there’s a good chance the trail won’t be very muddy

The clockwise trail

Phase 1

Cocora Valley to Bosque de Palmas (1-1.5h). The hike begins at the trailhead near the jeep drop-off point in Cocora. From the parking follow the dirt road with the horses (and hikers) to the trailhead. This is an area with some commercial activity – there are some food stalls and Cocora Valley signs to take photos with etc. You’ll need to go through this and pay a small entrance fee of about 15000 COP (3$) at a gate to the right, because the trail goes through some private land. This part of the valley is called Bosque de Palmas, and here is where you’ll be greeted to the best views of the hike – stunning views of the valley and the towering wax palms everywhere you can see. I chose the clockwise option for my hike because the weather forecast that day predicted clearer skies early on the hike – be sure to check this! From here, the initial part of the trail is a steady ascent through lush farmland and pastures.

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Phase 2

Bosque de Palmas to Finca La Montaña (1-1.5h). The trail continues to ascend, becoming steeper as you approach Finca La Montaña. This section offers panoramic views of the valley as you climb higher, with the wax palms providing a dramatic backdrop. Finca La Montaña is a great place to rest, enjoy the views, and prepare for the descent.

Phase 3

Finca La Montaña to Acaime (Hummingbird Sanctuary) (1-1.5h). From Finca La Montaña, the trail descends through the cloud forest. The descent offers a mix of dense forest and open views, with opportunities to see various birds and other wildlife. After a bit of trekking there is an optional side trip to the Hummingbird house (it is not included in the track details, but there are trail markers on the main trail pointing in its direction). Acaime is a hummingbird sanctuary where you can take a break, enjoy a hot drink, and observe numerous hummingbird species up close. There’s an entry fee for the Hummingbird House of 15000 COP (US$ 3). Ithink it’s worth the detour, especially if you haven’t been to a hummingbird sanctuary before.

Finish

Acaime to Cocora Valley (1.5-2h). The final leg of the hike is a gradual descent, following the Quindío River and crossing several suspension bridges. This section of the trail is less scenic and can get quite steep and slippery at times (especially when muddy), so take care! You will get back to the point where you started the trek. Go to the jeep parking lot, and wait for a car to fill up to take you back to Salento, where you can have a well-deserved dinner and rest.

How to get there

The gateway to the Cocora Valley is the charming town of Salento (see how to get to Salento here). From Salento you can drive or take one of the shared jeeps, called Willys, to get to the trailhead in Cocora Valley. The Cocora Valley is a 25 minute drive from Salento You can park at one of the private parking lots near the trailhead (for about 5000 COP for half a day). Willys leave Salento roughly every 30 minutes to 1 hour, and you can also arrange private transport at most hotels or guesthouses. If you take a shared jeep, leave early to have better chances for good weather and to catch a return ride by 4 pm latest.

Colorful jeeps standing on the main square of Salento, Colombia, with palm trees in the background

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Panama to Colombia by boat – best trip with San Blas Adventures

Tupile island from a distance in San Blas, Panama

Crossing between Panama and Colombia

The journey between Panama and Colombia is not a straightforward transit – there is no road connection between the two, only the “Darien Gap” which essentially means hostile, uninhabited jungle and is fascinating to learn about.

The Darien Gap

The Darien Gap seen from a Guna Yala island, Panama

The Darien Gap is a dense, nearly impenetrable rainforest located in the border region between Panama and Colombia. It stretches for roughly 100 miles and is considered one of the most challenging and dangerous regions for travelers to navigate. Due to the rugged terrain, harsh weather conditions, and the presence of armed groups and drug traffickers, there are no roads connecting Central and South America through this region. Even though it is extremely dangerous to attempt to cross this jungle by foot, there are sadly always many desperate people who try, and many who fail and pay with their lives. The trek across the Darién Gap is 97 kilometers long and can take more than a week to complete. Migrants have no choice but to travel on foot. This is the only break in the Pan-American highway which stretches for some 30,000 kilometers, from Argentina to Alaska. As a result, travelers who wish to go between the two continents must either fly or take a boat around the Darien Gap. 

Boat trip options

Of course, the quickest and easiest way is to fly from Panama City directly to Colombia (there are direct flights to many bigger cities) – this usually costs around 250$. The speed boat trip is 500$, and the sailboat crossing is somewhere between 450$ and 750$.

This is a detailed overview of the crossing with San Blas Adventures, the company that offers a 3 night, 4 day tour between Carti, Panama and Capurgana, Colombia through the San Blas Islands. 4 days seem like a long time for this crossing, but this is because it’s not only a means of transport but an adventure and exploration of the pristine islands and their indigenous inhabitants. Most of the time is spent on the islands (either snorkeling and admiring their natural beauty, or meeting the communities), with less amount of time – max 3 hours daily – spent on the boat. Accommodation is also on the islands, guests never sleep on the boat, which is a big difference between the sailboat option and this tour.

The San Blas (or Guna Yala) islands and their inhabitants

The San Blas Islands are a stunning archipelago of more than 350 islands and home to the indigenous Guna people, who have lived on the islands for centuries and have managed to preserve their traditional way of life. Today they live in three politically autonomous comarcas or autonomous reservations in Panama, and in a few small villages in Colombia. 

We have heard many interesting details about the Guna, some of which I share here, but which I cannot exactly verify with more accurate sources than “our Guna host said so”. But they are very interesting so here they are:

  • Guna families are matrilinear and matrilocal, that the groom moving to become part of the bride’s family (they also take the last name of the bride).
  • Their leaders are called Sailas (pronounced “sigh-lah”), they can be men or women, but currently all Sailas are male. We met one of them on our community visit which was a nice surprise.
  • The Guna answer to the laws of their community (one of the 49), the Guna laws (governed by the Guna general congress which is led by 3 great Sailas) and those of Panama, in that order.
  • The Guna have a ritual of painting young girls’ bodies black when they become fertile. This is part of a celebration of entering adulthood, and also a way to signal to the community that the girl is “of age” and ready to start looking for a husband soon.

The experience by day

  • Day 1   Start of the trip
  • Day 2   Pelican + Tupile
  • Day 3   Caledonia island
  • Day 4   Arriving to Colombia

Day 1

Ready for the adventure, we start with a 2 hour jeep ride to the charming port town (village?) of Carti, where, at the sight of the general conditions, everyone is busy checking if their bags are wrapped up in enough layers of black garbage bags. Without any organized instructions we file into the speedboats and start heading out to the first island (not the catamaran, as I thought :D). It is a relatively short ride, but surprising, as it is the first taste of what is to come in the next three days. I quickly learn that the left-hand side of the boat and the last two rows are NOT the place to be, but also learn later that any attempt to secure the “better seats” is pretty much futile, as we always randomly file into the boats clutching our little personal garbage backs. It’s better just to embrace the conditions anyway. A little bit of water is refreshing, and a lot of water can be handled by the clever use of our snorkel masks.

Group waiting for a boat in Carti, Panama
People loading bananas onto a small boat in Carti harbor, Panama
Cars and boats in Carti, Panama

The first island is a shock though – straight from a postcard. There are always two islands a day the tour stops at, the first one is for “day activities”, the second one is where we sleep. The island is beautiful, the snorkeling superb with great visibility, and the food is great. We spend a few hours here snorkeling, relaxing and having lunch (fresh fish, coconut rice and salad).

Boat on a beach in San Blas islands Panama
Pier in San Blas islands Panama
Guna woman on a beach in San Blas islands Panama
Guna man on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Our first night is spent on another uninhabited island which is very small, and feels very cozy. The accommodation is always a mix of a few beds, and hammocks for the rest. I tried both during the 3 nights and found the hammocks surprisingly comfortable (I’ve never slept in one overnight before – the trick is to position yourself a little sideways if you want to avoid your knees hurting). Someone from the group celebrated their birthday, so we even got some cake and rum punch as a nice surprise!

Sunset on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Day 2 

The second day we stopped at a bigger island for the day, with volleyball nets and views of the Darien. It was time for us to properly meet the Guna community for the first time! We were going to sail over to the island of Tupile, to socialize and also stay overnight.

People playing beach volley on a San Blas island, Panama
Man looking out at the ocean on a San Blas island, Panama

I admit that I was a little nervous before going over to Tupile, being thrown in the middle of not only meeting the locals but kind of invading their privacy and staying on an island with them. It was pointless to worry, the experience was as positive and felt natural.The Guna can be pretty private, preferring to view you from a distance than socialize directly. Not so their children! They treat the tourists as welcome playmates and there aro so unbelievably many of them, the whole island quickly becomes a gigantic round of tag. I am usually very cautious about photographing and never do it without asking an adult, but here the children are begging to be photographed and love to pose! Since the village adults had no problems with it, here are two pictures that commemorate some serious posing skills 😀 

Initially, I felt a bit apprehensive about visiting Tupile, concerned about intruding on the locals’ privacy and staying on their island. However, my worries were unfounded as the experience turned out to be wonderfully positive and natural. The Guna people, known for their reserved nature, often observe from afar rather than engage directly. Their children, however, are the opposite – they eagerly treat tourists as newfound playmates. The island brims with youthful energy, transforming into a vast playground of tag. I’m usually very careful about taking photos of children, always seeking an adults’ permission first. But here, the children were the ones asking to be photographed, delighting in posing for the camera! With the village adults’ approval, here are two photos showcasing their impressive posing talents :D.

Portrait of a Guna child in San Blas, Panama
Portrait of a Guna child in San Blas, Panama

Day 3

On our third day, we balanced our time between relaxing at the beach and engaging with the Guna community. This evening was special as we stayed overnight on our island, celebrating our last night of the journey. The sea was rougher, adding excitement to our boat ride, with some passengers even putting on goggles due to the drenching waves! Upon arrival, we were welcomed with delicious fresh coconuts. 

During free time, I went snorkeling and was thrilled to spot a seahorse, a famously elusive creature. I’ve never seen one before up close, since they are so hard to find. I wished for scuba gear as I had to come up for air, losing sight of the seahorse.

Tupile island from a distance in San Blas, Panama

The highlight of the day was a surprise activity: rowing traditional carved wooden canoes to a neighboring island to meet more Guna people. I have to say it was super hard to row and navigate in the carved wooden canoe, much harder than handling a modern kayak. On the island, we were warmly greeted by the village elder, who was able to share fascinating stories and insights about the islands in Spanish, a fortunate opportunity for us. The evening concluded with a delicious dinner back on our island, complete with rum, coke, and dancing to celebrate our final night.

Empty tribal canoes of the Guna people on the beach on Caledonia island, San Blas, Panama
Woman rowing in a tribal canoe of the Guna people on the beach on Caledonia island, San Blas, Panama

Day 4

Crossing the border turned out to be quite the adventure. Our journey began in Puerto Obaldia, a remote spot near the Colombian border. Here, we briefly disembarked from the ship for passport formalities before heading towards Colombia.

Over the border, our first stop was Sapzurro, where we had a refreshing sea dip and some delicious homemade coconut ice cream. However, getting the passports stamped was only possible in Capurgana, we needed to go right away. Opting to travel light, I left my backpack at a Sapzurro hotel, planning a quick return (I booked accommodation there for 3 nights). But things didn’t go as expected.

The 5 minute journey to Capurgana was almost impossible due to the rough sea. Upon arrival, a malfunctioning computer at the migration office further complicated matters, preventing us from getting our passports stamped. To make things worse, with sunset approaching and no boats operating after dark, I found myself stranded in Capurgana overnight without my belongings. Luckily I already knew a bunch of very friendly people from the trip and they helped me out and I quickly found an extra room in one of the hotels:)

The next nothing was solved, of course:D. No passport updates yet, they told us it would take a few days, and they are closed on Sundays anyway, so we’d better diligently sunbathe until then. An overarching ban on Caribbean boat travel in Colombia due to the rough seas meant no return to Sapzurro by boat. So I decided to go for a hike through the jungle back to Sapzurro (it’s not very long but a sweaty hike, better not do it with all your stuff). So this is the story of how there is a gap of 3 days between my exit stamp in Panama and my entry stamp in Colombia. Anything can happen here!

Big group of Guna children in San Blas, Panama

Food and facilities

This trip is not for everyone and I do not mean that in a pejorative way at all. Yes the islands are beautiful but they are not that unique – there are other islands in Central America that compare in beauty and can be experienced with a much higher level of comfort.

Toilet on a San Blas island, Panama

Facilities are basic. This is an adventure tour and a chance to meet indigenous people in an authentic way, therefore, the experience of guests matches that of a “normal day” in the Guna community. There are no real showers, potable tap water, western toilets, mirrors, private rooms or air conditioners, and very limited electricity and cell coverage. Bring a power bank if you want to use your phone for taking pictures and videos.

You can get (thankfully cold!) drinks on the islands, like beers, cokes (regular, not diet) and coconuts, but you have to bring and carry your own water for the trip (I would recommend 6 liters per person).

Coconuts on a table on a San Blas island, Panama
Toilet sign on a San Blas island, Panama

The food on the trip is incredible – in fact, the best food I had on my whole Panama trip (except for Fonda lo que Hay in Panama City which is out of this world, but also a gourmet restaurant). The meals are designed by a nutritionist with vegetarians, vegans and other dietary needs in mind. It is really just great – if you have complaints about the food then probably the whole trip was not meant for you.

The boats

This was actually a funny experience. When we got into our boats in the small harbor of Carti, I thought this will be a very short trip to get us to the “big boat” – I was actually searching the horizon to spot the bigger catamaran anchored farther out that will take us all the way to Colombia. I even asked our guide when we would reach the boat to which he replied, looking confused, “well, you’re on it”. Now in turn I got very confused and couldn’t believe that we would make an ocean crossing with the two small motorboats that we were on…Don’t worry, it is very possible though – partly because most of the time during the trip is spent on and near the islands and not on the open ocean, and also because the captains are very skilled and used to navigating these boats on higher waves as well. However, my advice is to be prepared – especially during the high season (Dec-Apr), waves can get rough, and actually did for us on the last day. We were lucky to reach Capurgana on time, but the group there waiting for the Colombia – Panama crossing was delayed by a few days because of the rough sea. The waves can be a little scary at first, but the experience is not so bad –  if you don’t overdo the party the night before you will probably not get seasick (just wet :P).

Boat on a beach in San Blas islands Panama

Respect and sustainability

For me it was an unbelievable experience to be on these islands and I felt very grateful for the opportunity and humbled by the openness of the Guna and the proximity of the looming Darien Gap. This is a real experience with the indigenous culture, not like other “meet the locals” fake encounters which we probably all know of or experienced at one point while traveling.

Portrait of a Guna woman in San Blas, Panama
Portrait of a Guna woman in San Blas, Panama

Keep in mind that this tour is only possible because the Guna decided to generously let foreigners enter their lands and experience their culture (yes, they earn some money with hosting the trip, but don’t be confused for a second, the Guna are NOT doing this for profit – for a long time it was not allowed at all to stop on the islands overnight, or even sail private boats into their territory, and the privilege can be revoked anytime again. So please remember that if you disrespect the Guna there is a very high risk that they will not let other travelers in again). As anywhere in the world, you should ask before taking a picture of someone – sometimes they ask for some money in exchange (1-2$), sometimes they are happy to pose. The two ladies on the pictures are an example of each – one of them even went to fetch her traditional hair piece before proudly posing before her home. Even though the other lady asked for a small contribution, this did not make the encounter weird at all, and we were both happy and smiling in the end. It is accepted to take pictures of the children and they ask for it a lot (see some of the results below!), but there are other rules you should ask about in advance (e.g. You can talk to a child but not give them candy or gifts or money. You can play chase with a child but you should not lift them in the air for safety reasons).

What (and how) to pack

It is explained in detail on the company’s website how to pack and wrap your bags. Essentially you need to have 2 packs, one big bag, which is everything that you don’t need and will not use on this trip. You will not see this bag until the end of the journey, and will not be able to access it at all. The other “small bag” should contain everything you will use on the islands, which isn’t much:

  • Swimsuit, bikini or shorts
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunscreen
  • Hat
  • Beach dress
  • 2 t-shirts and shorts
  • Flip-flops/Sandals (leave your shoes in the big bag)
  • Toiletries
  • Light sweater for the night
  • Phone or camera
  • Power bank 
  • Snacks

If you have valuable or fragile things with you that you will not use on the islands (like a laptop) and wondering where to put it – it needs to come with you in addition to the small bag! This is less because things can get stolen (the Guna don’t steal, and your travel group is also very unlikely to take any of your things on purpose), but for fear of water or other damage (if you leave these things in the boat for the journey, they can get stepped on for example). Be mindful of leaving things on the islands, you will probably never see them again!

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Capurgana and Sapzurro – a corner of Colombia where no roads lead

Swimming pier with palm trees in the background in La Miel

A tranquil corner of Colombia

Let’s dive into a less-traveled slice of Colombia, the twin coastal hideaways of Capurganá and Sapzurro. These neighboring retreats lie on Colombia’s northern frontier, hemmed in by the dense Darien Gap and the Caribbean Sea. Their isolation is by geography, not by choice, accessible only by boat or plane, setting them apart from the well-trodden tourist paths.

In Capurganá, development has tiptoed in, creating a low-key resort atmosphere that’s still primarily a Colombian vacation spot. It’s a place where the absence of roads has kept the pace leisurely and the ambiance authentic. Don’t look for ATMs or car rentals; here, the transportation of choice might just be a horseback ride along the beach.

A short trek away, Sapzurro offers an even quieter escape. It’s the last dot of civilization before Panama, a small, vibrant community fringed by pristine beaches and backed by lush jungle. It’s so quiet, in fact, that the loudest thing you’ll hear is likely the waves or the local wildlife.

If you are planning a trip through Colombia and want to experience something completely different from places like Cartagena or Medellín, Capurganá and Sapzurro offer a rare glimpse into a slower, more untouched side of the country.

Trying to fit Capurgana into your plan? Check out my 3+ week Colombia travel itinerary

Swimming pier with palm trees in the background in La Miel

What to do

  • 1   Snorkel and dive
  • 2   Hike
  • 3   Cross into Panama on foot
  • 4   See turtles

1 Snorkel and dive

You could theoretically snorkel and even dive around the two towns, if the water is calm, although it will probably not be in high season (Dec-Apr), so don’t expect this trip to be focused on underwater adventures. The best beach around is probably La Miel (see below), but you can also sunbathe and swim in Sapzurro, it has a little beach. To be very honest, I didn’t really feel the urge to go into the water in either towns, especially after the experience in the San Blas islands, it was just a bit too choppy and messy. If you want a beach getaway and have more time in Panama or Colombia I’d rather recommend to stay a longer time in San Blas, the islands around Cartagena, or San Andres and Providencia.

Beach hut on Sapzurro beach in Colombia
House viewed from the jungle in Sapzurro, Colombia

2 Hike

The other big thing to do here is hiking. The way to and from Sapzurro is actually a pretty good day activity, if you come from Capurgana, you can even extend your hike and continue all the way to La Miel. On top of this, from Capurgana you can hike to El Cielo, a nature reserve celebrated for its picturesque waterfall and crystal-clear river – keep your eyes peeled for monkeys and toucans along the way​.

View of Sapzurro from hiking trail in Colombia

3 Cross into Panama on foot

For an unforgettable day trip, trek to Sapzurro and then across the border into Panama to find La Miel beach, a serene spot perfect for relaxation​​. Since this is a border crossing, take your passport with you (the guards at the checkpoint only look at it and note the number, you will not get a stamp). There are facilities next to the beach, you can have lunch here and pay in USD or COP.

La Miel beach with hut, Panama
Guna Yala symbol painted on a wall, Panama

4 See turtles

This is a seasonal activity, but you could even have a chance to witness leatherback turtles laying their eggs in Acandi during the Easter period, a truly remarkable sight​. 

How to get there

Journeying to Capurganá and Sapzurro is an adventure in itself, a prelude to the serene beauty that awaits. There are no roads to these remote Colombian havens, making the trip there part of the experience.

By bus or plane + boat | Boats are integral to this journey. Whether you pick the longest option from Turbo (3h 10.000 COP), the larger ferries from Necoclí (2 h for 70.000 COP) or the smaller lanchas from Acandí (1h for 40.000 COP), expect to be greeted by the vastness of the ocean and a sense of leaving the modern world behind​. Either way you’ll have to get to these places to take the boats. You can either take a bus from Medellín (8h to Turbo for 60.000 COP, 9h to Necoclí for 50.000 COP) or  fly from Medellín’s Olaya Herrera Airport to the coastal town of Acandí with airlines like Latam and Avianca.

By plane | In high season you can book a direct flight to Medellín, with Grupo San German or Searca (which operates charter flights). I took the former to fly to Medellín, but it seems like they are not operating at the moment.

By boat from Panama | This is quite another story…if you are coming from Panama you probably end up in Capurgana because you chose the adventurous option of slowly crossing the Panamanian indigenous (Guna Yala) islands, either by sailboat or speedboat. You can read about this crossing in this detailed post. Make sure to dedicate a few days in Capurgana / Sapzurro upon arrival, especially in high season when the sea can be rough. My group was stranded in Capurgana for 3 days, actually not because of the weather but because the computer of the immigration office was malfunctioning and they confiscated our passports and told us to wait :’D. This is how there is a gap of 3 days between my exit stamp in Panama and my entry stamp in Colombia. So as you see, anything can happen here!

Plane pilot from behind before take off in Capurgana, Colombia
Small plane pilot and ground staff greeting each other in Capurgana, Colombia

Traveling between the two towns

Once in Capurganá, to reach Sapzurro, you again have two options. The most straightforward is to take a local boat (lancheros) from Capurganá’s dock, which offers a very short ride along the coast. These boats typically require a minimum of 3 or 4 passengers and are very cheap (10.000 COP) and take a few minutes. If you require an early (or late) start at a time when nobody else wants to go, you can always ask any local – they will find you someone to take you over, albeit for a much higher price of course.

You can also do the 2 hour hike through the jungle. This is not a simple road connecting the two towns, you actually have to hike, so taking all your luggage with you is only an option if you are relatively fit. The hike is not so hard and beautiful (going through lush rainforest, with glimpses on the Caribbean coast down below), but it is very hot and humid, so go prepared.

Where to stay

In Capurgana you’ll definitely find more company, but for me it made more sense to stay in Sapzurro and relax. I stayed in La Posada, a home-stay that has very high reviews, unsurprisingly. This was probably the best place I stayed at during my 3 months Colombia trip. The owners are very friendly, the room and the view beautiful, and everything the host cooks is divine.

Tip | There are no ATMs in town and virtually no Wifi – be prepared! A Colombian SIM card and its mobile internet will probably work, but don’t expect to do work or stream movies here. You can exchange dollars (useful if coming from Panama), but don’t overdo it – the exchange rate is not very good. 

What to eat

Well that will be a pretty easy topic – fresh fish with coconut rice and salad, probably accompanied by a fresh juice, either pressed or blended with water or milk. This set menu will gloriously relieve you of all food-related decision fatigue, both in terms of what to order (well I mean, you can pick the fish, but do you actually even know the difference? Just take the recommended one) and in terms of price (the menu was uniformly 30,000 COP when I was visiting, no matter if it was served in someone’s backyard, a hotel or a restaurant). Hope you like fish!

Fried fish with coconut rice and salad in Colombia

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island

Salento, Colombia’s colorful coffee town

Salento restaurant terrace with people and with dark sky and rainbow in the background

Salento, Colombia: Overview

Salento is one of the most charming destinations in Colombia and a highlight of the country’s famous coffee region. Known for its colorful streets, laid-back atmosphere, and access to the stunning Cocora Valley, it’s a place that feels both vibrant and peaceful at the same time.

Most travelers come to Salento for the Cocora Valley hike, where towering wax palms create one of the most unique landscapes in South America. But beyond that, Salento is also about slow mornings, good coffee, and wandering through streets lined with brightly painted houses and small local shops.

Compared to bigger cities like Medellín or Cartagena, Salento moves at a much slower pace. It’s the kind of place where you settle into a routine of coffee, nature, and sunset viewpoints, and it’s very easy to stay longer than planned.

If you are planning a trip through Colombia, Salento is usually combined with Medellín and the Caribbean coast. I include it as a key stop in my 2-week Colombia itinerary, together with Minca, Tayrona National Park, and Cartagena.

Calle real, the main street of Salento, Colombia in rainy weather with a man holding an umbrella

What to do

  • 1   Hike Valle de Cocora
  • 2   Take a stroll down Calle Real
  • 3   Make your way to el Mirador
  • 4   Eat Trout
  • 5   Play Tejo
  • 6   Visit a Coffee Finca
  • 7   Drink great coffee in town
  • 8   Day Trip to Filandia
  • 9   Go on a monkey tour

1 Hike Valle de Cocora

Visiting Salento invariably includes exploring the spectacular Valle de Cocora, a destination frequently depicted on Colombian postcards. It is truly unique to experience its towering wax palm trees, the tallest in the world and native to Colombia and northern Peru.

Regarding transportation, while it is possible to walk to the park’s entrance, a more efficient and fun option is to take the colorful, locally-known ‘Willys’ Jeeps (a classic vehicle dating back about 60 years) from the main square in Salento. Although there is a nominal schedule, the frequency of these jeeps increases with demand, typically departing every hour or even every 30 minutes during peak times. The journey to the valley takes approximately 20-30 minutes, and the cost for a round trip is about 8,000 COP. It’s best to start early, ideally before 9 AM, to beat the influx of visitors. 

Wax palm trees with flowers in the foreground in Cocora Valley, Colombia
Wax palm trees with donkey and flowers in the foreground in Cocora Valley, Colombia
Wax palm trees with jeep and flowers in the foreground in Cocora Valley, Colombia

For exploring the valley, you have several options: trekking, mountain biking, or even horseback riding. Hiking is the most popular, and there’s a well-known loop trail that takes you past some of the most scenic viewpoints. If you enter the hiking trail from the point where the jeeps drop you, there are two small entrance fees to the park, one at the entrance after a blue gate (5,000 COP) and one a bit further on after the finca (10,000 COP). The entire loop is a medium difficulty hike that takes 5-6 hours (or a bit more if you take frequent stops for photos and to relax), but every step is worth it. About halfway through the hike you can even add on a little extra detour (about 30min) that leads to Acaime, a hummingbird sanctuary (entry 15,000 COP). They have bird feeders to attract hummingbirds – while this is not a rare practice in Colombia, if you haven’t yet seen a hummingbird “refugee”, it is fun to do so (if you have, it’s not different from the others). For a detailed guide about doing the hike, see this post.

Wax palms in Cocora Valley, COlombia
Wax palms in Cocora Valley, COlombia
Cocora valley landscape with wax palms

2 Take a stroll down Calle Real

Strolling down Calle Real should definitely be on your agenda while visiting Salento. It’s the main artery of the town, with  a charming blend of restaurants, guesthouses, artisan stores, and an array of shops offering both souvenirs and local crafts. 

Calle Real has preserved its charm over time with brightly colored details, beautifully painted doors, and whitewashed walls. Early mornings (before 9am) is when the street reveals its true colors – quite literally. This is when you can spot the colorful doorways before all the shops open –  and once they do, the street transforms, full of activity.

Salento street scene with a view in Colombia

3 Make your way to el Mirador

After walking through Calle Real, continue your journey to the steep staircase at its end. These steps are more than just a colorful backdrop for photos; they lead to a rewarding viewpoint, Mirador Alto De La Cruz. 

Here you get your first glimpse of the valley below, and if you go a bit further left from Alto De La Cruz, in just about a five-minute hike, you’ll arrive at Mirador de Salento. This spot offers unobstructed views of Salento’s landscape – a great setting to admire the sunset. Access to Mirador de Salento is free.

Calle real, the main street of Salento, Colombia in rainy weather with a man holding an umbrella
Palm trees with rainbow in the background in Salento, Colombia

4 Eat trout

Salento and trout go hand in hand – it’s a culinary pairing you simply can’t miss. As you wander the streets, you’ll notice that nearly every restaurant showcases this local favorite, often with a menu dedicated to it. The trout here isn’t just any trout; it’s served in a variety of ways, the crowd-pleaser being Trout baked in a creamy, garlicky sauce, generously smothered with cheese. It might not be the epitome of healthy food, but the flavors are irresistible. Prices for this delightful fish dish can vary, typically ranging from around 20,000 COP for a simple grilled trout to about 40,000 COP for the saucy style goodness.

My top pick is Restaurante Donde Laurita. It’s conveniently located right at the northern corner of Plaza Bolivar. They serve up delicious trout, and their dishes also come accompanied by rice, patacones (fried plantains), and some salad. The limonada de coco is very good. If you’re looking to explore beyond, other highly recommended spots include Restaurante Andrea and Shalem. Each offers its unique take on the region’s signature dish, so your taste buds are in for a treat in Salento.

Trout with garlic in a restaurant in Salento, Colombia
Street scene with car in Salento, Colombia

5 Play Tejo

Tejo, a game steeped in over 500 years of history and rooted in indigenous culture, is Colombia’s national sport – but it’s unlike any sport you’ve encountered before. Imagine a hybrid of darts and bowls, where the objective is to throw a heavy metal disc (the tejo) across about 20 meters, aiming for a tray of mud (cancha). The real thrill? The target has a metal ring (bocin) containing a parcel of gunpowder (mocha). Success is met with a small explosion and a satisfying bang.

What sets tejo apart is its unique ‘payment’ system. It’s not the game you pay for, but the beers you drink while playing – the game comes free with your drinks. This quirky aspect turns tejo into a distinctly Colombian experience, blending sport with leisure in a way that’s hard to find anywhere else. Increasingly popular among foreign tourists, tejo offers a fun glimpse into local culture and a chance to mingle with both locals and fellow travelers.

Los Amigos in Salento is the go-to spot for an authentic tejo experience. Here, the game is typically combined with enjoying a beer, and each player is expected to buy a bottle (around 3500 COP each) with an additional nominal fee of 1000 COP per person. It’s located just two streets north of Calle Real, on Carrera 4 between Calle 3 and 4. If you have trouble finding it, any local will likely point you in the right direction.

6 Visit a Coffee Finca

Salento, while renowned for its iconic wax palm trees, is also celebrated for its coffee farms nestled in the heart of Colombia’s coffee cultural landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage site. These farms offer more than just scenic beauty; they provide a deep dive into coffee growing and production. In a country that exports most of its coffee beans, these tours are a great opportunity to sample some of Colombia’s finest coffee right at the source. But joining a coffee farm tour is not just about savoring high-quality brews; it’s an educational journey tracing the journey of coffee beans from the plant to your cup. You’ll gain insights into the critical role of coffee in Colombia’s culture and economy, and understand the entire production process. Most tours include a tasting session where you can indulge in various coffee types and brewing methods.

El Ocaso

After a lot of research I chose to visit El Ocaso coffee farm on my trip to Salento, and chose their three-hour premium tour. 

The tour kicks off with an informative presentation about coffee, followed by a walk through a section of the farm. Here, you get hands-on experience by picking coffee beans yourself. This is followed by a visit to the processing area, a staple of any coffee farm tour. The standout feature of El Ocaso’s tour is the ‘sensorial workshop’ in their coffee lab. Picture a room that feels like a chemistry classroom, where you’re engaged in various sensory exercises. These exercises are designed to sharpen your sense of smell and taste, helping you identify the true aromas and flavors of high-quality coffee. It’s an enlightening experience that leaves you with a newfound appreciation for coffee and, perhaps, a slight intolerance for anything less than great coffee.

Finca El Ocaso in Salento, Colombia

For those seeking to delve deeper into the world of coffee, this tour is a fantastic choice. It’s not just about tasting; it’s about learning and appreciating the finer points of coffee culture.

Regarding the logistics, the standard coffee tours at El Ocaso are priced at 25,000 COP, with English tours available at multiple times throughout the day. For Spanish speakers, there are additional time slots. The premium tour, which includes the sensorial masterclass we enjoyed, is priced at 70,000 COP. With limited spots available each day, it’s wise to book this tour in advance through their website. While there is an option that includes transport from Salento, we recommend arranging your own transport for a more economical choice.

Reaching El Ocaso is straightforward – just hop on one of the ‘Willy Jeeps’ from Salento’s main square. They depart hourly, cost 3,000 COP per person, and the journey takes about 20 minutes. It’s a convenient and authentic way to start your coffee exploration.

7 Drink great coffee in town

Tucked away in Salento’s lively town center, Café Jesus Martin stands as a coffee sanctuary, steeped in a narrative as rich as the coffee it serves. The café’s namesake, Jesus Martin, is not just a revered figure in the Colombian coffee scene, but also wears multiple hats as a farmer, innovator, and café proprietor. Although his Santa Ana farm is not open to the general public, his café warmly welcomes visitors to experience the fruits of his award-winning efforts.

The café features a wide range of coffee options, their pour-over coffees are the best for appreciating the taste. The baristas here are also happy to educate people about everything from the origin of the beans to the details of their brewing techniques. As a bonus, they have great cakes and cookies (especially the chocolate cake), and the tranquil space is perfect for working.

Empty Salento restaurant terrace in the sunset with a man in a hat
A glass of coffee in a coffee shop in Salento, Colombia

8 Day Trip to Filandia

Filandia, a picturesque town, is a mere 30-minute drive from Salento. It shares Salento’s vibrant aesthetic, boasting houses adorned with brightly painted doorways, window frames, and roof tiles in a spectrum of rainbow hues. Yet, Filandia offers a more tranquil ambiance, making it an ideal day-trip destination for those seeking to avoid Salento’s bustling crowds.

The town is renowned for its delectable cuisine, local coffee farms, and the stunning waterfalls in its vicinity.

Men with a guitar in a wheelchair talking on the streets of Filandia, Colombia
Wall painting with coffee plant motif in Filandia, Colombia

9 Go on a monkey tour

Near Filandia, you can take a tour to visit Barbas Bremen national park to look for howler monkeys. Do not attempt this trek without a guide, it’s very easy to get lost in the jungle and instructions on Google Maps are all wrong!

Your guide will take you through beautiful trails, while telling you about the most outstanding aspects of the region, as well as the history and habitat of howler monkeys. During the walk you will be able to connect with nature, take a bath in a waterfall and enjoy seeing howler monkeys in the wild. These monkeys are completely wild, and you will only spot them from a distance (if you’re lucky!), not interact with them directly, so the tour very much respect nature and its inhabitants. I found it super exciting to walk around looking for the monkeys who I could hear all the time on my South American trips, but never actually spotted. Until now! 

Howler monkey on a tree in the wild
Howler monkey on a tree in the wild

How to get there

From Armenia | The most common and easiest way to get to Salento from Armenia is by bus. Armenia, being the closest major city to Salento, has frequent bus services to Salento. Buses run roughly every 30 minutes from Armenia’s main bus terminal. The journey takes about 45 minutes to an hour.

From Pereira | Regular bus services operate from Pereira to Salento. Buses depart from Pereira’s main bus terminal and the journey takes about 1 to 1.5 hours. It’s a scenic route, offering views of the coffee landscape.

From Medellin | The journey from Medellin to Salento is longer, taking about 6 to 7 hours. Buses depart from Medellin’s North Terminal (Terminal Norte). It’s also possible to take a bus to Armenia or Pereira first and then transfer to a bus heading to Salento. This option can be more comfortable as it breaks the journey into two shorter segments. An alternative is to fly with Avianca or LATAM from Medellin to either Armenia or Pereira and then catch a bus to Salento.

Colorful jeeps standing on the main square of Salento, Colombia, with palm trees in the background

How to get around

Salento is a small, walkable town, and most places in the center can easily be explored on foot. The main square, Calle Real, restaurants, and cafes are all within a short walking distance.

To visit nearby attractions like the Cocora Valley, you’ll need to use the traditional Willys jeeps, which depart regularly from the main square. These shared jeeps are the most common and convenient way to get around and are part of the experience itself.

For more flexibility, you can also rent a bicycle to explore the surrounding countryside or take a taxi to coffee farms and viewpoints. Tours are widely available and can be booked through your accommodation or online.

How much time you need

I recommend spending at least two nights in Salento. This gives you enough time to explore the town and visit the Cocora Valley without rushing. You’ll need one full day for the Cocora Valley hike, which is the main highlight of the area. Another half to full day can be spent visiting a coffee farm or simply enjoying the relaxed atmosphere of Salento. If you have more time, staying three nights allows for a slower pace and the chance to explore nearby villages like Filandia or go on additional hikes in the surrounding hills.

Where to stay

Viajero Hostel (budget) | Situated in one of Salento’s first houses, which has been completely renewed, the hostel provides a blend of historic charm and modern amenities. It is conveniently located just 400 meters from the Main Square and Calle Real, offering easy access to the town’s attractions. The hostel accommodates up to 90 guests and features big gardens, a bar with mountain views, and a variety of room types from dormitories to private rooms with mountain views. There are a range of facilities such as Wi-Fi, a fully equipped kitchen, a computer area, a game zone, and weekly organized activities like dance classes, coffee courses, yoga classes, and live music. 

Coffee Tree Boutique (budget) | A budget-friendly hostel with quality private rooms, located on the outskirts of Salento. It provides a balance between affordability and comfort, with lovely grounds and common areas​​.

Casa de las Dos Palmas (mid-range) | Located in the heart of Salento, this hotel offers a quiet environment with a mini pool and pretty gardens, suitable for all types of travelers​​.

La Cabaña Ecohotel (eco) | Located between Salento and the Cocora Valley, this lodge is perfect for nature lovers, offering easy access to the valley and a comfortable, homely atmosphere​​.

Ecohotel Piedemonte (eco) | Situated west of Salento, this country lodge is immersed in nature, offering cottages for families or couples​​.

Hotel Kawa Mountain Retreat (upscale) | A luxury lodge just outside of town, offering a blend of rustic charm and luxury with stunning mountain views. It’s ideal for a romantic getaway​​.

Glamping Lumbre (upscale) | For a unique experience, this glamping site near the Cocora Valley features dome-style accommodations with beautiful mountain views​​.

Hotel Terasu (upscale) | A luxury hotel on the southern edge of Salento, providing modern comforts with great mountain views​​.

Where to eat

Donde Laurita | Is a well-known restaurant in Salento, famous for offering traditional Colombian cuisine. It is particularly noted for its warm, inviting atmosphere and the quality of its local dishes (especially trout!)

Shalem | Stands out for its focus on health-conscious and vegetarian-friendly options. Their trout is also great, and the interior looks really cool.

Coco Bowl | Coco Bowl is your place to go if you’re craving something healthy and veggie loaded. It specializes in vegetarian and vegan dishes that are not only delicious but also visually appealing, often using tropical ingredients and flavors, and is right next to the stairs leading up to el Mirador.

Rincon de Luci | This establishment offers a cozy and intimate dining experience for a low price. Renowned for its home-style cooking, Rincon de Luci serves a range of traditional dishes, often with a personal touch. 

Somevi Pizzeria | Though far from real Italian, the pizza is pretty good! The ambiance is casual and friendly, making it an ideal place for a relaxed meal with friends or family.

Pink restaurant terrace with diners in Filandia, Colombia
Colorful house facade in pink and blue in Salento, Colombia

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find the best routes and prices using Skyscanner or Expedia, especially useful for comparing regional connections and flexible dates.

Accommodation

I usually check Booking.com, Agoda (especially in Asia), or Hostelworld to compare hotels, guesthouses, and hostels across budgets.

Travel Insurance

I travel with Heymondo for medical coverage, theft protection, and trip disruptions, especially important for longer trips or solo travel.

Tours & Activities

If you want to book day trips, guided hikes, or experiences, Getyourguide, Viator and Klook are all reliable with flexible cancellation.

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Internet & SIM

For instant connectivity, I recommend Airalo eSIMs, which let you get online without buying a physical SIM at the airport.

Money & Payments

I use Wise for card payments and ATM withdrawals to avoid bad exchange rates and high foreign fees.

VPN

Before traveling, I always install Surfshark. It’s free, keeps your data safe on public Wi-Fi, and lets you access services that might be restricted abroad.

Start planning

If you’re actively planning your trip, these are the tools I personally use and recommend to book safely, save money, and avoid unnecessary stress.

Flights

Find any flight on Skyscanner or Expedia

Hotels

Booking.com and Agoda for hotels, Hostelworld for hostels

Insurance

Heymondo for medical coverage, theft, trip disruptions

Tours & Activities

GetYourGuide,  Viator and Klook are all reliable, with flexible cancellation

Transportation

DiscoverCars for car rentals. Omio (in Europe), BusBud and 12Go (globally) for trains and buses.

Money & Payments

A Wise card for free ATM, good FX rates and low fees

VPN

I use Surfshark

Where to next?

If this guide helped you understand what it’s really like to travel in Colombia, the next step is planning your route. Start here for a complete overview:

Colombia Travel Guide
(destinations, transport, costs, and practical tips)

Planning your itinerary?

These sample routes help you decide how much you can realistically see without rushing.

2-week Colombia itinerary: ideal for first-time visitors who want cities, culture, and nature

3-week + Colombia itinerary: a slower route including hidden gems like Caribbean islands, desert and jungle.

Traveling solo or want extra safety tips?

If Colombia is your first trip to South America, these guides will help you feel prepared:

Solo Female Travel in Colombia
(safety tips, neighborhoods, and real expectations)

10 Things to Know Before Traveling to Colombia

Explore Colombia by destination

If you prefer to plan by destination, these in-depth guides cover some of Colombia's highlights:

Things to Do in Medellín

Guatapé Day Trip from Medellín

Cartagena Travel Guide

The Coffee Region (Eje Cafetero) Guide

Providencia, Colombia's paradise island