Skip to main content
Category

National Park

The ultimate guide to Bako National Park, Borneo, Malaysia

Baby monkey on a tree in Bako National Park, Borneo, Malaysia

Overview

Bako National Park, located in Borneo, Malaysia, is a significant natural attraction known for its diverse wildlife and landscapes. It’s famous for the native proboscis monkeys and hosts a variety of other species. The park offers a mix of ecosystems, from mangroves and rainforests to stunning coastlines with unique rock formations. It’s ideal for hiking, wildlife spotting, and appreciating Borneo’s natural beauty. Bako’s accessibility and rich biodiversity make it a top destination for eco-tourists and nature enthusiasts.

Boats in Bako National park on the beach, waiting for passengers

Wildlife top 10

  • 1   Proboscis monkey (Nasalis larvatus)
  • 2   Silvery Lutung (Trachypithecus cristatus)
  • 3   Crab-Eating Macaque (Macaca fascicularis)
  • 4   Bornean Bearded Pig (Sus barbatus)
  • 5   Keeled Pit Viper (Tropidolaemus subannulatus)
  • 6   Plantain Squirrel (Callosciurus notatus)
  • 7   Pitcher plant (Nepenthes ampullaris)
  • 8   White pink orchid (Arundina speciosa blume)
  • 9   White-lipped frog (Hylarana raniceps)
  • 10 Mangrove (Rhizophora mangle)

Fauna

Bako National Park is a treasure trove of unique wildlife. The park’s star attraction is the proboscis monkey, known for its distinctive large nose and found only in Borneo. These monkeys are often spotted around the park headquarters, especially in the early mornings and late afternoons. Along with them, you might also encounter long-tailed macaques, silvered langurs, and bearded pigs. Birdwatchers can look forward to a variety of bird species, from colorful kingfishers to the rare oriental darter.

Proboscis monkey, Bako park Malaysia

Flora

The park’s flora is equally impressive, with a rich array of plants including carnivorous pitcher plants and a variety of orchids. The diverse habitats, from mangroves to dipterocarp forests, support this variety of plant life.

Viewing tips

For the best wildlife viewing, the area around the park headquarters is a good starting point, as many animals are accustomed to human presence here. Additionally, the trails leading to Ulu Assam (No. 3, red/blue) Telok Paku (No. 4, white) are excellent for spotting wildlife in a more natural setting. Early mornings or late afternoons are the best times for wildlife spotting, as animals are more active during these cooler parts of the day.

Silver monkey, Bako park Malaysia

Hiking and trails

Hiking

Bako National Park offers a variety of hiking trails, suitable for different fitness levels and interests. The trails range from easy walks to more challenging treks, each offering a unique perspective of the park’s diverse landscapes and wildlife.

The best trails are Ulu Assam (No. 3, red/blue) Telok Paku (No. 4, white). They are relatively short, taking about 1 to 2 hours, and offer a great chance to spot proboscis monkeys and other wildlife. Intermediate hikers will enjoy the Lintang trail (No. 9, red), which is a bit longer and covers various types of vegetation, from mangroves to lowland forests. This trail provides a comprehensive experience of Bako’s diverse ecosystems. This trail shares a section with trail 3 and 4 (this is the part to best spot monkeys).

When planning your hike in Bako, consider the heat and humidity, especially on longer trails. Start early in the morning, and carry enough water and snacks. Before you go, talk to the guides at the park’s HQ, they will update you on which trails are closed and give you a simple map. Also, there is a Log Book for trekkers – before you go anywhere, sign your name in the book and the trail you’re headed for. If you don’t arrive by nightfall they will come looking for you. This is a great security service so take advantage of it and don’t forget to sign out!

List of all trails

OPEN TRAILS

  • 2   Telok Delima (white/blue): Good for spotting proboscis 0.25 km, 45 min
  • 3   Ulu Assam Trail (red/blue): Combines swamp forest and challenging climbs, rewarding coastal views. A good trail to spot proboscis and a lot of frogs around dusk 0.8 km, 1¼h
  •   Telok Paku (white): Leads to a secluded beach, great for proboscis 0.8 km, 1h
  • 5   Telok Pandan Besar (yellow): Feature stunning bay and sea views 0.75 km, 1h
  • 6   Telok Pandan Kecil (yellow): Feature stunning bay and sea views, ends at a beach. 1.5 km, 1 ½ h
  • 7   Tanjung Rhu (red/yellow): Leads to a rocky peninsula with unique geological features 1.8 km, 2 ½h
  • 9   Lintang (red): A loop trail through various vegetation types, ideal for a full-day hike 5.25 km, 3½h

CLOSED TRAILS

  • 1   Tanjung Sapi (red/white): A steep trail with scenic coastal views.The easiest trail in the park, but has been closed for some time. 0.5 km, 30min
  • 8   Tajor (white/red): Passes through different vegetation, leading to a beach and Tajor Waterfall. 2.75 km, 2 ½h
View from Bako park trails
View from Bako park trails

Accommodation and facilities

Accommodation

In Bako National Park, you can choose from various accommodation options depending on your preference and budget. All the accommodation in the national park belongs to the park, there are no hotels or private operators. You can book individually through this website, and pay online or later at the park entrance (only in cash!). If all the options here appear sold out, it is probably because most of the rooms have been sold to tour operators (who have reserved spots), so you can still stay overnight if you book with a tour company in Kuching.

All lodging options

Forest Lodge Type 6: This is where I stayed. Each house has 2 rooms, 2 single beds per each.  Facilities: Fan, small refrigerator, hot shower, blankets, attached bathroom and toilet, small terrace in front. You can book one room or the entire lodge.

Forest Lodge Type 5 (Terrace): A bigger building, Type 5 has 8 rooms with 4 single beds in each room. Facilities: Fan, blankets, attached bathroom and toilet, terrace.

Forest Lodge Type 4: This is probably the fanciest option and sells out very fast. Each house has 2 rooms, with 2-4 single beds in each room, depending on size. Facilities: Air-conditioning (a huge relief here!), small refrigerator, blankets, attached bathroom, toilet and shower (only house 1 & 2 has a hot shower, but you really don’t need it).

Camp Site: The park has a dedicated camping area where you can pitch your tent. Tents have to be taken down in the morning every day, and rebuilt after dusk, because of the monkeys.

Forest Hostel: basic dormitory-style rooms for those looking for a cost-effective stay. These offer shared facilities and a simple, no-frills experience.

Facilities

Regarding amenities, the park’s headquarters houses the only cafeteria, serving local meals and some Western dishes. It has opening hours (B 07:30 – 11:30, L 11:30 – 16:00, D 18:30 – 20:00). They also have snacks, cold drinks and beer. Since this is the sole place to buy food and drinks in the park, it’s wise to bring your own snacks and water, especially for longer hikes. Basic toilets are available at the headquarters and along the main trails.

How to get there

To get to Bako National Park from Kuching, you have a few options for transportation. The most common and budget-friendly way is to take the big red number 1 bus (Rapid Kuching), which departs hourly from the open market near Jalan Masjid. It costs around 4RM per person and takes about 45-60 minutes to reach the Bako Boat Terminal. If you prefer a quicker option, minivans are available near the same market, charging around 5RM per person. The minivans depart once they are full and take less time compared to the bus. Taxi and Grab is another alternative, costing around 60RM to the boat jetty.

Once at the Bako Boat Terminal, you need to take a boat to reach the park. Boat tickets are priced at 200RM per boat for a return trip and each boat can accommodate up to 5 adults. It’s a good idea to team up with others if you’re traveling solo to share the cost, but make sure to go early! Most of the day trippers go before 11am, so if you arrive after, you’ll have to pay for the whole boat. The boat ride to the national park takes about 20 minutes.

For a more structured trip, and convenient if you’re short on time, there are guided tours available from Kuching, which include transportation, a guide, and sometimes meals. This full-day tour to Bako is a great one. If you prefer to stay overnight and go for a night walk in the jungle, this overnight Bako tour is the one to go with. Going with a tour is also a great idea because having a guide here makes a huge difference – they can spot animals that are practically invisible, elevating your chances from about 10% to spot a wild proboscis monkey to 99%. So yeah, even if you go to the park solo, hire a guide!

When to go

The ideal time to visit Bako is during the dry season, between March and September. During these months, the weather is more favorable, and the sea conditions are calmer, making boat travel to the park more comfortable. The dry season also tends to offer better wildlife spotting opportunities. However, the park is open year-round, and each season offers a different experience. Visiting during the wet season, from October to February, means fewer crowds and lush greenery, though some trails may be muddy or less accessible.

Conservation and Visitor Etiquette

For your safety

Maintain Distance: Always keep a safe and respectful distance, especially from bigger animals. Being too close to them can cause stress and alter their natural behaviors. Remember how all the zombie movies start with a bite from a monkey, bat or other animal? Yep. Better be on the safe side.

Do Not Feed Animals: Feeding wildlife disrupts their natural diet and can lead to health problems and dependency on human-provided food (also, they can bite you).

No Souvenirs from Nature: Avoid taking anything from the park, including plants, rocks, and other natural materials, and take this very seriously! I saw a big news article printout at park HQ how two young visitors were SENT TO JAIL for trying to take out something from the park (I think it was bird eggs).

For your enjoyment

Observe Silently: Noise can frighten or disturb animals, and they will simply avoid you.

Take Out What You Bring In: Ensure you carry out all your trash, including food wrappers and plastic bottles, to keep the park clean and protect wildlife. If people start littering, the government will restrict the number of visitors or close the park entirely.

Tatacoa desert, a well-kept Colombian secret

Wide angle landscape picture of a white goat in the ochre colored Tatacoa desert as background in Colombia

The story of Tatacoa

Ok let’s add one more to the already incredible biodiversity scene of Colombia – a desert!

The Tatacoa Desert is a unique and off-the-beaten-path destination in Colombia with otherworldly sand formations in many shades of red and gray sculpted by ancient waterways. Tatacoa is not actually a desert geologically, but a 330 km2 tropical dry forest or semi-desert, which is a type of ecosystem characterized by seasonal rainfall patterns, with a prolonged dry season. The area is an arid zone, but receives a bit too much rainfall to be classified as a true desert. Over the centuries, wind and rain created odd shapes in the soil, and different minerals give it different colors, mostly gray and ochre —definitely not your average sandy desert vibe​. You will find impressive cacti that can grow over four meters tall, birds and a bunch of white goats.

Burrowing owl looking straight into the camera in Tatacoa desert, Colombia
Portrait of a white goat in the ochre colored Tatacoa desert as background in Colombia

Red desert

Tatacoa’s got a split personality in the best way. The star of the show is the Red Desert, also known as Cuzco. This place is no joke – the reds here are intense, thanks to the iron in the soil turning everything from ocher to rust and copper. It’s like walking on Mars, but with more cacti and the occasional snake, so watch your step.

You’ll find this alien landscape right near the local settlement’s center, which is why it’s the go-to spot for most travelers. The road slicing through Cuzco is dotted with viewpoints like Mirador El Cuzco and Mirador Laberinto, where you can get some killer backdrops for your photos.

But don’t just drive by. Pull over, lace up your hiking boots, and hit the trails. There’s a loop trek that’s not too tough and it’s well-marked, so getting lost is off the menu. This hike wraps you right into the heart of Tatacoa’s red zone, and it’s a front-row seat to some of the wildest landscapes you’ll ever see. 

Wide angle landscape picture of a white goat in the ochre colored Tatacoa desert as background in Colombia
Wide angle landscape picture of flowering cacti in the foreground and the ochre colored Tatacoa desert as background in Colombia
Close up of pink flowering cactus in Tatacoa desert, Colombia

The trail in the Tatacoa Desert kicks off from two spots: you’ve got the Mirador right across the street from the Astronomical Observatory, and then there’s another entrance behind La Gauca hotel. Keep an eye out for signs pointing out cool stuff along the way. The path’s easy to follow – just look for the wooden logs with yellow tape. The loop trail means no matter where you start or which way you go, you’re not missing out on anything. The Cementerio de Los Fosiles is as far as you should probably go. Beyond that, there’s not much to see, and you’ll likely be feeling the miles by then. It’s a smart call to head back from there and check out the next highlight on the trail map.

Trail sign pointing left, with cacti in the background in Tatacoa desert, Colombia
Young women on a scooter on a dirt road in Tatacoa desert, Colombia

Now, how tough the hike feels really depends on when you decide to take it on. It’s mostly flat, so no mountain-climbing skills are needed here. But let me tell you, the desert heat is no joke. We’re talking about nearly 40°C around midday. Maybe not the best move unless you’re a fan of roasting in the sun. Timing is everything here. Aim for sunrise or sunset for your hike. The heat’s way more manageable, plus the lighting is just perfect for photography. There’s zero shade along the trail, so gear up with water, a hat and put on some strong sunscreen. Also the road’s unpaved, which means lots of dust stirred up by passing vehicles so bring something to cover your mouth and nose.

Grey desert

Jump in your ride or flag down a tuk-tuk, because you’re only about 30 minutes away from flipping the script in Tatacoa. Leaving the Red Desert’s Martian vibes behind, you’re heading into the Grey Desert, a place that’s eight kilometers from Tatacoa’s center. This is where things get next-level surreal, earning it the nickname ‘The Valley of Ghosts’. Think Cappadocia in Turkey, but with a unique, moon-like twist that’s all its own.

Wide landscape photo of the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia

While you can scope out the scenery from the road, trust me, you want to get your boots on the ground. There’s a trail that’ll take you right through the heart of this lunar landscape. And if you thought the Red Desert was a trip, wait until you see the Grey. It’s quieter, more abandoned, giving you that ‘last person on Earth’ vibe, but totally safe. 

What to do apart from hiking

  • 1   Cool off in Piscina Mineral
  • 2   Stargaze in Tatacoa Desert

1 Cool off in Piscina Mineral

In the midst of the Tatacoa Desert, there’s the Piscina Mineral—an artificial pool that’s become a spot for both locals and travelers to beat the heat. But here’s the thing: the pool’s filled with water from one of the few reserves in the desert. A lot of locals aren’t too thrilled about that, seeing it as a not-so-great use of a precious resource. And honestly, the pool wasn’t promising when I visited (looked a bit dirty), so you might want to skip this spot and rather relax in a hotel pool in Villavieja. The view is good though – the blue pools are quite a surprising sight in the middle of all that gray.

Wide landscape photo of the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia with a pool in the foreground
Wide landscape photo of the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia
Wide landscape photo of the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia with a pool in the foreground

2 Stargaze in the Astronomical Observatory

Stargazing is one of the most popular things to do in the Tatacoa Desert. Thanks to the remote position and almost no artificial lights in the community, light pollution is very low. It can become cloudy, but on most days the sky is clear. Therefore the conditions for watching the stars are practically perfect. Every day, around 6:30 PM (program times can vary so confirm when you are in the desert), you can visit the Astronomical Observatory, which offers a guided tour and the possibility of using their telescope for stargazing. It costs 10 000 COP and is offered only in Spanish. You can also just decide to skip the official tour, and simply go out yourself just outside the inhabited area where it is pitch dark to look for the stars.

Observatory and cacti in the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia
Observatory and cacti in the grey desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia

How to get there

The Tatacoa Desert is in central Colombia, not too far from a small town called Villavieja in the Huila department. If you’re starting off in Bogotá, you’ve got a couple of choices: get on a quick 30-minute flight to Neiva, the nearest city to the desert, or take a scenic but longer 5-hour bus ride. Flights can be a bit pricey, so if you’re watching your wallet, the bus is a solid option with companies like Coomotor and Bolivariano offering rides for around 45,000 COP. Once you are in Neiva, get into a colectivo (shared minivan) to Villavieja, which is about a 45-minute trip, and then it’s just a 15-minute jaunt by taxi or tuk-tuk to the desert itself. Some colectivos might even take you directly to the desert if you ask nicely​​.

Wide landscape photo of the red desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia
Close up of a hand holding a pink cactus fruit in Tatacoa desert, Colombia

How to get around

Explore the Tatacoa Desert by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or walking. If you spend a night inside the Tatacoa Desert, you can opt to walk. However, we recommend renting a bike or tuk-tuk + guide to move around much faster. You can rent bikes in Villavieja or with your accommodation or book a biking tour online.

Observatory in the red desert in Tatacoa Desert, Colombia

How much time you need

I recommend spending at least one night in the Tatacoa Desert. It’s quite hard to reach, so not suitable for a day-trip. You need one full day from morning to evening to enjoy all the things to do in Tatacoa. Two nights would be ideal so you can split your journey over two days and also relax a little bit.

Where to stay

In the Tatacoa Desert, there are lodge-style hotels as well as fancy glamping experiences. Villavieja has more accommodation options. These are generally cheaper, and some have a small pool for you to cool down. I stayed at Casa de campo los Cactus, a basic but comfortable accommodation in the desert, because it was important to me to be able to walk out at night and sunrise to take photos of the red desert. The place is very authentic, the hosts are kind and the house is typical and cozy. I can recommend it!