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Overview

Once a booming mining town, Ipoh was known as “The Town Built on Tin”. Today, Ipoh is a city that beautifully combines historical depth with the best local flavors. Known for its striking cave temples carved into limestone cliffs and its famous white coffee, Ipoh offers a good mix of cultural exploration and culinary delight. The local cuisine highlight is Ipoh’s white coffee. Born from the creativity of Chinese migrants, this rich, caramel-flavored coffee is roasted with palm-oil margarine and served with sweetened condensed milk – a must-try experience that captures the essence of local tradition. Ipoh is just a short trip from Kuala Lumpur or Penang, accessible by train, bus, or car. It’s a great stop (and relatively unexplored by tourists) on the way to the Cameron Highlands, and its compact size makes it easy to navigate by walking, biking or public transport.

What to do

  • 1   Drink white coffee
  • 2   Visit Kek Lok Tong Cave Temple
  • 3   Stroll Through Concubine Lane
  • 4   Visit Sam Poh Tong temple
  • 5   See Tasik Cermin (‘Mirror Lake’)
  • 6   Visit the Railway station
  • 7   Admire Street Art in Mural Art’s Lane
  • 8   Walk the Heritage Trail
  • 9   Indulge in Ipoh’s food scene

1 Drink white coffee

Ipoh White Coffee is a renowned Malaysian beverage, famous for its unique flavor and rich history. Originating from Ipoh, the capital city of Perak, this coffee stands out for its special roasting process, where the beans are roasted with palm-oil margarine, giving the coffee its distinctive smooth and creamy taste. Unlike regular black coffee, Ipoh White Coffee is lighter in color and milder in taste, often served with sweetened condensed milk.

Allegedly Nam Heong coffee shop was the “origin” of white coffee. I find this claim highly doubtful, but not the coffee they serve today, which is very tasty. Another place I highly recommend is Lim Ko Pi coffee shop, which is even more atmospheric.

2 Visit Kek Lok Tong Cave Temple

Known as the “Cave of Ultimate Bliss” (subtle…), this temple is set in a cave with stunning limestone formations, believed to be over 250 million years old. These ancient formations create a majestic backdrop for the Buddhist and Taoist statues and altars inside. The temple, used for worship since the 1920s and open to the public since the 1970s, has a serene Zen garden at its rear, complete with a tranquil pond and lush greenery, perfect for reflection.

Easily accessible and cool inside, Kek Lok Tong is an ideal retreat from Malaysia’s tropical heat. You can reach the temple, about 5 km south of Ipoh’s city center, by car or local transport. Entry is free, though donations for upkeep are appreciated. As a place of worship, respectful attire is advised, but long sleeves are not mandated.

3 Stroll Through Concubine Lane

Concubine Lane, in the heart of Ipoh’s Old Town, is a historic street with a vibrant present. Originally associated with the mining boom of the early 20th century, where it was reputedly a hub for wealthy miners’ mistresses, it has now transformed into a lively tourist attraction. The narrow street is lined with a variety of shops, cafes, and stalls offering local snacks and souvenirs, providing a bustling atmosphere that blends the old with the new.

The lane’s traditional architecture and colorful facades are a nod to its rich history, while contemporary murals add a modern artistic touch. Concubine Lane is not just about shopping and eating; it’s a unique blend of history, culture, and urban renewal. Easy to access and situated in the bustling Old Town, the lane offers a distinctive and dynamic experience, reflecting the eclectic charm of Ipoh.

When you’re done with Concubine Lane, you can also visit Wife Lane and Market Lane nearby. Market Lane is decorated with beautiful hanging garlands and red lanterns that light up the area at night.

4 Visit Sam Poh Tong Temple

An impressive cultural and religious site, renowned for its striking cave temple, the largest of its kind in Malaysia. The temple’s entrance is marked by a colorful, intricately decorated façade, leading into a cave that houses various Buddhist deities. Within the cave, visitors are greeted by a serene ambiance, enhanced by the natural rock formations and light streaming in through openings.

This temple, discovered by a monk in 1890 who chose to meditate there, has since evolved into a significant place of worship. Beyond the religious aspects, Sam Poh Tong is famous for its captivating garden, featuring a large pond inhabited by turtles, a symbol of longevity in Chinese culture. The temple complex includes a vegetarian restaurant, offering a chance to taste local flavors in a unique setting.

Access to Sam Poh Tong is straightforward, situated about 5 km from the city center. It’s open daily, and while entry is free, donations are welcome for maintenance. You should dress respectfully, as it remains an active religious site.

There are also other interesting temples to see in the area:

– Ling Sen Tong Temple

– Kwan Yin Tang Temple

– Perak Tong Temple

5 Tasik Cermin (‘Mirror Lake’)

Tasik Cermin, known as Mirror Lake, used to be a hidden gem in Ipoh, offering a tranquil and beautiful escape. Nestled in a limestone karst complex, the lake is named for its mirror-like reflection of the surrounding cliffs and greenery. Unfortunately the site is not undiscovered anymore. An official entrance building has been erected that sells tickets for 4 RM per person, and has opening hours (9am-6pm). It’s a nice place for a hidden natural spot to combine with a stroll, but perfectly underwhelming (and outrageous) as a ticketed attraction.

It is located close to the Sam Poh Tong Cave Temple, but I couldn’t find a way to walk there directly through the fields. Unfortunately you need to follow the road, which is not very pleasant to walk in the heat and with the traffic. It’s better to hire a Grab and ask your drive to wait for you while you discover both the temple and the lake

6 Visit Ipoh Railway Station

Often referred to as the “Taj Mahal of Ipoh,” the train station is a splendid example of colonial-era architecture, combining both Moorish and Victorian styles. This grand white building, with its distinctive domes and turrets, is not just a transport hub but also a historical landmark in Ipoh. Constructed in 1917, the station is a testament to Malaysia’s colonial past and has been beautifully preserved to retain its historical charm.

Apart from its role as a railway station, it also houses a hotel, making it unique among railway stations. The elegant facade and manicured lawns in front provide a good setting for photography. The station’s interior, with its high ceilings and colonial design elements is impressive.

7 Admire Street Art in Mural Art’s Lane

Mural Art’s Lane in Ipoh is a colorful showcase of street art that brings the city’s walls to life. The murals depict various aspects of Malaysian culture and history, ranging from scenes of daily life to abstract interpretations of local folklore. These artworks not only add aesthetic value to the city but also encourage a deeper appreciation of Malaysia’s diverse heritage and community. The lane is easily accessible and makes for a good place for photographers looking to capture the essence of Ipoh’s creative spirit.

8 Indulge in Ipoh’s Food Scene

Ipoh is renowned for culinary delights like its unique white coffee, chicken and bean sprouts, hor fun (a type of noodle soup), and the famous egg custard tarts akin to Portugal’s pastel de nata. Here are the most famous ones and where to try them:

Chicken Rice (Lou Wong Tauge Ayam Kuetiau): A must-try dish in Ipoh is the Chicken Rice, particularly the version served at Lou Wong. This dish is simple yet flavorful, featuring silky-smooth chicken served with aromatic rice cooked in chicken stock. The added local touch is a serving of bean sprouts (tauge), which are unusually plump and juicy, thanks to the mineral-rich waters of the local area.

Dim Sum (Ming Court Hong Kong Tim Sum): No visit to Ipoh would be complete without trying some Dim Sum, and Ming Court Hong Kong Tim Sum is one of the best places to do so. This restaurant offers a wide variety of Dim Sum dishes, from steamed buns to dumplings, all freshly prepared and steaming hot.

Nasi Ganja (Kedai Kopi Yong Suan): Despite the provocative name, Nasi Ganja is simply a flavorful rice dish packed with aromatic herbs and spices, accompanied by various side dishes such as fried chicken, egg, and okra. It’s called “ganja” because it’s addictively good. The most famous place to sample this dish is at Kedai Kopi Yong Suan, where the recipe has been a closely guarded secret for generations.

Caramel Custard (Thean Chun): To finish off on a sweet note, head to Thean Chun, known locally as the “Hall of Mirrors,” for their Caramel Custard. This silky dessert is a perfect balance of sweet caramel and rich custard, providing a refreshing end to any meal.

One of the best places to eat in Ipoh is Vegan Delights Cafe. It stands out not only for a delicious plant-based menu but also for its extraordinary service provided by a team of deaf or mute staff. I loved my time here and the food was delicious!

9 Walk the Heritage Trail

If you are interested in the history of Ipoh, the Heritage Trail, a short walk passing by all the key sites of the old town, starts at Ipoh Railway Station.

How to get there

Ipoh is an ideal transitional destination en route to the Cameron Highlands or Penang. Regular buses and trains from Kuala Lumpur reach Ipoh in approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. Once in Ipoh, there are convenient bus services to the Cameron Highlands and Penang, or a 2-hour train ride to Butterworth for ferry access to Penang.

For easy booking, bus and train tickets can be purchased online. Alternatively, renting a car offers ultimate flexibility for exploring Ipoh and its surroundings. I suggest renting a car in Malaysia through Discovercars, which lets you compare many offers to find the best deal. Reserve your car rental here.

Where to stay

Ipoh offers a variety of accommodations, from budget hostels to luxurious resorts, located in the bustling town center or amidst tranquil nature. If you stay for around 2 days, choose a high-quality guest house in the old town as a base for your exploration. Here are the best choices in each category:

French Hotel (budget) | A great choice for travelers seeking affordability without sacrificing comfort. Located in the heart of Ipoh, this hotel offers clean, modern rooms at a very reasonable price. Its central location makes it easy to explore the city’s famous culinary spots and cultural sites on foot.

Bedrock Hotel (mid-range) | Bedrock Hotel provides a perfect balance of comfort and character, nestled within Ipoh’s Old Town. Each room is uniquely designed, blending modern amenities with heritage aesthetics. It’s an ideal stay for those who appreciate attention to detail and a central location close to historical landmarks.

Sekeping Kong Heng (boutique) | Sekeping Kong Heng, part of the renowned Sekeping chain, is celebrated for its minimalist and industrial design. This boutique hotel is set in a refurbished colonial-era building, featuring raw finishes and a lush rooftop garden. It’s perfect for guests looking for a stylish, artistic environment right in the cultural heart of Ipoh.

The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat (upscale) | For ultimate luxury and relaxation, The Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat is unmatched. Guests can unwind in private villas each equipped with their own pool and hot spring jacuzzi. The retreat also offers holistic spa treatments, gourmet dining, and serene tropical rainforest surroundings, making it a splendid escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.