The story of Tatacoa
Ok let’s add one more to the already incredible biodiversity scene of Colombia – a desert!
The Tatacoa Desert is a unique and off-the-beaten-path destination in Colombia with otherworldly sand formations in many shades of red and gray sculpted by ancient waterways. Tatacoa is not actually a desert geologically, but a 330 km2 tropical dry forest or semi-desert, which is a type of ecosystem characterized by seasonal rainfall patterns, with a prolonged dry season. The area is an arid zone, but receives a bit too much rainfall to be classified as a true desert. Over the centuries, wind and rain created odd shapes in the soil, and different minerals give it different colors, mostly gray and ochre —definitely not your average sandy desert vibe. You will find impressive cacti that can grow over four meters tall, birds and a bunch of white goats.
Red desert
Tatacoa’s got a split personality in the best way. The star of the show is the Red Desert, also known as Cuzco. This place is no joke – the reds here are intense, thanks to the iron in the soil turning everything from ocher to rust and copper. It’s like walking on Mars, but with more cacti and the occasional snake, so watch your step.
You’ll find this alien landscape right near the local settlement’s center, which is why it’s the go-to spot for most travelers. The road slicing through Cuzco is dotted with viewpoints like Mirador El Cuzco and Mirador Laberinto, where you can get some killer backdrops for your photos.
But don’t just drive by. Pull over, lace up your hiking boots, and hit the trails. There’s a loop trek that’s not too tough and it’s well-marked, so getting lost is off the menu. This hike wraps you right into the heart of Tatacoa’s red zone, and it’s a front-row seat to some of the wildest landscapes you’ll ever see.
The trail in the Tatacoa Desert kicks off from two spots: you’ve got the Mirador right across the street from the Astronomical Observatory, and then there’s another entrance behind La Gauca hotel. Keep an eye out for signs pointing out cool stuff along the way. The path’s easy to follow – just look for the wooden logs with yellow tape. The loop trail means no matter where you start or which way you go, you’re not missing out on anything. The Cementerio de Los Fosiles is as far as you should probably go. Beyond that, there’s not much to see, and you’ll likely be feeling the miles by then. It’s a smart call to head back from there and check out the next highlight on the trail map.
Now, how tough the hike feels really depends on when you decide to take it on. It’s mostly flat, so no mountain-climbing skills are needed here. But let me tell you, the desert heat is no joke. We’re talking about nearly 40°C around midday. Maybe not the best move unless you’re a fan of roasting in the sun. Timing is everything here. Aim for sunrise or sunset for your hike. The heat’s way more manageable, plus the lighting is just perfect for photography. There’s zero shade along the trail, so gear up with water, a hat and put on some strong sunscreen. Also the road’s unpaved, which means lots of dust stirred up by passing vehicles so bring something to cover your mouth and nose.
Grey desert
Jump in your ride or flag down a tuk-tuk, because you’re only about 30 minutes away from flipping the script in Tatacoa. Leaving the Red Desert’s Martian vibes behind, you’re heading into the Grey Desert, a place that’s eight kilometers from Tatacoa’s center. This is where things get next-level surreal, earning it the nickname ‘The Valley of Ghosts’. Think Cappadocia in Turkey, but with a unique, moon-like twist that’s all its own.
While you can scope out the scenery from the road, trust me, you want to get your boots on the ground. There’s a trail that’ll take you right through the heart of this lunar landscape. And if you thought the Red Desert was a trip, wait until you see the Grey. It’s quieter, more abandoned, giving you that ‘last person on Earth’ vibe, but totally safe.
What to do apart from hiking
- 1 Cool off in Piscina Mineral
- 2 Stargaze in Tatacoa Desert
1 Cool off in Piscina Mineral
In the midst of the Tatacoa Desert, there’s the Piscina Mineral—an artificial pool that’s become a spot for both locals and travelers to beat the heat. But here’s the thing: the pool’s filled with water from one of the few reserves in the desert. A lot of locals aren’t too thrilled about that, seeing it as a not-so-great use of a precious resource. And honestly, the pool wasn’t promising when I visited (looked a bit dirty), so you might want to skip this spot and rather relax in a hotel pool in Villavieja. The view is good though – the blue pools are quite a surprising sight in the middle of all that gray.
2 Stargaze in the Astronomical Observatory
Stargazing is one of the most popular things to do in the Tatacoa Desert. Thanks to the remote position and almost no artificial lights in the community, light pollution is very low. It can become cloudy, but on most days the sky is clear. Therefore the conditions for watching the stars are practically perfect. Every day, around 6:30 PM (program times can vary so confirm when you are in the desert), you can visit the Astronomical Observatory, which offers a guided tour and the possibility of using their telescope for stargazing. It costs 10 000 COP and is offered only in Spanish. You can also just decide to skip the official tour, and simply go out yourself just outside the inhabited area where it is pitch dark to look for the stars.
How to get there
The Tatacoa Desert is in central Colombia, not too far from a small town called Villavieja in the Huila department. If you’re starting off in Bogotá, you’ve got a couple of choices: get on a quick 30-minute flight to Neiva, the nearest city to the desert, or take a scenic but longer 5-hour bus ride. Flights can be a bit pricey, so if you’re watching your wallet, the bus is a solid option with companies like Coomotor and Bolivariano offering rides for around 45,000 COP. Once you are in Neiva, get into a colectivo (shared minivan) to Villavieja, which is about a 45-minute trip, and then it’s just a 15-minute jaunt by taxi or tuk-tuk to the desert itself. Some colectivos might even take you directly to the desert if you ask nicely.
How to get around
Explore the Tatacoa Desert by tuk-tuk, bicycle, or walking. If you spend a night inside the Tatacoa Desert, you can opt to walk. However, we recommend renting a bike or tuk-tuk + guide to move around much faster. You can rent bikes in Villavieja or with your accommodation or book a biking tour online.
How much time you need
I recommend spending at least one night in the Tatacoa Desert. It’s quite hard to reach, so not suitable for a day-trip. You need one full day from morning to evening to enjoy all the things to do in Tatacoa. Two nights would be ideal so you can split your journey over two days and also relax a little bit.
Where to stay
In the Tatacoa Desert, there are lodge-style hotels as well as fancy glamping experiences. Villavieja has more accommodation options. These are generally cheaper, and some have a small pool for you to cool down. I stayed at Casa de campo los Cactus, a basic but comfortable accommodation in the desert, because it was important to me to be able to walk out at night and sunrise to take photos of the red desert. The place is very authentic, the hosts are kind and the house is typical and cozy. I can recommend it!