Tatacoa desert, a well-kept Colombian secret

The story of Tatacoa

Ok let’s add one more to the already incredible biodiversity scene of Colombia – a desert!

The Tatacoa Desert is a unique and off-the-beaten-path destination in Colombia with otherworldly sand formations in many shades of red and gray sculpted by ancient waterways. Tatacoa is not actually a desert geologically, but a 330 km2 tropical dry forest or semi-desert, which is a type of ecosystem characterized by seasonal rainfall patterns, with a prolonged dry season. The area is an arid zone, but receives a bit too much rainfall to be classified as a true desert. Over the centuries, wind and rain created odd shapes in the soil, and different minerals give it different colors, mostly gray and ochre – definitely not your average sandy desert vibe​. You will find impressive cacti that can grow over four meters tall, birds and a bunch of white goats.

Is Tatacoa Desert worth visiting?

Yes – but only if you enjoy landscapes, photography, and off-the-beaten-path destinations. Tatacoa is not about ticking off major sights. It’s about the atmosphere, the silence, and the unique landscapes. If you’re short on time, you can skip it. If you want something different, it’s absolutely worth it.

Red desert

Tatacoa’s got a split personality in the best way. The star of the show is the Red Desert, also known as Cuzco. This place is no joke – the reds here are intense, thanks to the iron in the soil turning everything from ocher to rust and copper. It’s like walking on Mars, but with more cacti and the occasional snake, so watch your step.

You’ll find this alien landscape right near the local settlement’s center, which is why it’s the go-to spot for most travelers. The road slicing through Cuzco is dotted with viewpoints like Mirador El Cuzco and Mirador Laberinto, where you can get some killer backdrops for your photos.

But don’t just drive by. Pull over, lace up your hiking boots, and hit the trails. There’s a loop trek that’s not too tough and it’s well-marked, so getting lost is off the menu. This hike wraps you right into the heart of Tatacoa’s red zone, and it’s a front-row seat to some of the wildest landscapes you’ll ever see. 

The trail in the Tatacoa Desert kicks off from two spots: you’ve got the Mirador right across the street from the Astronomical Observatory, and then there’s another entrance behind La Gauca hotel. Keep an eye out for signs pointing out cool stuff along the way. The path’s easy to follow – just look for the wooden logs with yellow tape. The loop trail means no matter where you start or which way you go, you’re not missing out on anything. The Cementerio de Los Fosiles is as far as you should probably go. Beyond that, there’s not much to see, and you’ll likely be feeling the miles by then. It’s a smart call to head back from there and check out the next highlight on the trail map.

Now, how tough the hike feels really depends on when you decide to take it on. It’s mostly flat, so no mountain-climbing skills are needed here. But let me tell you, the desert heat is no joke. We’re talking about nearly 40°C around midday. Maybe not the best move unless you’re a fan of roasting in the sun. Timing is everything here. Aim for sunrise or sunset for your hike. The heat’s way more manageable, plus the lighting is just perfect for photography. There’s zero shade along the trail, so gear up with water, a hat and put on some strong sunscreen. Also the road’s unpaved, which means lots of dust stirred up by passing vehicles so bring something to cover your mouth and nose.

Grey desert

Jump in your ride or flag down a tuk-tuk, because you’re only about 30 minutes away from flipping the script in Tatacoa. Leaving the Red Desert’s Martian vibes behind, you’re heading into the Grey Desert, a place that’s eight kilometers from Tatacoa’s center. This is where things get next-level surreal, earning it the nickname ‘The Valley of Ghosts’. Think Cappadocia in Turkey, but with a unique, moon-like twist that’s all its own.

While you can scope out the scenery from the road, trust me, you want to get your boots on the ground. There’s a trail that’ll take you right through the heart of this lunar landscape. And if you thought the Red Desert was a trip, wait until you see the Grey. It’s quieter, more abandoned, giving you that ‘last person on Earth’ vibe, but totally safe. 

What to do apart from hiking

Where to stay

There are two main options when visiting Tatacoa: staying in Villavieja (the gateway town) or staying inside the desert itself. Both have pros and cons, and your experience will feel quite different depending on what you choose.

Stay in Villavieja (best for comfort & logistics)

Villavieja is the small town right next to the Tatacoa Desert and the easiest place to base yourself. You’ll find more accommodation options, restaurants, and transport connections here. This is the best choice if you want: more comfort (AC, proper rooms, sometimes a small pool to cool down), easier access to food and transport, a smoother overall experience.

Tatacoa Star Eco Hotel | One of the best all-around options in town. Comfortable rooms with air conditioning, private bathrooms, and reliable amenities, which can make a big difference in the heat. Great if you want a balance between comfort and location.

Hotel Colonial Villavieja | A solid mid-range option right in the center. Clean rooms, good value, and walking distance to everything.

Hostal Arámbulo | A more budget-friendly but very well-rated option with a relaxed atmosphere. Good choice if you want something simple but nice.

Stay in the desert (best for experience)

Staying inside the desert is a completely different experience. You’ll be surrounded by the landscape, have incredible night skies, and can explore early in the morning before the heat and crowds. That said, it’s more basic and requires more planning. This is the best choice if you want a more unique, immersive experience, easy access to sunrise, sunset, and stargazing and fewer people around.

Casa de campo los Cactus | I stayed here, a basic but comfortable accommodation in the desert, because it was important to me to be able to walk out at night and sunrise to take photos of the red desert. The place is very authentic, the hosts are kind and the house is typical and cozy. I can recommend it!

Tubo Hotel Tatacoa | The most iconic stay in the area, known for its colorful “tube” rooms. It also has a pool, restaurant, and social vibe, which makes it a great base in the heat. This is the best option if you want something fun and memorable rather than traditional.

Mirador Valle de la Tatacoa | A more scenic, quieter option with amazing views over the desert. Perfect if you want something more peaceful and less hostel-like.

My recommendation

If you’re short on time or prefer comfort, stay in Villavieja and visit the desert on day trips. If you want a more unique experience, split your stay: 1 night in Villavieja + 1 night in the desert. This gives you the best of both worlds without overcomplicating logistics.