Overview
The San Bernardo archipelago is not very far away from Cartagena, and is a beautiful island paradise, still, most tourists haven’t even heard about it let alone taken the slightly inconvenient journey to get here. There also wasn’t much on the internet that I could find when researching for my trip there. So here is a summary of what I found out on the way.
The Islas San Bernardo is a group of ten coral islands nestled in the Gulf of Morrosquillo in the Caribbean Sea, roughly 80 km (50 miles) south of Cartagena. The archipelago forms part of the Corales del Rosario y San Bernardo National Park, highlighting the importance of its marine and coral ecosystems. Of the 10 islands, only a few are accessible for visitors.
The islands
Isla Tintipan
The largest and most beautiful San Bernardo island. It’s made up of mangroves and secluded white-sand beaches and has great coral reefs for snorkeling. I recommend staying here.
Isla Mucura
The most famous island, known for its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters. Hotels privatize 80% of the island. Pick your accommodation cautiously. Punta Faro is the most upscale hotel in the archipelago.
Santa Cruz de Islote
This island stands out as one of the most densely populated islands on earth, providing a fascinating glimpse into the local community’s way of life. It is only 200 meters long and 120 meters wide. It’s hard to tell exactly how many residents there are, some say around 1200, but that’s likely to be an overestimation (a census from the mid-2010s reported the population to be 492). However, there are 97 to 115 homes with 45 permanent families in this tiny place. The whole island is concrete, and every square centimeter is used. Crazy to imagine that people actually live here. It’s interesting but…seeing it from the boat or stopping here for max half an hour is probably enough. Locals are friendly and sell popsicles to the boats that briefly stop to pick up or drop off passengers, but there isn’t much more to do here.
Isla Palma
It’s the nearest island to Rincon del Mar. The island is divided into 2 hotels. You can party here.
What to do here
For those seeking a more active adventure, the island offers kayaking, paddleboarding, and fishing trips. Visitors can also take a boat tour of the archipelago, which includes stops at other beautiful islands in the area.
One of the most unique experiences on Isla San Bernardo is the opportunity to swim in a bioluminescent lagoon. At night, the water in the lagoon glows blue-green, creating a magical and otherworldly experience.
Note on Casa en el agua
Let’s talk a little bit about Casa en el agua, the “eco hostel on an island”. This is probably the only better known place in the archipelago among international travelers (well they do have a flashy website in English after all). I was even considering staying here because it was so hard to find anything else about the rest of the islands. Well, we did stop there on the way to and from Cartagena with the speedboat to pick up some people, and my already formulated opinion that I was very smart not to stay here further solidified when I saw the place in real life. It is really not my kind of place. Which doesn’t mean at all that it’s a bad place, or that you couldn’t have fun here.
Just don’t stay there because you feel like there are no other options – there are! It is very feasible to get to other islands on the archipelago and you will have enough things to do and you can organize your own trip. However, the islands have a very different feel. They are calm, with few people who generally keep to themselves and relax and enjoy nature all day. It’s very unlikely you’ll get your party fix there, so if company is rather what you’re looking for, go for Casa en el agua for sure!
How to get there
From Cartagena | From Cartagena directly, you embark on a roughly two-hour boat journey from the Muelle de la Bodeguita dock. These boats typically set sail between 8 and 10 am. Keep in mind, the ride can be choppy, and there are luggage weight restrictions to watch out for. Upon arrival at the docks of your chosen island, further arrangements may be necessary to reach your accommodation, such as a short walk or an additional boat hire. Return trips to Cartagena usually commence around noon from Isla Múcura’s public pier as the first stop. When I traveled to Isla Tintipan there was essentially one speedboat operator running, Tranq it Easy. There is only one daily departure, so it’s very important to book the boat trip with them (or other operators if available), because hotels don’t guarantee your getting there – I heard about people who had to miss a night on the islands because the boat was full. The price is about 300k COP, it isn’t cheap (compared to Colombian prices), but it’s worth it. You can very easily book this trip online.
From Tolú | It is a cheaper but much longer journey. It might make a lot of sense to stay in the area of Rincon del Mar once you travel that far south, another hidden gem of tranquil seaside living in Colombia. There is a bus from Cartagena to Tolú (about 5 hours 20 min), and there is only one boat per day (40 min) that leaves from Tolú to the islands at 8:30 (so you’d need to spend the night in Tolú).
Tip | You can only pay by cash on the islands (except a few hotels). The sea is rough from December to April.
