Overview
Setenil de las Bodegas offers a unique experience that blends history, architecture, and natural beauty. This village is not just another of Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos, it stands out for its ingenious use of natural geography, creating a landscape that is both functional and breathtaking. Setenil de las Bodegas is renowned for its houses built into the rock, a testament to human ingenuity and the power of nature. The village stretches along the Trejo River gorge, with homes seamlessly integrated into the surrounding caves and overhanging rocks. This design not only creates an enchanting aesthetic but also serves a practical purpose, keeping homes cool in summer and warm in winter. Setenil’s history is as captivating as its landscape. The village’s strategic importance is evident in its rich history, dating back to prehistoric times (believed to have been home to Troglodytes, or cave dwellers) and through the Muslim occupation of Spain. Originally named for its flourishing wine trade (with “Bodegas” translating to ‘wineries’), it has seen a decline in wineries over time. Today, it’s more renowned for its tasty olives and almonds, and of course, its unique cave houses.
What to do
- 1 Stroll down Calle Cuevas
- 2 Explore the Arab Castle (Nazari Castle)
- 3 Find the scenic lookouts
- 4 Explore the countryside
1 Stroll down Calle Cuevas
The main street of Setenil is called Calle Cuevas del Sol (Caves of the Sun), distinctively situated beneath a vast overhanging rock. This sun-drenched street has numerous cave restaurants nestled among giant boulders, with a tiny stream adding to its charm. While here, you can try the wild asparagus soup, a speciality of the village, and soak in the breathtaking views.
While it’s the most popular part of the village, the true charm of Setenil lies in wandering its less-trodden paths. Take a stroll through the more secluded Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (Caves of the Shade) or ascend further up into the village to admire the traditional white houses and panoramic viewpoints.
2 Explore the Arab Castle (Nazari Castle)
A must-do activity in Setenil de las Bodegas is exploring the historic remains of the Arab Castle, dating back to the 12th century. Known as Nazari Castle, this fortress was once a formidable structure boasting about 40 towers. It played a significant role during the ‘Reconquista’, the period of conflict between the Moors and Christians. The castle was so resilient that it reportedly took the Christians 15 days and over seven attempts to finally seize it and reclaim the village. This legendary resistance is what inspired the other half of the town’s name ‘Setenil’, derived from the Latin ‘Septem Nihil’, translating to ‘7 times no’. Today, only one tower of this historic castle remains. However, you can still ascend to its top for a nominal fee of just 1 EUR, where you’ll be rewarded with spectacular views of the village and the valley below.
While it’s the most popular part of the village, the true charm of Setenil lies in wandering its less-trodden paths. Take a stroll through the more secluded Calle Cuevas de la Sombra (Caves of the Shade) or ascend further up into the village to admire the traditional white houses and panoramic viewpoints.
3 Find the Scenic lookouts
Apart from the castle, the village boasts various viewpoints that offer stunning perspectives. The best spots are:
Calle San Sebastian: Located in a relatively high part of town, this spot offers a lovely overview of the village’s white houses. It’s about a 15-minute walk from Calle Cuevas del Sol.
Calle Ventosilla Alta: The highest viewpoint you can find.
Mirador del Lizon: This observation deck is accessible 24/7, offering continuous opportunities to take in the sights.
Mirador del Carmen: Worth the climb of 93 steps, this viewpoint promises rewarding views. Directions to Mirador del Carmen can be found here.
4 Explore the countryside
Traveling to Setenil de las Bodegas is an adventure that starts with the journey itself. The landscapes around the village are beautiful – the roads lead you through olive groves and sunflower fields, gradually ascending towards the village and its encompassing canyon. The drive between Olvera and Setenil is particularly beautiful. It also makes sense to add a day to walk around this beautiful landscape. There are several walking trails very near, like this one and this one. If you want to explore even longer, consider spending some time in Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park.
How to get there
A lot of people visit Setenil de las Bodegas from Malaga or Sevilla on a day trip. Setenil can be combined beautifully with Ronda (the most stunning of the region’s cities!) just like on this highly rated full-day tour from Malaga.
The most convenient way to reach Setenil is by car. This is also a great option, as Andalusia is one of the best regions to consider doing a road trip in. You can rent a car at the airport if you fly into Jerez (which is very close but only has a very small airport) or Malaga (a bigger hub for international flights). Either way you will be able to drive around the bigger highlights and some of the white villages in the region.
Where to stay
Experience staying in one of the typical cave houses. There are several options to stay in one, from boutique hotels to Airbnbs, but make sure to book ahead in high season! Some of the best ones are Casa Bajo la Roca and Casa Cueva Un Rincón en la Roca. Hotel Villa De Setenil is not a cave hotel but has excellent reviews and is a reliable choice in a great location.