The 9 white villages
- 1 Arcos de la Frontera
- 2 Ubrique
- 3 Villaluenga del Rosario
- 4 Grazalema
- 5 Zahara de la Sierra
- 6 Olvera
- 7 Setenil de las Bodegas
- 8 Ronda
- 9 Vejer de la Frontera
The white villages of Andalusia, or ‘Pueblos Blancos’ are characterized by whitewashed walls, red or brown tiled roofs, narrow alleyways, and steep streets, and often feature town squares with a church and town hall. There are 19 of them in the province of Cadiz within Andalusia.
Why are they called “white villages”?
The White Villages of Andalusia, known as Pueblos Blancos, are a group of picturesque towns and villages in Southern Spain’s Andalusia region. These villages are characterized by their dramatic landscapes, historical significance, and distinctive white-washed buildings. The tradition of white-washing buildings in this region has historical roots linked to practical and health reasons.
The Moors, who controlled the region until the Christian reconquest in 1492, left a significant architectural legacy, including the characteristic white-washed buildings. Eduardo Mosquera Adell, a scholar of historic architecture at the University of Seville, notes that the 14th-century Andalusian-Arab scholar Ibn Khaldun described a method for making whitewash, or cal, from slaked lime. This practice began during the Islamic era, with the primary purpose of keeping homes cool during the hot Andalusian summers. Over time, the pristine white color of the buildings also came to symbolize hygiene. This was particularly significant during the 16th to 19th centuries when a series of epidemics swept through the region. Houses were painted with cal following outbreaks of diseases such as plague, cholera, and yellow fever. Notably, studies have shown that slaked lime can kill bacteria that cause cholera, suggesting that this practice may have had genuine health benefits.
Many of the villages were once fortresses strategically located between Christian and Moorish territories, particularly between Cadiz and Malaga, and often bear names ending with “de la Frontera” (of the frontier).
Overall, the White Villages of Andalusia are not just tourist attractions; they are living monuments to the region’s rich and complex history, where Moorish and Christian influences meet, and traditional practices continue to influence life to this day.
1 Arcos de la Frontera
The scenery around Arcos de la Frontera stands out as one of the most remarkable among Andalusia’s famed white villages. Perched above the Guadalete River, the town unfolds gracefully, with its steep, winding streets ascending from the riverbanks. Within the village, a rich tapestry of architectural styles awaits – Roman, Moorish, and Baroque influences meld together, reflecting the town’s dynamic history of conquests and reconquests. As you wander through the village, you’ll find yourself on steep, winding streets lined with quaint shops and inviting cafes, and many historical sites to see.
Things to see
- The view of Arcos de la Frontera from the Guadalete River is a must-see. The village, with its quaint houses perched precariously along the cliff’s edge, offers a stunning demonstration of nature and architecture in harmony.
- Basilica of Santa Maria: This isn’t just a place of worship; it’s an architectural marvel. Its ornately carved exterior is a testament to Arcos de la Frontera’s rich artistic heritage.
- Cabildo Square: Walking through this square is like traversing through time. The square, dominated by a 15th-century church built on Moorish foundations, offers a profound connection to the historical depths of the village.
- The Town Hall: A centerpiece in the main square, this building captivates with its colorful facade and architectural grace, a perfect subject for those who appreciate historical aesthetics.
Where to eat
- El Nuevo Faro: Typical Spanish fare, but with a twist. The atmosphere is casual and the dishes very tasty. This is the first place we ate in Arcos, and came back the next day!
- La Chumina: I personally think La Chumina is overrated and overpriced. It is very popular though, the design is cool, and the croquetas are undeniably good. It has a different offer from the typical tapas place, so try it out for yourself if you’d welcome a change.
- Bodega Tesalia: A stone’s throw from Arcos, this winery is a celebration of local viticulture. Here, wine tasting is more than a sensory delight; it’s an educational journey into the heart of regional wine-making traditions.
Where to stay
- Posada de las Cuevas: This is where I stayed and was very happy with the place! It’s right at the entry to the old town, close to many great restaurants and bars, has cute and super clean rooms, and a fantastic rooftop terrace where you can have the included breakfast (which is also great). Wi-fi doesn’t really reach the rooms, but it’s strong enough in the common areas.
2 Ubrique
Ubrique, a quaint village cradled in a valley at the foothills of majestic mountains, is scenically positioned between two significant national parks, Los Alcornocales and Grazalema. As you approach, the village presents a picturesque view with its charming red-tiled roofs set against the backdrop of the mountain.
Renowned as one of the ‘Pueblos Blancos’, Ubrique boasts a long-standing tradition in leather craftsmanship. This village has been a hub for producing high-quality leather goods, including designer bags, for many years. A visit to the Museo de la Piel de Ubrique is highly recommended. This beautiful museum showcases the art of ancient leather bag making, offering visitors a glimpse into the town’s rich artisanal heritage.
The streets of Ubrique are a delight to explore. The town is adorned with white houses, and the vibrant pink and purple bougainvillea climbing the walls add delightful bursts of color to the landscape. As you wander through Ubrique, don’t miss the chance to visit its significant historical sites, such as the Arabic Castle of Fatima and the remnants of an ancient Roman road.
If you love the outdoors, Ubrique offers excellent opportunities for hiking. Trails leading into the mountains and hills above the village reveal stunning natural scenery and provide a perfect way to experience the serene beauty of the surrounding landscape.
3 Villaluenga del Rosario
Villaluenga del Rosario, nestled along a rocky mountain cliffside, is a picturesque town whose name translates to ‘the long town of the rosary’, a nod to its elongated shape. The town’s unique geography makes it a standout destination, especially during winter when it’s blanketed in snow, and in summer, when its white houses shine brilliantly under the sun and blue sky.
Interestingly, Villaluenga del Rosario is the highest of all Andalusia’s white villages, perched at an altitude of 900 meters above sea level. This elevation makes it an ideal spot for hiking enthusiasts, with numerous trails ascending the mountain and leading to about 100 caves in the vicinity, ripe for exploration.
A visit to one of Spain’s most beautiful cemeteries, located within the ruins of a church destroyed by Napoleonic troops, is a must. The remains of old stone arches create a serene and poignant setting above the white graves and vibrant flowers, with the backdrop of mountains enhancing its tranquil beauty.
Another notable feature of Villaluenga del Rosario is its ancient bullring, carved directly into the mountain rock. This venue, which offers a panoramic viewpoint at the village’s edge, is mainly used for concerts and performances today, and is an ideal spot for watching sunsets.
Where to eat
- The village is renowned for its sheep cheese, a primary local product. You can visit Queso Payoyo, a renowned cheese shop where you can purchase some to take home. (You’ll be able to find the Payoyo cheese all across the region, so don’t feel like you’re missing out if you don’t stop here to try it!)
- For a meal, Meson Rural Los Caños is right next to the road, and is a decent place for lunch, dinner or some snacks
4 Grazalema
Grazalema holds a special place as one of the most beloved ‘pueblos blancos’ (white towns) in Spain, owing to its remarkable setting on a rocky ledge within the captivating Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. This picturesque village, with its rows of white houses crowned with terracotta tiles, sits amidst imposing craggy mountains, creating a scene that is a photographer’s dream.
While Grazalema is a popular destination on the tourist circuit, it tends to be bustling during the day and quieter in the late afternoon as tour buses leave and many cafes close. However, its prime location on the Ruta de Pueblos Blancos makes it a must-visit destination.
Things to do
- Enjoy a Coffee: Relax with a coffee in the main square, taking in the breathtaking views of the mountains that encircle the village.
- Hiking Adventures: The Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park offers numerous hiking trails, with the El Torreon hike being a particular favorite. The natural beauty of the park provides an unforgettable outdoor experience.
- Local Tapas: Venture into the lanes behind the main square to discover charming tapas restaurants, offering a taste of the local cuisine in a cozy setting.
- Llano del Endrinal Hike: For a shorter excursion, the circular Llano del Endrinal hike, starting from the village car park, is an excellent choice. This 2-hour, 2.2-kilometer hike offers another perspective of the stunning natural surroundings.
5 Zahara de la Sierra
Zahara de la Sierra, a captivating village in Cadiz, is a destination that seems to have leaped out of a postcard. Nestled in the northern part of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, this picturesque white village, with its backdrop of a turquoise blue reservoir and verdant fields, offers some of the most stunning scenery in Andalusia.
Things to do
- The Moorish Castle: Dominating the landscape, this 13th-century castle on a rocky promontory is a testament to Zahara’s strategic importance in history. The climb to the castle is rewarded with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the beautiful lake. This fortress once played a crucial role in protecting major cities like Malaga.
- Santa Maria de la Mesa Church: Don’t miss the chance to admire this church with its colorful spire and dome, adding a touch of architectural beauty to the village.
- Capilla de San Juan de Letrán: This picturesque chapel, built in 1958 on the site of an old hermitage, is a perfect spot for photography enthusiasts.
- Bridge of the Palominos: Crossing this bridge, standing at 1331 meters high, offers a unique perspective as you enter Zahara.
- Rowing on the Lake: Rent a boat and row on the lake to enjoy a different angle of Zahara de la Sierra and its castle.
- Stroll Through the Streets: Wander through the charming streets of Zahara, discovering quaint squares, delightful restaurants, and the authentic ambiance of the village.
- Hiking in Garganta Verde: For the adventurous, a hike through the dramatic gorge of Garganta Verde is an exhilarating experience.
- Photography: The village’s picturesque setting makes it a haven for photographers.
Where to eat
Local Tapas: Zahara offers a range of dining options. Enjoy tapas at popular spots like El Gallo or La Era, where you can savor local flavors and soak in the village atmosphere. Tip: Watch out because the place is tiny, and if you arrive out of season on a Sunday, it might be hard to find anything open.
Where to stay
El Pinsapo guest house: This is where we stayed and were really cozy on a chillier winter night. There is a common kitchen and living room with a fireplace, which was empty in early December so we lit the fire and had a very cozy evening:) The place is awesome in every other aspect too – it has coffee, tea, apples and snacks prepared, and a heater in the bedrooms (a rare thing in Andalusia!). Check in is very easy and there is also a terrace with a nice view.
6 Olvera
Olvera, a picturesque town in Andalusia, Spain, is a hidden gem waiting to be explored. Olvera’s landscape is dominated by its beautiful church and the reconstructed 12th-century castle, El Castillo Arabe de Olvera, both perched high on a hill. These historic structures are not only visually stunning but also rich in history and culture. With olive groves and rolling hills surrounding it, the town also presents breathtaking views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it an ideal destination for those looking to immerse themselves in tranquility and beauty.
Things to do
- Enjoy a Coffee: Relax with a coffee in the main square, taking in the breathtaking views of the mountains that encircle the village.
- Hiking Adventures: The Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park offers numerous hiking trails, with the El Torreon hike being a particular favorite. The natural beauty of the park provides an unforgettable outdoor experience.
- Local Tapas: Venture into the lanes behind the main square to discover charming tapas restaurants, offering a taste of the local cuisine in a cozy setting.
- Llano del Endrinal Hike: For a shorter excursion, the circular Llano del Endrinal hike, starting from the village car park, is an excellent choice. This 2-hour, 2.2-kilometer hike offers another perspective of the stunning natural surroundings.
7 Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil de las Bodegas offers a unique experience that blends history, architecture, and natural beauty. This village is not just another of Andalusia’s Pueblos Blancos, it stands out for its ingenious use of natural geography, creating a landscape that is both functional and breathtaking. It is renowned for its houses built into the rock, a testament to human ingenuity and the power of nature.
What to do
- Calle Cuevas del Sol: This main street, famed for its houses under overhanging rocks, is a must-visit. While it’s the most popular part of the village, the true charm of Setenil lies in wandering its less-trodden paths.
- Diverse Viewpoints: The village boasts various viewpoints that offer stunning perspectives. Look out for Calle Ventosilla Alta, the highest viewpoint, and Mirador del Lizon, an observation deck open round the clock.
- Arab Castle (Nazari Castle): A walk up to this castle is rewarded with panoramic views over the town. The castle’s historical significance, coupled with its commanding position, makes it a highlight for history enthusiasts.
- Troglodyte Heritage: The village’s history as a settlement for cave dwellers (Troglodytes) adds a prehistoric dimension to your visit, offering insights into the early human adaptation to natural landscapes.
8 Ronda
Ronda is a captivating city known for its breathtaking location and rich history. Perched dramatically above a deep gorge, it is one of the oldest cities in Spain. The city is divided into two parts by the stunning El Tajo canyon, with the Puente Nuevo bridge offering a spectacular view and linking the old and new parts of the city.
Things to do
- Walk over Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), the famous 18th-century bridge that spans the El Tajo gorge, connecting the old and new parts of Ronda. Standing over 100 meters above the canyon floor, it offers unparalleled views of the surrounding landscape.
- Discover Jardines De Cuenca, another spectacular viewpoint onto the New Bridge. These gardens, named in honor of Ronda’s twin city, Cuenca, provide a serene setting.
- And for the views, third time’s the charm, visit Mirador de Ronda & Alameda del Tajo, two exceptional viewpoints adjacent to the celebrated Plaza de Toros.
- Visit Plaza de Toros (Bullring): Renowned as one of the oldest bullrings in Spain, Ronda’s Plaza de Toros holds a special place in the history of bullfighting. I don’t recommend watching a bullfight, (they are pretty rare anyway), but visitors can tour the arena, the stables, and the bullfighting museum every day between 10am and 6pm.
- Walk around the city (especially in Old Town), and discover the many historical buildings
9 Vejer de la Frontera
Originally a Moorish fortress town, Vejer’s history is visible in the winding, cobblestone streets and the remnants of the ancient walls that once protected it. The town’s architecture is a beautiful blend of Moorish and Andalusian styles, with white-washed buildings and splashes of vibrant flowers adding color to every view. From almost anywhere in town, the views are simply breathtaking. The town overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar and, on clear days, you can see all the way to Morocco.
Things to do
- Check out the Castle: This old fortress, right in the heart of Vejer, is a must-visit. It’s not just a castle; it’s a storyteller, narrating tales of the past.
- Walk around the Divisorio: This ancient dividing wall offers more than just history; it offers a view that will leave you speechless.
- Visit the Weekly Market: The local market is a vibrant mix of colors, sounds, and scents. It’s the perfect place to pick up some local produce or a unique souvenir.
- Enjoy the Beaches: Just a short drive away, the beaches near Vejer are some of the best in Spain. Whether you’re looking to relax or try your hand at windsurfing, there’s something for everyone.
- Come for Cultural Festivals: If you’re lucky enough to visit during one of the town’s many festivals, you’re in for a treat. These celebrations are a vibrant display of local culture and traditions.
Where to eat
Hospederia Convento: The restaurant of Tugasa Convento San Francisco, a restored former convent used as a hotel. Just like the hotel, the restaurant is also amazing.
El Jardín del Califa: El Jardín is celebrated for its unique blend of Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine. It has a beautiful garden to sit and the food is indeed very delicious. Can only recommend!
Where to stay
Tugasa Convento San Francisco: A former Franciscan monastery dating back to the 17th century, is a standout option. Located in the heart of Vejer de la Frontera, it offers a tranquil and rustic atmosphere, with rooms featuring historic details like mosaics and religious frescoes. It was hands on the best hotel I stayed in on the Andalusia road trip and a very unique experience, which feels like a 5 star hotel in its beautiful design and fantastic customer service.