Hike details

Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi

Distance: ~16 km
Hiking Time: 6-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 500m

The trek begins in Mestia, a lively Svan town known for its medieval stone towers and alpine setting, and the administrative center of Upper Svaneti. 

The trek begins at Mestia’s main square. Head out through the gate by the new Queen Tamar statue and turn right. Follow the street until you reach the river, cross it, and turn left—this is where the marked route starts. The trail turns into a dirt path, gradually climbing past Hotel Tetnuldi and a row of wooden chalets as you leave Mestia behind. Soon, you’ll pass a large construction site on your right (likely a new hydroelectric plant).

Further along, you’ll notice some ruined buildings ahead. Before reaching them, turn right and head uphill. After gaining about 50 meters in elevation, the dirt path becomes more enjoyable, winding through light forests and pastures with great views of Mt. Ushba. Eventually, you’ll come to a meadow with another trail marker, directing you off the dirt road and onto a short, steep forest trail. This section reconnects with the main road within 10 minutes. At this point, turn right and walk for another 300 meters until you see a large meadow on your left, a great spot for a break.

About ten minutes beyond the meadow, you’ll reach a viewpoint overlooking the Svaneti valley, with the stunning Mt. Tetnuldi peak dominating the scene. This is the highest point of today’s trek.

From here, the trail descends into the valley. After ten minutes, you’ll arrive at a junction where a small path branches off to the left, heading slightly uphill into some bushes, while a larger path continues downwards. Choose the path depending where you stay overnight.

Where to stay?

Zhabeshi / Chvabiani / Majvdieri: The larger track is the “classic route” descending into the village of Zardlashi. From Zardlashi, the path turns east, following a larger track through Murshkeli village to Zhamushi, where it reconnects with the upper trail. If you’re staying in Zhabeshi take this route. Actually, it doesn’t really matter which village you are staying in, these are all found next to the main road (it’s visible on Google Maps). Some guesthouses are even just next to the road between villages.

Lakhiri: This route is more scenic but also slightly harder to navigate. Take the narrow path to the left, winding through young forest and passing a small construction site. Shortly, you’ll reach a transmitter—this marks where the now more defined trail turns south, reconnecting with the main route. To stay on the upper trail, look for a faint path to the left and head straight across the meadow toward the village of Lakhiri. The detour is well worth it, as Lakhiri is one of the most charming villages in Svaneti, largely untouched by tourism. The next day, turn right from here and descend into Zhamushi to rejoin the main trail.

Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi

Distance: ~10 km
Hiking Time: 5-7 hours
Elevation Gain: 900m

The Zhabeshi to Adishi leg of the trek is rewarding and moderately challenging. Leaving Zhabeshi, you’ll begin a gradual ascent up into more remote mountain terrain. This day starts with a steady climb, with breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. The hikes starts strong, but it’s a pretty short day overall. 

The best view on the Zhabeshi to Adishi hike is arguably the panoramic view as you emerge after the tough climb from the forested trails into the open alpine meadows. From this point, you’ll have views of several peaks of the Greater Caucasus, including Mount Tetnuldi in the distance (if you’re lucky and the weather is clear!)
By early afternoon, you’ll arrive in Adishi, with stone houses and Svan towers similar to those of Ushguli.

Where to stay?

I stayed in Nino & Tarzan guesthouse in Adishi and found it decent. It wasn’t mind-blowing but I also didn’t have any complaints. I had a room to myself with cozy wooden walls and plenty of warm blankets for very cheap, and the food was good (although I have to admit the fact that I tend to think food is great on multi-day hikes sometimes doesn’t have much to do with the actual quality of the food :D). There is a big terrace to chill, and you can meet many fellow hikers, the place is quite big.

Day 3: Adishi to Iprari (via Chkhunderi Pass)

Distance: ~17 km
Hiking Time: 6-8 hours
Elevation Gain: 700m (and descent 600m)

The Adishi to Iprari leg is one of the most challenging yet rewarding sections of the Mestia-to-Ushguli trek. It’s a relatively difficult hike with steep ascents and descents, plus a river crossing. This route includes the iconic Chkhunderi Pass with some of the best panoramic views of the Caucasus.

The day begins with the crossing of the Adishi River, which is one of the most memorable moments of the hike to Iprari. You will hear it several times on the trek and at the guesthouse in Iprari – it is important to leave early for this crossing, as water levels rise during the day, making it harder (basically everyone leaves their Adishi guesthouse latest by 9am). The river is icy cold, and the glacial melt gives it a pale, icy blue hue, and a swift and unforgiving flow, especially later in the day.

When you reach the crossing point, you’ll see a wide, rocky riverbed with a few faint trails from previous hikers. There’s no bridge – just the rushing water and the decision to cross.

Apart from the off-season, you’ll find locals with horses waiting to assist hikers. For a small fee, they’ll guide you across safely. I recommend taking a horse, not only because the small fee supports the locals, but because it can get pretty dangerous to cross. Many people attempted to cross on foot, and I ended up giving my trekking poles to a few people to help them and even saw a girl fall in the water (nothing happened but I bet it was very uncomfortable and cold).

Once you’re past the river, the trail immediately begins a steep ascent towards Chkhunderi Pass that will test your stamina. About halfway up, you’ll start to see the Adishi Glacier in its full glory. It’s a massive wall of ice that even makes a faint background hum with the melting ice trickling into streams below.

After the glacier view, as you approach the summit, the trail becomes rockier, forcing you to scramble over loose stones. The effort is intense, but worth it. This is the best view of the entire trek – at 2700 meters you’re surrounded by the peaks of the Greater Caucasus and several glaciers. Behind you, the Adishi Glacier dominates the landscape, while ahead, you catch glimpses of Ushba and Tetnuldi in the distance. 

Where to stay?

Guesthouse Betegi is the highest rated accommodation in the village and this is where I stayed. It was the best accommodation on the whole trek. It’s a family-run guesthouse that provides everything you need after a demanding day on the trail: simple, clean, warm beds, hot showers, fantastic home-cooked meals and great hospitality. It’s important to book in advance during the main trekking season (July–September), as Betegi is the most popular choice in Iprari (rightfully so).

Located in the direction of Iprari but slightly off the main route, Khalde is a quieter option that’s less frequented by tourists. It has limited guesthouses and basic facilities, yet offers a unique glimpse into village life in Svaneti. The detour here is worthwhile if you’re looking for a secluded, peaceful stop with fewer trekkers around.

Day 4: Iprari to Ushguli

Distance: ~10 km
Hiking Time: 4-6 hours
Elevation Gain: 450m

The final day is a shorter, more leisurely hike into the famous village of Ushguli. The trail starts with a gentle climb out of Iprari, passing traditional Svanetian villages. The way is mostly downhill or flat, giving you time to take in the beauty on the way – the hike offers fantastic views of Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s highest peak, especially as you approach Ushguli. 

Ushguli is a UNESCO World Heritage site, celebrated for its iconic stone towers and rich history. The village is set against the dramatic backdrop of Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s tallest peak, not a bad ending to your trek. Spend the afternoon (or even an extra day) checking out Ushguli’s ancient churches, towers, and narrow streets, rest in a guesthouse and savor local dishes like kubdari and Svan salt.

To get back to Mestia from Ushguli, the quickest option is by car, either through a shared taxi (30-40 GEL per person) or a private transfer (100-150 GEL), with the journey taking 2-3 hours. There are also occasional minibuses (marshrutkas) that run between the two locations for around 20-25 GEL, though schedules can be unreliable. If you’re a hardcore hiker, or like to punish yourself, you can also hike back along the same trail. It’s best to arrange transportation in advance, especially for shared taxis or private transfers.

Where to stay?

Ushguli offers a range of guesthouses, most basic but comfortable, often run by local families who prepare hearty meals and share insights about the area. Popular guesthouses include Guesthouse Davrikeli, a more comfortable stay known for its spacious rooms and incredible views of Mount Shkhara, Guesthouse Qaldea, a budget-friendly option with clean, simple rooms and fresh and filling food and Guesthouse Marina famous for its traditional Svanetian cuisine and comfortable rooms with modern amenities like Wi-Fi (rare in Ushguli).

How to get there

First you need to get to Georgia of course (probably flying). The capital city, Tbilisi, is the main hub for international flights, but other airports like Batumi and Kutaisi also have a good selection of international flights. Citizens of many countries (including EU, US, Canada, and Australia) can enter Georgia visa-free for up to 1 year. 

If you are already in Georgia, the quickest way to get to Mestia is by flight from Tbilisi (supposedly). There are daily flights operated by Tbilaviamsheni that take around 1 hour and typically cost between 100-150 GEL. I really wanted to try this flight and planned my itinerary around it, but my flight (and the ones in the next few days) were cancelled, so I’m not sure how reliable they are.

Of course you can also get to Mestia by car or bus (there is no train). The drive from Tbilisi to Mestia takes about 7-8 hours (approx. 450 km). Private car transfers range from 200-300 GEL, while marshrutkas are typically around 30-40 GEL per person. If you’re coming from Batumi on the Black Sea coast, the drive takes about 5-6 hours (approx. 250 km). Minibuses also operate on this route. Shared taxis are common for traveling between Mestia and other major cities like Tbilisi and Batumi and cost around 40-60 GEL per person, depending on the route and the season.

1 How long does the Mestia to Ushguli hike take?

The hike generally takes four days, covering about 55 kilometers. Each day typically involves 5-8 hours of hiking, depending on your pace, the trail conditions, and how much time you spend at scenic spots. Some hikers complete the trek in three days, though this requires longer days and may limit your time to explore along the way.

2 Do I need a guide for the hike?

The trail from Mestia to Ushguli is well-marked, making it navigable for independent hikers with basic trekking experience. However, if you’re new to hiking or prefer local insights, hiring a guide can enhance your experience. A guide can provide cultural insights, handle logistics, and assist with route choices if weather conditions change.

3 What level of fitness is required?

Moderate fitness is recommended for this hike, as it involves elevation gains, rocky paths, and occasional stream crossings. While the hike isn’t technically challenging, some sections can be strenuous, especially with a backpack. Training with day hikes or regular physical activity before the trip will make the journey more enjoyable.

4 Can I do this hike solo?

Yes, the Mestia to Ushguli hike is suitable for solo travelers, with clearly marked trails and other hikers on the route during peak season. For solo female travelers, it’s worth noting that Georgia is generally considered safe, and local hospitality in the Svaneti region is very welcoming. Homestays along the route also offer a chance to meet fellow travelers each evening.

5 What should I pack for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?

Essentials include sturdy hiking boots, a rain jacket, layers for warmth, a hat, sunscreen, a water bottle, and a small first-aid kit. While food is available at guesthouses, carrying some snacks is advisable. Trekking poles can be helpful for steep or rocky sections, and a lightweight sleeping bag liner is useful for additional warmth in some guesthouses.

6 Are there places to stay along the route?

Yes, there are guesthouses and homestays in each village along the route, making it possible to complete the hike without camping gear. These accommodations offer meals, beds, and an authentic glimpse into local culture. Reservations aren’t always necessary, but it’s wise to book ahead if you’re traveling in peak season (July-August) or with a large group.

7 What is the best time of year to hike from Mestia to Ushguli?

The ideal time for this trek is from late June to early October, when the weather is generally mild, and the trails are clear of snow. July and August are peak months with more hikers and fully open guesthouses, while September offers beautiful fall colors and fewer crowds. In early June or late October, snow can still linger on the trail, especially at higher elevations, making the hike more challenging.

8 Is there cellphone reception along the hike?

Cell reception can be limited or nonexistent in parts of the trail, especially in remote valleys. Most villages have some reception, and some guesthouses offer Wi-Fi. If staying connected is important, consider a local SIM card or portable Wi-Fi device, though it may not work everywhere along the route.

9 How do I get to Mestia and return from Ushguli?

Most travelers reach Mestia from Tbilisi, Zugdidi, or Kutaisi by train, bus, or domestic flight. Once in Mestia, the trailhead is accessible by foot. To return from Ushguli, you can book a shared or private 4×4 vehicle back to Mestia. It’s worth coordinating with other hikers or guesthouse hosts to arrange a ride, as roads are rough and transport is limited.

10 Do I need any permits for the Mestia to Ushguli hike?

No permits are required for this hike. However, it’s wise to register at your guesthouse before starting each day’s trek, letting hosts know where you’re headed and your expected arrival time in the next village. This is a common courtesy in the area and helps ensure your safety in case of unforeseen issues on the trail.

11 How safe is the hike?

The trail itself is generally safe and frequented by other hikers in peak season. While there’s no need to worry about major hazards, some sections involve river crossings or steep descents, so proceed with caution and keep an eye on the weather. Basic travel safety measures, like notifying someone of your daily plan and carrying an emergency contact, are recommended.