Overview
Up north within the Arctic Circle, Norway’s Lofoten Islands are a dream for nature lovers, with plenty of dramatic landscapes, authentic looking fishing villages, and an abundance of outdoor activities. While most travelers opt to explore these islands by car, it’s entirely possible to experience the magic of Lofoten without one. In fact, going car-free can lead to a more immersive, sustainable, and memorable adventure. Here’s how to make the most of your Lofoten experience without the need for four wheels.
Getting there
There are different transport option, depending where you come from:
– From Bodø, take a ferry to Moskenes or a speedboat to Svolvær
– From Oslo, Bergen or Bodø, fly directly into Svolvær or Leknes with Widerøe
– From Tromsø take the Hurtigruten coastal steamer (16-18h) or take a bus to Harstad and then a ferry
Arriving from Bodø, I chose to take the Moskenes ferry both ways. The speedboat to Svolvaer is pretty limited in departures and the times didn’t work for me. It takes longer than the ferry, and can be rougher too. The best part is, the ferry to Moskenes is free if you don’t have a car (you can pre-book tickets for a fee, but don’t do this, half the tickets are always available at boarding).
Getting around
One of the biggest challenges in the Lofoten Islands is actually getting around. All the travel guides and sources I could find make it sound like you absolutely cannot get by without a car or a van. Fortunately this is not true. The car rental in June would’ve cost around 300€ (!) per day, so I was determined to find another solution. Sure, it’s hard to get to certain areas or to explore in-depth on foot, but it’s easy to meaningfully spend 4-5 days and focus on the highlights or on only one area of Lofoten.
1 Buses in Lofoten
Lofoten has a reliable bus network that connects the main towns and villages across the islands The main bus route runs on the E10 highway, between the larger towns like Svolvær, Leknes, and Å (actually this is a combination of different routes, but it generally shows where you can get to by bus.
These buses are operated by Torghatten Nord and Nordland fylkeskommune. They don’t run often – typically a few times a day, with more frequent services in the summer. Use the Reis Nordland website or app to check bus schedules and plan your trips. You can buy tickets on the bus with cash or a card. Alternatively, purchase tickets in advance using the Reis Nordland app, which might offer slight discounts.
2 Cycling Around Lofoten
For an adventurous and eco-friendly way to explore, cycling is a fantastic option. Several shops in Svolvær, Leknes, and Reine offer bike rentals. Some accommodations might also rent out bikes to their guests. Here are the bigger bike rentals:
In Svolvær:
Lofoten Aktiv | Offers bike rentals, including electric bikes. They also provide guided cycling tours.
Lofoten Explorer | Known for kayak and boat tours, they also offer bike rentals. It’s a convenient option if you’re looking to mix activities.
In Leknes:
Intersport Leknes | A sporting goods store that provides bike rentals, especially in the summer. They offer a range of bicycles suitable for exploring the area.
Lofoten Basecamp | Located just outside Leknes, they offer bike rentals along with various other outdoor gear for hire, including tents and hiking equipment.
In Reine:
Reine Adventure | Known for their adventure activities and kayak rentals, Reine Adventure also offers bike rentals for exploring the nearby areas.
Reine Rorbuer | This accommodation provider sometimes offers bike rentals for their guests and can arrange rentals if needed. It’s a good option if you’re staying there or nearby.
The E10 highway, which runs through the islands, has relatively low traffic and stunning views, making it popular with cyclists. There are also quieter side roads and paths where you can cycle at a more leisurely pace. Lofoten’s terrain is varied, so be prepared for some hills and changing weather conditions. That said, the breathtaking landscapes make every pedal worth it.
3 Hiking: Discover Lofoten on Foot
Lofoten is a hiker’s paradise, and many of its most beautiful spots are best explored on foot. Trails like Reinebringen, Kvalvika Beach, and the trek to Munkebu Hut offer some of the most iconic views in Lofoten. These hikes vary in difficulty, so there’s something for everyone. Most trailheads are accessible by bus, and some are even walkable from towns. Always check the bus schedules to ensure you can return after your hike. Wear proper hiking boots and carry a map or GPS, as weather can change rapidly, and some trails can be challenging.
4 Guided Tours and Activities
If you prefer structured experiences, guided tours are an excellent way to see the islands. Here are some of the most popular tours from Svolvær, Leknes, and Reinebringen that you can book on GetYourGuide:
From Svolvær:
RIB Sea Eagle Safari to Trollfjord | This exciting boat tour takes you through the scenic Trollfjord, where you’ll have the chance to spot sea eagles up close. It’s one of the most popular wildlife tours in Lofoten and lasts about 2 hours.
Lofoten Islands 5-Hour Tour | This guided tour explores the islands’ landscapes, from scenic fjords to charming fishing villages like Henningsvær and Nusfjord.
Northern Lights Tour by Van | If you’re coming in winter, this 4-hour small-group tour provides expert guidance on where and when to spot the aurora.
From Leknes:
Private Lofoten Tour with Transfer | Explore Lofoten’s iconic spots, from Vik Beach to the picturesque village of Reine. This private tour allows flexibility, perfect for cruise passengers or with limited time.
Lofoten Landscapes Photography Tour | Designed for photography enthusiasts, this full-day tour takes you to some of Lofoten’s most photogenic locations, including Ramberg and Reine.
Tips
Why is it good, not to drive?
– Cost savings – obviously. As mentioned above, car rental can get extremely expensive. Not only that, but gas in Norway is also expensive, and unless you’re splitting the cost across several people, it adds to an already expensive destination.
– The roads are beautiful, but hard to drive. With lots of blind curves, heavy traffic (compared to the size of the place) and narrow lanes it looks pretty advanced to drive a van here.
– Lack of parking at destinations is very annoying and a big issue especially in high season.
The most important tips
- Plan well where to enter and exit the Lofoten – ferries and buses are not that frequent and distances can be big.
- Choose your bases carefully: I based my trip in Reine, which has easy access to other highlights, accessible trailheads and organized tours, like kayaking.
- Plan your transit ahead of time: schedule your bus trips between the cities and for your flight in advance. Transportation options also vary by season, with more services available in the summer, so keep this in mind.
- Be ready to bike: you can reach places like Henningsvær and lesser-known trailheads by bike. If you’re not open to cycling, you’ll likely have to stick to more structured, package tours.
- Travel light – a great idea on any trip, but especially important here.
- Be patient – embrace the slower pace of travel. Waiting for a bus or taking the scenic route often leads to unexpected discoveries.
Where to stay
Stay in a rorbuer (traditional fishermen’s cabin), which is a highlight in itself: Reine Rorbuer offers cozy, traditional rorbuer cabins right on the waterfront with breathtaking views of the surrounding fjords and mountains. The cabins combine rustic charm with modern amenities, so you can have a comfortable and warm stay.
Other than a rorbuer, here are the best options in all 3 towns:
(Reine) Catogården is a unique, cozy guesthouse that offers a blend of comfort and community. The house has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with shared kitchen facilities, beautiful common areas, a sauna and stunning views of the fjords. They also organise kayak tours.
(Leknes) Scandic Leknes offers a comfortable, modern stay in the heart of Leknes. It’s a great base for exploring the nearby beaches and fjords, with free parking and a convenient location. The hotel offers a cozy atmosphere with a restaurant serving traditional Norwegian dishes, ideal for both solo travelers and families.
(Svolvær) Thon Hotel Lofoten is a high-quality hotel located right by the harbor in Svolvær. Offering modern rooms with spectacular views, it’s a top choice for those who want to explore the town and its surroundings. The hotel also features an excellent restaurant serving local cuisine, and it’s well-known for its eco-friendly initiatives.
My actual itinerary
Day 0: Getting to Reine – hike to Hamnøy
I chose the Bodø – Moskenes ferry to get to the Lofoten, then made my way to Catogården, a comfortable guesthouse in Reine with great views, where I closed the day with a sauna session (and did manage a dip in the arctic water after 3 rounds of sweating!)
Day 1: Reine – Reinebringen Hike
I started the first day in Reine. First up was hiking Reinebringen – steep but totally worth it for the epic views over the fjords and villages.
Day 2: Å and Kayak Tour
On day two, I took a quick day trip to Å by bus, the last village on the archipelago, followed by a kayak tour around the fjords. Seeing Lofoten from the water was a highlight, offering a peaceful change from the mountain hikes.
Day 3: Flakstad – Lofoten Beach Camp and Nubben Hike
I moved to Lofoten Beach Camp in Flakstad, set up camp, and hiked to Nubben near Ramberg Beach. It’s an easy hike with great views over the coastline, and the beach camp was a nice, laid-back spot to relax afterward.
Day 4: Arctic Surfing and Midnight Sun Photography
On my last day, I went arctic surfing – not as cold as it sounds, but you do need a very thick wetsuit. Afterward, I made the most of the midnight sun to capture some amazing photos, with the sun never fully setting in the summer.
