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Overview

The Cocora Valley, nestled in Colombia’s Coffee Triangle (easily reachable from Salento), is a hiker’s paradise offering a mix of unique landscapes and rich biodiversity. This stunning valley, part of the Los Nevados National Natural Park, has wax palms, cloud forests, and scenic trails that attract people from around the world. 

The Iconic Wax Palms of Cocora Valley

The Cocora Valley in Colombia is home to the world’s tallest palm trees, the Quindío wax palms (Ceroxylon quindiuense), which can reach up to 60 meters (200 feet). Historically, indigenous communities used the wax from these palms for making candles. The trees also provide vital habitat and food for various species, including the endangered yellow-eared parrot.

The wax palms are known for their slender trunks coated with a thick layer of wax, which gives them their name. They thrive in the high-altitude conditions of the Andean cloud forests, typically found between 1,500 and 3,000 meters above sea level. Conservation efforts have been crucial in protecting these trees from deforestation and agricultural expansion, with national parks like Los Nevados National Natural Park helping to safeguard their habitat.

Route options

The short walk

Type: loop, Distance: 1km, Time: 30min, Difficulty: easy (just walk around among the trees on slight hills, no hiking boots are needed for this)

There are essentially 3 ways to hike the Cocora Valley (all are in the same place): 1) quick hike – If you don’t feel like hiking several hours, then you can do the quick scenic walk in Bosque de Palmas in about 30 min (this is essentially the very first part of the clockwise loop, and gives you access to the prettiest sights on the entire trek. Or you could even enjoy the same scenery on horseback

The long hike

Type: loop, Distance: 8.5km, Time: 5-7 hours, Elevation: 600 meters, Difficulty: moderate (the trail can be very muddy after rains and is quite steep in parts)

Or, you can choose to spend the day hiking in this beautiful area not only among wax palms but also a cloud forest (and potentially some hummingbirds). The long trek is a loop and you can do it 2) clockwise or 3) counter-clockwise. Clockwise you’ll be treated to the best sights in the beginning of the trail and have to do the tougher hiking near the end. Anti-clockwise you’ll need to work for your treat – go up a steep slope in the first stage to be treated to the best views at the end of your hike. There is much debate about which direction to go, and ultimately it’s a personal decision. I will describe the clockwise direction down below because this is what I chose.

Tips

– Acclimatize: Spend a day or two in Salento to acclimate to the altitude before your hike.

– Start Early: Begin your hike early in the morning to avoid afternoon rains and to have ample time to complete the loop.

– Guide or No Guide: The trail is well-marked, so a guide is not necessary, but hiring one can enrich your experience with local knowledge.

– There were a few stalls selling food and drinks at the trailhead, but you’ll be better off taking your own snacks or a picnic lunch for the hike. Many restaurants and cafes in Salento prepare “take away lunch” for the trail which is very convenient

– You can expect rain in the Cocora Valley at any time of the year, usually in the afternoons, but if you go in the dry season (December to February and June to August) there’s a good chance the trail won’t be very muddy

The clockwise trail

Phase 1

Cocora Valley to Bosque de Palmas (1-1.5h). The hike begins at the trailhead near the jeep drop-off point in Cocora. From the parking follow the dirt road with the horses (and hikers) to the trailhead. This is an area with some commercial activity – there are some food stalls and Cocora Valley signs to take photos with etc. You’ll need to go through this and pay a small entrance fee of about 15000 COP (3$) at a gate to the right, because the trail goes through some private land. This part of the valley is called Bosque de Palmas, and here is where you’ll be greeted to the best views of the hike – stunning views of the valley and the towering wax palms everywhere you can see. I chose the clockwise option for my hike because the weather forecast that day predicted clearer skies early on the hike – be sure to check this! From here, the initial part of the trail is a steady ascent through lush farmland and pastures.

Phase 2

Bosque de Palmas to Finca La Montaña (1-1.5h). The trail continues to ascend, becoming steeper as you approach Finca La Montaña. This section offers panoramic views of the valley as you climb higher, with the wax palms providing a dramatic backdrop. Finca La Montaña is a great place to rest, enjoy the views, and prepare for the descent.

Phase 3

Finca La Montaña to Acaime (Hummingbird Sanctuary) (1-1.5h). From Finca La Montaña, the trail descends through the cloud forest. The descent offers a mix of dense forest and open views, with opportunities to see various birds and other wildlife. After a bit of trekking there is an optional side trip to the Hummingbird house (it is not included in the track details, but there are trail markers on the main trail pointing in its direction). Acaime is a hummingbird sanctuary where you can take a break, enjoy a hot drink, and observe numerous hummingbird species up close. There’s an entry fee for the Hummingbird House of 15000 COP (US$ 3). Ithink it’s worth the detour, especially if you haven’t been to a hummingbird sanctuary before.

Finish

Acaime to Cocora Valley (1.5-2h). The final leg of the hike is a gradual descent, following the Quindío River and crossing several suspension bridges. This section of the trail is less scenic and can get quite steep and slippery at times (especially when muddy), so take care! You will get back to the point where you started the trek. Go to the jeep parking lot, and wait for a car to fill up to take you back to Salento, where you can have a well-deserved dinner and rest.

How to get there

The gateway to the Cocora Valley is the charming town of Salento (see how to get to Salento here). From Salento you can drive or take one of the shared jeeps, called Willys, to get to the trailhead in Cocora Valley. The Cocora Valley is a 25 minute drive from Salento You can park at one of the private parking lots near the trailhead (for about 5000 COP for half a day). Willys leave Salento roughly every 30 minutes to 1 hour, and you can also arrange private transport at most hotels or guesthouses. If you take a shared jeep, leave early to have better chances for good weather and to catch a return ride by 4 pm latest.

Colorful jeeps standing on the main square of Salento, Colombia, with palm trees in the background