Overview
There is probably no need to introduce Cappadocia – if you’re interested in Turkey you’ve probably seen pictures of the impossible pink stone formations or the balloons at sunrise. Cappadocia Valley is located in Central Anatolia, Turkey, in a region renowned for its geological formations, the “fairy chimneys” – tall, cone-shaped rock formations that have been sculpted by volcanic activity and erosion over millions of years. These formations, along with extensive networks of ancient cave dwellings and rock-cut churches, make Cappadocia a fascinating destination in Turkey.
Cappadocia is hardly a hidden gem. There are numerous daily flights from Istanbul (and all over Turkey) just to see the valley and go on a hot air balloon ride (so the local vendors hope). Göreme is overflowing with tourists and most of the hotels advertise themselves as “the one” having that unique view of the balloons at sunrise. More on that later, but you get the picture. Balloon riding is a herd activity, and the tourist hotspots are packed to the brim. But! and this is a big one, if you are willing to take just a step away from these hotspots you can still easily have a personal and serene experience in Cappadocia Valley. One of the best ways to do that is to go hiking among these beautiful rocks, that most tourists only glimpse from above or afar. After about 5 minutes of hiking you will probably be alone. Not only that but you can actually discover hidden case temples and beautiful viewpoints that are not on the map, and the whole hike will feel like true exploration. It is astonishing to me that so many people make the journey to Cappadocia and don’t even have half a day to spare for walking a bit – maybe they don’t know what’s out there!
Unique things to see in Cappadocia Valley
Route options
Hike 1
Rose valley + Red valley hike
Red valley | loop, 2.5km, 1h, easy
Rose valley | loop, 3km, 1h30min, easy
Meskendir valley | loop, 3km, 1h20min, easy
You have 3 options as a starting point for this hike. You can walk from Göreme or Cavusin to start the Rose valley hike (pink route), or if you have a car you can start from the parking lot near Kaya camping and add an additional hike through the Meskendir valley (turquoise route). Either way, the Red Valley hike (blue route) is an optional add on. You can decide if you want to continue to this loop from Rose valley. I recommend you do Rose + Red valley if you can, and try to time it so that you reach one of the viewpoints near sunset. There are many people who come by bus or car just to see the sunset, so if you’re feeling lazy this is also an option (there is a parking lot at the end of the road that leads to Red valley, you can see it in the map below). Alternatively, you could enjoy the same route and scenery on horseback. We’ve seen a few groups passing by on horses and it looked like a fun activity.
Hike 2
Pigeon valley + Uchisar + Love valley hike
Pigeon valley | one way, 1.5km, 50min, easy
Uchisar | loop, 1.5km, 1h, easy
Love valley | one way, 5km, 2h10min, easy
Back to Göreme | one way, 2.5km, 40min, easy
This hike is a huge loop from Göreme and takes around 5-7 hours, depending on your pace and how much time you spend at each stop. It is worth the effort though, leading you through some of Cappadocia’s most iconic landscapes plus Uchisar castle, a main sight. The trail is moderately difficult, with some steep sections, particularly when descending into Love Valley. You can either hike the whole route, or take a take a cab to shorten a part of it. It is a good idea to get a ride to the north trailhead of the Love valley hike, as walking on the main road is not very enjoyable. Or with a transport to Uchisar, it would be enough to venture a little bit into either or both valleys if you don’t feel like hiking the whole loop.
Hike 1: Rose valley and Red valley (detailed)
Starting point
There are 3 options to choose as starting point, depending on where you stay, and if you have a rental car. If you have rented a car, you can add Meskendir valley to your hike, which is a beautiful narrow canyon that heads arrow-like into the more colorful canyons. This is a one-way trail and adds 3pm to your total hike. You can park the car in a parking near Kaya camping. If arriving from Göreme you can either walk or get a lift to Rose valley trailhead 1 or 2. Probably a taxi is a good idea, as most of this walk would involve following the main road, which is not the most enjoyable way to spend your time.
Arriving from Cavusin is the best option in my opinion (not only because it’s the best place to stay and away from the crowds, but) because you can wander a bit around Cavusin before your hike and discover the view from Cavusin hill, and a traditional cave house furnished as it was used up until the 60s.
Rose Valley lower section
If coming from Meskendir Valley or Göreme, you’ll enter the Rose valley loop at the same point (Rose valley trailhead 2). At the G201 marker, turn right to enter Rose Valley, which is divided into two sections: Güllüdere I and Güllüdere II. The trail markers for these valleys are labeled G1, G2, or G12. Follow the path as it leads into the heart of Rose Valley. After about 500 meters, you will pass Anna Johachim Church, another fascinating rock-carved church. Continue straight at the G203 trail marker, ignoring the left turn.
The path soon brings you to the remarkable Kolonlu (Direkli) Church, known for its columns and ancient frescoes. Take your time to explore this unique structure before continuing on the trail. Shortly thereafter, at trail marker G1202, take the smaller path that passes to the left-hand side. This path quickly rises, offering some fantastic viewpoints over Red Valley before bending left. Follow the signs at trail markers G1205 and G1206 towards Güllüdere I-II Cikisi, leading you to Panorama Point. This is a great spot to rest and enjoy some refreshments while taking in the stunning panoramic views of the valleys.
Red Valley
From Panorama Point, you can decide if you want to make your way down into Red Valley (Kızılçukur Vadisi). If so, follow trail marker K11. Keep left at trail marker K10, soon passing Uzumlu Church and a nearby café. Instead of following the main Red Valley path down the valley, stay on the high ground to maintain the best views.
When you reach trail marker K7C, instead of going left as suggested, turn right and take the smaller path that crosses the valley and climbs up the other side. This route leads you to a fantastic viewpoint marked Demir Merdiven on Google Maps. Take a moment to enjoy the views before continuing on a path that gradually arcs to the right, bringing you back to the G1202 marker.
Rose valley upper section
Re-join your earlier path in Rose Valley and head towards Hacli Church, noted for its beautiful frescoes. From there, gain the ridge and follow the path northwest. The path will eventually bring you to a sign directing you down a steep slope. Avoid this route and instead head left, following the ridge’s contours as it gently descends back into Meskendir Valley.
Finish
Once back in Meskendir Valley (at Rose valley trailhead 1), turn left and walk the three kilometers back to the layby where you started (either to Rose valley trailhead 2, or all the way back to Göreme, Cavusin, or the parking lot). The final stretch of your hike is a great time to reflect on the varied landscapes, historical sites, and breathtaking vistas you have encountered throughout the day.
Hike 2: Pigeon valley + Love valley (detailed)
Pigeon valley
Begin your hike at Trail Marker G3 on Uzun Dere Road, located in the southeast of Göreme. The journey kicks off with following the signs that lead you up Pigeon Valley (Güvercinlik Vadisi). The initial part of the hike is quite engaging as you pass through a cute café and ascend a set of steps. As you make your way, the valley floor gradually rises and broadens, giving you a sense of the lush surroundings.
Once on the path, you’ll notice it bends to the right, going through a narrow section of the canyon. This part of the trail is especially nice with all the green vegetation and unique rock formations. As you navigate through the tightest part of the canyon, you’ll arrive at the Calgary Tea Garden. This spot is perfect for a short break where you can enjoy a cup of tea the views of the valley below.
Uchisar
Continuing your ascent, the path climbs out of Pigeon Valley and merges onto the Göreme-Uçhisar road. Turning left on this road, you’ll head towards the imposing structure of Uchisar Castle, which will be visible from a distance, serving as a natural guide. The entrance to the castle is on its south side. Uchisar Castle, carved from a massive rock, is pretty impressive with its tunnels and rooms.
After exploring Uchisar Castle, head back towards the Love Valley (Bağlıdere Vadisi) trailhead, which is located about 100 meters past where you exited Pigeon Valley on the main road towards Göreme. The path to Love Valley begins to the left of the Ozler Centre. As you approach marker B6, take the right fork and follow the sign pointing to Love Valley.
Love valley
Descending into Love Valley from marker sign B5, you’ll encounter a steep path that requires careful footing. The trail then turns right, guiding you along the valley floor. The canyon walls of Love Valley are enclosing, making navigation straightforward, although you might need to backtrack occasionally to navigate around a local farm or follow a dried-up riverbed.
As you continue, you’ll eventually arrive at the iconic phallic rock formations that make Love Valley famous. This area offers an otherworldly landscape, perfect for photography and quiet reflection. Here, you can stop again for tea at Keres Cafe before continuing your hike.
Finish
To return to Göreme, follow the path as it bends to the right and the valley widens, eventually meeting the main road. Turning right onto the main road, you’ll follow it back into Göreme, completing your hike. This final stretch is not very enjoyable, so it might be better to catch a taxi back to Göreme.
Tips
– Navigating the paths in the Red and Rose Valleys can be challenging due to the overwhelming number of signs. Trail markers often point in unclear directions, red scribbles on walls can indicate both left and right turns, and many signs are broken, buried, or crossed out. Don’t pay too much attention to them.
– Also don’t worry too much about being on the wrong path. The valleys are relatively small, and you can’t go too far off track, especially with Google Maps. Getting lost and found again is part of the hiking experience in Cappadocia.
– You could combine the Rose and Red Valley loops with watching the hot air balloons at sunrise, but you’ll need to be on the paths early to catch this sight (probably better to watch from the terrace of your hotel).
– It can be very hot with little shade available. Wear sun protection and a hat and definitely bring water with you! Some cafes along the trails may be open, but not all.
