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Overview

Baku, Azerbaijan, is perfect for a long weekend getaway – you will get a glimpse of a unique culture (especially if you haven’t been to the Caucasus yet), a fair amount of sights to occupy you, and a good price-quality ratio for accommodation and food. It is also a good starting point for your trip in the region – after spending a weekend in Baku, you can take the overnight train to arrive to Georgia and continue to be impressed.

Baku’s history dates back to ancient times, and its strategic location Baku – between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus Mountains – has made it a significant trade and cultural center throughout history. However, today Baku’s skyline is dotted with impressive modern architecture and these modern sights are worthy to see. The Flame Towers, three skyscrapers shaped like flames, have become a symbol of contemporary Baku. Another architectural marvel is the Heydar Aliyev Center, designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid, known for its flowing, futuristic design. Baku is a city of contrasts, where ancient history and modern development coexist seamlessly.

Caucasus mountains seen from the plane of a Wizz Air aircraft

What to do

  • 1   Check out the Old Town of Baku
  • 2   See the oil pumps and oil fields
  • 3   Visit a mosque
  • 4   Stroll along Baku Promenade and see Mini Venice
  • 5   Hike up highland park for a great view
  • 6   Admire Heydar Aliyev Centre
  • 7   Do a Day trip: Gobustan, Mud volcanoes, Yanar Dag
  • 8   See Atesgah Fire Temple
  • 9   Admire the Flame Towers
  • 10  Try Azerbaijani cuisine

1 Check Out The Old Town Of Baku

The Old Town of Baku, also known as Icherisheher, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the oldest part of the city. It’s surrounded by medieval walls and features narrow, winding streets that lead to historic buildings and monuments. Inside the Old Town, you can find landmarks like the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, which was once the residence of the Shirvanshah dynasty rulers, and the Maiden Tower, which is a mysterious cylindrical structure that dates back to the 12th century.

The Old Town also has several charming cafes and restaurants where you can try local cuisine and relax after a day of exploring. Actually it’s not a bad idea to go for traditional food here – places are not overpriced or catered exclusively to tourists – many locals eat here which is always a good sign. Qaynana is one of the well known places that didn’t disappoint, I’ve been here twice during a short trip (the aubergine salad is so good!).

Good to know | If you want to eat dinner in one of the traditional restaurants in old town, make sure to book in advance! When I visited all high rated places were full on a Saturday evening, even though there were barely any tourists in the city in April.

Old town of Baku
Entrance of Qaynana restaurant in Old Town, Baku

2 See the oil pumps and oil fields around Baku

Baku has been known as the “City of Oil” since the late 19th century, and the oil industry still plays a significant role in the city’s economy. It’s not hard to see why it earned this name – all around the city there are hundreds and hundreds of colorful oil pumps and fields that dot the landscape. You’ll see them as you travel along the highway or take a stroll through the countryside. The pumps are left unguarded and painted in bright colors, making them an unforgettable sight. Actually it was my first time seeing an oil field, and it was quite shocking to see how small-scale and accessible these little oil pumps looked, almost like everyone could just pop one in their back garden. I always imagined oil extraction as something huge, dangerous and fenced off. Here you can actually just walk up to the structures and snap some photos, which is what I did.

Oil pumps in the outskirts of Baku

One of the best places to witness the scale of the industry is at the Bibi-Heybat Oil Refinery, which is located on the outskirts of Baku. You will have a chance to see this part of town if you decide to visit the nearby Bibi Heybat mosque.

Good to know | If you go on an organized day trip from Baku in any direction, you will be able to see the oil fields. If you want to go it alone, you can combine it with Bibi Heybat mosque – Take a taxi to the mosque, and after visiting, head north on foot towards Baku Higher Oil School Bus Stop. As you walk, you’ll notice numerous oil pumps scattered around on your right everywhere you look.

Oil refinery at the port in Baku, Azerbaijan
Two workers in an oil refinery at the port in Baku, Azerbaijan

3 Visit one of the famous Mosques And Check Out Its Interior

There are 3 outstanding mosques to visit in Baku, the Heydar Mosque, the Bibi-Heybat Mosque and the Taza Pir Mosque. I decided to visit the latter.

The Taza Pir Mosque is located close to the city’s other main attractions, making it easy to visit. Situated on a hilltop, the mosque offers a panoramic view of the surrounding area, which you can enjoy by walking up before or after visiting the old town. Its blend of modern and traditional Islamic architecture styles make it one of the most beautiful mosques in the city. The mosque’s exterior is striking, with intricate details and beautiful carvings on the walls and domes. Inside, the stunning chandeliers, ornate tiling, and intricate carvings make it equally impressive. When I visited, there were barely any people inside or around the mosque. The entrance is located to the side, not directly at the gate where the long pathway leads, so it can be easily missed. The atmosphere inside the mosque is peaceful and serene, making it a great place to pause and reflect.

Good to know | The mosque is open between 4am and 9pm. Dress modestly and remove your shoes before entering.

Taza Pir Mosque from a distance in Baku, Azerbaijan
The dome of Taza Pir Mosque from the inside in Baku, Azerbaijan

4 Stroll Along Baku Promenade And Check Out Mini Venice

The 4km long Baku Promenade is a beautiful spot to take a leisurely walk and enjoy the fresh sea air. It runs along the Caspian Sea and offers stunning views of the waterfront and the city skyline.

There are three things you can check out on the way. The first one is the carpet museum (it’s a huge building shaped like a carpet, hard to miss! :D). The second highlight is Mini Venice, which is a miniature replica of the famous Italian city. Here, you can take a ride on a gondola and explore the canals that wind through the miniature city. It’s not a stunning site in itself, but the promenade is a pleasant place to take a stroll and soak up the atmosphere anyway. And lastly you can do a bit of shopping in the Caspian Waterfront Mall, which is housed in a beautiful modern building and has many famous mid-priced fashion brands (for high-end luxury there are other dedicated malls).

A boat in Mini Venice on the Baku promenade, Azerbaijan
Water in Mini Venice on the Baku promenade, Azerbaijan

I was also curious to see the Caspian sea for the first time. Don’t get too excited though, there is absolutely nothing to see, just (surprisingly green) water. It’s rather the knowledge that you are standing on the shore of a new sea for the first time! There are also several cafes and restaurants along the promenade where you can relax and enjoy the view.

The caspian sea (lake?!)

Well actually it’s not really a sea…which leads me to a very interesting tangent. The geological community in general regards the Caspian as a lake, but most legal experts consider it a sea. So is the Caspian a sea or a lake and why is it so hard to decide? The reason is mostly political (although also historical, given that the Caspian has been called a sea since its discovery and first description in ancient times). Lakes’ surfaces and beds are divided up equally by bordering countries (in this case: Azerbaijan, Iran, Kazakhstan, Russia and Turkmenistan). Seas are governed by the UN’s Law of the Sea – the surface and bed are allotted, nearer to shore, according to the length of relevant coastline. If the Caspian Sea is really a large salty lake (as geologically classified), then the United Nations and international law would have no jurisdiction over its waters, and most importantly what’s in those waters (oil, gas and fish). So you can see that the seemingly silly question – is the Caspian Sea a sea? – is a very significant one.

Good to know | The carpet museum is closed on Mondays (otherwise open 10 am to 6 pm). The entry fee is 15 manat for adult international visitors. Mini Venice is open every day from 10:40 am to 11:30 pm). The entry fee is 3 AZN for adults and free for kids under 5.

People walking at the shore of the Caspian sea on the Baku promenade, Azerbaijan
Traditional musician in a park in Baku, Azerbaijan

5 Hike Up The Highland Park for a great view

The Highland Park is a beautiful park that offers panoramic views of Baku and the Caspian Sea. The park is located on a hill that overlooks the city and is a popular spot for watching the sunset. It is also home to the Eternal Flame Memorial, which is dedicated to the soldiers who died in World War II. There’s a sense of calm and serenity in the park, and it’s a great place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city.

Highland park view on Baku, Azerbaijan

6 Admire The Hypermodern Beauty Of Heydar Aliyev Centre

The Heydar Aliyev Centre is a remarkable example of modern architecture in Baku, and it’s definitely worth a visit to admire its unique design. The building was designed by Zaha Hadid, a world-renowned architect who was known for her cutting-edge and innovative designs. The structure is made of white concrete and appears to be a continuous curve, with no apparent beginning or end. Inside the building, you can explore the various exhibitions and displays that showcase Azerbaijan’s culture and history. The center also hosts a range of events, including concerts, exhibitions, and conferences.

Good to know | Open every day except Monday, from 10 am to 7 pm. The entry fee varies depending on the exhibition or event, but it’s usually around 15 to 20 AZN for adults.

Aliyev Centre building from the outside, Baku
Aliyev Centre building from the inside, Baku

7 Do A Day Trip: Gobustan, Mud Volcanoes, Yanar Dag

All the famous sights around Azerbaijan can fit into a day trip, with 3 main sights to see (plus some add-ons that are pretty underwhelming in my opinion). I recommend to book a tour in advance, this way you have better control over quality and what’s included. But don’t worry, there are many people selling this same package in different variations (half day / full day / with /without lunch etc.) on the street in old town and probably in your hotel or any hotel you walk in, so if you didn’t book in advance, you will get to see all the unmissable attractions 😀

Gobustan

About 65 kms south of Baku lies Gobustan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ancient rock art and mud volcanoes. You can take a day trip from Baku to explore this unique landscape and learn about the area’s history.

The rock carvings in Gobustan, Azerbaijan are considered to be one of the most significant and well-preserved collections of prehistoric art in the world. These petroglyphs were created by ancient inhabitants of the region over thousands of years, dating back to the Upper Paleolithic period. The carvings depict a wide variety of subjects, including animals like wild boar, deer, and gazelle, as well as human figures engaged in hunting, dancing, and other activities.

To be very honest, I couldn’t really believe that these cravings are real(ly ancient), but haven’t found any evidence to the contrary online, so probably they are. It is also a Unesco World Heritage site, so that should be convincing enough. Anyhow, the carvings are surprisingly visible, accessible and comprehensive.

Gobustan ancient rock carving, Azerbaijan

Mud volcanoes

Mud volcanoes are one of Azerbaijan’s unique natural wonders. The largest concentration of mud volcanoes is in Azerbaijan – there are over 400 mud volcanoes in the country, with the majority located in the Gobustan region. These geological features are formed by the release of natural gas and mud from the Earth’s surface. As the pressure builds up, the mixture of mud and gas is forced to the surface, resulting in eruptions of bubbling mud.

The mud volcanoes come in all shapes and sizes, ranging from small mounds to larger hills, with some reaching up to several hundred meters in height. They are also known for their varied colors, from white and gray to yellow, red, and even black. Some mud volcanoes are active, while others are dormant. It’s a unique experience to see the bubbling mud and feel the heat and sulfuric smell emanating from the vents. Some mud volcanoes even spew flames and can be quite a sight to behold, while others are cold enough that you can stick your hand in them.

Good to know | A day trip usually costs around 30 AZN, but you have to buy some of the entry tickets on top. Ask the tour company what the trip includes. The entrance fee to Gobustan is 10 AZN for adults and 1 AZN for students.

Mud volcano up close, Azerbaijan
Mud volcano from afar, Azerbaijan

Yanar Dag (Fire mountain)

The third attraction is Yanar Dağ, also known as “Fire Mountain.” Well, don’t imagine a mountain, there aren’t any here (for that you’d have to go to the northern part of the country). Maybe it could more accurately be called “Burning Hole”. It is basically a pit filled with natural gas fire which blazes continuously on a hillside (and has been observed since the 13th century. When I heard about Yanar Dağ, I envisioned something like the “Gates of Hell”, the Darvaza gas crater in Turkmenistan. If you keep your expectations in check, you will probably be less (or not at all) disappointed.

Burning natural gas at Yanar Dag, Azerbaijan

8 Learn about the history of zoroastrianism at Ateshgah Fire Temple

Ateshgah Fire Temple, also known as the Baku Atashgah, is a unique historical and cultural monument located in Surakhani, a suburb of Baku, Azerbaijan. It was originally built during the 17th-18th centuries as a Hindu, Sikh, and Zoroastrian place of worship. The temple was constructed on top of a natural gas vent, which fueled the fire temple. The temple’s architecture is a mix of Indian and Azerbaijani styles. The central building is a quadrangular pavilion with a domed roof, and there are four small cells at the corners. The main attraction of the temple is the burning flame that has been burning for centuries. The flame was believed to be sacred and was worshiped by Zoroastrians.

Good to know | The temple is open daily from 10 am to 5 pm except on Mondays. Visitors are advised to dress modestly when visiting the temple, and it is recommended to wear clothes that cover the shoulders and knees. For foreign visitors, the entrance fee is around 20 AZN

Atesgah Fire Temple, Azerbaijan
Eternal flame, Baku, Azerbaijan

9 Admire the Flame Towers, from up close or afar

The Flame Towers are a modern landmark of Baku. These towering skyscrapers are covered in LED screens that display a flickering flame effect at night, making for a truly stunning sight.

Flame towers in Baku at sunset
Woman with a camera smiling with the Flame towers in Baku in the background

10 Try Azerbaijani cuisine

Azerbaijan is famous for its delicious cuisine, which is a blend of Turkish, Persian, and Russian influences, reflecting the country’s location at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Here are some interesting dishes to try while you’re here:

  • Plov: A traditional Azerbaijani rice pilaf, usually made with lamb, chicken or beef, and flavored with saffron.
  • Shah Plov: An interesting variant of plov, ‘Khan ashi‘, or shah plov, consists of a hearty rice base, topped with meat and finished with a crust of fried dough. It is made of flaky lavash, in which the plov is cooked. Since the dish can remain warm for up to several hours after cooking, it is perfect for weddings, parties, and other special occasions.
  • Qutab: Flatbread filled with herbs, meat, or cheese, usually served with yogurt. (My personal favorite, especially the herb one filled with parsley and dill. Yum!)
  • Dushbara: Small dumplings filled with minced lamb and served in a meat broth with sour cream.
  • Dolma: Grape leaves stuffed with a mixture of ground meat, rice, and herbs.
  • Kebab: Grilled skewers of meat, usually lamb or beef, that are seasoned with various spices and herbs.
  • Lavangi: Chicken or fish wrapped in grape leaves and baked with walnuts, onions, and pomegranate seeds.
  • Kutum: A Caspian Sea fish that is typically grilled or baked and served with a side of pomegranate sauce.
  • Mangal Salaty (vegetable salad): People in Azerbaijan love salad, which is a huge plus! They serve a variety of fresh vegetable salads with kebabs and other meat dishes. There are a wide range of salads, including peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, red onions, pomegranate seeds, herbs, sunflower or olive oil, and garlic, among others.
  • Sheki halva: A traditional Azerbaijani sweet made from ground sesame seeds, sugar, and nuts.
  • Pakhlava: A pastry filled with chopped nuts, sugar, and honey syrup.
Azerbaijani food on a table

How to get there

By Air

The primary gateway to Baku, Azerbaijan, is the Heydar Aliyev International Airport (GYD), located about 25 kilometers east of the city center. This modern airport serves as a hub for several international airlines, with direct flights from major cities in Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. Most of these flights are expensive, usually over 250€. If you want to travel here on a deal, you can fly directly with Wizz Air, a low-cost airline from Budapest, Rome and Abu Dhabi for much cheaper (my return ticket from Budapest was 60€!).

By Train

For those traveling within the region, Baku is connected by rail to several neighboring countries. The trains offer a scenic, albeit slower, alternative to flying. There are regular services from cities like Tbilisi in Georgia and Moscow in Russia.

By Road

Baku can also be reached by long-distance buses from various cities in the region. The road network is fairly developed, and the journey offers a unique way to see the countryside.

By Sea

Baku’s location on the Caspian Sea allows for sea travel, primarily from ports in Kazakhstan, Russia, and Iran. However, these services are less frequent, depend heavily on weather conditions and are rarely used for touristic reasons.

How much time you need

The ideal duration for a visit to Baku is a long weekend (3 to 4 days), which is generally sufficient to explore the city’s main attractions and go on a day trip. If you’re interested in a more relaxed pace or want to explore beyond Baku, consider extending your stay to a week. This additional time lets you venture to Sheki and the mountains, or even to leisurely continue your trip of the region to Georgia.

How to get around

Public Transport

Baku has a well-developed public transportation system, including buses and a metro system. The metro is a convenient and cost-effective and safe way to travel around the city, with stations close to many major attractions.

Walking

Many of Baku’s key attractions, particularly in the Old City, are best explored on foot. The city’s boulevard along the Caspian Sea is also a beautiful place for a leisurely walk.

Taxis

Taxis are widely available and relatively inexpensive in Baku. There is Uber available, but with fewer cars than the popular local competitor Yango (I was using a combination of both during my visit). If you use official taxis instead of apps, always agree on an approximate price before.

Car Rental

Renting a car is a great option if you want to go beyond Baku. But inside the city I really don’t recommend it, the local driving style is crazy and very dangerous for someone not used to it. 

Baku airport scene
Old Lada car parked in front of a residential building in Baku, Azerbaijan
Azerbaijani car license plate